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Lighting to a shed
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5
metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. -- Frank |
Lighting to a shed
On 06/11/2020 21:07:16, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. If going the professional route it might be cost effective to consider a solar panel LED light solution? |
Lighting to a shed
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 21:07:16 +0000, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often and for how long each time? -- Cheers Dave. |
Lighting to a shed
On 06/11/2020 21:19, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 21:07:16 +0000, F wrote: Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often and for how long each time? To see by... up to 4 or 5 hours at a time, up to 4 or 5 days a week. It's Management so she reserves the right to change her mind. -- Frank |
Lighting to a shed
On 06/11/2020 21:11, Fredxx wrote:
On 06/11/2020 21:07:16, F wrote: Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. If going the professional route it might be cost effective to consider a solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? -- Frank |
Lighting to a shed
On 06/11/2020 21:07, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? Yup. If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? Inside, ordinary T&E, then probably Steel Wire Armoured outside. I would probably go with a weatherproof junction box or external socket on the outside wall of the utility - with the feed going straight through the wall into the back of it. Then connecting SWA down from there to the shed - you can bury it directly if required, or clip it to a suitable surface. Then the same trick again on the shed end with a junction box or socket to transition from the SWA back to T&E. I would go into the shed, stick a socket in there if it would be handy, then a FCU with 3A or 5A fuse to feed lights. Again could have an internal one in the shed if you want. This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. Electrically its not difficult, most of the work is routing the cables. So if you can DIY it would be significantly cheaper. Probably way more detail that you need: http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...ricity_outside http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cables http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cable_burial http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Terminating_SWA -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Lighting to a shed
On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote:
solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? That's very bright. Bill |
Lighting to a shed
On Friday, 6 November 2020 21:07:20 UTC, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. Have you considered using a 12V LED light? Then you wouldn't have the problem of mains cable (other than to the mains-to-12V "transformer"). Is 30W really needed? Our external lighting is around to 3 watts - four units round the building. Perfectly adequate for our needs (but possibly not yours). And they only come on for a couple of minutes. Excess light seems to be widespread. Nearest streetlamp has been out for months. Sadly they have just replaced it. Far nicer when it was dark (there is another one down the street so not exactly without light). |
Lighting to a shed
On Friday, 6 November 2020 23:56:17 UTC, polygonum_on_google wrote:
On Friday, 6 November 2020 21:07:20 UTC, F wrote: Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. Have you considered using a 12V LED light? Then you wouldn't have the problem of mains cable (other than to the mains-to-12V "transformer"). Is 30W really needed? Our external lighting is around to 3 watts - four units round the building. Perfectly adequate for our needs (but possibly not yours). And they only come on for a couple of minutes. Excess light seems to be widespread. Nearest streetlamp has been out for months. Sadly they have just replaced it. Far nicer when it was dark (there is another one down the street so not exactly without light). Should say "2 to 3 watts". |
Lighting to a shed
On 06/11/2020 23:52, williamwright wrote:
On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote: solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? That's very bright. For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at least you can change those when they fail). -- Jeff |
Lighting to a shed
Note, not talking about legality here, but for many years my old sheds
supply consisted of a catenaries wire tight between house and shed, starting high on the house end, and strung under it some normal pvc covered three core cable. As you say all wired into a spur in the kitchen and the other end fed into the shed with 1 light and a socket for lawn mower etc. Not much good for a 3kw heater or anything but enough to get the job done and out of harms way. Hint, do note site a barbeque under the wire. grin. Brian -- This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... Blind user, so no pictures please Note this Signature is meaningless.! "F" news@nowhere wrote in message o.uk... Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. -- Frank |
Lighting to a shed
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:52:21 +0000, williamwright wrote:
solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? That's very bright. Aye, VERY bright for inside of a shed. Define shed though our neighbours "shed" is about 15 x 10 metres. Our "shed" is 8 x 6 feet... It would also rule out solar power for the evisaged 4 to 5 hours per day for 4 to 5 times a week. Unless you want to spend three figure sums on the system. Battery, maybe, a 17 AHr sealed lead acid 12 V battery taken back to the house and charged after every session would work with a 30 W LED even with the losses of an invertor to take the 12 V up to mains for the light to bring it back down again. Assuming the amount of light required really is that that a mains 30 W LED will produce. That battery will weigh about 6 kg. -- Cheers Dave. |
Lighting to a shed
On Saturday, 7 November 2020 07:54:43 UTC, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 06/11/2020 23:52, williamwright wrote: On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote: solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? That's very bright. For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at least you can change those when they fail). There are many places where 30W LED is held to be more or less equivalent to 300W halogen. Plus, typically, LEDs have at least a slightly higher colour temperature which changes effective vision significantly. |
Lighting to a shed
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:31:52 +0000, John Rumm wrote:
Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? Yup. No RCD? We don't know if the ring from which the spur is taken has an RCD or not. Even if it does, you don't really want a fault in the shed switching off part of the house. Putting an RCD in the shed doesn't mean that that one will trip first, the chances are it won't as the upstream one is likely to have other leakage earth currents flowing making it a little more sensitive. -- Cheers Dave. |
Lighting to a shed
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 21:07:16 +0000, F wrote: Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often and for how long each time? As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there rather than to provide light inside the shed. We have been considering a similar problem in our garden, needing a way to light the way across the lawn (which has some obstructions) to a cabin about 20 metres away. -- Chris Green · |
Lighting to a shed
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:31:52 +0000, John Rumm wrote: Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? Yup. No RCD? We don't know if the ring from which the spur is taken has an RCD or not. Even if it does, you don't really want a fault in the shed switching off part of the house. Putting an RCD in the shed doesn't mean that that one will trip first, the chances are it won't as the upstream one is likely to have other leakage earth currents flowing making it a little more sensitive. The only way round the discrimination issue really is to have a separate circuit on the CU. The ring circuit in the house will have (if it is RCD protected) a 30mA non-time-delayed RCD, anything downstream will almost inevitably be the same - no discrimination. I have my 'outdoors' wiring (lights, some sockets in a tack room, etc.) on a separate RCD in the CU for this very reason. Things outdoors do get water in them and you don't want the whole world to go off when they do. (The main house CU is now all individual RCBOs but that came later) -- Chris Green · |
Lighting to a shed
"Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)" wrote:
Note, not talking about legality here, but for many years my old sheds supply consisted of a catenaries wire tight between house and shed, starting high on the house end, and strung under it some normal pvc covered three core cable. As you say all wired into a spur in the kitchen and the other end fed into the shed with 1 light and a socket for lawn mower etc. Not much good for a 3kw heater or anything but enough to get the job done and out of harms way. Hint, do note site a barbeque under the wire. grin. Catenary supported mains cable is OK regulations-wise as long as it's done properly. -- Chris Green · |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 08:36, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:
Note, not talking about legality here, but for many years my old sheds supply consisted of a catenaries wire tight between house and shed, starting high on the house end, and strung under it some normal pvc covered three core cable. As you say all wired into a spur in the kitchen and the other end fed into the shed with 1 light and a socket for lawn mower etc. Not much good for a 3kw heater or anything but enough to get the job done and out of harms way. Hint, do note site a barbeque under the wire. grin. Brian Thats what I have done, its around 12 feet & about 8 feet above ground level, it is connected indoors to a plug socket and I just switch it on when required. Its not high load, garden trimmer or once in a while light for shed at night. |
Lighting to a shed
On Friday, 6 November 2020 23:56:17 UTC, polygonum_on_google wrote:
Have you considered using a 12V LED light? Then you wouldn't have the problem of mains cable (other than to the mains-to-12V "transformer"). Agreed, or even 24 volt. Interior and work lights for 24 volt are available from truck electric suppliers (and many are dual-voltage for cars and trucks). Higher voltage would reduce volt drop. 2 amp at 24 volt = 48 watts of LED, which should be ample for even quite a large shed! Owain |
Lighting to a shed
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk... Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at a battery powered LED security light. As it's LEDs & only on for minutes at a time the batteries last ages. -- Regards wasbit |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 10:45, Chris Green wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote: On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 21:07:16 +0000, F wrote: Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often and for how long each time? As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there rather than to provide light inside the shed. We have been considering a similar problem in our garden, needing a way to light the way across the lawn (which has some obstructions) to a cabin about 20 metres away. A chamber pot in the house is the usual solution. -- Max Demian |
Lighting to a shed
On Sat, 7 Nov 2020 10:45:58 +0000, Chris Green wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often and for how long each time? As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there Hey when did the "i" change to an "o"...? 30 W is still quite a bit of light, just replaced our exterior light with: https://cpc.farnell.com/ledvance/405...t-10w-3000k-wh ite-ip65/dp/LA07573 https://tinyurl.com/y4m9kzsj Ample light to not fall over things, the frosted glass takes the sharpness of the still quite small light source. 90 degree beam angle makes it easier to control where the light goes. Warm white pleasing to the eye rather than the cold "daylight" ones. Not sure putting it on the shed is a good idea, it's quite likely to be fairly low and thus to shine into your eyes as you're walking to said shed. You also won't be able see anything past it when looking from the house. Heard a noise? Is that some tealeaf trying to relieve you of something from the shed? Think it would be better higher up on the house looking steeply down to illuminate the general area without shining in your eyes or creating areas of blackness. We have been considering a similar problem in our garden, needing a way to light the way across the lawn (which has some obstructions) to a cabin about 20 metres away. Wired "spike lights"? Just to mark changes in direction or a hazard. You don't need to be able to actually see the path just know where it goes. Maybe something high up on the house to provide some low light level general ilumination. -- Cheers Dave. |
Lighting to a shed
In article ,
wasbit wrote: "F" news@nowhere wrote in message o.uk... Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at a battery powered LED security light. As it's LEDs & only on for minutes at a time the batteries last ages. I found one, earlier in the year, where the solar panel is on a long cable away from the light. This means the light itself can be mounted where the sun never shines. -- from KT24 in Surrey, England "I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 10:04:26, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:52:21 +0000, williamwright wrote: solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? That's very bright. Aye, VERY bright for inside of a shed. Define shed though our neighbours "shed" is about 15 x 10 metres. Our "shed" is 8 x 6 feet... It would also rule out solar power for the evisaged 4 to 5 hours per day for 4 to 5 times a week. Unless you want to spend three figure sums on the system. I think getting a man in will also cost 3 figures for F's management's needs. I do wonder why 30W for 4-5 hours at a time? Most floodlights are powered by PIR. |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 10:07, polygonum_on_google wrote:
On Saturday, 7 November 2020 07:54:43 UTC, Jeff Layman wrote: On 06/11/2020 23:52, williamwright wrote: On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote: solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? That's very bright. For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at least you can change those when they fail). There are many places where 30W LED is held to be more or less equivalent to 300W halogen. Got any links for those? From what I've seen, available 30w floodlights are around 2400 - 2900lm (https://cpc.farnell.com/c/electronic-electrical-components/optoelectronics-leds-displays/leds/led-floodlightings/30w-led-floodlights?pageSize=50) 300W R7 halogens are around 4600 - 4900lm. Screwfix appear to be doing 230W R7 halogens which give 4650lm. Their 120W bulbs give 2250lm. https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/light-bulbs/cat8350001?lightbulbtechnology=halogen Plus, typically, LEDs have at least a slightly higher colour temperature which changes effective vision significantly. I assume "floodlight" leds are usually supplied at that higher colour temp, rather than the choice you get with, for example, GU10s. -- Jeff |
Lighting to a shed
Jeff Layman wrote:
williamwright wrote: That's very bright. For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at least you can change those when they fail). I fitted a cheapo LED (the type with a bacofoil reflector that does nothing since the LED shines forwards anyway) it died quickly, replaced by a Brackenheath iSpot 30W, still ok after 3 years, whole face is a heatsink. screwfix no longer sell them though ... This is its 50W big brother https://www.powersaver.co.uk/brackenheath-ispot-c-led-floodlight-50w-black-i2020b.html |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 10:10, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:31:52 +0000, John Rumm wrote: Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? Yup. No RCD? Covered in the article I linked: http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...ting_circui t We don't know if the ring from which the spur is taken has an RCD or not. Even if it does, you don't really want a fault in the shed switching off part of the house. Well in a general sense, its good design practice to avoid importing potential problems from exterior circuits into the house so to speak, it does rather depend on what level of inconvenience you are prepared to put up with and how much you want to spend. Putting an RCD in the shed doesn't mean that that one will trip first, True - although it does depend on how you do it. the chances are it won't as the upstream one is likely to have other leakage earth currents flowing making it a little more sensitive. With cascaded RCDs and no time delay on the upstream one, its a lottery as to which would trip first. The actual trip threshold matter less than you might first expect since many trip scenarios on a shed socket will cause leakage well over the leakage threshold of either device. So its only the narrow case of (say) 15mA leakage on both main circuit and submain that makes an upstream only trip more likely. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 11:29, wasbit wrote:
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message o.uk... Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at a battery powered LED security light. As it's LEDs & only on for minutes at a time the batteries last ages. I would suggest that for the scenario the OP describes (long run time, all year round, relatively high wattage), battery or solar powered solutions are non starters. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 10:04, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 23:52:21 +0000, williamwright wrote: solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? That's very bright. Aye, VERY bright for inside of a shed. It's *on* the shed, not *in* the shed (which is 8x6 so, yes, 30W would be blinding). -- Frank |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 10:45, Chris Green wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote: On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 21:07:16 +0000, F wrote: Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often and for how long each time? As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there rather than to provide light inside the shed. We have been considering a similar problem in our garden, needing a way to light the way across the lawn (which has some obstructions) to a cabin about 20 metres away. You win the t-shirt! -- Frank |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 07:54, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 06/11/2020 23:52, williamwright wrote: On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote: solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? That's very bright. For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at least you can change those when they fail). I replaced a 70W sodium with a 30W LED and it seems to be much brighter. Bill |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 13:23, Andy Burns wrote:
I fitted a cheapo LED (the type with a bacofoil reflector that does nothing since the LED shines forwards anyway) it died quickly, Yes, I've learnt to avoid the cheap LED floods. Bill |
Lighting to a shed
On 06/11/2020 23:31, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/11/2020 21:07, F wrote: Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. It's around 5 metres from the house with a paving slab patio between the two. There is a possible route round the edge under some block paving and then under a gravel run. Could the supply be taken from, say, a fused spur fed from the nearest internal 13 amp socket (the utility room)? Yup. If so, what cabling and protection would be required between the two? Inside, ordinary T&E, then probably Steel Wire Armoured outside. I would probably go with a weatherproof junction box or external socket on the outside wall of the utility - with the feed going straight through the wall into the back of it. Then connecting SWA down from there to the shed - you can bury it directly if required, or clip it to a suitable surface. Then the same trick again on the shed end with a junction box or socket to transition from the SWA back to T&E. I would go into the shed, stick a socket in there if it would be handy, then a FCU with 3A or 5A fuse to feed lights. Again could have an internal one in the shed if you want. This is not necessarily DIY but I would like an idea on what to expect if we go ahead and put it out to a professional. Electrically its not difficult, most of the work is routing the cables. So if you can DIY it would be significantly cheaper. Probably way more detail that you need: http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...ricity_outside http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cables http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cable_burial http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Terminating_SWA Thank you! That's seriously useful and tells me exactly what I wanted to know. -- Frank |
Lighting to a shed
On 06/11/2020 21:07, F wrote:
Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. On the shed or in the shed? In either case, a single light source (especially outdoors) isn't good for task lighting. To many shadows, getting in your own light, uneven illumination, etc. Try to soften the light, or use several low wattage lamps. If it's inside the shed a 30W LED panel (600 x 600) would be much better. Bill |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 10:51, Chris Green wrote:
I have my 'outdoors' wiring (lights, some sockets in a tack room, etc.) on a separate RCD in the CU for this very reason. Yes, after 40 years' of annoyance I finally put all my outdoor electrics on a separate CU and RCD. Bil |
Lighting to a shed
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 7 Nov 2020 10:45:58 +0000, Chris Green wrote: Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often and for how long each time? As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there Hey when did the "i" change to an "o"...? It's in the top line of what you just quoted! :-) "Management is asking for a light on the garden shed." -- Chris Green · |
Lighting to a shed
On Saturday, 7 November 2020 at 15:03:07 UTC, Chris Green wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote: On Sat, 7 Nov 2020 10:45:58 +0000, Chris Green wrote: Management is asking for a light on the garden shed. For what purpose? ("to see by" is not a useful answer...). How often and for how long each time? As it's "on" the garden shed I guess it may be to light the way there Hey when did the "i" change to an "o"...? It's in the top line of what you just quoted! :-) "Management is asking for a light on the garden shed." -- Chris Green · If it is just to light the way, we had a similar problem trying to reverse down the drive, I used low voltage deck lights set into a block paving mowing edge they act like runway landing lights to mark the edge of the drive. https://www.dropbox.com/s/6jyemte57p...10.57.jpg?dl=0 The black conduit is the feed into the house which goes to a smart socket so can ask Alexa to switch them on. Richard |
Lighting to a shed
On Saturday, 7 November 2020 13:04:30 UTC, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 07/11/2020 10:07, polygonum_on_google wrote: On Saturday, 7 November 2020 07:54:43 UTC, Jeff Layman wrote: On 06/11/2020 23:52, williamwright wrote: On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote: solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? That's very bright. For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at least you can change those when they fail). There are many places where 30W LED is held to be more or less equivalent to 300W halogen. Got any links for those? From what I've seen, available 30w floodlights are around 2400 - 2900lm (https://cpc.farnell.com/c/electronic-electrical-components/optoelectronics-leds-displays/leds/led-floodlightings/30w-led-floodlights?pageSize=50) 300W R7 halogens are around 4600 - 4900lm. Screwfix appear to be doing 230W R7 halogens which give 4650lm. Their 120W bulbs give 2250lm. https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/light-bulbs/cat8350001?lightbulbtechnology=halogen Plus, typically, LEDs have at least a slightly higher colour temperature which changes effective vision significantly. I assume "floodlight" leds are usually supplied at that higher colour temp, rather than the choice you get with, for example, GU10s. One example: https://www.leds4less.co.uk/30w-led-...ting-456-p.asp Truthfulness, I don't know. But I have an 18W LED in my living room and it fully lights the whole room perfectly well on its own - despite being, basically, an uplighter so depending on reflection from ceiling/walls. |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 12:01, charles wrote:
In article , wasbit wrote: If it's just for use as an outside light to show you the path, look at a battery powered LED security light. As it's LEDs & only on for minutes at a time the batteries last ages. I found one, earlier in the year, where the solar panel is on a long cable away from the light. This means the light itself can be mounted where the sun never shines. Painful! -- Max Demian |
Lighting to a shed
On 07/11/2020 14:25, williamwright wrote:
On 07/11/2020 07:54, Jeff Layman wrote: On 06/11/2020 23:52, williamwright wrote: On 06/11/2020 22:28, F wrote: solar panel LED light solution? I should have said: she's looking for a 30W LED floodlight. Does that help? That's very bright. For an LED, yes, but about the same as an old R7 120W halogen (and at least you can change those when they fail). I replaced a 70W sodium with a 30W LED and it seems to be much brighter. Strange, unless the 70W sodium was on the way out. When new, the latter gives around 5000lm, compared to less than 3000 for a 30W led. -- Jeff |
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