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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Installed only 4 years ago and only had little
use and now will not strike up. You can hold the lever down to bring up the pilot light, but on releasing the lever, instead of the fire bursting into life, the pilot light just goes out. The gas engineer who installed it thinks it might be a thermostat problem and proposes to charge £90 to replace it and then, if still a problem, to charge a further £190 to change the gas valve. (And will not give a reduced quote to replace both anyway despite that a large part of the effort involved would be common to both operations) THis is on top of already having paod £!60 this year for the service and replacement of the front bar supporting the coals. I'm loth to spend money when the cause of the fault remains unknown lest the total money paid this year would exceed the cost of a completely new fire. Does anyone have experience of this particular gas fire and its faults? |
#2
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On Tuesday, 8 October 2019 19:12:17 UTC+1, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
Installed only 4 years ago and only had little use and now will not strike up. You can hold the lever down to bring up the pilot light, but on releasing the lever, instead of the fire bursting into life, the pilot light just goes out. The gas engineer who installed it thinks it might be a thermostat problem and proposes to charge £90 to replace it and then, if still a problem, to charge a further £190 to change the gas valve. (And will not give a reduced quote to replace both anyway despite that a large part of the effort involved would be common to both operations) THis is on top of already having paod £!60 this year for the service and replacement of the front bar supporting the coals. I'm loth to spend money when the cause of the fault remains unknown lest the total money paid this year would exceed the cost of a completely new fire. Does anyone have experience of this particular gas fire and its faults? Thermocouple failure is most likely. Bad gas valve a lot less likely. ISTR paying around £6 for the last thermocouple. NT |
#3
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#5
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Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
On 08/10/2019 21:31, alan_m wrote: On 08/10/2019 21:05, wrote: Does anyone have experience of this particular gas fire and its faults? Thermocouple failure is most likely. Bad gas valve a lot less likely. ISTR paying around £6 for the last thermocouple. +1 Most probably the thermocouple (not thermostat), a component costing less than a fiver but replacement cost will be mainly labour. The pilot light heats up the thermocouple which in turns enables the gas value to be turned on to provide gas to the pilot when you release the manual lever/switch. To the OP - try manually holding the pilot light on for 60 seconds before releasing the lever/switch. You may be able to just see the tip of the thermcouple in the pilot flame. It should be glowing red from the heat of the pilot light. The pilot flame may not be large enough or has been directed away from the thermocouple as a result of a small piece of crude partially blocking the pilot jet. I'd be surprised if it is a thermocouple rather than one of those devices where a liquid is vapourised because there is no electrical supply to the gas fire other than the 1.5V cell used for the igniter; the few mV from a thermocouple being IMHO too feeble to operate a mechanical valve. But thanks for your comment. Well you might be surprised but the electrical output of a thermocouple can hold a solenoid open. One with a lot of very fine windings I believe but they do work. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#6
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Tim+ wrote:
I'd be surprised if it is a thermocouple rather than one of those devices where a liquid is vapourised because there is no electrical supply to the gas fire other than the 1.5V cell used for the igniter; the few mV from a thermocouple being IMHO too feeble to operate a mechanical valve. But thanks for your comment. Well you might be surprised but the electrical output of a thermocouple can hold a solenoid open. One with a lot of very fine windings I believe but they do work. Yes, certainly the flame failure devices on hobs for caravans/boats use thermocouples to hold a valve open using a solenoid. Excellent way of providing a basically failsafe system (though of course a sticky solenoid *might* stick open). -- Chris Green · |
#7
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On Tue, 8 Oct 2019 22:10:21 +0100, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs
Computer wrote: On 08/10/2019 21:31, alan_m wrote: On 08/10/2019 21:05, wrote: Does anyone have experience of this particular gas fire and its faults? Thermocouple failure is most likely. Bad gas valve a lot less likely. ISTR paying around 6 for the last thermocouple. +1 Most probably the thermocouple (not thermostat), a component costing less than a fiver but replacement cost will be mainly labour. The pilot light heats up the thermocouple which in turns enables the gas value to be turned on to provide gas to the pilot when you release the manual lever/switch. To the OP - try manually holding the pilot light on for 60 seconds before releasing the lever/switch. You may be able to just see the tip of the thermcouple in the pilot flame. It should be glowing red from the heat of the pilot light. The pilot flame may not be large enough or has been directed away from the thermocouple as a result of a small piece of crude partially blocking the pilot jet. I'd be surprised if it is a thermocouple rather than one of those devices where a liquid is vapourised because there is no electrical supply to the gas fire other than the 1.5V cell used for the igniter; the few mV from a thermocouple being IMHO too feeble to operate a mechanical valve. But thanks for your comment. I've always understood that a bimetallic strip sits in the pilot light. When it get hot it bends and opens the main valve. -- Dave W |
#8
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Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
Installed only 4 years ago and only had little use and now will not strike up. You can hold the lever down to bring up the pilot light, but on releasing the lever, instead of the fire bursting into life, the pilot light just goes out. try this, hold the pilot leaver on for 10seconds then release it very very slowly - |
#9
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On 08/10/2019 22:10, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
I'd be surprised if it is a thermocouple rather than one of those devices where a liquid is vapourised because there is no electrical supply to the gas fire other than the 1.5V cell used for the igniter; the few mV from a thermocouple being IMHO too feeble to operate a mechanical valve. Thermocouples were used extensively on older boilers that had a permanent pilot light. They held the gas valve on! Modern boilers don't have pilot lights see page 25. para 3.2.3 of the manual for your fire https://www.flavelfires.co.uk/media/...uctions_55.pdf Where it states that the pilot light heats up a thermocouple. -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
#10
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On 08/10/2019 23:44, Dave W wrote:
I've always understood that a bimetallic strip sits in the pilot light. When it get hot it bends and opens the main valve. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiCmfW1rTRY -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
#11
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Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire?
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#12
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On 09/10/2019 03:57, Cynic wrote:
Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire? Yes, I have the manual but I'm not legally qualified to tamper with any part of the gas system. |
#13
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Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer
wrote: On 09/10/2019 03:57, Cynic wrote: Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire? Yes, I have the manual but I'm not legally qualified to tamper with any part of the gas system. An FAQ. You need no legal qualifications for doing your own gas plumbing, only competence. And it is quite possible that you are competent to replace a thermocouple and clean a gas jet. The main thing is probably knowing what you don't know, and either finding out or leaving well alone. -- Roger Hayter |
#14
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Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
On 09/10/2019 03:57, Cynic wrote: Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire? Yes, I have the manual but I'm not legally qualified to tamper with any part of the gas system. Well in that case bend over and drop your pants as youre gonna get rogered. If your fire doesnt have a remote control then I believe it uses a conventional thermocouple. These only make an electrical connection so youre not tampering with any gas connection. If you have a remote it uses an oxy pilot assembly which does involve a gas connection. Personally Id tackle either but the former shouldnt deter you from a DIY repair. Your service man sounds like an utter shyster. The symptoms are totally characteristic of a failed thermocouple and they only cost a few quid. It *could* be the gas valve but only a con man would change that before trying a new thermocouple. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#15
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On 09/10/2019 10:25, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
On 09/10/2019 03:57, Cynic wrote: Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire? Yes, I have the manual but I'm not legally qualified to tamper with any part of the gas system. But if you had read it, you would have found out that... "Note : Because this appliance is fitted with an atmosphere sensing Oxy-Pilot it is not possible to replace the thermocouple separately, because the thermocouple position is factory set to a tight tolerance. Any replacement of parts on the pilot requires a complete new pilot assembly." (Page 34 (MC models), and page 37 (SC models) You could also look up the part numbers and find out the replacement cost to find out whether you're being ripped off or not. In any case, if you don't trust the gas safe engineer - find another one. |
#16
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On 09/10/2019 11:08, Tim+ wrote:
Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote: On 09/10/2019 03:57, Cynic wrote: Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire? Yes, I have the manual but I'm not legally qualified to tamper with any part of the gas system. Well in that case bend over and drop your pants as youre gonna get rogered. If your fire doesnt have a remote control then I believe it uses a conventional thermocouple. These only make an electrical connection so youre not tampering with any gas connection. If you have a remote it uses an oxy pilot assembly which does involve a gas connection. It's not remote controlled (lever at right hand side) but it DOES have an oxy-pilot assembly. |
#17
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On 09/10/2019 11:12, John Kenyon wrote:
On 09/10/2019 10:25, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote: On 09/10/2019 03:57, Cynic wrote: Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire? Yes, I have the manual but I'm not legally qualified to tamper with any part of the gas system. But if you had read it, you would have found out that... "Note : Because this appliance is fitted with an atmosphere sensing Oxy-Pilot it is not possible to replace the thermocouple separately, because the thermocouple position is factory set to a tight tolerance. Any replacement of parts on the pilot requires a complete new pilot assembly." (Page 34 (MC models), and page 37 (SC models) You could also look up the part numbers and find out the replacement cost to find out whether you're being ripped off or not. In any case, if you don't trust the gas safe engineer - find another one. Thanks, I had already quoted that bit to the gas engineer. |
#18
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#19
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Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
On 09/10/2019 11:08, Tim+ wrote: Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote: On 09/10/2019 03:57, Cynic wrote: Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire? Yes, I have the manual but I'm not legally qualified to tamper with any part of the gas system. Well in that case bend over and drop your pants as youre gonna get rogered. If your fire doesnt have a remote control then I believe it uses a conventional thermocouple. These only make an electrical connection so youre not tampering with any gas connection. If you have a remote it uses an oxy pilot assembly which does involve a gas connection. It's not remote controlled (lever at right hand side) but it DOES have an oxy-pilot assembly. Okay. Theyre not that expensive. (About £36 delivered). Interesting page here with info on how they work. Pilot might just have a fluffed up air intake. https://dengarden.com/home-improveme...t-half-an-hour Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#20
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John Kenyon wrote:
On 09/10/2019 10:25, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote: On 09/10/2019 03:57, Cynic wrote: Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire? Yes, I have the manual but I'm not legally qualified to tamper with any part of the gas system. But if you had read it, you would have found out that... "Note : Because this appliance is fitted with an atmosphere sensing Oxy-Pilot it is not possible to replace the thermocouple separately, because the thermocouple position is factory set to a tight tolerance. Any replacement of parts on the pilot requires a complete new pilot assembly." (Page 34 (MC models), and page 37 (SC models) Having looked at several pictures Id say that it uses a perfectly standard (cheap) thermocouple and that I personally would be quite happy to replace just the thermocouple. Yes, positioning is important but the bracket holding it look designed to hold it in the right place without adjustment. Given that replacing it will cost less than a fiver and doesnt involve messing with any gas connections it seems a bit of a no brainer to me. At worst, the flame wont stay lit and youll be an extra £5 out of pocket. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#21
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On 09/10/2019 11:44, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
In response to another poster, one just has not got to be competent but must also legally be a registered installer which, of course, I'm not! Are you the home owner or just renting? -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
#22
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Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
On 08/10/2019 21:05, wrote: Thermocouple failure is most likely. Bad gas valve a lot less likely. ISTR paying around £6 for the last thermocouple. Been quoted £90 for replacement, but it has to be the whole oxypilot assembly which, in response to another poster has a trade price of £40-10p, so probably not being ripped off. In response to another poster, one just has not got to be competent but must also legally be a registered installer which, of course, I'm not! If its not rented property you dont need to be a registered installer. Competence can be gained though a bit of basic research. This IS a DIY forum. Why ask for advice here if youre not prepared to consider a DIY option? Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#23
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On 09/10/2019 13:42, Tim+ wrote:
Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote: On 08/10/2019 21:05, wrote: Thermocouple failure is most likely. Bad gas valve a lot less likely. ISTR paying around £6 for the last thermocouple. Been quoted £90 for replacement, but it has to be the whole oxypilot assembly which, in response to another poster has a trade price of £40-10p, so probably not being ripped off. In response to another poster, one just has not got to be competent but must also legally be a registered installer which, of course, I'm not! If its not rented property you dont need to be a registered installer. Competence can be gained though a bit of basic research. This IS a DIY forum. Why ask for advice here if youre not prepared to consider a DIY option? Because there might have been anecdotal experience from other, polite, posters. As it happens, it now seems that I'm due a free remedy by Flavel themselves ... https://www.flavelfires.co.uk/service-call-centre .... having had the thing serviced regularly since installation. |
#24
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On 09/10/2019 13:20, alan_m wrote:
On 09/10/2019 11:44, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote: In response to another poster, one just has not got to be competent but must also legally be a registered installer which, of course, I'm not! Are you the home owner or just renting? My wife owns the home; I suppose that you might consider me to be the lodger :-) |
#25
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Tim+ was thinking very hard :
Your service man sounds like an utter shyster. The symptoms are totally characteristic of a failed thermocouple and they only cost a few quid. It *could* be the gas valve but only a con man would change that before trying a new thermocouple. +1 There's a lot of it about.. |
#26
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On Tue, 8 Oct 2019 22:10:21 +0100, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer
wrote: the few mV from a thermocouple being IMHO too feeble to operate a mechanical valve. Naah, it's the current that creates the magnetic field. Check the thermocouple is getting hot, possibly by using an external gas torch. Thomas Prufer |
#27
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On Wednesday, 9 October 2019 14:17:43 UTC+1, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
My wife owns the home; I suppose that you might consider me to be the lodger :-) Or the kept man :-) Owain |
#28
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On 09/10/2019 14:16, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote:
As it happens, it now seems that I'm due a free remedy by Flavel themselves ... https://www.flavelfires.co.uk/service-call-centre ... having had the thing serviced regularly since installation. That says that you would have had to paid for a oxy-pilot assembly every year as part of the service. If the oxy-pilot assembly hasn't been changed in the previous 4 years then this guarantee is void. The fact that they want you to change the pilot assembly every year suggests that is the weak point in the system. -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
#29
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In article ,
Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote: On 09/10/2019 03:57, Cynic wrote: Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire? Yes, I have the manual but I'm not legally qualified to tamper with any part of the gas system. if it's your own, you may - it's only when you charge someone for your services that a qualificxation comes into it. -- from KT24 in Surrey, England "I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle |
#30
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After serious thinking Thomas Prufer wrote :
Naah, it's the current that creates the magnetic field. The current operates the solenoid, but the solenoid is not able to operate the valve, the solenoid is only able to retain the valve in the open position. The appliance operator provides the effort needed to open the valve, the solenoid can then latch it. Check the thermocouple is getting hot, possibly by using an external gas torch. |
#31
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On 09/10/2019 17:26, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
After serious thinking Thomas Prufer wrote : Naah, it's the current that creates the magnetic field. The current operates the solenoid, but the solenoid is not able to operate the valve, the solenoid is only able to retain the valve in the open position. The appliance operator provides the effort needed to open the valve, the solenoid can then latch it. Interesting |
#32
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On 09/10/2019 16:32, alan_m wrote:
On 09/10/2019 14:16, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote: As it happens, it now seems that I'm due a free remedy by Flavel themselves ... https://www.flavelfires.co.uk/service-call-centre ... having had the thing serviced regularly since installation. That says that you would have had to paid for a oxy-pilot assembly every year as part of the service. If the oxy-pilot assembly hasn't been changed in the previous 4 years then this guarantee is void. The fact that they want you to change the pilot assembly every year suggests that is the weak point in the system. It will be the oxypilot that needs a good clean and try a new battery (duracell). The oxypilot will be £40-50 to buy and not a fiver as an earlier post. Oxypilots are a calibrated pilot assembly specific to that appliance. Get a second opinion as it may well be something and nothing. Im Gas Safe registered |
#33
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Steph wrote:
On 09/10/2019 16:32, alan_m wrote: On 09/10/2019 14:16, Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote: As it happens, it now seems that I'm due a free remedy by Flavel themselves ... https://www.flavelfires.co.uk/service-call-centre ... having had the thing serviced regularly since installation. That says that you would have had to paid for a oxy-pilot assembly every year as part of the service. If the oxy-pilot assembly hasn't been changed in the previous 4 years then this guarantee is void. The fact that they want you to change the pilot assembly every year suggests that is the weak point in the system. It will be the oxypilot that needs a good clean and try a new battery (duracell). The oxypilot will be £40-50 to buy and not a fiver as an earlier post. Nobody has said than an oxypilot was only a fiver. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#34
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On 10/10/2019 23:04, Steph wrote:
It will be the oxypilot that needs a good clean and try a new battery (duracell). Surely the battery is only the power source for the spark to initially light the pilot. Once lit it's the thermocouple that provides the power to keep the valve open The oxypilot will be £40-50 to buy and not a fiver as an earlier post. An oxipilot appears to just be an assembly that contains a thermocouple, a pilot jet and a (spark) electrode. Its only an individual thermocouple that has been quoted as a fiver. Oxypilots are a calibrated pilot assembly specific to that appliance. What do the manufacturers calibrate? It just appears that the one piece replacement containing 3 separate items is functionally no different to what has previously fitted to boilers for many decades that didn't require any calibration other than the correct physical positioning to get the thermocouple tip in the flame. For the professional gas technician replacing all items as a combined unit may be cost effective as it could cure 3 potential different "faults" in one go and most of the cost will be the call out and labour. What the manufacture may have done in a Oxypilot is to make the whole pilot assembly it cheaper to manufacture by crimping components to a bracket rather than using screws/nuts and hence making it difficult or impossible to disassemble. Get a second opinion as it may well be something and nothing. Im* Gas Safe registered Wouldn't the second opinion be based on the same educated guesses and any home visit to do otherwise cost the OP money probably to the amount previously quoted? -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
#35
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The oxypilot is carefully factory set so the flame just impinges on the tip of the thermocouple. If the oxygen content of the available air reduces (flue gases spill back into the roomspace) the flame lifts off the tube seeking oxygen and in so doing ceases to contact the thermocouple. The thermocouple cools and the gas valve closed.
The assembly must be kept clean as the slightest obstruction will prevent the thermocouple heating during the initial light up of the appliance. |
#36
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Cynic wrote:
The oxypilot is carefully factory set so the flame just impinges on the tip of the thermocouple. If the oxygen content of the available air reduces (flue gases spill back into the roomspace) the flame lifts off the tube seeking oxygen and in so doing ceases to contact the thermocouple. The thermocouple cools and the gas valve closed. The assembly must be kept clean as the slightest obstruction will prevent the thermocouple heating during the initial light up of the appliance. Well yes, but its not rocket science and nor is it calibrated. Its just manufactured to hold the thermocouple in the right place without needing any post-installation alignment. If it were mine and it had a faulty thermocouple, Id try fitting a universal thermocouple in its place. Clearly a step to far for the OP though. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#37
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On 11/10/2019 19:14, alan_m wrote:
On 10/10/2019 23:04, Steph wrote: It will be the oxypilot that needs a good clean and try a new battery (duracell). Surely the battery is only the power source for the spark to initially light the pilot. Once lit it's the thermocouple that provides the power to keep the valve open The oxypilot will be £40-50 to buy and not a fiver as an earlier post. An oxipilot appears to just be an assembly that contains a thermocouple, a pilot jet and a (spark) electrode. Its only an individual thermocouple that has been quoted as a fiver. Oxypilots are a calibrated pilot assembly specific to that appliance. What do the manufacturers calibrate? It just appears that the one piece replacement containing 3 separate items is functionally no different to what has previously fitted to boilers for many decades that didn't require any calibration other than the correct physical positioning to get the thermocouple tip in the flame. For the professional gas technician replacing all items as a combined unit may be cost effective as it could cure 3 potential different "faults" in one go and most of the cost will be the call out and labour. What the manufacture may have done in a Oxypilot is to make the whole pilot assembly it cheaper to manufacture by crimping components to a bracket rather than using screws/nuts and hence making it difficult or impossible to disassemble. Get a second opinion as it may well be something and nothing. Im* Gas Safe registered Wouldn't the second opinion be based on the same educated guesses and any home visit to do otherwise cost the OP money probably to the amount previously quoted? Being the OP (and victim :-) ) in this matter, I've been doing a lot of reading around, and this is my understanding ... In normal operation the pilot flame plays over the thermocouple as expected. In low oxygen situations, the gas leaves the pilot hole but does not actually burn until it has passed the end of the thermocouple so cooling it down. Quite a clever pseudo-mechanical invention. The cost of calibration is that the thermocoouple has to be accurately position with respect to the pilot hole to ensure correct safe operation as above. HTH (I knew nothing at all about this only a week ago) |
#38
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In most cases I encountered while working, the thermocouple was solidly mounted into the assembly thus precluding sticking a generic thermocouple in as a replacement.
If cleaning doesn't solve the problem you will have to fork out for a correct replacement part. |
#39
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Cynic wrote:
In most cases I encountered while working, the thermocouple was solidly mounted into the assembly thus precluding sticking a generic thermocouple in as a replacement. If cleaning doesn't solve the problem you will have to fork out for a correct replacement part. Well if youd had one in your hands then I guess it might not be possible. Looking at the Oxypilot assembly, it doesnt look that solidly mounted. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m... 310867341303 Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#40
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On Wed, 09 Oct 2019 16:46:52 +0100, charles wrote:
In article , Gareth's was W7 now W10 Downstairs Computer wrote: On 09/10/2019 03:57, Cynic wrote: Probably has an oxygen depletion sensing thermocouple assembly. Try cleaning it as a first step. Do you still have the installation and service manual that came with the fire? Yes, I have the manual but I'm not legally qualified to tamper with any part of the gas system. if it's your own, you may - it's only when you charge someone for your services that a qualificxation comes into it. I was told I'm not supposed to move/replace my gas piping (as in the supply line between the meter and the boiler/fire/cooker) in my own house (which I obviously ignored). |
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