I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster wall.
The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even with a small
TV the weight supported will be considerable. Plus, the baseplate of the
bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some 50mm, probably with a
block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable? I've never used
them.

https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-...g-screw/p59092

Alternatively I could use conventional Rawl-type bolt fittings but would
need to replace the bolts with considerably longer ones if the design
allows; I've not found any which come with longer bolts as standard.

Many thanks.

In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster wall.
The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even with a small
TV the weight supported will be considerable. Plus, the baseplate of the
bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some 50mm, probably with a
block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable? I've never used
them.

https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-...g-screw/p59092

Alternatively I could use conventional Rawl-type bolt fittings but would
need to replace the bolts with considerably longer ones if the design
allows; I've not found any which come with longer bolts as standard.

Many thanks.

Screwfix have Rawlbolts with a fixture size of 75mm in M10. they also do
M12 with a 60mm fixture size.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 10/02/2020 13:36, Bert Coules wrote:
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster wall.
The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even with a
small TV the weight supported will be considerable.Â* Plus, the baseplate
of the bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some 50mm, probably
with a block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable?Â* I've never used
them.

https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-...g-screw/p59092

Alternatively I could use conventional Rawl-type bolt fittings but would
need to replace the bolts with considerably longer ones if the design
allows; I've not found any which come with longer bolts as standard.

Many thanks.



I have used them to hold in plastic window and door frames where there
really is not much load. The hole you drill first does have to be the
right size. In you case I am not sure what happens if the wall is breeze
block rather than brick.


--
Michael Chare

In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
Alternatively I could use conventional Rawl-type bolt fittings but would
need to replace the bolts with considerably longer ones if the design
allows; I've not found any which come with longer bolts as standard.

Not usually a problem to source longer bolts. They're hardly high tensile
types.

--
*Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

..



Wall mounted - so "yesterday"!

"charles" wrote:

Screwfix have Rawlbolts with a fixture size of 75mm in M10. they also do
M12 with a 60mm fixture size.

Thanks, but the baseplate holes are drilled for M6; I'd rather not open them
up as far as M10 or 12.

Michael Chare wrote:

I have used them to hold in plastic window and door frames where there
really is not much load.

Thanks. Similarly, I've seen them used for fence posts against an exterior
brick wall, where, again, there's much less load than there would be for my
extended TV arm.

Dave Plowman wrote:

Not usually a problem to source longer bolts. They're hardly high tensile
types.

Thanks: I've just found and ordered some online.

"John" wrote:

Wall mounted - so "yesterday"!

So what's "today"? If you can explain exactly how to make my TV hover
unsupported I'd be very grateful for the details.

In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
Michael Chare wrote:

I have used them to hold in plastic window and door frames where there
really is not much load.

Thanks. Similarly, I've seen them used for fence posts against an
exterior brick wall, where, again, there's much less load than there
would be for my extended TV arm.

I have a TV on a longish arm(s) in the kitchen. Allows it to be swivelled
to use when cooking, or when eating at the other end of the room. The arms
are long enough so the TV can be pivoted up against them - ie at right
angles to the wall.

It is mounted using rawlbolts into plaster over brick. And the arm gets
likely more use (movement) than many.

The load on fence posts in the recent winds might be a lot higher than
you'd guess. ;-)

--
*Do paediatricians play miniature golf on Wednesdays?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 10/02/2020 13:36, Bert Coules wrote:
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster wall.
The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even with a
small TV the weight supported will be considerable.Â* Plus, the baseplate
of the bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some 50mm, probably
with a block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable?Â* I've never used
them.

https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-...g-screw/p59092

Alternatively I could use conventional Rawl-type bolt fittings but would
need to replace the bolts with considerably longer ones if the design
allows; I've not found any which come with longer bolts as standard.

Many thanks.


Too short, if spaced out by 50 mm IMHO. Provided it is reasonably good
brick you might get away with not less than 150 mm. They are pretty
secure, but as you are aware a TV bracket can impose a significant
moment, and therefore a "pull-out" force. And the force isn't constant,
it varies every time you use the bracket.

Personally I would put in high quality plastic plugs and something like
5 inch No 12 screws if fixing directly. In fact, since you need a spacer
I would probably screw that securely to the wall, and simply screw the
bracket to the spacer. This has the advantage that if you "lose" one or
more screws to soggy mortar, or similar, you can put another screw
somewhere more secure. And also locate the bracket exactly where you
want it, and get it exactly upright.

In article ,
newshound wrote:
Too short, if spaced out by 50 mm IMHO. Provided it is reasonably good
brick you might get away with not less than 150 mm. They are pretty
secure, but as you are aware a TV bracket can impose a significant
moment, and therefore a "pull-out" force. And the force isn't constant,
it varies every time you use the bracket.

I had sort of that problem with the kitchen TV. The arm type bracket is
positioned near the edge of the chimney breast - too close to guarantee a
decent fixing to the brick. So I chased in a steel strip which is bolted
to the bricks further in, and the arm bolted to that. The steel strip is
tiled over, with tiles cut to fit around the arm mounting bracket.

--
*A computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me at kickboxing.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman wrote:

I have a TV on a longish arm(s) in the kitchen. Allows it to be swivelled
to use when cooking, or when eating at the other end of the room. The arms
are long enough so the TV can be pivoted up against them - ie at right
angles to the wall.

That's very similar to what I'm planning.

It is mounted using rawlbolts into plaster over brick. And the arm gets
likely more use (movement) than many.

That seems the best way forward for me too.

"newshound" wrote:

Personally I would put in high quality plastic plugs and something like
5 inch No 12 screws if fixing directly. In fact, since you need a spacer
I would probably screw that securely to the wall, and simply screw the
bracket to the spacer. This has the advantage that if you "lose" one or
more screws to soggy mortar, or similar, you can put another screw
somewhere more secure. And also locate the bracket exactly where you
want it, and get it exactly upright.

That strikes me as a very good idea; thanks.

Bert Coules wrote:

"John" wrote:

Wall mounted - so "yesterday"!

So what's "today"?

https://www.samsung.com/global/tv/bl...e-beautifully/

;-)

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
@ChrisJDixon1

Plant amazing Acers.

Chris J Dixon linked to:

https://www.samsung.com/global/tv/bl...e-beautifully/

On an easel! So obvious once it's pointed out. But there are wall mounts
there too, so I'm not totally out of touch with today's trends (though I'd
think more than twice about siting my expensive new telly directly above a
fire).

Bert Coules wrote:

Chris J Dixon linked to:

https://www.samsung.com/global/tv/bl...e-beautifully/

On an easel! So obvious once it's pointed out. But there are wall mounts
there too, so I'm not totally out of touch with today's trends (though I'd
think more than twice about siting my expensive new telly directly above a
fire).

I have seen it suggested that the easel mount would go well with
those TVs that are set up to look like an artwork when you are
not watching them (I don't mean in the "if a tree falls in a
forest" way). No idea how much power they use.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
@ChrisJDixon1

Plant amazing Acers.

"Bert Coules" wrote in message
...
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster wall.
The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even with a
small TV the weight supported will be considerable. Plus, the baseplate
of the bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some 50mm, probably
with a block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable?

Really depends on the bricks.

I've never used them.

https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-...g-screw/p59092

Alternatively I could use conventional Rawl-type bolt fittings but would
need to replace the bolts with considerably longer ones if the design
allows; I've not found any which come with longer bolts as standard.

On Monday, 10 February 2020 17:13:13 UTC, Chris J Dixon wrote:
Bert Coules wrote:

Chris J Dixon linked to:

https://www.samsung.com/global/tv/bl...e-beautifully/

On an easel! So obvious once it's pointed out. But there are wall mounts
there too, so I'm not totally out of touch with today's trends (though I'd
think more than twice about siting my expensive new telly directly above a
fire).

I have seen it suggested that the easel mount would go well with
those TVs that are set up to look like an artwork when you are
not watching them (I don't mean in the "if a tree falls in a
forest" way). No idea how much power they use.

Chris

That is so day-before-yeasterday. This is where it is at:

https://www.cnbc.com/video/2019/01/0...tv-at-ces.html

"polygonum_on_google" wrote in message
...
On Monday, 10 February 2020 17:13:13 UTC, Chris J Dixon wrote:
Bert Coules wrote:

Chris J Dixon linked to:

https://www.samsung.com/global/tv/bl...e-beautifully/

On an easel! So obvious once it's pointed out. But there are wall
mounts
there too, so I'm not totally out of touch with today's trends (though
I'd
think more than twice about siting my expensive new telly directly above
a
fire).

I have seen it suggested that the easel mount would go well with
those TVs that are set up to look like an artwork when you are
not watching them (I don't mean in the "if a tree falls in a
forest" way). No idea how much power they use.

Chris

That is so day-before-yeasterday. This is where it is at:

https://www.cnbc.com/video/2019/01/0...tv-at-ces.html

Hopeless for his situation where he wants to rotate it thru something like
180 degrees horizontally.

On Tue, 11 Feb 2020 05:52:07 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH senile asshole's troll****

05:52??? Did you "sleep in" today, you sleepless senile pest? LOL Are you
sick or what? LMAO

--
The Natural Philosopher about senile Rot:
"Rod speed is not a Brexiteer. He is an Australian troll and arsehole."
Message-ID:

On Tue, 11 Feb 2020 06:36:42 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Hopeless for his situation

What could be more hopeless than you, you sleepless clinically insane senile
cretin?

--
Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 85-year-old trolling senile
cretin from Oz:
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/

polygonum_on_google wrote:

On Monday, 10 February 2020 17:13:13 UTC, Chris J Dixon wrote:

I have seen it suggested that the easel mount would go well with
those TVs that are set up to look like an artwork when you are
not watching them (I don't mean in the "if a tree falls in a
forest" way). No idea how much power they use.

That is so day-before-yeasterday. This is where it is at:

https://www.cnbc.com/video/2019/01/0...tv-at-ces.html

That's fine, as long as you get a really good warranty.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
@ChrisJDixon1

Plant amazing Acers.

No matter what the head type, never had much luck with those, I have to say.

Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Bert Coules" wrote in message
...
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster wall.
The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even with a small
TV the weight supported will be considerable. Plus, the baseplate of the
bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some 50mm, probably with a
block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable? I've never used
them.

https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-...g-screw/p59092

Alternatively I could use conventional Rawl-type bolt fittings but would
need to replace the bolts with considerably longer ones if the design
allows; I've not found any which come with longer bolts as standard.

Many thanks.

Yes indeed the wall has to crack or nearly fall over to pull those out!
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"charles" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster wall.
The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even with a
small
TV the weight supported will be considerable. Plus, the baseplate of the
bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some 50mm, probably with a
block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable? I've never used
them.

https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-...g-screw/p59092

Alternatively I could use conventional Rawl-type bolt fittings but would
need to replace the bolts with considerably longer ones if the design
allows; I've not found any which come with longer bolts as standard.

Many thanks.

Screwfix have Rawlbolts with a fixture size of 75mm in M10. they also do
M12 with a 60mm fixture size.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 10/02/2020 14:33, Bert Coules wrote:
"charles" wrote:

Screwfix have Rawlbolts with a fixture size of 75mm in M10. they also do
M12 with a 60mm fixture size.

Thanks, but the baseplate holes are drilled for M6; I'd rather not open
them up as far as M10 or 12.

You should consider doing so. Use a step drill. When I was employed
fixing TV wall brackets in hospitals it was normal to drill out the
little holes in the backplate. I don't know why the put some small holes in.

Bill

On 10/02/2020 16:28, Chris J Dixon wrote:
Bert Coules wrote:

"John" wrote:

Wall mounted - so "yesterday"!

So what's "today"?

https://www.samsung.com/global/tv/bl...e-beautifully/

Ohh arr! ****ing dog would soon have that over.

Bill

On 10/02/2020 13:36, Bert Coules wrote:
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster wall.

Don't mount it too high. That's the usual mistake.

Bill

On 10/02/2020 13:36, Bert Coules wrote:
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster wall.
The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even with a
small TV the weight supported will be considerable.Â* Plus, the baseplate
of the bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some 50mm, probably
with a block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable?Â* I've never used
them.

The problem with advising you is that everything depends on the masonry,
and it varies greatly. It all depends on the masonry. When approaching
such a job I would always have a wide variety of fixings with me, and
I'd decide which to use when I'd assessed the masonry.

Bill

On 10/02/2020 19:13, polygonum_on_google wrote:


https://www.cnbc.com/video/2019/01/0...tv-at-ces.html


When it's down ****heads and kids will spill liquids into the crack.

Bill

On 10/02/2020 15:13, newshound wrote:

Personally I would put in high quality plastic plugs and something like
5 inch No 12 screws if fixing directly. In fact, since you need a spacer
I would probably screw that securely to the wall, and simply screw the
bracket to the spacer. This has the advantage that if you "lose" one or
more screws to soggy mortar, or similar, you can put another screw
somewhere more secure. And also locate the bracket exactly where you
want it, and get it exactly upright.

What's more you can temporarily put the baseplate on the spacer and
drill right through it, then put bolts through from the back (run epoxy
along them before insertion) and then when the spacer is fixed to the
wall put the baseplate on it and hold with nuts. Dremmel the thread
flush with the nuts.

Bill

"williamwright" wrote in message
...
On 10/02/2020 14:33, Bert Coules wrote:
"charles" wrote:

Screwfix have Rawlbolts with a fixture size of 75mm in M10. they also do
M12 with a 60mm fixture size.

Thanks, but the baseplate holes are drilled for M6; I'd rather not open
them up as far as M10 or 12.

You should consider doing so. Use a step drill. When I was employed fixing
TV wall brackets in hospitals it was normal to drill out the little holes
in the backplate. I don't know why the put some small holes in.

Presumably because the smaller screws work fine
in some situations and its a lot easier to drill out
the hole if you need a bigger one than to use
a very big screw when you dont need a rawl bolt.

On Tue, 11 Feb 2020 12:00:32 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Presumably because

IOW, you don't know! So shut your senile gob, you "all-knowing" senile
asshole!

--
Website (from 2007) dedicated to the 85-year-old trolling senile
cretin from Oz:
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/r...d-faq.2973853/

On 11/02/2020 01:00, Rod Speed wrote:

You should consider doing so. Use a step drill. When I was employed
fixing TV wall brackets in hospitals it was normal to drill out the
little holes in the backplate. I don't know why the put some small
holes in.

Presumably because the smaller screws work fine
in some situations and its a lot easier to drill out
the hole if you need a bigger one than to use
a very big screw when you dont need a rawl bolt.

Washers.

Bill

On 11/02/2020 00:49, williamwright wrote:
On 10/02/2020 15:13, newshound wrote:

Personally I would put in high quality plastic plugs and something
like 5 inch No 12 screws if fixing directly. In fact, since you need a
spacer I would probably screw that securely to the wall, and simply
screw the bracket to the spacer. This has the advantage that if you
"lose" one or more screws to soggy mortar, or similar, you can put
another screw somewhere more secure. And also locate the bracket
exactly where you want it, and get it exactly upright.

What's more you can temporarily put the baseplate on the spacer and
drill right through it, then put bolts through from the back (run epoxy
along them before insertion) and then when the spacer is fixed to the
wall put the baseplate on it and hold with nuts. Dremmel the thread
flush with the nuts.

Bill

Agreed, if you actually need bolts (as you might with a slimmer spacer).
But if you have 50 mm of solid wood, or even three layers of 18 mm
plywood (which I would glue together) you can probably fit the bracket
directly using 2 inch No 12's (or the metric equivalent).

On 11/02/2020 00:42, williamwright wrote:
On 10/02/2020 13:36, Bert Coules wrote:
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster
wall. The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even
with a small TV the weight supported will be considerable.Â* Plus, the
baseplate of the bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some
50mm, probably with a block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable?Â* I've never
used them.

The problem with advising you is that everything depends on the masonry,
and it varies greatly. It all depends on the masonry. When approaching
such a job I would always have a wide variety of fixings with me, and
I'd decide which to use when I'd assessed the masonry.

Bill

+1.

I've only owned three houses, the brickwork in the Victorian and
Georgian ones could be very variable in places. And as for the current
random stone rubble filled cottage! For larger fixings (e.g. I have a
wall-mounted corner shelf unit for TV and audio) the very first job is
to hunt for big solid bits of stone, then fit substantial horizontal
battens (e.g. 50x38) to these, then build the rest around it. I have
occasionally used lengths of 10 mm studding going in a foot or more
(usually set in sand/cement because you can lose a whole cartridge of
resin per hole).

In a modern brick or blockwork house you should be luckier.

On 10/02/2020 14:33, Bert Coules wrote:
"charles" wrote:

Screwfix have Rawlbolts with a fixture size of 75mm in M10. they also do
M12 with a 60mm fixture size.

Thanks, but the baseplate holes are drilled for M6; I'd rather not open
them up as far as M10 or 12.

Bert,

those bolts really need to be screwed into a hole drilled with a 6.5mm
drill (*), and one where there was no lateral wobbling of the drill bit
or you will end up with much larger hole.

The screw bolt needs to cut its own thread into the brick as you
screw it in.

As long as you are drilling into nice strong bricks, or blocks or
concrete then these screws are fine, but remember you must drill a
hole at least half and inch longer than the depth of the screw because
as it cuts its thread, the fragments of brick will be pushed ahead
of the drill bit.

(*) Read the instruction on the box, or check the manufacturers
website.

On 10/02/2020 15:13, newshound wrote:
Personally I would put in high quality plastic plugs and something like
5 inch No 12 screws if fixing directly.

Careful. There are some older properties with such thin party walls
you might end up in your neighbours house :-)

They are a bad choice for soft bricks, or solar blocks, but
ok provided you use the correct size drill and make a hole
deeper than needed to collect the swarf as the screw cuts its
own thread.

If I was the OP I would use expanding bolts for the top fixings
because they will carry huge loads.

Andrew

On 10/02/2020 20:42, Brian Gaff (Sofa 2) wrote:
No matter what the head type, never had much luck with those, I have to say.

Brian

On 11/02/2020 13:03, newshound wrote:
On 11/02/2020 00:42, williamwright wrote:
On 10/02/2020 13:36, Bert Coules wrote:
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster
wall. The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even
with a small TV the weight supported will be considerable.Â* Plus, the
baseplate of the bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by some
50mm, probably with a block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable?Â* I've never
used them.

The problem with advising you is that everything depends on the
masonry, and it varies greatly. It all depends on the masonry. When
approaching such a job I would always have a wide variety of fixings
with me, and I'd decide which to use when I'd assessed the masonry.

Bill

+1.

I've only owned three houses, the brickwork in the Victorian and
Georgian ones could be very variable in places. And as for the current
random stone rubble filled cottage! For larger fixings (e.g. I have a
wall-mounted corner shelf unit for TV and audio) the very first job is
to hunt for big solid bits of stone, then fit substantial horizontal
battens (e.g. 50x38) to these, then build the rest around it. I have
occasionally used lengths of 10 mm studding going in a foot or more
(usually set in sand/cement because you can lose a whole cartridge of
resin per hole).

In a modern brick or blockwork house you should be luckier.

'Modern' blocks could well be solar blocks and those concrete screws
will just tear out the edges of the hole. For these blocks, use
long plastic plugs with parallel sides and use an HSS drill bit to
make a clean hole, so that the plug is a snug fit.