Dear All

We had a kitchen fitted about five months ago. Nice solid block beech
worktops, lovely range-style cooker. So far so good. However, we
recently noticed that the worktops are expanding and have seized the
cooker in a vice-like grip and are trying to crush it to death. The
front of the cooker has buckled a little, and we can see from the
sealant between the wall and the worktop that the worktop must have
expanded by about 0.5cm on both sides. The cooker was a nice snug
fit...

I presume this is due to the worktop expanding owing to moisture from
the kitchen rather than the summer heat. Question: What do I do???

Ideas welcomed.

Thanks

David

"Alex" wrote in message


"David" wrote in message
om...
we
recently noticed that the worktops are expanding and have seized the
cooker in a vice-like grip and are trying to crush it to death. The
front of the cooker has buckled a little, and we can see from the
sealant between the wall and the worktop that the worktop must have
expanded by about 0.5cm on both sides. The cooker was a nice snug
fit...

You should be able to fit a worktop without having to leave a whopping great
1cm gap everywhere to allow for expansion.

While it is likely that the wood would eventually expand front to back
by 1/4" if you had running water condensing on it all the time, it is
unlikely to be moving side to side by very much.

How is the thing supported and what are your walls made of?

If the support is collapsing and/or the walls are flexing it would show
up like that in a few weeks perhaps, by a few months certainly. If it
was expanding the sealant would be being crushed into the wall, no?


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"David" wrote in message
om...
Dear All

We had a kitchen fitted about five months ago. Nice solid block beech
worktops, lovely range-style cooker. So far so good. However, we
recently noticed that the worktops are expanding and have seized the
cooker in a vice-like grip and are trying to crush it to death. The
front of the cooker has buckled a little, and we can see from the
sealant between the wall and the worktop that the worktop must have
expanded by about 0.5cm on both sides. The cooker was a nice snug
fit...

I presume this is due to the worktop expanding owing to moisture from
the kitchen rather than the summer heat. Question: What do I do???

Ideas welcomed.

Thanks

David

If it has actually bent your cooker inwards by 1cm, call back whoever fitted
the kitchen and be prepared for some 'negotiations'. Having said this, I've
fitted a few beech block tops, and haven't had any expansion problems like
you mention.

You should be able to fit a worktop without having to leave a whopping great
1cm gap everywhere to allow for expansion.

Alex

On 10 Aug 2004 02:13:28 -0700, (David)
wrote:

Dear All

We had a kitchen fitted about five months ago. Nice solid block beech
worktops, lovely range-style cooker. So far so good. However, we
recently noticed that the worktops are expanding and have seized the
cooker in a vice-like grip and are trying to crush it to death. The
front of the cooker has buckled a little, and we can see from the
sealant between the wall and the worktop that the worktop must have
expanded by about 0.5cm on both sides. The cooker was a nice snug
fit...

I presume this is due to the worktop expanding owing to moisture from
the kitchen rather than the summer heat. Question: What do I do???

Ideas welcomed.

Thanks

David

I suggest you cntact a good solicitor, or at the very least get the
fitters back in to sort it out, for free.

Rick

David wrote:

Dear All

We had a kitchen fitted about five months ago. Nice solid block beech
worktops, lovely range-style cooker. So far so good. However, we
recently noticed that the worktops are expanding and have seized the
cooker in a vice-like grip and are trying to crush it to death. The
front of the cooker has buckled a little, and we can see from the
sealant between the wall and the worktop that the worktop must have
expanded by about 0.5cm on both sides. The cooker was a nice snug
fit...

I presume this is due to the worktop expanding owing to moisture from
the kitchen rather than the summer heat. Question: What do I do???


You probably assume wrong.

You should expect about 1% expansion from 'kiln dried/central heating in
winter' to 'summer humidity' across the grain - maybe up to 2% in this
exceptional weather.


Over 12" that's about .12 to .24 inches of expansion....one eigth to one
quarter of an inch....

Ideas welcomed.

Well, take th ecooker out, open up the holes by 3-5mm and use mastic to
fill the gap.


Thanks

David

Michael Mcneil wrote:

"Alex" wrote in message



"David" wrote in message
.com...

we
recently noticed that the worktops are expanding and have seized the
cooker in a vice-like grip and are trying to crush it to death. The
front of the cooker has buckled a little, and we can see from the
sealant between the wall and the worktop that the worktop must have
expanded by about 0.5cm on both sides. The cooker was a nice snug
fit...


You should be able to fit a worktop without having to leave a whopping great
1cm gap everywhere to allow for expansion.


While it is likely that the wood would eventually expand front to back
by 1/4" if you had running water condensing on it all the time, it is
unlikely to be moving side to side by very much.

Thts true enough. Expansion along the grain is only about 1% between
starated =green wood and fully dry. However even 0.1% on a 3 meter run
is what? 3mm?

Yiou wrae wrong about the front to back needing saturation though. Wood
movement is FAR higher than you seem to realise. I have seen sild
mahogany cut nearly across heartwood bow 15 degrees every winter, and be
flat again in the summer.


Sadluy I gave my book on wood prpperties and expansion rates to teh
master chippie who built my house as a present, so i can';t give you
specifc figures, but it surprsied me whn I did the calculations on my
house, and reckoned that from green to dry would shrink the house by
nearly 6 inches in height....with about half an inch movement
subsequently summer to winter...and thats mostly just the sole plates
and roof plates...

Wood needs a carpenter with experience to get it right. Beech block
surfaces are not melamine coated chipboard.

How is the thing supported and what are your walls made of?

If the support is collapsing and/or the walls are flexing it would show
up like that in a few weeks perhaps, by a few months certainly. If it
was expanding the sealant would be being crushed into the wall, no?

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Wood needs a carpenter with experience to get it right. Beech block
surfaces are not melamine coated chipboard.

Ah, if only...

--
Grunff