I am currently in the process of building 2 small sheds in the garden.
I would like these to have an electric supply, 1 with a switch for a
lightbulb, and the other for both a lightbulb switch and an electrical
socket.

How would i go about getting a supply to these sheds from the house
permanently and not having to use an extension lead?

On Thu, 19 Aug 2004 07:18:00 -0700, Shabs wrote:

I am currently in the process of building 2 small sheds in the garden.
I would like these to have an electric supply, 1 with a switch for a
lightbulb, and the other for both a lightbulb switch and an electrical
socket.

How would i go about getting a supply to these sheds from the house
permanently and not having to use an extension lead?

There have been numerous threads on this in here over the past 12 months.
Try Google, its all there.

Dave

--

Some people use windows, others have a life.

(Shabs) wrote in message . com...
I am currently in the process of building 2 small sheds in the garden.
I would like these to have an electric supply, 1 with a switch for a
lightbulb, and the other for both a lightbulb switch and an electrical
socket.

How would i go about getting a supply to these sheds from the house
permanently and not having to use an extension lead?


You will require a spare fuseway in the consumers unit and to run
whats known as a "submain" cable from the consumers unit to the 1st
new shed into a say 4 way consumer unit with a 30mA RCD and 2x 16a B
type breakers and a 6a B type breaker.
From the board in 1st shed run a submain to a 2way board in 2nd shed
thus making provision for both lighting and sockets.

The cable run from the house should be made in SWA cable which
requires some skill to fit the glands on each end as will connecting
up the submain into a spare way in the consumers unit.
Size of this cable depends on the lenght of run from the house and how
much current you will draw in both these sheds.
The SWA cable should be burred underground with warning tpae placed
over it.

If you are unsure about any of this work you will require a qualified
electrician. Although running the cable and wiring the circuits in the
sheds would be easy enough for you to carry out.

Jon.

On 19 Aug 2004 11:39:15 -0700, (John
Southern) strung together this:

You like to do things the hard way then!

You will require a spare fuseway in the consumers unit

For 2 lightbulbs and a socket a 13A spur off of the ring will suffice,
but a dedicated circuit is the ideal solution.

run
whats known as a "submain" cable from the consumers unit to the 1st
new shed into a say 4 way consumer unit with a 30mA RCD and 2x 16a B
type breakers and a 6a B type breaker.
From the board in 1st shed run a submain to a 2way board in 2nd shed
thus making provision for both lighting and sockets.

Or, easier still. Run the submain into a 2 way garage unit, (which
comes with RCD, 1x16A and 1x6A MCB), to the shed with the socket in.
Run the socket off of the 16A MCB and run the local lighting from the
6A MCB and run the remote sheds lighting via a 1.5mm SWA cable from
the 6A MCB.

To the OP - As for the technicalities of the actual supply and
earthing etc... Google for it on this group, there's loads.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

Lurch wrote in message . ..
On 19 Aug 2004 11:39:15 -0700, (John
Southern) strung together this:

You like to do things the hard way then!

You will require a spare fuseway in the consumers unit

For 2 lightbulbs and a socket a 13A spur off of the ring will suffice,
but a dedicated circuit is the ideal solution.

I have seen 1.5mm2 cable spured of an FCU for a chentral heating
boiler which then ran outside throung an airbrick to a flex connector
branching off into 2 separtate 1.5mm2 cable one was bured under the
turf and ran to the pond the other ran about 25mtrs to the garage.
Inside the garage the wiring was in 4 core flex with 2 6ft
flourescents and a couple of twin sockets powering a freezer. There
was no RCD protection and overcurrrent protechtion was by BS3036
fuses,was all fine until the gardener got his spade out one day.....

On a more recent job i found that "you can switch the garage light
from inside the house" cos they spured directly off a twin socket on
the ring in 2.5mm2 cable into a 1way lightswitch splitting the phase
across it then the cable ran to the garage under the patio.
There was also a 2.5mm2 ran from a 15a Type 1 MCB running to the
garage into a rather old Wylex board which feed one socket.

Jon.

On 20 Aug 2004 04:55:34 -0700, (John
Southern) strung together this:

I have seen 1.5mm2 cable spured of an FCU for a chentral heating
boiler which then ran outside throung an airbrick to a flex connector
branching off into 2 separtate 1.5mm2 cable

Ooh, is this a game. I'll have a go.
When I was an apprentice, (in 1996), we did a job for an old guy who
used to be a plumber. The garage wiring was a bit ropey in flex but
the greenhouse was pure art. All the cabling was run in an extremely
tidy route of 15mm copper, all soldered joints too. The cable, was in
fact... bell wire. Been there for 20 years before we turned up
apparently!
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

I'm also messing around in my shed, and that's the way mine is set up, ie.
2-way garage unit, 16A and 6A. From there, 1.5 to a junction box, then
straight into a fluorescent. In other words, I'm using the fuse as a light
switch, which is plain silly. To fit a switch, do I have to come off the
junction box, or is it permissible to just interrupt the feed and run the
light through the switch ?

In article , Shabs
writes
I am currently in the process of building 2 small sheds in the garden.
I would like these to have an electric supply, 1 with a switch for a
lightbulb, and the other for both a lightbulb switch and an electrical
socket.

How would i go about getting a supply to these sheds from the house
permanently and not having to use an extension lead?

If it's of any interest the way I feed my single shed is as follows.

From the CU near the front of the house I internally ran a 2.5mm T+E
from a 16A MCB to a porch at the back where I fitted a metal-clad switch
(just because I had it - it really only acts as a junction box, but I
suppose it would act as an isolator in an emergency). From there I have
an SWA feed directly buried under a crazy-paving path to the shed a few
feet away, where I have a a 2-way switch-fuse (a micro consumer-unit!)
with 5 and 15A fuses. The 5A feeds a 65W fluourescent luminaire and an
outside 60W globe-type fitting via an outside switch. The 15A feeds a
twin 13A socket and an external single splashproof socket (for
lawnmower/strimmer/shredder) for which I have an RCD but have yet to get
a round tuit to fit it.

The twin 13A socket is used variously for a metal lathe, an arc welder,
an angle grinder, a pond pump & so on (but not all at the same time!).

Oh - the 5A circuit also feeds a 25V transformer for an 8W (or so) home-
molished lamp to illuminate the step-up from the path to the grassy bit.

--
Frank Erskine

On Fri, 20 Aug 2004 17:16:14 GMT, "tim.hinchliffe"
strung together this:

To fit a switch, do I have to come off the
junction box, or is it permissible to just interrupt the feed and run the
light through the switch ?

Either or, it's up to you.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

Lurch wrote in message . ..
On 20 Aug 2004 04:55:34 -0700, (John
Southern) strung together this:

I have seen 1.5mm2 cable spured of an FCU for a chentral heating
boiler which then ran outside throung an airbrick to a flex connector
branching off into 2 separtate 1.5mm2 cable

Ooh, is this a game. I'll have a go.
When I was an apprentice, (in 1996), we did a job for an old guy who
used to be a plumber. The garage wiring was a bit ropey in flex but
the greenhouse was pure art. All the cabling was run in an extremely
tidy route of 15mm copper, all soldered joints too. The cable, was in
fact... bell wire. Been there for 20 years before we turned up
apparently!

Not a game as such but i always enjoy sharing experiences of jobs.

Jon.