Regards..How much should I pay for a wired alarm system 5 movement detectors
2 door switches outdoor siren and strobe plus dummy box and indoor siren ?
any ideas of cost or suggestions ? Thank you E


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Regards..How much should I pay for a wired alarm system 5 movement detect=
ors
2 door switches outdoor siren and strobe plus dummy box and indoor siren =
?
any ideas of cost or suggestions ? Thank you E

If you want to DIY it...

PIRs are dirt cheap (=A35-=A310 each max for a standard detector), panels=
=20
will probably set you back about =A335, and I didn`t think anyone actually=
=20
bothered with door switches any more !

As for fitting a dummy box, considering the time spent up a ladder=20
fitting the damn thing, you might as well spend the extra =A312 and get a=
=20
real one !

Try checking out the prices here (watch the wrap) :

http://www.tlc-
direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Alarm_Index/Alarm_Panels_and_Systems/index.html

They`re probably easy enough for a DIY install in most circumstances=20
too...

--=20
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--- My new email address has "ngspamtrap" & @btinternet.com in it ;-) ---

Also consider not putting the alarm on your house insurance:
o Discounts are often small - and a great get-out clause for insurers
o Installation & Maintenance - insurers often require approved on both

Texecom are a common brand and quite good.
Watch choice of PIRs if you have pets - and take care with cables,
route them carefully and finding a staple through one spoils your day.

One big benefit of them is their fire/smoke capability:
o Kitchen - don't fit smoke, fit a heat-detector
---- particularly if anyone has a habit of unattended barbecues
o Hall - smoke detector outside bedroom area
---- benefit is 12V powered off the alarm & battery backup

The Panic alarm is handy, site carefully re main bedroom/hall.

Better to use PIRs than window contacts, although if you get one with
an LCD display you can program it to tell you which window you left
open. That's useful for forgotten larder or utility room windows, and
when you can't figure out what Zone 7 really is or such like :-)

Fitting a larger battery if you live in the country is a good idea, since
power tends to be more variable - and avoid fridge/other power circuits.

Every wired device you add means more cable - although some systems
use a chip to help minimise cabling, many systems exist. Well worth
adding an alarm if only for the fire/smoke protection, re security it is
not going to stop a determined thief - it simply moves them on to the
next victim who hasn't installed one (or of course doesn't arm the thing).

Re nighttime security, it seems having a separate bedroom keypad for
the night-alarm enablement makes people use it more often v forgetting.
That comes down to personal preference and who is last to bed etc :-)

DIY isn't difficult, but under floors don't feed them thro the same hole
in joists as power cables (yet I bet the majority are) and don't put them
where floorboard nails or flexing can damage them. That latter point is
a common cause of nuisance "24/7 security loop" tripping years later.

LCD ones can be easier for other familly members to set, as they can be
programmed to give useful messages instead of like programming a VCR.
Don't power the unit off an RCD protected circuit (someone takes out
a security light & waits for the often years old alarm battery to run flat).
Lighting is as much a part of security as the alarm of course, without a
recourse to 500W helicopter search lights burning cats fur off at 50ft.
--
DB.

Also consider not putting the alarm on your house insurance:
o Discounts are often small - and a great get-out clause for insurers
o Installation & Maintenance - insurers often require approved on both

Both good points !

If the alarm ever failed, they`d try to wriggle out of paying if you had=20
it declared.

Watch choice of PIRs if you have pets - and take care with cables,
route them carefully and finding a staple through one spoils your day.

AFAIK the "pet" PIRs just don`t scan as low in the room, so may miss=20
considerable gaps in coverage, so positioning may be more critical.

I have to admit I did once put a staple through someones alarm while=20
running a phone extension for them... I was expecting a call for weeks=20
afterwards :-}

The Panic alarm is handy, site carefully re main bedroom/hall.

And dirt cheap... wow they`re almost a fiver now - the last ones I bought=
=20
(cased in metal) were about =A33.50 !

LCD ones can be easier for other familly members to set, as they can be
programmed to give useful messages instead of like programming a VCR.

Basic panels like the Optima are easy enough to program for basic use=20
despite no fancy display - from memory they`re something like this...

to activate : code SET
to omit a zone : code OMIT zone SET
to deactivate : code

As long as you have a list of zones stuck near the panel you`re laughing

--=20
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I don't think I could do it [Aged] How much do you think a professional
would charge to do the job. Thanks E


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"Ed" wrote in message
...
I don't think I could do it [Aged] How much do you think a professional
would charge to do the job. Thanks E

Why don't you phone some and ask? Also ask your local Police crime
prevention officer. They'll give advice of a much higher quality than most
of the dick heads here.

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 01:47:25 +0100, Colin Wilson
wrote:

Also consider not putting the alarm on your house insurance:
o Discounts are often small - and a great get-out clause for insurers
o Installation & Maintenance - insurers often require approved on both

Both good points !

If the alarm ever failed, they`d try to wriggle out of paying if you had
it declared.

You can actually pay for an add on to some insurance policies. This
covers you even in the event that you forgot to set the alarm.

It is certainly available on some commercial insurance policies. Has
anyone come across it in residential policies?

If you want ultimate protection fit smokecloak. Not cheap though.

Smokecloak is a unit that is secured to the wall near the ceiling. It
looks like a wall mounted hi-fi speaker.

If the alarm is activated then the unit releases a dense fog into the
room. The fog is similar to the "smoke" used in smoke generation
machines in nightclubs. (The unit can be topped up again and again).

The only difference is that the fog generated by this unit spreads
rapidly, is more dense and hangs in the air for much longer.

The unit will fill the entire room in seconds. Visibility drops to
zero. You can't see anything. The system will keep topping the fog up
should any escape through doors or windows.

The police love the system. Our local police said that they were
called to a break-in at a school that was fitted with the same system.

The 3 lads that got into the building could not find their way back
out. When the police turned up the lads were sitting on the floor.
When one of the police officers climbed through the broken window he
nearly stepped on one of the intruders. Apparently, they were sitting
about 6 feet from the window but could not find their way out.

Graham

" Smokecloak is a unit that is secured to the wall near the ceiling. It
looks like a wall mounted hi-fi speaker.

If the alarm is activated then the unit releases a dense fog into the
room. The fog is similar to the "smoke" used in smoke generation
machines in nightclubs. (The unit can be topped up again and again).


Well yes, what you say is correct but does not prevent break in as very few
would be deterred by a "Smokecloak installed" notice That's assuming that
they can read.

Always liked the South African car hi-jack deterrent. Concealed
flame-thrower fitted underneath the car and activated by the driver if
threatened. Legal in SA as well.Wonder if British gas are thinking of
adapting it for the house market.




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In message , Colin
Wilson wrote
Also consider not putting the alarm on your house insurance:
o Discounts are often small - and a great get-out clause for insurers
o Installation & Maintenance - insurers often require approved on both

Both good points !

If the alarm ever failed, they`d try to wriggle out of paying if you had
it declared.

Watch choice of PIRs if you have pets - and take care with cables,
route them carefully and finding a staple through one spoils your day.

Be careful with placing a PIR in a hallway. If it is facing your front
door a the postman puts a large cold package through your letterbox into
your centrally heated hall the sensor will detect it

My sensor is now above the front door pointing the other way and angled
to miss anything landing on the door mat

--
Alan

Be careful with placing a PIR in a hallway. If it is facing your front
door a the postman puts a large cold package through your letterbox into
your centrally heated hall the sensor will detect it

********! Utter ********.

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 11:22:18 +0100, Alan
strung together this:

Be careful with placing a PIR in a hallway.

Well, you're not meant to position PIRs facing sources of sunlight,
like outer doors and windows in any room.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 01:47:25 +0100, Colin Wilson wrote:

Also consider not putting the alarm on your house insurance:
o Discounts are often small - and a great get-out clause for insurers
o Installation & Maintenance - insurers often require approved on both

Both good points !

If the alarm ever failed, they`d try to wriggle out of paying if you had
it declared.

The other point about being approved is that your alarm is fitted in the
same way as hundreds of others, so light fingred fred might learn how they
are fitted and find some way to avoid it. If you fit it yourself, he wont
know what you have done.

Dave

--

Some people use windows, others have a life.

The other point about being approved is that your alarm is fitted in the
same way as hundreds of others, so light fingred fred might learn how they
are fitted and find some way to avoid it. If you fit it yourself, he wont
know what you have done.

Oh dear, that old chestnut. Oh Please!

AFAIK the "pet" PIRs just don`t scan as low in the room, so may miss
considerable gaps in coverage, so positioning may be more critical.

Not the case these days. Pet PIR's are now programmed and are no longer
simply a single plane detector.

And dirt cheap... wow they`re almost a fiver now - the last ones I bought
(cased in metal) were about £3.50 !

Adn you expect quality for £3.50 do you?

Basic panels like the Optima are easy enough to program for basic use
despite no fancy display - from memory they`re something like this...

to activate : code SET
to omit a zone : code OMIT zone SET
to deactivate : code

Zzzzzzzz,zzz,zzzzz


As long as you have a list of zones stuck near the panel you`re laughing

Why? Will the list be funny? I've never laughed at a zone list. There again
I have an iD system so I don't need a zone list !

Not the case these days. Pet PIR's are now programmed and are no longer
simply a single plane detector.

And dirt cheap... wow they`re almost a fiver now - the last ones I bought
(cased in metal) were about £3.50 !

Adn you expect quality for £3.50 do you?

I would go for dual tech. Say around £35/£40 each. Also fit as few
PIR's/detectors as possible - only leads to false alarms.

Best to use contacts for the home - cheap, simple to fit, reliable and can
be concealed in door frames/window frames.

Door contact for initial entry/final exit door. Remote keypad in hall
Dual tech in the hallway not activated by initial entry and contacts on
downstairs doors/windows.Remote keypad on upstairs landing (if house)

Sorted











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On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 01:47:25 +0100, Colin Wilson
strung together this:

to activate : code SET
to omit a zone : code OMIT zone SET
to deactivate : code

Not actually.

to activate : code _or_ SET

Typing code SET will arm the system within 3 secs so that before you
get to the door the entry alarm starts but you don't realise so just
after you've got out the door and locked it the alarm goes off. (Just
one of the mysterious 'faults' that took ages to find!)
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 23:48:57 GMT, "Dorothy Bradbury"
wrote:


One big benefit of them is their fire/smoke capability:
o Kitchen - don't fit smoke, fit a heat-detector
---- particularly if anyone has a habit of unattended barbecues
o Hall - smoke detector outside bedroom area
---- benefit is 12V powered off the alarm & battery backup

My parents had a burglar alarm fitted that included a smoke detector.

The smoke detector was a conventional device and situated in the
hallway cose to the kitchen. The whole street knew when dinner was
ready!

The Panic alarm is handy, site carefully re main bedroom/hall.

We had a panic button fitted in the hallway. The only problem was my
little nephew could reach the button and as a result he kept setting
it off. Oh, let's play with grandma's alarm system. Ahhhhh!

Graham

We had a panic button fitted in the hallway. The only problem was my
little nephew could reach the button and as a result he kept setting
it off. Oh, let's play with grandma's alarm system. Ahhhhh!

Ah! didumms

What a load of ********.

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 13:48:04 +0100, PJ wrote:


What a load of ********.

What is?

What a load of ********.

What is?

The crap suggestions then the "experts" come up with here.

"Dorothy Bradbury" wrote
| The Panic alarm is handy, site carefully re main bedroom/hall.

A (concealed) panic button in the bathroom or loo can be a good idea. In a
hold-up or hostage situation the bathroom is usually the only place the
occupants will be allowed to go to unaccompanied, especially if it's an
internal room, and often it's also the only room that can be locked from
inside, forming a place of refuge. Silent alarms should preferably be used
if there is a real risk of hostage situation to avoid retaliation.

Of course, these irritating precautions wouldn't be necessary if Barratt et
al built proper homes with ramparts, portcullis and moat.

Owain

Owain wrote:
"Dorothy Bradbury" wrote
| The Panic alarm is handy, site carefully re main bedroom/hall.

A (concealed) panic button in the bathroom or loo can be a good idea. In a
hold-up or hostage situation the bathroom is usually the only place the
occupants will be allowed to go to unaccompanied, especially if it's an
internal room, and often it's also the only room that can be locked from
inside, forming a place of refuge. Silent alarms should preferably be used
if there is a real risk of hostage situation to avoid retaliation.

Of course, these irritating precautions wouldn't be necessary if Barratt et
al built proper homes with ramparts, portcullis and moat.

And while we're on the subject, I want roof fittings for cauldrons of
boiling lead.
That should really discourage salesmen, especially combined with the spiked
heads of the last few.

If you want to DIY it...

PIRs are dirt cheap (£5-£10 each max for a standard detector), panels
will probably set you back about £35, and I didn`t think anyone actually
bothered with door switches any more !

£5 for a PIR... it ****e then. Hoiw many false alarms don't you want!

As for fitting a dummy box, considering the time spent up a ladder
fitting the damn thing, you might as well spend the extra £12 and get a
real one !

Plus the wiring, time, etc.

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 13:46:34 +0100, "PJ"
wrote:


£5 for a PIR... it ****e then. Hoiw many false alarms don't you want!

I didn't realise IMM had gone into the security business, when did
this happen?

--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 23:35:30 +0100, Colin Wilson
strung together this:

I didn`t think anyone actually
bothered with door switches any more !

Yes they do, gives you better entry\exit options and means internal
PIR's can be immediate zones rather than timed.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

Anything from £100 pounds up to around £1500 depending if you want ****e or
a top notch high security jobbie.

Sensibly though if you pay less than £350 it's probably crap or badly
installed or both.


"Ed" wrote in message
...
Regards..How much should I pay for a wired alarm system 5 movement
detectors
2 door switches outdoor siren and strobe plus dummy box and indoor siren ?
any ideas of cost or suggestions ? Thank you E


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On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 22:49:44 +0100, "Ed" strung
together this:

Regards..How much should I pay for a wired alarm system 5 movement detectors
2 door switches outdoor siren and strobe plus dummy box and indoor siren ?
any ideas of cost or suggestions ? Thank you E

Reasonably, around the £5-600 mark. You can get one fitted cheaper,
but I wouldn't recommend shopping on price when it comes to alarms.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

"Ed" wrote in message ...
Regards..How much should I pay for a wired alarm system 5 movement detectors
2 door switches outdoor siren and strobe plus dummy box and indoor siren ?
any ideas of cost or suggestions ? Thank you E


In London estimates from installers will be about £600 to £1200. The
higher normally being from the famous names (ADT etc). They will also
include monitoring as part of the price which you will have to pay for
seperately so even those original prices are subsidised to a degree
because of the money they make from monitoring contracts.

To buy the stuff yourself you're looking at around £150.

In London estimates from installers will be about £600 to £1200. The
higher normally being from the famous names (ADT etc). They will also
include monitoring as part of the price which you will have to pay for
seperately so even those original prices are subsidised to a degree
because of the money they make from monitoring contracts.

To buy the stuff yourself you're looking at around £150.

£150 should just about get you a half decent control panel and keypad.