This is my current situation...but what are the regulations and where
do I find them? My current cooker socket has a 13amp plug incorporated
within it but I'm quite happy to sacrifice this if it will make the
situation safer.

Problem is, moving the cooker socket is going to take a sparky (not
me!) about 2hours minimum to chase out a new cavern in the wall,
recable and refit etc. The cooker is electric if this is any help.

Help much appreciated and definately needed

In message ,
(Neil) wrote:

This is my current situation...but what are the regulations and where
do I find them? My current cooker socket has a 13amp plug incorporated
within it but I'm quite happy to sacrifice this if it will make the
situation safer.

Problem is, moving the cooker socket is going to take a sparky (not
me!) about 2hours minimum to chase out a new cavern in the wall,
recable and refit etc. The cooker is electric if this is any help.

Help much appreciated and definately needed

On Site Guide p154

Cooker circuits in household or similar premises (excerpt)

....The control switch or cooker control unit should be placed within two
metres of the appliance, but not directly above it...

This is the only specific mention I can see in either the OSG or the
regulations. The only other requirement is for the cable and its
protective device to be correctly sized.

As for moving the cooker control unit, do you know which way the cable
from the unit runs? If so it may be a relatively simple matter to move
the unit "back" along the cable a bit until it is just outside the area
directly above the cooker. Even if the cable goes straight up it may be
possible to move the control unit up and across slightly, though you
must still be able to reach it!

Regarding the rest of the circuit, as a rule the protective device is 30 or
32A for an electric cooker though if you really need to, you can
probably get away with less by applying diversity after Table 1A in the
On Site Guide, p85. 6mm cable will carry 32A over 35m or so before
voltage drop becomes a problem so that is the size cable commonly used.
Higher currents or greater distances call for 10mm cable but these are
unusual.

Is that the kind of help you were after?

Hwyl!

Martin.

--
Martin Angove (it's Cornish for "Smith") - ARM/Digital SA110 RPC
See the Aber Valley -- http://www.tridwr.demon.co.uk/abervalley.html
.... I'm in shape ... round's a shape isn't it?

In message , Martin Angove
writes
In message ,
(Neil) wrote:

This is my current situation...but what are the regulations and where
do I find them? My current cooker socket has a 13amp plug incorporated
within it but I'm quite happy to sacrifice this if it will make the
situation safer.

Problem is, moving the cooker socket is going to take a sparky (not
me!) about 2hours minimum to chase out a new cavern in the wall,
recable and refit etc. The cooker is electric if this is any help.

Help much appreciated and definately needed

On Site Guide p154

Cooker circuits in household or similar premises (excerpt)

...The control switch or cooker control unit should be placed within two
metres of the appliance, but not directly above it...

This presumably means that it's OK to put a separate socket above the
cooker.




--
Bernard Peek

www.diversebooks.com: SF & Computing book reviews and more.....

In search of cognoscenti

"Neil" wrote in message
om...
This is my current situation...but what are the regulations and where
do I find them? My current cooker socket has a 13amp plug incorporated
within it but I'm quite happy to sacrifice this if it will make the
situation safer.

Problem is, moving the cooker socket is going to take a sparky (not
me!) about 2hours minimum to chase out a new cavern in the wall,
recable and refit etc. The cooker is electric if this is any help.

Help much appreciated and definately needed



This might be of some help:

http://www.diydata.com/planning/ring_main/ring_main.htm

Clicking on the links at the top will take you to the relevant bits you'll
need to know.


---
BigWallop

http://basecuritysystems.no-ip.com

Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.498 / Virus Database: 297 - Release Date: 08/07/03

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
Problem is, moving the cooker socket is going to take a sparky
(not me!) about 2hours minimum to chase out a new cavern in the
wall, recable and refit etc. The cooker is electric if this is
any help.

Your main problem in moving it is that the supply cable might run
vertically
underneath the wall, which requires a wall mounted accessory to be
installed
as an indication to decorators not to drill. If you move the switch, there
might not be such an accessory.

If your cooker outlet plate (as opposed to the switch) is in line with the
cable, this won't be a problem and you can run a short horizontal run to
the
repositioned switch. The job is very simple, really. The biggest job is
retiling/plastering. 2 hours seems a reasonable time estimate. You should
insist on a "Minor Works Certificate" which you should keep for any future
conveyancing.

What's a "Minor Works Certificate"? I personally can't understand the need
for any certificate about moving a switch when coming to sell a house...
unless of course, you have fully up-to-spec wiring in the house, and need
the certificate to prove continued compliance. However, I suspect that the
majority of people don't have 100% in spec wiring, haven't had their wiring
checked in 10 years and therefore someone may still want a wiring check to
be done when buying and having a piece of paper saying the switch was moved
in properly is not going to be terribly useful.

D

What's a "Minor Works Certificate"? I personally can't
understand the need for any certificate about moving a
switch when coming to sell a house...

Well, it's free and hints that the electrician knows what he is doing,
rather than is about to appear on Rogue Traders. To fill the certificate in
properly, you have to do some basic safety checks, for example.

When present when selling the house it indicates that you took a cautious
attitude to electrical work, which may swing the deal if the people buying
include a panically paranoid type, of which there are many in the housing
market.

Christian.

In message ,
Bernard Peek wrote:

In message , Martin Angove
writes
In message ,
(Neil) wrote:

This is my current situation...but what are the regulations and where
do I find them? My current cooker socket has a 13amp plug incorporated
within it but I'm quite happy to sacrifice this if it will make the
situation safer.

Problem is, moving the cooker socket is going to take a sparky (not
me!) about 2hours minimum to chase out a new cavern in the wall,
recable and refit etc. The cooker is electric if this is any help.

Help much appreciated and definately needed

On Site Guide p154

Cooker circuits in household or similar premises (excerpt)

...The control switch or cooker control unit should be placed within two
metres of the appliance, but not directly above it...

This presumably means that it's OK to put a separate socket above the
cooker.

I can't see that it is specifically prohibited, but it is very silly for
the same reasons a cooker control point above the cooker is silly:
reaching across a possibly hot cooker / steaming cooking to switch
things off, and the risk of flex trailing too near something hot.

Hwyl!

M.

--
Martin Angove (it's Cornish for "Smith") - ARM/Digital SA110 RPC
See the Aber Valley -- http://www.tridwr.demon.co.uk/abervalley.html
.... I appreciate your not breathing while I smoke.

how do I join the new cables together? I understand that all
electrical joins require access (especially a cooker).

AIUI, crimped connections don't require subsequent access provision and may
be buried under the tiles/plaster.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:

how do I join the new cables together? I understand that all
electrical joins require access (especially a cooker).

AIUI, crimped connections don't require subsequent access provision and may
be buried under the tiles/plaster.

Christian.

Christian,

What consitutes a crimped connection that does not require access? I have a
double socket that must be removed before I install a floor-to-ceiling housing
for my ovens. I intend to lose the junction in the wall cavity but once the
housing is installed it will not be accessible. I had considered soldering
the junction.

Thanks

Richard