On the balancing valve on a radiator it is weeping ever so slightly from
the 15mm compression nut.
The house was recently rented and I noticed pipe pulled away form the
pipe clips, sop it looks like it had been disturbed.
Reseated pipe, undid the compression fitting nut and refitted.

Over night it is still weeping ..... such a tiny amount iut can't be
seen, but I had put down dry cloth and it is damp.

Tried putting 1/4 turn extra on compression fitting ......... if this
does not fix it ..... seen 2 'tweaks' done by plumbers.

1. remove pipe, wrap 2 turns of PTFE tape around the olive and refit.,
probably would put PTFE tapes around the compression threads as well

2. remove pipe, and smear olives and olive seat with Fernox LS-X joint
sealer.

Thoughts on either approach ?

I know ideally I should cut out the pipe, (its a 90 degree slow bend to
horizontal pipe under the rad) bend a new piece, and then solder that
in place.
Just a lot of work I'd rather not do now.

rick wrote:

seen 2 'tweaks' done by plumbers.

1. remove pipe, wrap 2 turns of PTFE tape around the olive and refit.,
probably would put PTFE tapes around the compression threads as well

2. remove pipe, and smear olives and olive seat with Fernox LS-X joint
sealer.

Thoughts on either approach ?

2. has worked for me.


Though, it has to be said that

3. wind a rag around the valve to stop the dribble running down the
pipe, intend to look at it later, come back several weeks later and the
leak had "crusted up" and sealed itself ...

Andy Burns wrote:

2.Â* has worked for me.

should have added, where 1. didn't.

On 17/04/2021 10:59, rick wrote:
On the balancing valve on a radiator it is weeping ever so slightly from
the 15mm compression nut.
The house was recently rented and I noticed pipe pulled away form the
pipe clips, sop it looks like it had been disturbed.
Reseated pipe, undid the compression fitting nut and refitted.

Over night it is still weeping ..... such a tiny amount iut can't be
seen, but I had put down dry cloth and it is damp.

Tried putting 1/4 turn extra on compression fitting ......... if this
does not fix it ..... seen 2 'tweaks' done by plumbers.

1. remove pipe, wrap 2 turns of PTFE tape around the olive and refit.,
probably would put PTFE tapes around the compression threads as well

2. remove pipe, and smear olives and olive seat with Fernox LS-X joint
sealer.

Thoughts on either approach ?

I know ideally I should cut out the pipe, (its a 90 degree slow bend to
horizontal pipe under the rad)Â*Â* bend a new piece, and then solder that
in place.
Just a lot of work I'd rather not do now.

Put a smear of jointing compound (I'm not a fan of anything called "leak
sealer") on the mating faces - pretty much guaranteed to work.

On 17/04/2021 13:03, wrote:
On 17/04/2021 10:59, rick wrote:
On the balancing valve on a radiator it is weeping ever so slightly
from the 15mm compression nut.
The house was recently rented and I noticed pipe pulled away form the
pipe clips, sop it looks like it had been disturbed.
Reseated pipe, undid the compression fitting nut and refitted.

Over night it is still weeping ..... such a tiny amount iut can't be
seen, but I had put down dry cloth and it is damp.

Tried putting 1/4 turn extra on compression fitting ......... if this
does not fix it ..... seen 2 'tweaks' done by plumbers.

1. remove pipe, wrap 2 turns of PTFE tape around the olive and refit.,
probably would put PTFE tapes around the compression threads as well

2. remove pipe, and smear olives and olive seat with Fernox LS-X joint
sealer.

Thoughts on either approach ?

I know ideally I should cut out the pipe, (its a 90 degree slow bend
to horizontal pipe under the rad)Â*Â* bend a new piece, and then solder
that in place.
Just a lot of work I'd rather not do now.

Put a smear of jointing compound (I'm not a fan of anything called "leak
sealer") on the mating faces - pretty much guaranteed to work.


LS-X is a jointing compound to seal against leaks, its not a pout-in
sealer - I agree on not using them.

On 17/04/2021 10:59, rick wrote:
On the balancing valve on a radiator it is weeping ever so slightly from
the 15mm compression nut.
The house was recently rented and I noticed pipe pulled away form the
pipe clips, sop it looks like it had been disturbed.
Reseated pipe, undid the compression fitting nut and refitted.

Over night it is still weeping ..... such a tiny amount iut can't be
seen, but I had put down dry cloth and it is damp.

Tried putting 1/4 turn extra on compression fitting ......... if this
does not fix it ..... seen 2 'tweaks' done by plumbers.

1. remove pipe, wrap 2 turns of PTFE tape around the olive and refit.,
probably would put PTFE tapes around the compression threads as well

2. remove pipe, and smear olives and olive seat with Fernox LS-X joint
sealer.

Thoughts on either approach ?

I know ideally I should cut out the pipe, (its a 90 degree slow bend to
horizontal pipe under the rad)Â*Â* bend a new piece, and then solder that
in place.
Just a lot of work I'd rather not do now.

I'm with Andy, having given it a tweak, give it a chance to seal itself
before going to the trouble of draining it. If this does not work, you
*might* get away with backing the nut right off *without* disturbing the
pipe and olive, and putting a generous smear of sealant (boss white or
Flomasta) over the male threads and exposed side of the olive before
tightening it up again.

newshound wrote:
On 17/04/2021 10:59, rick wrote:
On the balancing valve on a radiator it is weeping ever so slightly from
the 15mm compression nut.
The house was recently rented and I noticed pipe pulled away form the
pipe clips, sop it looks like it had been disturbed.
Reseated pipe, undid the compression fitting nut and refitted.

Over night it is still weeping ..... such a tiny amount iut can't be
seen, but I had put down dry cloth and it is damp.

Tried putting 1/4 turn extra on compression fitting ......... if this
does not fix it ..... seen 2 'tweaks' done by plumbers.

1. remove pipe, wrap 2 turns of PTFE tape around the olive and refit.,
probably would put PTFE tapes around the compression threads as well

2. remove pipe, and smear olives and olive seat with Fernox LS-X joint
sealer.

Thoughts on either approach ?

I know ideally I should cut out the pipe, (its a 90 degree slow bend to
horizontal pipe under the rad)Â*Â* bend a new piece, and then solder that
in place.
Just a lot of work I'd rather not do now.

I'm with Andy, having given it a tweak, give it a chance to seal itself
before going to the trouble of draining it. If this does not work, you
*might* get away with backing the nut right off *without* disturbing the
pipe and olive, and putting a generous smear of sealant (boss white or
Flomasta) over the male threads and exposed side of the olive before
tightening it up again.


Failing that, try adding a litre of some €œleak fixing gloop€� made by
Sentinel. Ours had been losing pressure for years and I really didnt
expect it to work but it seems like it has.

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Sentinel-Ce...---1L/p/227642

Tim



--
Please don't feed the trolls

Sounds like your tenants had an issue with it and tried and failed to fix it
to me.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"rick" wrote in message
...
On the balancing valve on a radiator it is weeping ever so slightly from
the 15mm compression nut.
The house was recently rented and I noticed pipe pulled away form the pipe
clips, sop it looks like it had been disturbed.
Reseated pipe, undid the compression fitting nut and refitted.

Over night it is still weeping ..... such a tiny amount iut can't be seen,
but I had put down dry cloth and it is damp.

Tried putting 1/4 turn extra on compression fitting ......... if this does
not fix it ..... seen 2 'tweaks' done by plumbers.

1. remove pipe, wrap 2 turns of PTFE tape around the olive and refit.,
probably would put PTFE tapes around the compression threads as well

2. remove pipe, and smear olives and olive seat with Fernox LS-X joint
sealer.

Thoughts on either approach ?

I know ideally I should cut out the pipe, (its a 90 degree slow bend to
horizontal pipe under the rad) bend a new piece, and then solder that in
place.
Just a lot of work I'd rather not do now.