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  #1   Report Post  
Kalico
 
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Default Adhesive for GRP

Anyone know if gap filling adhesives such as Gripfill and Pink Grip
can be used on fibreglass?

If not, what can be?

Thanks
Rob

  #2   Report Post  
Grunff
 
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Steve Firth wrote:

The usual gap filling ahdesive used on GRP is epoxy filled with glass
microballoons.


Most GRP is styrene, not epoxy. If you are filling styrene based GRP,
you really need to use styrene based filler - otherwise adhesion isn't
great.

The majority of car body fillers are styrene based, and so work well on GRP.


--
Grunff
  #3   Report Post  
Peter Parry
 
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On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 12:21:24 +0100, Kalico wrote:


If not, what can be?


Polyester resin - car body filler, you need to abrade the existing
fibreglass surface first and if you use a coating of polyester resin
& hardener and allow it to semi harden before filling with polyester
filler you will achieve stronger results.

--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/
  #4   Report Post  
Grunff
 
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Steve Firth wrote:

Most GRP is styrene,



Polyster.


Nit picking - styrene monomer which polymerises to polyester. Plenty of
free styrene left over.


No, that's not true. Polyester resin doesn't adhere as well as epoxy to
cured polyester. Epoxy will always provide a good bond, *provided* that
you clean away the moul release agents from the surface. Roughen and
swab with acetone before attempting a repair.


Hmm, gotta say that has not been my experience, but I've only dabbled,
so I'm prepared to take your word for it.


--
Grunff
  #5   Report Post  
Kalico
 
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On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 13:36:26 +0100, Peter Parry
wrote:

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 12:21:24 +0100, Kalico wrote:


If not, what can be?


Polyester resin - car body filler, you need to abrade the existing
fibreglass surface first and if you use a coating of polyester resin
& hardener and allow it to semi harden before filling with polyester
filler you will achieve stronger results.

Yikes! Lots of very technical answers.

I am less concerned with the strength of bond, since it is not for
anything critical.

More that I would hate to apply something which would then dissolve a
hole into the bottom of my boat!

Thanks for all advice - I really appreciate it. Hell, there is
certainly some good knowledge on this group.

Rob



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The Natural Philosopher
 
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Kalico wrote:

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 13:36:26 +0100, Peter Parry
wrote:


On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 12:21:24 +0100, Kalico wrote:



If not, what can be?


Polyester resin - car body filler, you need to abrade the existing
fibreglass surface first and if you use a coating of polyester resin
& hardener and allow it to semi harden before filling with polyester
filler you will achieve stronger results.


Yikes! Lots of very technical answers.

I am less concerned with the strength of bond, since it is not for
anything critical.

More that I would hate to apply something which would then dissolve a
hole into the bottom of my boat!


Oh - Boat? Normal prtactice would be to file degrease and roughen as
described elsewhere, and then use glass cloth with probably polyester
rather than epoxy to fill any structurally weak areas, and epoxy and
microballoons or indeed car body filler to get everything nice and smooth.



Thanks for all advice - I really appreciate it. Hell, there is
certainly some good knowledge on this group.

Rob


  #7   Report Post  
Pete C
 
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On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 23:21:16 +0100, Kalico wrote:

Yikes! Lots of very technical answers.

I am less concerned with the strength of bond, since it is not for
anything critical.

More that I would hate to apply something which would then dissolve a
hole into the bottom of my boat!

Thanks for all advice - I really appreciate it. Hell, there is
certainly some good knowledge on this group.


Hi,

Have a look at:

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=lang_en&ie=UTF-8&q=group%3Arec.boats.building+epoxy+polyester
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=lang_en&ie=UTF-8&q=group%3Arec.boats.building+fibreglass+repair&b tnG=Search

Epoxy gives a much better bond than polyester BTW.

cheers,
Pete.
  #8   Report Post  
:::Jerry::::
 
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"Pete C" wrote in message
...
snip

Epoxy gives a much better bond than polyester BTW.


Little confused here, the OP was asking about 'gap filling' not bonding, the
original reply from 'Grunff' that suggested Auto body filler would be OK is
correct / if / it is gap filling that is required, but if the OP wants to
bond then Epoxy should be used.


  #9   Report Post  
Kalico
 
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On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 11:07:17 +0100, ":::Jerry::::"
wrote:


"Pete C" wrote in message
.. .
snip

Epoxy gives a much better bond than polyester BTW.


Little confused here, the OP was asking about 'gap filling' not bonding, the
original reply from 'Grunff' that suggested Auto body filler would be OK is
correct / if / it is gap filling that is required, but if the OP wants to
bond then Epoxy should be used.

All I need to do is glue a wooden block to the inside of the hull.

Attached to the block will be a metal eye to tie a bungee cord to that
will be tied at the other end to a locker lid. Just to stop it
falling overboard really so does not need to be that strong.

The block has previously been glued to the hull by someone else but
has come off.

My first reaction was to bang some Gripfill in there as it is cheap
and would accommodate the slightly concave hull shape to the flat
block. I just didn't want to damage the hull.

Also, do you know if Gripfill (or similar) will bond to stainless
steel?

Thanks for all your advice.
Rob

  #10   Report Post  
Pete C
 
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On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 12:52:50 +0100, Kalico wrote:

All I need to do is glue a wooden block to the inside of the hull.

Attached to the block will be a metal eye to tie a bungee cord to that
will be tied at the other end to a locker lid. Just to stop it
falling overboard really so does not need to be that strong.

The block has previously been glued to the hull by someone else but
has come off.

My first reaction was to bang some Gripfill in there as it is cheap
and would accommodate the slightly concave hull shape to the flat
block. I just didn't want to damage the hull.

Also, do you know if Gripfill (or similar) will bond to stainless
steel?


Hi,

Try asking the makers of Gripfill whether it will do, I wouldn't mind
hearing what they say. Whatever you use you'd need to grind off any
paint or left over glue back to bare fibreglass to get a good key.

To make epoxy gap filling just thicken it with something, see archives
of rec.boats.building for some ideas. Will this be indoors out of the
weather or not?

cheers,
Pete.


  #11   Report Post  
Kalico
 
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On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 18:13:51 +0100, Pete C
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 12:52:50 +0100, Kalico wrote:

All I need to do is glue a wooden block to the inside of the hull.

Attached to the block will be a metal eye to tie a bungee cord to that
will be tied at the other end to a locker lid. Just to stop it
falling overboard really so does not need to be that strong.

The block has previously been glued to the hull by someone else but
has come off.

My first reaction was to bang some Gripfill in there as it is cheap
and would accommodate the slightly concave hull shape to the flat
block. I just didn't want to damage the hull.

Also, do you know if Gripfill (or similar) will bond to stainless
steel?


Hi,

Try asking the makers of Gripfill whether it will do, I wouldn't mind
hearing what they say. Whatever you use you'd need to grind off any
paint or left over glue back to bare fibreglass to get a good key.

To make epoxy gap filling just thicken it with something, see archives
of rec.boats.building for some ideas. Will this be indoors out of the
weather or not?

cheers,
Pete.


Well, it may catch the odd bit of water but otherwise will not be
getting wet too much.

I shall ask Evode.


Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply
  #12   Report Post  
:::Jerry::::
 
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"Kalico" wrote in message
...

snip

Is there any reason why you can't laminate this mount onto the hull, in
other words, use GRP mesh and resin in the same way as the boat will have
been built IYSWIM ? It wont be as quick as using a bonding glue but it will
be stronger if done correctly.


  #13   Report Post  
Kalico
 
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On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 22:24:15 +0100, ":::Jerry::::"
wrote:


"Kalico" wrote in message
.. .

snip

Is there any reason why you can't laminate this mount onto the hull, in
other words, use GRP mesh and resin in the same way as the boat will have
been built IYSWIM ? It wont be as quick as using a bonding glue but it will
be stronger if done correctly.

The only reason that Gripfil sprung to mind is that I have used it
extensively before with excellent results whereas I have absolutely no
experience with glassfibre.

Rob


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  #14   Report Post  
Pete C
 
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On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 22:01:15 +0100, Kalico wrote:

Well, it may catch the odd bit of water but otherwise will not be
getting wet too much.

I shall ask Evode.


Hi,

Had a quick search and found a list of materials and a data sheet on
the makers web site:

http://www.laybond.net/gripfill/features.htm
http://www.laybond.net/data/laybond/gripfill_ds.pdf

Would probably work OK, but if you can paint or coat the wood and the
area round it sometime that would be better.

cheers,
Pete.
  #15   Report Post  
Kalico
 
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On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 13:06:38 +0100, Pete C
wrote:

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 22:01:15 +0100, Kalico wrote:

Well, it may catch the odd bit of water but otherwise will not be
getting wet too much.

I shall ask Evode.


Hi,

Had a quick search and found a list of materials and a data sheet on
the makers web site:

http://www.laybond.net/gripfill/features.htm
http://www.laybond.net/data/laybond/gripfill_ds.pdf

Would probably work OK, but if you can paint or coat the wood and the
area round it sometime that would be better.

cheers,
Pete.


That's excellent - thanks very much Pete.

Rob


Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply
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