I have an old Neff double oven. The big top fan assisted one has stopped
heating up. The light and fan come on, but no heat. Just having a look to
suss out its take-apart-ability with the view of prodding around inside.
Do these things tend to be fixable? Blown element?

Dougie

"Dougie Nisbet" wrote in message
news
I have an old Neff double oven. The big top fan assisted one has stopped
heating up. The light and fan come on, but no heat. Just having a look to
suss out its take-apart-ability with the view of prodding around inside.
Do these things tend to be fixable? Blown element?

They are. Parts from:
http://www.neff.co.uk/149378.html#

"Dougie Nisbet" wrote in message
news
I have an old Neff double oven. The big top fan assisted one has stopped
heating up. The light and fan come on, but no heat. Just having a look to
suss out its take-apart-ability with the view of prodding around inside.
Do these things tend to be fixable? Blown element?

Dougie


All Neff parts are available they do a very good mail order service.


Rick

Rick Hughes wrote:

"Dougie Nisbet" wrote in message
news
I have an old Neff double oven. The big top fan assisted one has stopped
heating up. The light and fan come on, but no heat. Just having a look to
suss out its take-apart-ability with the view of prodding around inside.
Do these things tend to be fixable? Blown element?

Dougie


All Neff parts are available they do a very good mail order service.

.... and probably cost almost much as a replacement oven. We had a
Neff double oven (and a Neff hob), it was rubbish. Our *much* cheaper
Creda is a whole lot better.

Actually if it is just the element then it may not be all that
expensive and you may be able to get it from a supplier other than
Neff (which will be cheaper).

--
Chris Green

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 19:06:26 +0000, usenet wrote:

Rick Hughes wrote:

"Dougie Nisbet" wrote in message
news
I have an old Neff double oven. The big top fan assisted one has stopped
heating up. The light and fan come on, but no heat. Just having a look to
suss out its take-apart-ability with the view of prodding around inside.
Do these things tend to be fixable? Blown element?

Dougie


All Neff parts are available they do a very good mail order service.

... and probably cost almost much as a replacement oven. We had a
Neff double oven (and a Neff hob), it was rubbish. Our *much* cheaper
Creda is a whole lot better.

Yeah - we inherited this Neff when we moved house. I expected great things
because they're such a big posh name, but it's nothing special.

Actually if it is just the element then it may not be all that
expensive and you may be able to get it from a supplier other than
Neff (which will be cheaper).
I'll have a bit of a take it to bits session and see what I find. If it is
the element, will it be obvious? How do I test whether an element is
knacked. Will it fail a continuity test?

Dougie

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 20:51:39 +0100, Dougie Nisbet
strung together this:

they're such a big posh name,

Which salesman told you that??? ;-)

I'll have a bit of a take it to bits session and see what I find. If it is
the element, will it be obvious?

Possibly, it might look ok but actually be totally knackered
internally.

How do I test whether an element is
knacked. Will it fail a continuity test?

Might do, although you really need an insulation tester to do it
properly.
It's more than likely the thermostat that's gone. First thing to test
is that power is getting to the element before you start taking too
many things apart, if it is it's probably the element, if not then
test that power is going in to the stat, if it is then the stat is
knackered if it isn't just keep following the wires back until you
find out where the power stops.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

http://www.elementman.co.uk/

Regards
Capitol

Dougie Nisbet wrote:

... and probably cost almost much as a replacement oven. We had a
Neff double oven (and a Neff hob), it was rubbish. Our *much* cheaper
Creda is a whole lot better.

Yeah - we inherited this Neff when we moved house. I expected great things
because they're such a big posh name, but it's nothing special.

That's how we got ours, I don;t know why we put up with it for such a
long time.


Actually if it is just the element then it may not be all that
expensive and you may be able to get it from a supplier other than
Neff (which will be cheaper).
I'll have a bit of a take it to bits session and see what I find. If it is
the element, will it be obvious? How do I test whether an element is
knacked. Will it fail a continuity test?

Yes, should measure something less than 100 ohms which most continuity
testers will see as 'continuous'.
24 ohms, 10 amps, 2.4kW
50 ohms, 5 amps, 1.2kW
(approximately, I know these figures aren't exactly right but they
give the sort of resistance figure you should expect)

--
Chris Green

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 22:19:22 +0100, Capitol wrote:


http://www.elementman.co.uk/

Regards
Capitol


Thanks. Great site. Can't find my element model so sent them an enquiry.

Dougie

On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 08:25:56 +0000, usenet wrote:



Actually if it is just the element then it may not be all that
expensive and you may be able to get it from a supplier other than
Neff (which will be cheaper).
I'll have a bit of a take it to bits session and see what I find. If it is
the element, will it be obvious? How do I test whether an element is
knacked. Will it fail a continuity test?

Yes, should measure something less than 100 ohms which most continuity
testers will see as 'continuous'.
24 ohms, 10 amps, 2.4kW
50 ohms, 5 amps, 1.2kW
(approximately, I know these figures aren't exactly right but they
give the sort of resistance figure you should expect)

Finally managed to remove the element. Boy is that oven rusty. The oven is
model GB-1057.73LHCS. The element is a circular model, two hoops. It has
stamped on it BACKER 01 99 2500W 240V.

My cheapo Radio-shack meter measures about 11 Mega ohms and the continuity
test doesn't bleep - which I'm not sure if that's what you meant by
'continuous' - it looks to be open circuit to me, which is what I'd expect
on a knacked element. The bulgy outy scabby bits around the element are
also a bit of an indicator!

I'm waiting to hear from www.elementman.co.uk about my model number.
Otherwise I'll see how expensive NEff are direct.

Dougie

Dougie Nisbet wrote:
On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 08:25:56 +0000, usenet wrote:



Actually if it is just the element then it may not be all that
expensive and you may be able to get it from a supplier other than
Neff (which will be cheaper).
I'll have a bit of a take it to bits session and see what I find. If it is
the element, will it be obvious? How do I test whether an element is
knacked. Will it fail a continuity test?

Yes, should measure something less than 100 ohms which most continuity
testers will see as 'continuous'.
24 ohms, 10 amps, 2.4kW
50 ohms, 5 amps, 1.2kW
(approximately, I know these figures aren't exactly right but they
give the sort of resistance figure you should expect)

Finally managed to remove the element. Boy is that oven rusty. The oven is
model GB-1057.73LHCS. The element is a circular model, two hoops. It has
stamped on it BACKER 01 99 2500W 240V.

My cheapo Radio-shack meter measures about 11 Mega ohms and the continuity
test doesn't bleep - which I'm not sure if that's what you meant by
'continuous' - it looks to be open circuit to me, which is what I'd expect
on a knacked element. The bulgy outy scabby bits around the element are
also a bit of an indicator!

Yes, that's open circuit (assuming you're measuring between the right
places of course). A 2500W 240V element should have a resistance of
just under 24 ohms.

Backer have a web site:-
http://www.backerelectric.com/

You might get some joy asking them if they'll supply you one direct.

--
Chris Green

On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 12:50:06 +0000, usenet wrote:

Dougie Nisbet wrote:
On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 08:25:56 +0000, usenet wrote:



Actually if it is just the element then it may not be all that
expensive and you may be able to get it from a supplier other than
Neff (which will be cheaper).
I'll have a bit of a take it to bits session and see what I find. If it is
the element, will it be obvious? How do I test whether an element is
knacked. Will it fail a continuity test?

Yes, should measure something less than 100 ohms which most continuity
testers will see as 'continuous'.
24 ohms, 10 amps, 2.4kW
50 ohms, 5 amps, 1.2kW
(approximately, I know these figures aren't exactly right but they
give the sort of resistance figure you should expect)

Finally managed to remove the element. Boy is that oven rusty. The oven is
model GB-1057.73LHCS. The element is a circular model, two hoops. It has
stamped on it BACKER 01 99 2500W 240V.

My cheapo Radio-shack meter measures about 11 Mega ohms and the continuity
test doesn't bleep - which I'm not sure if that's what you meant by
'continuous' - it looks to be open circuit to me, which is what I'd expect
on a knacked element. The bulgy outy scabby bits around the element are
also a bit of an indicator!

Yes, that's open circuit (assuming you're measuring between the right
places of course). A 2500W 240V element should have a resistance of
just under 24 ohms.

Backer have a web site:-
http://www.backerelectric.com/

You might get some joy asking them if they'll supply you one direct.

www.elementman.co.uk called me back and I described the element to them.
He said it was a standard 2 stud element "they're all the same" (let's
hope so!) so I've ordered one for just under 25 quid. Should arrive
tomorrow.

Dougie

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 22:19:22 +0100, Capitol wrote:


http://www.elementman.co.uk/


Top tip! Great site. Fast friendly service. Oven sorted.