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Default Torx masonry screws

In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:


I have a TV on a longish arm(s) in the kitchen. Allows it to be swivelled
to use when cooking, or when eating at the other end of the room. The arms
are long enough so the TV can be pivoted up against them - ie at right
angles to the wall.


That's very similar to what I'm planning.


It is mounted using rawlbolts into plaster over brick. And the arm gets
likely more use (movement) than many.


That seems the best way forward for me too.


Just for info, the TV is a 24" one, which would give an idea of the
weight. But note my post about how it is actually mounted due to the
fixings being close to a corner on the brick wall.

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In article ,
newshound wrote:
I've only owned three houses, the brickwork in the Victorian and
Georgian ones could be very variable in places.


Several different grades of brick used on the average Victorian house. And
the inner layer ones the worst.

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We have a 55€ and a 48€ TV hung off our walls with the internal walls being the cinder type €œbreeze€ block. All I used are decent nylon plugs and 6mm diam. hex head coach screws nothing has loosened and the brackets are as firm as the day they were attached despite the 48€ TV regularly being swung out on its bifolding arms by as much as 400mm off the wall. I have used similar screws in concrete and stone and seen them used in brick and they are a solid fixing and the nice thing in concrete is they can be used close to the edge without breaking off bits. I am disinclined to use them on our €œbreeze€ blocks as I suspect they would simply grind the hole sides into fine grit rather than make a thread. I will try it on some gash blocks and see how they fare sometime.

Richard
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Many thanks to everyone for the latest replies. There are too many to reply
to individually, so I hope this blanket response will suffice.

I'm grateful for all the advice regarding various types of fixings. I've
used Rawl-type bolts elsewhere on the same wall so (assuming a certain
amount of consistency) they should be secure for this job, especially given
that the TV is a small one (screen size 21") though it is still an
appreciable weight.

It might not after all be necessary to space the baseplate as far from the
wall as I first planned (50mm): some 20mm will suffice. This unfortunately
presumably means that I can't use the neat idea of bolting the timber spacer
to the wall and then screwing the baseplate to the wood: I suspect that the
available thickness wouldn't be enough for a secure grip (though please
correct me if I'm wrong).

Possibly then the best course is to use Rawl-type bolts to attach the
baseplate directly to the wall through clearance holes in the timber. Which
means I have to make damn sure that the holes in the wall are not only at
the right spacing but also dead vertical: any divergence will be amplified
horribly when the TV is extended at the end of the hinged arms.



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"williamwright" wrote in message
...
On 11/02/2020 01:00, Rod Speed wrote:

You should consider doing so. Use a step drill. When I was employed
fixing TV wall brackets in hospitals it was normal to drill out the
little holes in the backplate. I don't know why the put some small holes
in.


Presumably because the smaller screws work fine
in some situations and its a lot easier to drill out
the hole if you need a bigger one than to use
a very big screw when you dont need a rawl bolt.


Washers.


It if was that easy they'd have the big holes and washers.



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Default Lonely Auto-contradicting Psychotic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL

On Wed, 12 Feb 2020 05:23:14 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


Washers.


It if was that easy they'd have the big holes and washers.


YOU'd better worry about that big hole in your head, senile idiot!

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On Monday, 10 February 2020 20:03:19 UTC, Chris J Dixon wrote:
polygonum_on_google wrote:


That is so day-before-yeasterday. This is where it is at:

https://www.cnbc.com/video/2019/01/0...tv-at-ces.html


That's fine, as long as you get a really good warranty.


Plant amazing Acers.

Especially as:

LG's futuristic new TV rolls up into a box with the press of a button €” and it might cost as much as $60,000
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In article ,
polygonum_on_google wrote:
On Monday, 10 February 2020 20:03:19 UTC, Chris J Dixon wrote:
polygonum_on_google wrote:


That is so day-before-yeasterday. This is where it is at:

https://www.cnbc.com/video/2019/01/0...tv-at-ces.html


That's fine, as long as you get a really good warranty.


Plant amazing Acers.

Especially as:


LG's futuristic new TV rolls up into a box with the press of a button ˜
and it might cost as much as $60,000


Given opening and closing a car boot seems to break the wires to it over
time, wonder what the life of that is going to be. ;-)

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The job is now (almost) done. Annoyingly, one of the three Rawlbolts isn't
biting: I suspect that the hole in the masonry ended up just slightly too
large to prevent the fitting from rotating.

I can't withdraw the loose fitting to investigate without removing the
baseplate and I can't do that without completely removing the two successful
bolts; and I'm reluctant to do that in case doing so weakens the hold of
their fittings.

Perhaps just two of the three bolts will be enough...

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On 11/02/2020 13:41, Andrew wrote:
On 11/02/2020 13:03, newshound wrote:
On 11/02/2020 00:42, williamwright wrote:
On 10/02/2020 13:36, Bert Coules wrote:
I have to attach a TV bracket to a conventional brick-with-plaster
wall. The bracket is a hinged extending design which means that even
with a small TV the weight supported will be considerable.Β* Plus,
the baseplate of the bracket has to be spaced out from the wall by
some 50mm, probably with a block of timber or similar.

Would these Torx-head frame fixing screws be suitable?Β* I've never
used them.

The problem with advising you is that everything depends on the
masonry, and it varies greatly. It all depends on the masonry. When
approaching such a job I would always have a wide variety of fixings
with me, and I'd decide which to use when I'd assessed the masonry.

Bill


+1.

I've only owned three houses, the brickwork in the Victorian and
Georgian ones could be very variable in places. And as for the current
random stone rubble filled cottage! For larger fixings (e.g. I have a
wall-mounted corner shelf unit for TV and audio) the very first job is
to hunt for big solid bits of stone, then fit substantial horizontal
battens (e.g. 50x38) to these, then build the rest around it. I have
occasionally used lengths of 10 mm studding going in a foot or more
(usually set in sand/cement because you can lose a whole cartridge of
resin per hole).

In a modern brick or blockwork house you should be luckier.


'Modern' blocks could well be solar blocks and those concrete screws
will just tear out the edges of the hole. For these blocks, use
long plastic plugs with parallel sides and use an HSS drill bit to
make a clean hole, so that the plug is a snug fit.


Do you mean frame fixings, which are normally hammered ito place,
although the screws can be unscrewed. If it is lightweight blocks
(normally pretty obvious because even wood bits will drill them) I'd be
worried that rawlbolts could split them, especially if near an edge.


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In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
The job is now (almost) done. Annoyingly, one of the three Rawlbolts
isn't biting: I suspect that the hole in the masonry ended up just
slightly too large to prevent the fitting from rotating.



I can't withdraw the loose fitting to investigate without removing the
baseplate and I can't do that without completely removing the two
successful bolts; and I'm reluctant to do that in case doing so weakens
the hold of their fittings.


The rawlbolts which gripped should stay in place if well tightened first.
A smear of oil on the treads and expanding mechanism can help - but not
obviously on the outside of the unit.

Perhaps just two of the three bolts will be enough...


Hope your fingers are crossed.

But if the rawlbolt pulls out of its hole enough to hit the plate it
should then expand fully when tightened. Which will at least give some
additional strength.

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Dave Plowman wrote:

But if the rawlbolt pulls out of its hole enough to hit the plate it
should then expand fully when tightened. Which will at least give some
additional strength.


I'll try that, thanks.

Incidentally, in the absence of a torque wrench how aggressive should I be
in tightening the bolts? Will I damage them or compromise their grip if I
simply do them up as tightly as I can?


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Well, hell and damnation and similar.

The TV is now hung, the holding, even with two-and-a-bit bolts rather than
three, seems more than adequate, but...

the hinged-arm support doesn't hold the set truly horizontal.

In fact it holds it nothing like horizontal. Even with the hinge-adjustment
bolts tightened almost to the point of locking the whole thing up solid, the
set is still at an angle, both with the arms extended and even in the
against-the-wall position. There's no way I can live with it like that, so
it's back to the drawing board (or possibly the TV-stand-on-casters even
though that will take up a lot more room than I'd like).

Thanks to all for the thoughts and advice.

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In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:


But if the rawlbolt pulls out of its hole enough to hit the plate it
should then expand fully when tightened. Which will at least give some
additional strength.


I'll try that, thanks.


Incidentally, in the absence of a torque wrench how aggressive should I
be in tightening the bolts? Will I damage them or compromise their
grip if I simply do them up as tightly as I can?


Generally, if you use a ring spanner etc the varying lengths of those
according to size tighten to about the right torque with a firm pull.
Unlike a socket set where there is just one size for the ratchet etc drive
and easy to over-tighten with the smaller sizes.

I've not managed to break a rawlbolt using that technique.

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Dave Plowman wrote:

Generally, if you use a ring spanner etc the varying lengths of those
according to size tighten to about the right torque with a firm pull.


Thanks for that, Dave; very useful.


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On 11/02/2020 13:34, Andrew wrote:
On 10/02/2020 15:13, newshound wrote:
Personally I would put in high quality plastic plugs and something
like 5 inch No 12 screws if fixing directly.


Careful. There are some older properties with such thin party walls
you might end up in your neighbours house :-)


Not with a 50 mm standoff though.
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On 12/02/2020 16:22, Bert Coules wrote:
The job is now (almost) done.Β* Annoyingly, one of the three Rawlbolts
isn't biting: I suspect that the hole in the masonry ended up just
slightly too large to prevent the fitting from rotating.

I can't withdraw the loose fitting to investigate without removing the
baseplate and I can't do that without completely removing the two
successful bolts; and I'm reluctant to do that in case doing so weakens
the hold of their fittings.

Perhaps just two of the three bolts will be enough...

If you've used say "red" rawlplugs - tap a "yellow" one into the
rawlplug in the wall. That will jam the "red" one in place and allow the
screw to grip. In a previous life I fitted curtain rails and pelmets for
my ex-wife. That (not the ex-wife - so much!) could be a challenge as
the curtains were heavy and often needed to support the weight of a
cat/toddler hanging onto them. :-)

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"Kellerman" wrote:

If you've used say "red" rawlplugs - tap a "yellow" one into the
rawlplug in the wall. That will jam the "red" one in place and allow the
screw to grip.


That's a nice tip, thanks.
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