On Tue, 4 May 2021 21:06:15 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 04/05/2021 11:34, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 4 May 2021 10:13:19 +0100, "NY" wrote:

snip

I've snapped two pruning saws when the blades got seized in branches on
the
push stroke.

Were they 'good' ones? (Silky etc)

I think one of them was a cheap one,

I would expect a cheap one to blunt quickly and bend rather than snap
as they generally use a lower grade steel.

The ones I have had from Lidl and other places have been made from
hardened carbon steel

Maybe that's still cheap to source in India / China. ;-)

which stay sharp but can crack if abused. They cut
on the push and pull stroke but it is best to put most force into the
pull, to reduce bending.

Check.

I've had well-used ones break (perhaps from fatigue cracks) before they
have lost their sharpness significantly.

Maybe they have gone the other way then, making them too hard or
hardening them throughout, rather than case hardening them?

Cheers, T i m

On 04/05/2021 21:16, newshound wrote:
The first choice electric one seems to be cutting square to the chain,
which is wrong.


It could well be wrong but chains sharpened for ripping can be square.

On 04/05/2021 17:16, John Rumm wrote:
pull the chain along (with gloves)

Or push it with the file holder. As you imply never pull a sharp tooth
backwards with fingers.

On 04/05/2021 22:48, AJH wrote:
On 04/05/2021 17:16, John Rumm wrote:
pull the chain along (with gloves)

Or push it with the file holder. As you imply never pull a sharp tooth
backwards with fingers.

If you pull on the top of the bar toward the nose, then the cutting edge
is facing you and not pulling against your hands.



--
Cheers,

John.

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On 04/05/2021 19:36, NY wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
It never occurred to me that it *might* be possible to sharpen the
blades on a chainsaw chain in situ, because of the problem of
rotating the chain slow enough to do each tooth in turn. I suppose if
you mark the teeth that are exposed and that you have sharpened, you
can run the chainsaw and stop it - and hope that sooner or later it
will stop with different teeth exposed.

?? you can move the chain without using the motor.

Maybe it's different with an electric (battery) chainsaw, which mine is.
If I grabbed hold of the teeth to pull the chain round, I think I'd rip
holes in my fingers before the chain moved at all. I wonder whether
there is a reduction gear between the motor and the chain sprocket which
makes it very difficult to drive it "in reverse" by pulling on the chain.

When the chain has got embedded in the wood (which happens
occasionally), it takes a lot of effort to pull the blade back to unwind
the chain from the notch that it's cut so far, to free the teeth. So
there's definitely not a freewheel action.

Ah. petrol saws have a centrifugal slippy clutch. So the motor never
stalls, and the blade stops on tickover.



--
€œThose who can make you believe absurdities, can make you commit
atrocities.€�

€• Voltaire, Questions sur les Miracles Ã* M. Claparede, Professeur de
Théologie Ã* Genève, par un Proposant: Ou Extrait de Diverses Lettres de
M. de Voltaire

On 04/05/2021 21:10, newshound wrote:
Mark the first tooth sharpened with a permanent marker. I usually grip
the handle in a workmate so that the bar is presented at a convenient
height.

No need. On both my saws the chain has an odd number of teeth, so at one
point there are two teeth pointing in 'the same direction'

I start and end there



--
Those who want slavery should have the grace to name it by its proper
name. They must face the full meaning of that which they are advocating
or condoning; the full, exact, specific meaning of collectivism, of its
logical implications, of the principles upon which it is based, and of
the ultimate consequences to which these principles will lead. They must
face it, then decide whether this is what they want or not.

Ayn Rand.

On 04/05/2021 21:29, Andy Burns wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

So far I've gone the three chains for £24 route, and only managed to
dull one.

I find that you need to sharpen about every hour, and it takes about
ten minutes, and the file lasts about a chainsaw week at best.

Electric sharpeners mean you have to take the sodding chain off and
that takes even longer...

The dremel one looks like you can sharpen while leaving the chain on,
but swapping chains is tool-less and quick on mine, so resharpening at
home in downtime might be better ...

I do chainsawing for about 3-4 hours at a time - and I need to sharpen
several times in that period. And usually retension the chain at least
once too.

Then I need a few days to recover...

I didn't regard myself as an especially heavy user of chainsaws, but I
am beginning to wonder ...

--
Those who want slavery should have the grace to name it by its proper
name. They must face the full meaning of that which they are advocating
or condoning; the full, exact, specific meaning of collectivism, of its
logical implications, of the principles upon which it is based, and of
the ultimate consequences to which these principles will lead. They must
face it, then decide whether this is what they want or not.

Ayn Rand.

On 04/05/2021 22:43, AJH wrote:
On 04/05/2021 21:16, newshound wrote:
The first choice electric one seems to be cutting square to the chain,
which is wrong.


It could well be wrong but chains sharpened for ripping can be square.

who uses a chainsaw to only rip?


--
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice.
In practice, there is.
-- Yogi Berra

On 04/05/2021 22:48, AJH wrote:
On 04/05/2021 17:16, John Rumm wrote:
pull the chain along (with gloves)

Or push it with the file holder. As you imply never pull a sharp tooth
backwards with fingers.
seriosly no problem on a petrol saw. the chain moves quite freely


--
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice.
In practice, there is.
-- Yogi Berra

On 05/05/2021 09:05, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/05/2021 22:43, AJH wrote:
On 04/05/2021 21:16, newshound wrote:
The first choice electric one seems to be cutting square to the
chain, which is wrong.


It could well be wrong but chains sharpened for ripping can be square.

who uses a chainsaw to only rip?




Quite a few people run saws as miniature mills, sometimes with two saw
heads. They tend to specialise in "character" timbers which would
otherwise be uneconomic to extract and sell

https://youtu.be/WNcTLMPd6ao

It amuses me because they value the defects all the big mills I used to
supply would reject.

There is an upsurge in small scale milling, often with
lightweight,portable bandsaws and dimension saws with the likes of
Lucas, Woodmiser Woodlands mills simply because most of the home grown
sawmills have stopped trading since GATT made the economics bad and
their "previously developed" sites became attractive for housing.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/05/2021 21:29, Andy Burns wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

So far I've gone the three chains for £24 route, and only managed to
dull one.

I find that you need to sharpen about every hour, and it takes about
ten minutes, and the file lasts about a chainsaw week at best.

Electric sharpeners mean you have to take the sodding chain off and
that takes even longer...

The dremel one looks like you can sharpen while leaving the chain on,
but swapping chains is tool-less and quick on mine, so resharpening at
home in downtime might be better ...

I do chainsawing for about 3-4 hours at a time - and I need to sharpen
several times in that period. And usually retension the chain at least
once too.

Really!? What are you cutting? I've never needed to sharpen anything
like that frequently even when doing some fairly serious felling and
clearing that took several hours.

Are you allowing dirt and grit anywhere near, that blunts chains very
quickly.

--
Chris Green
·

On 05/05/2021 09:22, AJH wrote:
On 05/05/2021 09:05, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/05/2021 22:43, AJH wrote:
On 04/05/2021 21:16, newshound wrote:
The first choice electric one seems to be cutting square to the
chain, which is wrong.


It could well be wrong but chains sharpened for ripping can be square.

who uses a chainsaw to only rip?




Quite a few people run saws as miniature mills, sometimes with two saw
heads. They tend to specialise inÂ* "character" timbers which would
otherwise be uneconomic to extract and sell

https://youtu.be/WNcTLMPd6ao

It amuses meÂ* because they value the defects all the big mills I used to
supply would reject.

Yebbut that's not really relevant to the sort of work we here are
putting our saws too - oversized pruning in the garden!

I thought that band saws were the rip tools of choice...

There is an upsurge in small scale milling, often with
lightweight,portable bandsaws and dimension saws with the likes of
Lucas, Woodmiser Woodlands mills simply because most of the home grown
sawmills have stopped trading since GATT made the economics bad and
their "previously developed" sites became attractive for housing.

I don't really see why Gatt should have impacted UK sawmills..,dealing
in UK timber.

But certainly the ability to take e.g. a Woodmiser to clear up old
timber and turn it into seasonable planks rather than firewood, changes
things.

I was looking at te wood quality of the maple I just sectioned and
thinking how many guitar necks it would have made.



--
The theory of Communism may be summed up in one sentence: Abolish all
private property.

Karl Marx

In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
On 04/05/2021 22:43, AJH wrote:
On 04/05/2021 21:16, newshound wrote:
The first choice electric one seems to be cutting square to the
chain, which is wrong.
It could well be wrong but chains sharpened for ripping can be
square.

who uses a chainsaw to only rip?

AJH? He once very kindly *ripped* some Oak into scantling for me.

I'd had some fallen Oak cut up with a portable Lucas mill. This can be
set up in the field around the trunk but is unable to deal with the slab
in contact with the ground.

My collection of slabs were very quickly converted!

I suppose you could keep a spare chain sharpened this way.



--
Tim Lamb

On Mon, 3 May 2021 18:30:16 +0100, williamwright
wrote:

On 03/05/2021 14:34, Andrew wrote:

I use a manual emission-free chain saw. Good exercise.


https://www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-erg...24-610mm/5313k

I'd worked myself nearly to death by the time I was 62. I don't want to
finish the job on anything so futile as doing the work of a machine.

But you still need to exercise and you either do that futiley g by
walking nowhere and back (as we often to for the dog), doing similar
in a gym [1] or allow some jobs to keep you fit.

I manually split (with a manual hydraulic splitter, rather than a
powered one) a few one tonne bags worth of ash, mostly for that
reason.

If you are doing something *just* to keep fit, that's the only
incentive. If you have a stack of timber that *needs* splitting then
you plod on though it till it's done. You are retired so there is no
rush.

In the old days even just 'living' needed quite a bit of manual
effort, manual jobs, few home appliances, not everone could afford
mechanised transport so would walk or cycle and you even had to get up
and press a button to turn over the channel on your TV. ;-)

Now you don't even have to press a button on a remote to turn your
lights on or order some shopping to be delivered straight to your
freezer the next day.

I've seen suggestion of making jobs like vacuuming into more of an
exercise than it is by maybe stretching rather than stepping or by
leaving the bag of shopping on the floor and lifting each thing into
the cupboards, one_at_a_time.

Cheers, T i m

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifteen_Million_Merits

On Mon, 3 May 2021 16:53:05 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

"Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)" wrote:
What is the pollution like, I see a lot of power tools that seem to push out
foul smelling blue smoke all the time on strimmers hedge cutters and the
like. Brian

Older. probably, and 2-stroke which necessarily burn some oil and
produce blue smoke. Another reason why I like my 4-stroke Ryobi.

I think that not seeing or smelling any 'exhaust' doesn't help us
remember we are still producing pollution.

The same reason we (had to) deal with the London smogs, are now
dealing with 'other' pollution in the same place (and similarly around
the world) and make domestic gas smells so we are reminded it's there.

It's the same thing with electric machines of course, assuming they
aren't only using generation techniques that don't (directly) burn
fossil fuels, it's just that the pollution is even further out of
sight (and so further out of mind).

It's like when we 'throw something away', where is that exactly and of
course 'most people' don't care as long as they don't have it any
more. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 04/05/2021 22:01, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 4 May 2021 21:06:15 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 04/05/2021 11:34, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 4 May 2021 10:13:19 +0100, "NY" wrote:

snip

I've snapped two pruning saws when the blades got seized in branches on
the
push stroke.

Were they 'good' ones? (Silky etc)

I think one of them was a cheap one,

I would expect a cheap one to blunt quickly and bend rather than snap
as they generally use a lower grade steel.

The ones I have had from Lidl and other places have been made from
hardened carbon steel

Maybe that's still cheap to source in India / China. ;-)

which stay sharp but can crack if abused. They cut
on the push and pull stroke but it is best to put most force into the
pull, to reduce bending.

Check.

I've had well-used ones break (perhaps from fatigue cracks) before they
have lost their sharpness significantly.

Maybe they have gone the other way then, making them too hard or
hardening them throughout, rather than case hardening them?

Cheers, T i m

They won't be case-hardened: inappropriate for mass produced and "thin"
components like this. They may be through hardened or, perhaps more
likely, have the teeth induction hardened. That will, potentially, leave
the tooth side harder and more prone to cracking than the back.

I'm sure they come from China, India, or Korea or some other low labour
cost region. Low quality carbon steel is not significantly more
expensive to produce than mild steel.

On 05/05/2021 14:03, T i m wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 18:30:16 +0100, williamwright
wrote:

On 03/05/2021 14:34, Andrew wrote:

I use a manual emission-free chain saw. Good exercise.


https://www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-erg...24-610mm/5313k

I'd worked myself nearly to death by the time I was 62. I don't want to
finish the job on anything so futile as doing the work of a machine.

But you still need to exercise and you either do that futiley g by
walking nowhere and back (as we often to for the dog), doing similar
in a gym [1] or allow some jobs to keep you fit.

Agreed but the bow saw is hard exercise for a very limited set of
muscles. The benefit will come from the moving and stacking, not the
cutting.

On 05/05/2021 09:01, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/05/2021 21:10, newshound wrote:
Mark the first tooth sharpened with a permanent marker. I usually grip
the handle in a workmate so that the bar is presented at a convenient
height.

No need. On both my saws the chain has an odd number of teeth, so at one
point there are two teeth pointing in 'the same direction'

I start and end there



Interesting, I didn't think that was the case for either of mine, but I
will check!

On Wed, 5 May 2021 14:33:26 +0100, newshound
wrote:

snip

Maybe they have gone the other way then, making them too hard or
hardening them throughout, rather than case hardening them?


They won't be case-hardened: inappropriate for mass produced and "thin"
components like this.

Ok.

They may be through hardened or, perhaps more
likely, have the teeth induction hardened. That will, potentially, leave
the tooth side harder and more prone to cracking than the back.

Ah, so I was closer on that then. ;-)

I'm sure they come from China, India, or Korea or some other low labour
cost region.

Not much in the way of cheap tools doesn't these days. ;-(

Low quality carbon steel is not significantly more
expensive to produce than mild steel.

Ok.

Cheers, T i m

On 05/05/2021 09:01, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
No need. On both my saws the chain has an odd number of teeth, so at one
point there are two teeth pointing in 'the same direction'

I start and end there

In any case you can usually see which ones you've sharpened. I never
mark them.

Bill

On 05/05/2021 14:38, newshound wrote:
Interesting, I didn't think that was the case for either of mine, but I
will check!

I've noticed it with mine.

Bill

On 05/05/2021 09:00, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Ah. petrol saws have a centrifugal slippy clutch. So the motor never
stalls, and the blade stops on tickover.

Like a little Honda motorbike.

Bill

On Wed, 5 May 2021 14:37:00 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 05/05/2021 14:03, T i m wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 18:30:16 +0100, williamwright
wrote:

On 03/05/2021 14:34, Andrew wrote:

I use a manual emission-free chain saw. Good exercise.


https://www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-erg...24-610mm/5313k

I'd worked myself nearly to death by the time I was 62. I don't want to
finish the job on anything so futile as doing the work of a machine.

But you still need to exercise and you either do that futiley g by
walking nowhere and back (as we often to for the dog), doing similar
in a gym [1] or allow some jobs to keep you fit.

Agreed but the bow saw is hard exercise for a very limited set of
muscles.

But only as hard as you want to make it? I mean with the right pitched
and set blade in the right length saw with the job at the right height
it can be quite 'light' work? [1]

The benefit will come from the moving and stacking, not the
cutting.

Well, it *will* also come from the cutting (see above and a bit of
light aerobic work, as long as you don't overdo it g) and I think it
would be a good plan to not spend any prolonged time on any one thing
(however inefficient that might sound).

Cut a chog off, split it, stack it etc. With a chainsaw you might be
inclined to cut a heap of chogs, then split / stack them all?

Cheers, T i m

[1] I agree that you can 'just' exercise some muscles, eg, by walking
or cycling and that's why I also like rowing. And even when I was
rowing fairly regularly, drawing my recurve (archery) bow seemed to
use yet another set of muscles (I was reminded the next day ...). ;-)

On 05/05/2021 14:28, T i m wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 16:53:05 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

"Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)" wrote:
What is the pollution like, I see a lot of power tools that seem to push out
foul smelling blue smoke all the time on strimmers hedge cutters and the
like. Brian

Older. probably, and 2-stroke which necessarily burn some oil and
produce blue smoke. Another reason why I like my 4-stroke Ryobi.

I think that not seeing or smelling any 'exhaust' doesn't help us
remember we are still producing pollution.

It does help us when we can come in from the garden not stinking of
petrol exhaust fumes!


--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

On 05/05/2021 09:04, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/05/2021 21:29, Andy Burns wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

So far I've gone the three chains for £24 route, and only managed to
dull one.

I find that you need to sharpen about every hour, and it takes about
ten minutes, and the file lasts about a chainsaw week at best.

Electric sharpeners mean you have to take the sodding chain off and
that takes even longer...

The dremel one looks like you can sharpen while leaving the chain on,
but swapping chains is tool-less and quick on mine, so resharpening at
home in downtime might be better ...

I do chainsawing for about 3-4 hours at a time - andÂ* I need to sharpen
several times in that period. And usually retension the chain at least
once too.

3-4 hours of intensive use is actually fairly hard going IME!

Then I need a few days to recover...

Yup, I have often "injured" myself with a chainsaw - not in any
spectacularly messy way, but typically some kind of stress injury (stiff
neck, tennis elbow, aching shoulder etc) resulting from holding the
thing in an awkward pose for too long.

I didn't regard myself as an especially heavy user of chainsaws, but I
am beginning to wonder ...


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 05/05/2021 09:32, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 05/05/2021 09:22, AJH wrote:
On 05/05/2021 09:05, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/05/2021 22:43, AJH wrote:
On 04/05/2021 21:16, newshound wrote:
The first choice electric one seems to be cutting square to the
chain, which is wrong.


It could well be wrong but chains sharpened for ripping can be square.

who uses a chainsaw to only rip?




Quite a few people run saws as miniature mills, sometimes with two saw
heads. They tend to specialise inÂ* "character" timbers which would
otherwise be uneconomic to extract and sell

https://youtu.be/WNcTLMPd6ao

It amuses meÂ* because they value the defects all the big mills I used
to supply would reject.

Yebbut that's not really relevant to the sort of work we here are
putting our saws too - oversized pruning in the garden!

I thought that band saws were the rip tools of choice...

Yup, or big FO circular saws. But chainsaws have the advantage of only
needing some kind of straight edge (e.g. a section of ali ladder) and a
carriage of some sort to mill timber, whereas a bandsaw mill is a fairly
elaborate bit of it. So you can mill stuff for an investment of 100's
with a chainsaw rather than many 1000's on a proper mill.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wed, 5 May 2021 17:09:06 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 05/05/2021 14:28, T i m wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 16:53:05 +0100, Chris Green wrote:

"Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)" wrote:
What is the pollution like, I see a lot of power tools that seem to push out
foul smelling blue smoke all the time on strimmers hedge cutters and the
like. Brian

Older. probably, and 2-stroke which necessarily burn some oil and
produce blue smoke. Another reason why I like my 4-stroke Ryobi.

I think that not seeing or smelling any 'exhaust' doesn't help us
remember we are still producing pollution.

It does help us when we can come in from the garden not stinking of
petrol exhaust fumes!

It does help you forget, yes. ;-)

It used to be similar when non-smokers had been to a smokers place and
then came here and it was to me like they had been smoking themselves
(the level of smell on their clothes). ;-(

The only person who ever smoked in here was the Ex wife's Dad, who was
one of those 'Oh, you will never stop him ...' type. [1] I didn't
need (or particularly want) to, I just banned him from here, with
support from my Mrs. ;-)

I don't seem to smell straight tobacco when out and about much these
days, just weed (which is far more aromatic). ;-)


Cheers, T i m

[1] Similar to 'Fred', smoking at monthly bike meet held in the back
room of a restaurant / bar on the strict understanding that it was a
no smoking *venue*. It seems the regulars were so used to 'Fred'
risking the event for everyone they had 'forgotten' to keep chucking
him out.

The first time we left the organisers contacted us and after
apologising profusely (it *was* a no-smoking event and they *should*
have been policing it on behalf of all those who were respecting the
rules), asked us to give them a second chance. We did, same thing
happened so never again.

On 03/05/2021 07:42, williamwright wrote:
Yesterday I went to my daughter's with a load of wood. I was rewarded
with a very nice cottage pie (large portion), then, since it wasn't
raining Matt and I decided to do the right thing and cut the wood up
rather than just pile it in a corner and forget about it. Matt thought
we ought to use my chainsaw to save wearing his out (typical), so we
did. Unfortunately my chainsaw (Bosch 1750W) suddenly stopped working.
All it did was emit a loud buzz and some magic smoke. Not to worry; I've
had it for at least twenty years and it had done a lot of work, and the
oiler didn't work and the chain tensioner only just worked. (Later I
dismantled it out of curiosity and found that the front motor bearing
had seized absolutely solid. But surprisingly the gear wheels showed
very little wear and the motor brushes were still quite good.)
I don't know whether to get a petrol or electric chain saw. If electric
a constraint is that I want it to work from the genny, which is 2kW. The
bigger chainsaws are 2.5kW.

Bill


If you are after new - take a look at Ego cordless ... with massive 56V
power packs they offer a lot of cutting time
https://egopowerplus.co.uk/products/chainsaws

rick wrote:
On 03/05/2021 07:42, williamwright wrote:
Yesterday I went to my daughter's with a load of wood. I was rewarded
with a very nice cottage pie (large portion), then, since it wasn't
raining Matt and I decided to do the right thing and cut the wood up
rather than just pile it in a corner and forget about it. Matt thought
we ought to use my chainsaw to save wearing his out (typical), so we
did. Unfortunately my chainsaw (Bosch 1750W) suddenly stopped working.
All it did was emit a loud buzz and some magic smoke. Not to worry;
I've had it for at least twenty years and it had done a lot of work,
and the oiler didn't work and the chain tensioner only just worked.
(Later I dismantled it out of curiosity and found that the front motor
bearing had seized absolutely solid. But surprisingly the gear wheels
showed very little wear and the motor brushes were still quite good.)
I don't know whether to get a petrol or electric chain saw. If
electric a constraint is that I want it to work from the genny, which
is 2kW. The bigger chainsaws are 2.5kW.

Bill


If you are after new - take a look at Ego cordless ... with massive 56V
power packs they offer a lot of cutting time
https://egopowerplus.co.uk/products/chainsaws


This is how they get their snowblower battery pack, onto the chainsaw.
Via belt you wear, and a cord. That's the 7.5Ah pack. Those packs
cost as much or more than a chainsaw. Even the charger for the 7.5Ah
pack is expensive (maybe 1/3rd the price of the battery pack).

https://egopowerplus.co.uk/sites/def...ll%201-min.jpg

There's an example of the pack here. Cells exposed at 2:34.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hY0HALIDfnw

Paul

On 06/05/2021 13:19, Paul wrote:

If you are after new - take a look at Ego cordless ... with massive
56V power packs they offer a lot of cutting time
https://egopowerplus.co.uk/products/chainsaws


This is how they get their snowblower battery pack, onto the chainsaw.
Via belt you wear, and a cord. That's the 7.5Ah pack. Those packs
cost as much or more than a chainsaw. Even the charger for the 7.5Ah
pack is expensive (maybe 1/3rd the price of the battery pack).

https://egopowerplus.co.uk/sites/def...ll%201-min.jpg


There's an example of the pack here. Cells exposed at 2:34.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hY0HALIDfnw

Â*Â* Paul


Yep .. I have 2 of the 56V 5Ah packs ... they aren't cheap but use
across a number of tools so common battery & charger