Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is
a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under
a gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect
if we go ahead and put it out to a professional.

--
Frank

On 06/11/2020 21:07:16, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is
a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a
gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect
if we go ahead and put it out to a professional.

If going the professional route it might be cost effective to consider a
solar panel LED light solution?

On 06/11/2020 21:11, Fredxx wrote:
On 06/11/2020 21:07:16, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is
a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a
gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect
if we go ahead and put it out to a professional.

If going the professional route it might be cost effective to consider a
solar panel LED light solution?

I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help?

--
Frank

On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote:

solar panel LED light solution?

I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help?


That's very bright.

Bill

On 06/11/2020 23:52, williamwright wrote:
On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote:

solar panel LED light solution?

I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help?


That's very bright.

For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at
least you can change those when they fail).

--

Jeff

On Saturday, 7 November 2020 07:54:43 UTC, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 06/11/2020 23:52, williamwright wrote:
On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote:

solar panel LED light solution?

I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help?


That's very bright.

For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at
least you can change those when they fail).

There are many places where 30W LED is held to be more or less equivalent to 300W halogen.

Plus, typically, LEDs have at least a slightly higher colour temperature which changes effective vision significantly.

Jeff Layman wrote:

williamwright wrote:

That's very bright.

For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at
least you can change those when they fail).

I fitted a cheapo LED (the type with a bacofoil reflector that does
nothing since the LED shines forwards anyway) it died quickly, replaced
by a Brackenheath iSpot 30W, still ok after 3 years, whole face is a
heatsink.

screwfix no longer sell them though ...

This is its 50W big brother

https://www.powersaver.co.uk/brackenheath-ispot-c-led-floodlight-50w-black-i2020b.html

On 07/11/2020 07:54, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 06/11/2020 23:52, williamwright wrote:
On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote:

solar panel LED light solution?

I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that
help?


That's very bright.

For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at
least you can change those when they fail).

I replaced a 70W sodium with a 30W LED and it seems to be much brighter.

Bill

On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:52:21 +0000, williamwright wrote:

solar panel LED light solution?

I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does
that
help?

That's very bright.

Aye, VERY bright for inside of a shed. Define shed though our
neighbours "shed" is about 15 x 10 metres. Our "shed" is 8 x 6
feet...

It would also rule out solar power for the evisaged 4 to 5 hours per
day for 4 to 5 times a week. Unless you want to spend three figure
sums on the system.

Battery, maybe, a 17 AHr sealed lead acid 12 V battery taken back to
the house and charged after every session would work with a 30 W LED
even with the losses of an invertor to take the 12 V up to mains for
the light to bring it back down again. Assuming the amount of light
required really is that that a mains 30 W LED will produce. That
battery will weigh about 6 kg.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 07/11/2020 10:04:26, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:52:21 +0000, williamwright wrote:

solar panel LED light solution?

I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does
that
help?

That's very bright.

Aye, VERY bright for inside of a shed. Define shed though our
neighbours "shed" is about 15 x 10 metres. Our "shed" is 8 x 6
feet...

It would also rule out solar power for the evisaged 4 to 5 hours per
day for 4 to 5 times a week. Unless you want to spend three figure
sums on the system.

I think getting a man in will also cost 3 figures for F's management's
needs.

I do wonder why 30W for 4-5 hours at a time? Most floodlights are
powered by PIR.

On 07/11/2020 10:04, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:52:21 +0000, williamwright wrote:

solar panel LED light solution?

I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does
that
help?

That's very bright.

Aye, VERY bright for inside of a shed.

It's *on* the shed, not *in* the shed (which is 8x6 so, yes, 30W would
be blinding).

--
Frank

On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 21:07:16 +0000, F wrote:

Management is asking for a light on the garden shed.

For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often
and for how long each time?

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 06/11/2020 21:19, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 21:07:16 +0000, F wrote:

Management is asking for a light on the garden shed.

For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often
and for how long each time?

To see by... up to 4 or 5 hours at a time, up to 4 or 5 days a week.

It's Management so she reserves the right to change her mind.

--
Frank

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 21:07:16 +0000, F wrote:

Management is asking for a light on the garden shed.

For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often
and for how long each time?

As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there
rather than to provide light inside the shed. We have been
considering a similar problem in our garden, needing a way to light
the way across the lawn (which has some obstructions) to a cabin about
20 metres away.

--
Chris Green
·

On 07/11/2020 10:45, Chris Green wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 21:07:16 +0000, F wrote:

Management is asking for a light on the garden shed.

For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often
and for how long each time?

As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there
rather than to provide light inside the shed. We have been
considering a similar problem in our garden, needing a way to light
the way across the lawn (which has some obstructions) to a cabin about
20 metres away.

A chamber pot in the house is the usual solution.

--
Max Demian

On Sat, 7 Nov 2020 10:45:58 +0000, Chris Green wrote:

Management is asking for a light on the garden shed.

For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How
often
and for how long each time?

As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there

Hey when did the "i" change to an "o"...?

30 W is still quite a bit of light, just replaced our exterior light
with:

https://cpc.farnell.com/ledvance/405...t-10w-3000k-wh
ite-ip65/dp/LA07573

https://tinyurl.com/y4m9kzsj

Ample light to not fall over things, the frosted glass takes the
sharpness of the still quite small light source. 90 degree beam angle
makes it easier to control where the light goes. Warm white pleasing
to the eye rather than the cold "daylight" ones.

Not sure putting it on the shed is a good idea, it's quite likely to
be fairly low and thus to shine into your eyes as you're walking to
said shed. You also won't be able see anything past it when looking
from the house. Heard a noise? Is that some tealeaf trying to relieve
you of something from the shed? Think it would be better higher up on
the house looking steeply down to illuminate the general area without
shining in your eyes or creating areas of blackness.

We have been considering a similar problem in our garden, needing a way
to light the way across the lawn (which has some obstructions) to a
cabin about 20 metres away.

Wired "spike lights"? Just to mark changes in direction or a hazard.
You don't need to be able to actually see the path just know where it
goes.
Maybe something high up on the house to provide some low light level
general ilumination.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 7 Nov 2020 10:45:58 +0000, Chris Green wrote:

Management is asking for a light on the garden shed.

For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How
often
and for how long each time?

As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there

Hey when did the "i" change to an "o"...?

It's in the top line of what you just quoted! :-)

"Management is asking for a light on the garden shed."

--
Chris Green
·

On Saturday, 7 November 2020 at 15:03:07 UTC, Chris Green wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 7 Nov 2020 10:45:58 +0000, Chris Green wrote:

Management is asking for a light on the garden shed.

For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How
often
and for how long each time?

As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there

Hey when did the "i" change to an "o"...?

It's in the top line of what you just quoted! :-)
"Management is asking for a light on the garden shed."
--
Chris Green
·
If it is just to light the way, we had a similar problem trying to reverse down the drive, I used low voltage deck lights set into a block paving mowing edge they act like runway landing lights to mark the edge of the drive.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6jyemte57p...10.57.jpg?dl=0

The black conduit is the feed into the house which goes to a smart socket so can ask Alexa to switch them on.

Richard

On 07/11/2020 10:45, Chris Green wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 21:07:16 +0000, F wrote:

Management is asking for a light on the garden shed.

For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often
and for how long each time?

As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there
rather than to provide light inside the shed. We have been
considering a similar problem in our garden, needing a way to light
the way across the lawn (which has some obstructions) to a cabin about
20 metres away.

You win the t-shirt!

--
Frank

On 06/11/2020 21:07, F wrote:

Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is
a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a
gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)?

Yup.

If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

Inside, ordinary T&E, then probably Steel Wire Armoured outside.

I would probably go with a weatherproof junction box or external socket
on the outside wall of the utility - with the feed going straight
through the wall into the back of it. Then connecting SWA down from
there to the shed - you can bury it directly if required, or clip it to
a suitable surface. Then the same trick again on the shed end with a
junction box or socket to transition from the SWA back to T&E. I would
go into the shed, stick a socket in there if it would be handy, then a
FCU with 3A or 5A fuse to feed lights. Again could have an internal one
in the shed if you want.

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect
if we go ahead and put it out to a professional.

Electrically its not difficult, most of the work is routing the cables.
So if you can DIY it would be significantly cheaper.

Probably way more detail that you need:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...ricity_outside
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cables
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cable_burial
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Terminating_SWA

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:31:52 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the
nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)?

Yup.

No RCD? We don't know if the ring from which the spur is taken has an
RCD or not. Even if it does, you don't really want a fault in the
shed switching off part of the house. Putting an RCD in the shed
doesn't mean that that one will trip first, the chances are it won't
as the upstream one is likely to have other leakage earth currents
flowing making it a little more sensitive.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:31:52 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the
nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)?

Yup.

No RCD? We don't know if the ring from which the spur is taken has an
RCD or not. Even if it does, you don't really want a fault in the
shed switching off part of the house. Putting an RCD in the shed
doesn't mean that that one will trip first, the chances are it won't
as the upstream one is likely to have other leakage earth currents
flowing making it a little more sensitive.

The only way round the discrimination issue really is to have a
separate circuit on the CU. The ring circuit in the house will have
(if it is RCD protected) a 30mA non-time-delayed RCD, anything
downstream will almost inevitably be the same - no discrimination.

I have my 'outdoors' wiring (lights, some sockets in a tack room,
etc.) on a separate RCD in the CU for this very reason. Things
outdoors do get water in them and you don't want the whole world to go
off when they do.

(The main house CU is now all individual RCBOs but that came later)

--
Chris Green
·

On 07/11/2020 10:51, Chris Green wrote:
I have my 'outdoors' wiring (lights, some sockets in a tack room,
etc.) on a separate RCD in the CU for this very reason.

Yes, after 40 years' of annoyance I finally put all my outdoor electrics
on a separate CU and RCD.

Bil

On 07/11/2020 10:10, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:31:52 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the
nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)?

Yup.

No RCD?

Covered in the article I linked:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...ting_circui t

We don't know if the ring from which the spur is taken has an
RCD or not. Even if it does, you don't really want a fault in the
shed switching off part of the house.

Well in a general sense, its good design practice to avoid importing
potential problems from exterior circuits into the house so to speak, it
does rather depend on what level of inconvenience you are prepared to
put up with and how much you want to spend.

Putting an RCD in the shed
doesn't mean that that one will trip first,

True - although it does depend on how you do it.

the chances are it won't
as the upstream one is likely to have other leakage earth currents
flowing making it a little more sensitive.

With cascaded RCDs and no time delay on the upstream one, its a lottery
as to which would trip first. The actual trip threshold matter less than
you might first expect since many trip scenarios on a shed socket will
cause leakage well over the leakage threshold of either device. So its
only the narrow case of (say) 15mA leakage on both main circuit and
submain that makes an upstream only trip more likely.




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 06/11/2020 23:31, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/11/2020 21:07, F wrote:

Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is
a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a
gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)?

Yup.

If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

Inside, ordinary T&E, then probably Steel Wire Armoured outside.

I would probably go with a weatherproof junction box or external socket
on the outside wall of the utility - with the feed going straight
through the wall into the back of it. Then connecting SWA down from
there to the shed - you can bury it directly if required, or clip it to
a suitable surface. Then the same trick again on the shed end with a
junction box or socket to transition from the SWA back to T&E. I would
go into the shed, stick a socket in there if it would be handy, then a
FCU with 3A or 5A fuse to feed lights. Again could have an internal one
in the shed if you want.

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect
if we go ahead and put it out to a professional.

Electrically its not difficult, most of the work is routing the cables.
So if you can DIY it would be significantly cheaper.

Probably way more detail that you need:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...ricity_outside
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cables
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cable_burial
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Terminating_SWA

Thank you! That's seriously useful and tells me exactly what I wanted to
know.

--
Frank

On Friday, 6 November 2020 21:07:20 UTC, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is
a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under
a gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect
if we go ahead and put it out to a professional.

Have you considered using a 12V LED light?

Then you wouldn't have the problem of mains cable (other than to the mains-to-12V "transformer").

Is 30W really needed? Our external lighting is around to 3 watts - four units round the building. Perfectly adequate for our needs (but possibly not yours). And they only come on for a couple of minutes. Excess light seems to be widespread. Nearest streetlamp has been out for months. Sadly they have just replaced it. Far nicer when it was dark (there is another one down the street so not exactly without light).

On Friday, 6 November 2020 23:56:17 UTC, polygonum_on_google wrote:
On Friday, 6 November 2020 21:07:20 UTC, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is
a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under
a gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect
if we go ahead and put it out to a professional.

Have you considered using a 12V LED light?

Then you wouldn't have the problem of mains cable (other than to the mains-to-12V "transformer").

Is 30W really needed? Our external lighting is around to 3 watts - four units round the building. Perfectly adequate for our needs (but possibly not yours). And they only come on for a couple of minutes. Excess light seems to be widespread. Nearest streetlamp has been out for months. Sadly they have just replaced it. Far nicer when it was dark (there is another one down the street so not exactly without light).

Should say "2 to 3 watts".

On Friday, 6 November 2020 23:56:17 UTC, polygonum_on_google wrote:
Have you considered using a 12V LED light?
Then you wouldn't have the problem of mains cable (other than to the
mains-to-12V "transformer").

Agreed, or even 24 volt. Interior and work lights for 24 volt are available from truck electric suppliers (and many are dual-voltage for cars and trucks).

Higher voltage would reduce volt drop.

2 amp at 24 volt = 48 watts of LED, which should be ample for even quite a large shed!

Owain

Note, not talking about legality here, but for many years my old sheds
supply consisted of a catenaries wire tight between house and shed, starting
high on the house end, and strung under it some normal pvc covered three
core cable. As you say all wired into a spur in the kitchen and the other
end fed into the shed with 1 light and a socket for lawn mower etc.
Not much good for a 3kw heater or anything but enough to get the job done
and out of harms way.
Hint, do note site a barbeque under the wire. grin.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres
from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a
possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a
gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if
we go ahead and put it out to a professional.

--
Frank

On 07/11/2020 08:36, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:
Note, not talking about legality here, but for many years my old sheds
supply consisted of a catenaries wire tight between house and shed, starting
high on the house end, and strung under it some normal pvc covered three
core cable. As you say all wired into a spur in the kitchen and the other
end fed into the shed with 1 light and a socket for lawn mower etc.
Not much good for a 3kw heater or anything but enough to get the job done
and out of harms way.
Hint, do note site a barbeque under the wire. grin.
Brian

Thats what I have done, its around 12 feet & about 8 feet above ground
level, it is connected indoors to a plug socket and I just switch it on
when required.
Its not high load, garden trimmer or once in a while light for shed at
night.

"Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)" wrote:
Note, not talking about legality here, but for many years my old sheds
supply consisted of a catenaries wire tight between house and shed, starting
high on the house end, and strung under it some normal pvc covered three
core cable. As you say all wired into a spur in the kitchen and the other
end fed into the shed with 1 light and a socket for lawn mower etc.
Not much good for a 3kw heater or anything but enough to get the job done
and out of harms way.
Hint, do note site a barbeque under the wire. grin.

Catenary supported mains cable is OK regulations-wise as long as it's
done properly.

--
Chris Green
·

"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres
from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a
possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a
gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if
we go ahead and put it out to a professional.


If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at a
battery powered LED security light.
As it's LEDs & only on for minutes at a time the batteries last ages.

--
Regards
wasbit

In article ,
wasbit wrote:
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres
from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a
possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a
gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if
we go ahead and put it out to a professional.


If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at a
battery powered LED security light.
As it's LEDs & only on for minutes at a time the batteries last ages.

I found one, earlier in the year, where the solar panel is on a long cable
away from the light. This means the light itself can be mounted where the
sun never shines.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 07/11/2020 12:01, charles wrote:
In article ,
wasbit wrote:

If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at a
battery powered LED security light.
As it's LEDs & only on for minutes at a time the batteries last ages.

I found one, earlier in the year, where the solar panel is on a long cable
away from the light. This means the light itself can be mounted where the
sun never shines.

Painful!

--
Max Demian

On Saturday, 7 November 2020 12:10:44 UTC, charles wrote:
In article ,
wasbit wrote:

If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at a
battery powered LED security light.
As it's LEDs & only on for minutes at a time the batteries last ages.

I found one, earlier in the year, where the solar panel is on a long cable
away from the light. This means the light itself can be mounted where the
sun never shines.

Sounds uncomfortable!

"charles" wrote in message
...
In article ,
wasbit wrote:
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres
from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a
possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a
gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect
if
we go ahead and put it out to a professional.


If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at a
battery powered LED security light.
As it's LEDs & only on for minutes at a time the batteries last ages.

I found one, earlier in the year, where the solar panel is on a long cable
away from the light. This means the light itself can be mounted where the
sun never shines.


Battery powered, not solar, which allows them to be mounted where most
convenient.

Of course it will depend on whether the OP considers them a suitable
solution or even a partial or temporary solution.

Last year I installed 3 for different OAPs. 2 over their back doors to show
up any callers & give a little light to the path. The third was mounted on
the inside of the gate on a 20m long pathway to show the way when she came
home after dark.

--
Regards
wasbit

In article , wasbit
wrote:
"charles" wrote in message
...
In article , wasbit
wrote:
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two.
There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and
then under a gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the
nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what
cabling and protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to
expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional.


If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at
a battery powered LED security light. As it's LEDs & only on for
minutes at a time the batteries last ages.

I found one, earlier in the year, where the solar panel is on a long
cable away from the light. This means the light itself can be mounted
where the sun never shines.


Battery powered, not solar, which allows them to be mounted where most
convenient.

Battery powered, but solar recharged. Like a great many devices.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 07/11/2020 11:29, wasbit wrote:
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There
is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then
under a gravel run.

Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest
internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and
protection would be required between the two?

This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect
if we go ahead and put it out to a professional.


If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at a
battery powered LED security light.
As it's LEDs & only on for minutes at a time the batteries last ages.

I would suggest that for the scenario the OP describes (long run time,
all year round, relatively high wattage), battery or solar powered
solutions are non starters.



--
Cheers,

John.

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On 06/11/2020 21:07, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed.

On the shed or in the shed? In either case, a single light source
(especially outdoors) isn't good for task lighting. To many shadows,
getting in your own light, uneven illumination, etc. Try to soften the
light, or use several low wattage lamps.

If it's inside the shed a 30W LED panel (600 x 600) would be much better.

Bill

On 07/11/2020 14:30, williamwright wrote:
On 06/11/2020 21:07, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed.

On the shed or in the shed?

It's in the line you quoted...

--
Frank