I'm restoring a Cooksley 12x9 planer thicknesser from the late 1960's.

This has a separate thicknesser feed motor and gearbox, and it's very doubtful if the gearbox oil has ever been changed let alone topped up.

The gearbox has a 14:1 ratio from a two speed Dahlander wound motor.

Fortunately I've found a copy of the maintenance manual on the net, which calls up this oil "BP Energol GR 425- EP"

I can't find any mention of this oil or an equivalent - can any body give any guidance please.

Rob Graham wrote:

this oil "BP Energol GR 425- EP"

I can't find any mention of this oil or an equivalent

BP/Castrol say Energol oils are part of their legacy range and being
phased out, I had a nose around on their website, they seemed to suggest
Alpha SP as replacement

https://thelubricantoracle.castrol.com/range/alpha-sp/industrial/en-JP

But looks like you'll have to choose between going up, or down on the
viscosity ... maybe contact them?

On 13/08/2020 09:36, Andy Burns wrote:
Rob Graham wrote:

this oil "BP Energol GR 425- EP"

I can't find any mention of this oil or an equivalent

BP/Castrol say Energol oils are part of their legacy range and being
phased out, I had a nose around on their website, they seemed to suggest
Alpha SP as replacement

https://thelubricantoracle.castrol.com/range/alpha-sp/industrial/en-JP

But looks like you'll have to choose between going up, or down on the
viscosity ... maybe contact them?

In an "ordinary" industrial gearbox, one viscosity grade either way will
not matter. With a thicker oil, it will warm up a shade and drop the
viscosity. Similarly a thinner oil will run a shade cooler.

I wouldn't apply this principle to a modern military helicopter where
there may be narrower margins.

The important thing is to chose an EP lubricant so Alpha SP should be
fine. No need to stick to BP if you have another EP gear oil of the
correct viscosity.

On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 9:57:21 AM UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 13/08/2020 09:36, Andy Burns wrote:
Rob Graham wrote:

this oil "BP Energol GR 425- EP"

I can't find any mention of this oil or an equivalent

BP/Castrol say Energol oils are part of their legacy range and being
phased out, I had a nose around on their website, they seemed to suggest
Alpha SP as replacement

https://thelubricantoracle.castrol.com/range/alpha-sp/industrial/en-JP

But looks like you'll have to choose between going up, or down on the
viscosity ... maybe contact them?
In an "ordinary" industrial gearbox, one viscosity grade either way will
not matter. With a thicker oil, it will warm up a shade and drop the
viscosity. Similarly a thinner oil will run a shade cooler.

I wouldn't apply this principle to a modern military helicopter where
there may be narrower margins.

The important thing is to chose an EP lubricant so Alpha SP should be
fine. No need to stick to BP if you have another EP gear oil of the
correct viscosity.


Many thanks guys - I was assuming the '430' meant the viscosity but didn't know.
I imagine that going up to 460 wouldn't make much difference. If I went down to 320 that would make it easier for the motor but would there be a danger then of oil getting passed the shaft seals?

On 13/08/2020 16:16, Rob Graham wrote:
On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 9:57:21 AM UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 13/08/2020 09:36, Andy Burns wrote:
Rob Graham wrote:

this oil "BP Energol GR 425- EP"

I can't find any mention of this oil or an equivalent

BP/Castrol say Energol oils are part of their legacy range and being
phased out, I had a nose around on their website, they seemed to suggest
Alpha SP as replacement

https://thelubricantoracle.castrol.com/range/alpha-sp/industrial/en-JP

But looks like you'll have to choose between going up, or down on the
viscosity ... maybe contact them?
In an "ordinary" industrial gearbox, one viscosity grade either way will
not matter. With a thicker oil, it will warm up a shade and drop the
viscosity. Similarly a thinner oil will run a shade cooler.

I wouldn't apply this principle to a modern military helicopter where
there may be narrower margins.

The important thing is to chose an EP lubricant so Alpha SP should be
fine. No need to stick to BP if you have another EP gear oil of the
correct viscosity.


Many thanks guys - I was assuming the '430' meant the viscosity but didn't know.
I imagine that going up to 460 wouldn't make much difference. If I went down to 320 that would make it easier for the motor but would there be a danger then of oil getting passed the shaft seals?

I would not expect so; but (given its age) if you have shaft or seal
wear you might get a bit of weeping. FWIW if it were mine I would
probably start with the thinner oil. But as I said, I'd be happy with
more or less any 320 EP gear oil. Google gives you loads. I'm guessing a
litre might be plenty, Shell Omala for £13 would be a Rolls Royce solution.

On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 08:16:11 -0700 (PDT), Rob Graham
wrote:

If I went down to 320 that would make it easier for the motor but would there be a danger then of oil getting passed the shaft seals?

Any woodworking machine that's used tends to accumulate wood dust everywhere,
and that soaks up any oil just fine:-)

FWIW, this planer:

https://lueders-partner.com/assets/images/katalog/hulvershorn-1/203.jpg

has a gearbox in the bottom for the feed, with a filler cap and a little
dipstick. I was giving it a little TLC (for the first time in many years), and
checked the oil level, and it was bone dry. It had been run like that in a
production setting, for very many years...

I'd consider flushing the gearbox, i.e. running it with a cheap(er) oil and no
load, and then draining that once the crud has come loose, and only then fill
the "good" oil.


Thomas Prufer

On Saturday, August 15, 2020 at 8:19:06 AM UTC+1, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 08:16:11 -0700 (PDT), Rob Graham
wrote:
If I went down to 320 that would make it easier for the motor but would there be a danger then of oil getting passed the shaft seals?
Any woodworking machine that's used tends to accumulate wood dust everywhere,
and that soaks up any oil just fine:-)

FWIW, this planer:

https://lueders-partner.com/assets/images/katalog/hulvershorn-1/203.jpg

has a gearbox in the bottom for the feed, with a filler cap and a little
dipstick. I was giving it a little TLC (for the first time in many years), and
checked the oil level, and it was bone dry. It had been run like that in a
production setting, for very many years...

I'd consider flushing the gearbox, i.e. running it with a cheap(er) oil and no
load, and then draining that once the crud has come loose, and only then fill
the "good" oil.


Thomas Prufer

This task has not progressed other than I have now got the motor and gearbox out of the planer/thicknesser casing. I was intrigued by a plated screw low down on the gearbox housing which was totally inaccessible when in the P/T, so unscrewed it to be met by much outflow of oil - quick, quick, back in again!!

I did appear this was the oil level marker, and that there might be a bit more oil than this level . I drained all the oil out and on a quick guess I reckon that the oil level should be about a quarter of a litre - I drained off 1 1/2 litre!! Slightly explained the lttle bit of leakage past the seal. So well maintained by 'just throw some oil into the filler on the top'!!

I got as far as getting this motor apart to find both star points (dual speed 2 pole / 4 pole motor) but am having an on-going CH boiler problem which needs instant addressing.