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pmcdw
 
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Default dishwasher

Hi,

My built-in General Domestic Appliances dishwasher (model BF50 B/W)
gets stuck on the heating phase of the program without the water
heating up. If I manually move the program forward then it seems to
work. So is it as obvious a problem as the heater. If so, what do I
need to do to repair including how do I gain access to the heater and
what would be the likely cost? Any help is appreciated.

cheers

pmcdw
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Terry
 
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"EricP" wrote in message
...
On 3 Sep 2004 09:38:55 -0700, (pmcdw)
wrote:

Hi,

My built-in General Domestic Appliances dishwasher (model BF50 B/W)
gets stuck on the heating phase of the program without the water
heating up. If I manually move the program forward then it seems to
work. So is it as obvious a problem as the heater. If so, what do I
need to do to repair including how do I gain access to the heater and
what would be the likely cost? Any help is appreciated.

cheers

pmcdw


Does it have a clock type programme dial like a washing machine?
ie a knob that goes around clicking each part of the programme on and
that you set the programme up with?

If so, the thing seems to be sticking and you could have a look at it
and see if the cams are working properly.

Just an idea.


Not familiar with the product but suggest;
If the timer, itself, switches on the water heater it might be that those
timer contacts carrying a fairly heavy current to the heater have become
defective? Then, depending on the circuitry some machines will not proceed
any further through their washing cycle until the water has reached, or is
at, a set temperature. So the thing acts like "No water" or "water too cool"
and just stops and sits there? Depends on the logic and circuitry of the
machine. The heater itself may be OK, but electricity not reaching it for
some reason?
If however the timer just stops or jams at that point in the cycle and by
moving it manually water heats and everything else works OK, it may be a
timer problem. See if there is a circuit inside which may include a diagram
of which cam on the timer controls each function. There may likely be a set
of cam contacts that allow the timer to run until it is at end of cycle and
then stop itself. If these contacts were dirty/corroded or the timer cams
worn the timer might stop rotating at that point? Most timers are basically
driven by a little electric clock motor?
Recently we had a "no fill" dish washer problem and it was due to corroded
contacts of the timer switch itself and also to a defective/intermittent
microswitch float switch. The very simple logic of ours meant that the
machine does not check whether the water has gone in or not and it just
carried (dumbly) on through the whole cycle without any water at all! I have
thought about modifying it, although since we've had virtually no problems
for about 20 years it probably isn't worth while!


  #4   Report Post  
pmw
 
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The program clock had a circuit diagram next to it with 60 settings detailed
inluding a pretty good description of each of the clock settings. THe
machine operates normally but as soon as the clock advances to a heating
setting (no. 12 on the dial) then the machine just continues cycling with no
heating. However if I manually advance the program to no 13. the machines
functions ok until the next heating phase and just hangs there. In other
words it fills with water and drains fine but at a heating stage it just
hangs. Any clues????

thanks for your interest

pmcdw

"Terry" wrote in message
...

"EricP" wrote in message
...
On 3 Sep 2004 09:38:55 -0700, (pmcdw)
wrote:

Hi,

My built-in General Domestic Appliances dishwasher (model BF50 B/W)
gets stuck on the heating phase of the program without the water
heating up. If I manually move the program forward then it seems to
work. So is it as obvious a problem as the heater. If so, what do I
need to do to repair including how do I gain access to the heater and
what would be the likely cost? Any help is appreciated.

cheers

pmcdw


Does it have a clock type programme dial like a washing machine?
ie a knob that goes around clicking each part of the programme on and
that you set the programme up with?

If so, the thing seems to be sticking and you could have a look at it
and see if the cams are working properly.

Just an idea.


Not familiar with the product but suggest;
If the timer, itself, switches on the water heater it might be that those
timer contacts carrying a fairly heavy current to the heater have become
defective? Then, depending on the circuitry some machines will not proceed
any further through their washing cycle until the water has reached, or is
at, a set temperature. So the thing acts like "No water" or "water too

cool"
and just stops and sits there? Depends on the logic and circuitry of the
machine. The heater itself may be OK, but electricity not reaching it for
some reason?
If however the timer just stops or jams at that point in the cycle and by
moving it manually water heats and everything else works OK, it may be a
timer problem. See if there is a circuit inside which may include a

diagram
of which cam on the timer controls each function. There may likely be a

set
of cam contacts that allow the timer to run until it is at end of cycle

and
then stop itself. If these contacts were dirty/corroded or the timer cams
worn the timer might stop rotating at that point? Most timers are

basically
driven by a little electric clock motor?
Recently we had a "no fill" dish washer problem and it was due to corroded
contacts of the timer switch itself and also to a defective/intermittent
microswitch float switch. The very simple logic of ours meant that the
machine does not check whether the water has gone in or not and it just
carried (dumbly) on through the whole cycle without any water at all! I

have
thought about modifying it, although since we've had virtually no problems
for about 20 years it probably isn't worth while!




  #5   Report Post  
N. Thornton
 
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Default

"pmw" wrote in message ...
The program clock had a circuit diagram next to it with 60 settings detailed
inluding a pretty good description of each of the clock settings. THe
machine operates normally but as soon as the clock advances to a heating
setting (no. 12 on the dial) then the machine just continues cycling with no
heating. However if I manually advance the program to no 13. the machines
functions ok until the next heating phase and just hangs there. In other
words it fills with water and drains fine but at a heating stage it just
hangs. Any clues????

thanks for your interest

pmcdw


simple, I'd see if theres power reaching the heater element. But if
you dont know that much, I'd hesitate to recommend it, you could fry
yourself good and proper, then you might try and sue me, so dont do
it.

NT


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pmw
 
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I guess I don't even know that much. Is this machine worth calling out
someone to fix it or should I spend £250-300 on a n ew one?

cheers
pmcdw



"N. Thornton" wrote in message
om...
"pmw" wrote in message

...
The program clock had a circuit diagram next to it with 60 settings

detailed
inluding a pretty good description of each of the clock settings. THe
machine operates normally but as soon as the clock advances to a heating
setting (no. 12 on the dial) then the machine just continues cycling

with no
heating. However if I manually advance the program to no 13. the

machines
functions ok until the next heating phase and just hangs there. In other
words it fills with water and drains fine but at a heating stage it just
hangs. Any clues????

thanks for your interest

pmcdw


simple, I'd see if theres power reaching the heater element. But if
you dont know that much, I'd hesitate to recommend it, you could fry
yourself good and proper, then you might try and sue me, so dont do
it.

NT



  #7   Report Post  
N. Thornton
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"pmw" wrote in message ...
I guess I don't even know that much. Is this machine worth calling out
someone to fix it or should I spend £250-300 on a n ew one?

cheers
pmcdw


I'd make a few calls and ask for quotes. If its just a heating element
its a straightforward job.
  #8   Report Post  
Terry
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"pmw" wrote in message
...
The program clock had a circuit diagram next to it with 60 settings

detailed
inluding a pretty good description of each of the clock settings. THe
machine operates normally but as soon as the clock advances to a heating
setting (no. 12 on the dial) then the machine just continues cycling with

no
heating. However if I manually advance the program to no 13. the machines
functions ok until the next heating phase and just hangs there. In other
words it fills with water and drains fine but at a heating stage it just
hangs. Any clues????

thanks for your interest

pmcdw



Paul: With that description I suspect you may be getting close to the
'logic' of what is NOT happening.

Again not familiar with the product and I'm not in the UK.

So will suggest this; something 'else' may be happening in another circuit,
that becomes or is involved at and or between 12 and 13?

For example is the logic of the machine such that it will not advance
further in the overall cycle if it senses that water is not present i.e. is
there say, a water level switch that is not functioning correctly so the
machine just says, even though water may have actually flowed in, "Aha, no
water; so I won't proceed further".
OR:
Is it a function of how hot the water is; i.e. the water flows in but
because it senses some problem in the heating/temperature of the water due
to another sensor or thermostat machine says "Hey; water is too cold. I must
stop until it is warm enough". And then it never does heat up due some fault
in that water heating circuit.

That fault, as you asked originally, could include an open circuit heating
element. With electricity off you could remove the wire at one end of the
heater and measure the heater itself with a test Ohmmeter, you should get a
reading of something around a few hundred ohms (I'm not familiar with the
exact value) based on an assumption that element is around 500 watts?

However before hauling the machine out or apart you could (WITH POWER
COMPLETELY OFF AT THE CIRCUIT BREAKER) feel carefully around the water
heating element, if accessible. If it is 'crusty' or seems to have burst
slightly at some point it may be open and most likely be faulty. Since they
are normally immersed in water such a fault may not be as evident as when
the element in a cooking oven which gets red hot, goes faulty.
Cheers.


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