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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#41
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Torx masonry screws
In article ,
Bert Coules wrote: Dave Plowman wrote: I have a TV on a longish arm(s) in the kitchen. Allows it to be swivelled to use when cooking, or when eating at the other end of the room. The arms are long enough so the TV can be pivoted up against them - ie at right angles to the wall. That's very similar to what I'm planning. It is mounted using rawlbolts into plaster over brick. And the arm gets likely more use (movement) than many. That seems the best way forward for me too. Just for info, the TV is a 24" one, which would give an idea of the weight. But note my post about how it is actually mounted due to the fixings being close to a corner on the brick wall. -- *Broken pencils are pointless.* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#42
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Torx masonry screws
In article ,
newshound wrote: I've only owned three houses, the brickwork in the Victorian and Georgian ones could be very variable in places. Several different grades of brick used on the average Victorian house. And the inner layer ones the worst. -- *Who are these kids and why are they calling me Mom? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#43
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Torx masonry screws
We have a 55 and a 48 TV hung off our walls with the internal walls being the cinder type breeze block. All I used are decent nylon plugs and 6mm diam. hex head coach screws nothing has loosened and the brackets are as firm as the day they were attached despite the 48 TV regularly being swung out on its bifolding arms by as much as 400mm off the wall. I have used similar screws in concrete and stone and seen them used in brick and they are a solid fixing and the nice thing in concrete is they can be used close to the edge without breaking off bits. I am disinclined to use them on our breeze blocks as I suspect they would simply grind the hole sides into fine grit rather than make a thread. I will try it on some gash blocks and see how they fare sometime.
Richard |
#44
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Torx masonry screws
Many thanks to everyone for the latest replies. There are too many to reply
to individually, so I hope this blanket response will suffice. I'm grateful for all the advice regarding various types of fixings. I've used Rawl-type bolts elsewhere on the same wall so (assuming a certain amount of consistency) they should be secure for this job, especially given that the TV is a small one (screen size 21") though it is still an appreciable weight. It might not after all be necessary to space the baseplate as far from the wall as I first planned (50mm): some 20mm will suffice. This unfortunately presumably means that I can't use the neat idea of bolting the timber spacer to the wall and then screwing the baseplate to the wood: I suspect that the available thickness wouldn't be enough for a secure grip (though please correct me if I'm wrong). Possibly then the best course is to use Rawl-type bolts to attach the baseplate directly to the wall through clearance holes in the timber. Which means I have to make damn sure that the holes in the wall are not only at the right spacing but also dead vertical: any divergence will be amplified horribly when the TV is extended at the end of the hinged arms. |
#45
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Torx masonry screws
"williamwright" wrote in message ... On 11/02/2020 01:00, Rod Speed wrote: You should consider doing so. Use a step drill. When I was employed fixing TV wall brackets in hospitals it was normal to drill out the little holes in the backplate. I don't know why the put some small holes in. Presumably because the smaller screws work fine in some situations and its a lot easier to drill out the hole if you need a bigger one than to use a very big screw when you dont need a rawl bolt. Washers. It if was that easy they'd have the big holes and washers. |
#46
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Lonely Auto-contradicting Psychotic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL
On Wed, 12 Feb 2020 05:23:14 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again: Washers. It if was that easy they'd have the big holes and washers. YOU'd better worry about that big hole in your head, senile idiot! -- Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 85-year-old trolling senile cretin from Oz: https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/ |
#47
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Torx masonry screws
On Monday, 10 February 2020 20:03:19 UTC, Chris J Dixon wrote:
polygonum_on_google wrote: That is so day-before-yeasterday. This is where it is at: https://www.cnbc.com/video/2019/01/0...tv-at-ces.html That's fine, as long as you get a really good warranty. Plant amazing Acers. Especially as: LG's futuristic new TV rolls up into a box with the press of a button and it might cost as much as $60,000 |
#48
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Torx masonry screws
In article ,
polygonum_on_google wrote: On Monday, 10 February 2020 20:03:19 UTC, Chris J Dixon wrote: polygonum_on_google wrote: That is so day-before-yeasterday. This is where it is at: https://www.cnbc.com/video/2019/01/0...tv-at-ces.html That's fine, as long as you get a really good warranty. Plant amazing Acers. Especially as: LG's futuristic new TV rolls up into a box with the press of a button and it might cost as much as $60,000 Given opening and closing a car boot seems to break the wires to it over time, wonder what the life of that is going to be. ;-) -- *To be intoxicated is to feel sophisticated, but not be able to say it. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#49
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Torx masonry screws
The job is now (almost) done. Annoyingly, one of the three Rawlbolts isn't
biting: I suspect that the hole in the masonry ended up just slightly too large to prevent the fitting from rotating. I can't withdraw the loose fitting to investigate without removing the baseplate and I can't do that without completely removing the two successful bolts; and I'm reluctant to do that in case doing so weakens the hold of their fittings. Perhaps just two of the three bolts will be enough... |
#50
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Torx masonry screws
On 11/02/2020 13:41, Andrew wrote:
On 11/02/2020 13:03, newshound wrote: On 11/02/2020 00:42, williamwright wrote: On 10/02/2020 13:36, Bert Coules wrote: I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster wall. The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even with a small TV the weight supported will be considerable.Β* Plus, the baseplate of the bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some 50mm, probably with a block of timber or similar. Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable?Β* I've never used them. The problem with advising you is that everything depends on the masonry, and it varies greatly. It all depends on the masonry. When approaching such a job I would always have a wide variety of fixings with me, and I'd decide which to use when I'd assessed the masonry. Bill +1. I've only owned three houses, the brickwork in the Victorian and Georgian ones could be very variable in places. And as for the current random stone rubble filled cottage! For larger fixings (e.g. I have a wall-mounted corner shelf unit for TV and audio) the very first job is to hunt for big solid bits of stone, then fit substantial horizontal battens (e.g. 50x38) to these, then build the rest around it. I have occasionally used lengths of 10 mm studding going in a foot or more (usually set in sand/cement because you can lose a whole cartridge of resin per hole). In a modern brick or blockwork house you should be luckier. 'Modern' blocks could well be solar blocks and those concrete screws will just tear out the edges of the hole. For these blocks, use long plastic plugs with parallel sides and use an HSS drill bit to make a clean hole, so that the plug is a snug fit. Do you mean frame fixings, which are normally hammered ito place, although the screws can be unscrewed. If it is lightweight blocks (normally pretty obvious because even wood bits will drill them) I'd be worried that rawlbolts could split them, especially if near an edge. |
#51
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Torx masonry screws
In article ,
Bert Coules wrote: The job is now (almost) done. Annoyingly, one of the three Rawlbolts isn't biting: I suspect that the hole in the masonry ended up just slightly too large to prevent the fitting from rotating. I can't withdraw the loose fitting to investigate without removing the baseplate and I can't do that without completely removing the two successful bolts; and I'm reluctant to do that in case doing so weakens the hold of their fittings. The rawlbolts which gripped should stay in place if well tightened first. A smear of oil on the treads and expanding mechanism can help - but not obviously on the outside of the unit. Perhaps just two of the three bolts will be enough... Hope your fingers are crossed. But if the rawlbolt pulls out of its hole enough to hit the plate it should then expand fully when tightened. Which will at least give some additional strength. -- *Never slap a man who's chewing tobacco * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#52
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Torx masonry screws
Dave Plowman wrote:
But if the rawlbolt pulls out of its hole enough to hit the plate it should then expand fully when tightened. Which will at least give some additional strength. I'll try that, thanks. Incidentally, in the absence of a torque wrench how aggressive should I be in tightening the bolts? Will I damage them or compromise their grip if I simply do them up as tightly as I can? |
#53
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Torx masonry screws
Well, hell and damnation and similar.
The TV is now hung, the holding, even with two-and-a-bit bolts rather than three, seems more than adequate, but... the hinged-arm support doesn't hold the set truly horizontal. In fact it holds it nothing like horizontal. Even with the hinge-adjustment bolts tightened almost to the point of locking the whole thing up solid, the set is still at an angle, both with the arms extended and even in the against-the-wall position. There's no way I can live with it like that, so it's back to the drawing board (or possibly the TV-stand-on-casters even though that will take up a lot more room than I'd like). Thanks to all for the thoughts and advice. |
#54
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Torx masonry screws
In article ,
Bert Coules wrote: Dave Plowman wrote: But if the rawlbolt pulls out of its hole enough to hit the plate it should then expand fully when tightened. Which will at least give some additional strength. I'll try that, thanks. Incidentally, in the absence of a torque wrench how aggressive should I be in tightening the bolts? Will I damage them or compromise their grip if I simply do them up as tightly as I can? Generally, if you use a ring spanner etc the varying lengths of those according to size tighten to about the right torque with a firm pull. Unlike a socket set where there is just one size for the ratchet etc drive and easy to over-tighten with the smaller sizes. I've not managed to break a rawlbolt using that technique. -- *Why is the man who invests all your money called a broker? * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#55
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Torx masonry screws
Dave Plowman wrote:
Generally, if you use a ring spanner etc the varying lengths of those according to size tighten to about the right torque with a firm pull. Thanks for that, Dave; very useful. |
#56
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Torx masonry screws
On 11/02/2020 13:34, Andrew wrote:
On 10/02/2020 15:13, newshound wrote: Personally I would put in high quality plastic plugs and something like 5 inch No 12 screws if fixing directly. Careful. There are some older properties with such thin party walls you might end up in your neighbours house :-) Not with a 50 mm standoff though. |
#57
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Torx masonry screws
On 12/02/2020 16:22, Bert Coules wrote:
The job is now (almost) done.Β* Annoyingly, one of the three Rawlbolts isn't biting: I suspect that the hole in the masonry ended up just slightly too large to prevent the fitting from rotating. I can't withdraw the loose fitting to investigate without removing the baseplate and I can't do that without completely removing the two successful bolts; and I'm reluctant to do that in case doing so weakens the hold of their fittings. Perhaps just two of the three bolts will be enough... If you've used say "red" rawlplugs - tap a "yellow" one into the rawlplug in the wall. That will jam the "red" one in place and allow the screw to grip. In a previous life I fitted curtain rails and pelmets for my ex-wife. That (not the ex-wife - so much!) could be a challenge as the curtains were heavy and often needed to support the weight of a cat/toddler hanging onto them. :-) -- Blow my nose to email me |
#58
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Torx masonry screws
"Kellerman" wrote:
If you've used say "red" rawlplugs - tap a "yellow" one into the rawlplug in the wall. That will jam the "red" one in place and allow the screw to grip. That's a nice tip, thanks. |
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