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  #1   Report Post  
Stephen Gilkes
 
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Default More Questions - Electrical sockets

Hi all

When fitting an electrical socket, should the edge of the mounting box be
flush with the outer surface of the wall?

So for example, if your plasterboard is 10mm thick fixed onto 25mm batten,
should you use 35mm mounting boxes.

Or can you get away with using 25mm mounting boxes?

I would like to fit all my mounting boxes before I fix the plasterboard. I
was hoping that once the plasterboard was fitted I could just drill and open
up the hole over the mounting box. However, if the mounting box was 35 mm I
wouldn't be able to fix the plasterboard on (unless I had created the hole
in the plasterboard first - which I don't want to do)

Thanks for your time.


  #2   Report Post  
Mal
 
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Default More Questions - Electrical sockets


"Stephen Gilkes" wrote in message
...
Hi all

When fitting an electrical socket, should the edge of the mounting box be
flush with the outer surface of the wall?

So for example, if your plasterboard is 10mm thick fixed onto 25mm batten,
should you use 35mm mounting boxes.

Or can you get away with using 25mm mounting boxes?

I would like to fit all my mounting boxes before I fix the plasterboard. I
was hoping that once the plasterboard was fitted I could just drill and

open
up the hole over the mounting box. However, if the mounting box was 35 mm

I
wouldn't be able to fix the plasterboard on (unless I had created the hole
in the plasterboard first - which I don't want to do)

Thanks for your time.


That would just be a pain - you would have to cut your plasterboard exactly
to fit. It would be much easier to fit the sockets afterwards.

There are special dry lining boxes available for use with plasterboard.
They have plastic "ears" which grip the back of the wall when you fix the
faceplate on. One word of warning - don't buy them from Homebase - they
charge at least 4 times as much as B&Q (and a lot of builders merchants are
just as bad).

Mal


  #3   Report Post  
Kalico
 
Posts: n/a
Default More Questions - Electrical sockets

"Stephen Gilkes" wrote in message
...
Hi all

When fitting an electrical socket, should the edge of the mounting box be
flush with the outer surface of the wall?

So for example, if your plasterboard is 10mm thick fixed onto 25mm batten,
should you use 35mm mounting boxes.

Or can you get away with using 25mm mounting boxes?

I would like to fit all my mounting boxes before I fix the plasterboard. I
was hoping that once the plasterboard was fitted I could just drill and

open
up the hole over the mounting box. However, if the mounting box was 35 mm

I
wouldn't be able to fix the plasterboard on (unless I had created the hole
in the plasterboard first - which I don't want to do)

Thanks for your time.

It is not necessary for the edge of the metal box to be perfectly flush with
the surface of the plasterboard/plaster. That said, I would not advise a
massive gap.

What you say about creating the hole in the plasterboard first is what I
have seen most plasterers do, so I am not sure why you don't want to do it
first. Usually, when I am wiring to a brick wall, prior to plastering
(which is so much easier than hacking out!) I just run the cables up, down
or along to the 25mm box (this is the most common size btw) which I have
mounted easily straight onto the brick. The rest of the work is then done
by the plasterer who cuts the holes and skims. The holes are usually a
little larger than the box to allow for movement mounting the board, but
these gaps get filled when skimming.

Any plaster that has run into the box can most easily be cut out with a
knife, preferably before the plaster is fully set. Otherwise, break it off
after scoring when it has hardened fully.

Remember to use grommets where the cable passes into the metal box.

The problem I see with your method of drilling to *open up the hole* after
the board has been mounted is that you could well drill through into the
cable itself.

Hope that helps.
Rob

--
Tel. 07010 703 702

Replace SPAM with ORG to reply



  #4   Report Post  
Stephen Gilkes
 
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Default More Questions - Electrical sockets

Thanks Guys!

"Stephen Gilkes" wrote in message
...
Hi all

When fitting an electrical socket, should the edge of the mounting box be
flush with the outer surface of the wall?

So for example, if your plasterboard is 10mm thick fixed onto 25mm batten,
should you use 35mm mounting boxes.

Or can you get away with using 25mm mounting boxes?

I would like to fit all my mounting boxes before I fix the plasterboard. I
was hoping that once the plasterboard was fitted I could just drill and

open
up the hole over the mounting box. However, if the mounting box was 35 mm

I
wouldn't be able to fix the plasterboard on (unless I had created the hole
in the plasterboard first - which I don't want to do)

Thanks for your time.




  #5   Report Post  
Andy Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default More Questions - Electrical sockets

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 16:09:57 -0000, "Stephen Gilkes"
wrote:

Hi all

When fitting an electrical socket, should the edge of the mounting box be
flush with the outer surface of the wall?


Ideally, yes.


So for example, if your plasterboard is 10mm thick fixed onto 25mm batten,
should you use 35mm mounting boxes.

Or can you get away with using 25mm mounting boxes?


You could, but you might need to buy longer fixing bolts for the
sockets.



I would like to fit all my mounting boxes before I fix the plasterboard. I
was hoping that once the plasterboard was fitted I could just drill and open
up the hole over the mounting box. However, if the mounting box was 35 mm I
wouldn't be able to fix the plasterboard on (unless I had created the hole
in the plasterboard first - which I don't want to do)



Another approach is to buy plasterboard boxes. For these, you cut
holes in the plasterboard after fixing. The boxes then push into
place and there are fixing clips captive in the box which then push
into position behind the board The fitting bolts then secure
everything..



Thanks for your time.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl


  #6   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default More Questions - Electrical sockets

Kalico wrote:
"Stephen Gilkes" wrote in message
...
Hi all

When fitting an electrical socket, should the edge of the mounting box be
flush with the outer surface of the wall?

So for example, if your plasterboard is 10mm thick fixed onto 25mm batten,
should you use 35mm mounting boxes.

Or can you get away with using 25mm mounting boxes?

I would like to fit all my mounting boxes before I fix the plasterboard. I
was hoping that once the plasterboard was fitted I could just drill and

open
up the hole over the mounting box. However, if the mounting box was 35 mm

I
wouldn't be able to fix the plasterboard on (unless I had created the hole
in the plasterboard first - which I don't want to do)

Thanks for your time.

It is not necessary for the edge of the metal box to be perfectly flush with
the surface of the plasterboard/plaster. That said, I would not advise a
massive gap.

What you say about creating the hole in the plasterboard first is what I
have seen most plasterers do, so I am not sure why you don't want to do it
first. Usually, when I am wiring to a brick wall, prior to plastering
(which is so much easier than hacking out!) I just run the cables up, down
or along to the 25mm box (this is the most common size btw) which I have
mounted easily straight onto the brick. The rest of the work is then done
by the plasterer who cuts the holes and skims. The holes are usually a
little larger than the box to allow for movement mounting the board, but
these gaps get filled when skimming.

Any plaster that has run into the box can most easily be cut out with a
knife, preferably before the plaster is fully set. Otherwise, break it off
after scoring when it has hardened fully.

Remember to use grommets where the cable passes into the metal box.

The problem I see with your method of drilling to *open up the hole* after
the board has been mounted is that you could well drill through into the
cable itself.

The OP appears to be using plasterboard on battens on a solid wall.

The normal way to put sockets in plasterboard is to use dry-lining
boxes, I think these would eb the best way for the OP's situation too
rather than using metal boxes fixed on the wall behind the
plasterboard.

--
Chris Green
  #7   Report Post  
Christian McArdle
 
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Default More Questions - Electrical sockets

The normal way to put sockets in plasterboard is to use dry-lining
boxes, I think these would eb the best way for the OP's situation
too rather than using metal boxes fixed on the wall behind the
plasterboard.


OTOH, metal boxes do have some advantages.

1. Much firmer, good for knocking in stiff plugs.
2. You don't get that white lip, which can be obvious is differently shaped
to the socket, or the socket isn't white.

Christian.


  #8   Report Post  
chris French
 
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Default More Questions - Electrical sockets

In message , Christian
McArdle writes
The normal way to put sockets in plasterboard is to use dry-lining
boxes, I think these would eb the best way for the OP's situation
too rather than using metal boxes fixed on the wall behind the
plasterboard.


OTOH, metal boxes do have some advantages.

1. Much firmer, good for knocking in stiff plugs.
2. You don't get that white lip, which can be obvious is differently shaped
to the socket, or the socket isn't white.


Indeed, which is why I prefer to use them if possible in most
situations.
--
Chris French, Leeds
  #9   Report Post  
chris French
 
Posts: n/a
Default More Questions - Electrical sockets

In message , Kalico
writes
"Stephen Gilkes" wrote in message
...
Hi all

When fitting an electrical socket, should the edge of the mounting box be
flush with the outer surface of the wall?

So for example, if your plasterboard is 10mm thick fixed onto 25mm batten,
should you use 35mm mounting boxes.

Or can you get away with using 25mm mounting boxes?

I would like to fit all my mounting boxes before I fix the plasterboard. I
was hoping that once the plasterboard was fitted I could just drill and

open
up the hole over the mounting box. However, if the mounting box was 35 mm

I
wouldn't be able to fix the plasterboard on (unless I had created the hole
in the plasterboard first - which I don't want to do)

Thanks for your time.

It is not necessary for the edge of the metal box to be perfectly flush with
the surface of the plasterboard/plaster. That said, I would not advise a
massive gap.



What you say about creating the hole in the plasterboard first is what I
have seen most plasterers do, so I am not sure why you don't want to do it
first.

snip

The problem I see with your method of drilling to *open up the hole* after
the board has been mounted is that you could well drill through into the
cable itself.


I've put a couple of metal boxes in plasterboard walls recently. I
tried both the cut the hole first, and the cut it afterwards technique.
I think the latter was probably quicker. Though both work fine.

When cutting the hole afterwards, I mounted the box flush with the rear
side of the PB. . When boarded and skimmed I use a small drywall saw to
cut round the inside of the box. As long as you take care it's easy
enough not to knacker the cable.



--
Chris French, Leeds
  #10   Report Post  
Lurch
 
Posts: n/a
Default More Questions - Electrical sockets

On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 16:55:27 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

The normal way to put sockets in plasterboard is to use dry-lining
boxes, I think these would eb the best way for the OP's situation
too rather than using metal boxes fixed on the wall behind the
plasterboard.


OTOH, metal boxes do have some advantages.

1. Much firmer, good for knocking in stiff plugs.


It's usually cheap sockets, not dodgy plugs!

2. You don't get that white lip, which can be obvious is differently shaped
to the socket, or the socket isn't white.

The way around this is fit the boxes before plastering. One thing to
bear in mind is dry lining boxes are 35mm, you will probably find that
some will not fit back to the board properly because of protuding bits
of wall. The usual use for dry lining boxes is stud walls, for dry
lined walls metal boxes attached to the brickwork is the more common
method.
...

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.


  #11   Report Post  
Kalico
 
Posts: n/a
Default More Questions - Electrical sockets

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Feb 2004 16:09:57 -0000, "Stephen Gilkes"
wrote:

Hi all

When fitting an electrical socket, should the edge of the mounting box be
flush with the outer surface of the wall?


Ideally, yes.


So for example, if your plasterboard is 10mm thick fixed onto 25mm

batten,
should you use 35mm mounting boxes.

Or can you get away with using 25mm mounting boxes?


You could, but you might need to buy longer fixing bolts for the
sockets.



I would like to fit all my mounting boxes before I fix the plasterboard.

I
was hoping that once the plasterboard was fitted I could just drill and

open
up the hole over the mounting box. However, if the mounting box was 35 mm

I
wouldn't be able to fix the plasterboard on (unless I had created the

hole
in the plasterboard first - which I don't want to do)



Another approach is to buy plasterboard boxes. For these, you cut
holes in the plasterboard after fixing. The boxes then push into
place and there are fixing clips captive in the box which then push
into position behind the board The fitting bolts then secure
everything..



Thanks for your time.


.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl


You can use dry lining boxes but I only use them if wiring a new socket into
an existing plasterboard wall.

If I was doing what the original poster said, I would use metal, fixed to
the wall, maybe even on a small wooden pattress to push forward a bit, and
then cut a hole in the plasterboard afterwards.

HTH
Rob


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