I'm hoping there are some washing machine 'experts' here that might have
some suggestions about my washing machine problem. Basically it seems to
get stuck when it gets to a part of the cycle where it's supposed to rotate
the drum in the back & forth wash cycle.

I have done some debugging using a Haynes general washing machine manual
(although it's not specifically for this machine of course). Also, I am
electrically minded so I have a multimeter to check voltages, continuity
etc.

Depending where I rotate the Programme switch to I have determined that:
-The heater works. (water gets fine & hot)
-The (two) thermostats work. (Heater cuts out when it reaches temperature)
-Drum spins (when set to the spin cycle)
-Pump works (when set to a drain cycle it pumps out the water)
-Door Interlock works (cannot open door during eg heating)
-Inlet solenoids work (hot & cold fill let's in water fine)
-The Pressure switch works (as best I can tell). I disconnected it at the
drum end and blew gently into the hose. I could hear three distinctive
'clicks' depending on the air pressure I applied).

So now I'm looking at the controller (timer) which is an old mechanical
type. It has a single drive motor with a solenoid at the end. I believe
the little motor on it is running (I put a screwdriver up against it and to
my ear and I could hear a whirring sound). However the main programme knob
does not seem to turn (advance) as it should.

SWMBO also tells me we have had some intermittent issues in the last year or
so where the machine would get stuck on a cycle but if 'nudged on' at the
programme knob it would continue and it might not happen again for weeks.

So I'm thinking it's the Programmer/Timer I need to replace but they are
quite expensive (and a sod to remove/replace) so if anyone has any more
suggestions before I take the plunge I would be most grateful.

Thanks, James

On Tue, 3 Aug 2004 23:25:06 +0100, "James"
wrote:

SWMBO also tells me we have had some intermittent issues in the last year or
so where the machine would get stuck on a cycle but if 'nudged on' at the
programme knob it would continue and it might not happen again for weeks.

So I'm thinking it's the Programmer/Timer I need to replace but they are
quite expensive (and a sod to remove/replace) so if anyone has any more
suggestions before I take the plunge I would be most grateful.

Check whether the programmer/timer is linked to a controller board.
Generally this is hidden away underneath and is difficult to see. This
may have an intermittent fault or may be getting damp or indeed there
may be something amiss with the wiring.

sPoNiX

On Tue, 3 Aug 2004 23:25:06 +0100, "James"
wrote:


-The Pressure switch works (as best I can tell). I disconnected it at the
drum end and blew gently into the hose. I could hear three distinctive
'clicks' depending on the air pressure I applied).

Check the switch contacts with a meter. Also check there isn't a
blockage in the 'spigot' that joins the hose to the drum (Poke a piece
of wire up the hole if needed)

sPoNiX

"sPoNiX" wrote

Check whether the programmer/timer is linked to a controller board.
Generally this is hidden away underneath and is difficult to see. This
may have an intermittent fault or may be getting damp or indeed there
may be something amiss with the wiring.

Do you mean some type of electronic controller board? I suspect the
machine is too old for such a thing (15-20 years old) although I have had a
good look I can't see anything like that.

-The Pressure switch works (as best I can tell). I disconnected it at
the
drum end and blew gently into the hose. I could hear three distinctive
'clicks' depending on the air pressure I applied).

Check the switch contacts with a meter. Also check there isn't a
blockage in the 'spigot' that joins the hose to the drum (Poke a piece
of wire up the hole if needed)

I checked the pressure switch contacts with a meter. There are 9 wire
connections (labelled 11,12,13; 21,22,23; 31,32,33) on the pressure switch
which seems to indicate 3 switches (each with 3 contacts). They are wired
such that all the three switch centre poles (12,22,32) are wired together in
parallel, all the NC (normally closed) poles (11,21,31) are wired separately
and all the NO poles (13,23,33) are wired together in parallel. eg:
11-
-12
13-
In the quiescent state 12-11 is NC, 12-13 is NO.
When I blow & hear the 'click' for that switch, 12-11 opens but 12-13 does
not close?
It's exactly the same for the other two switches? Could this indicate a
faulty pressure switch but if so why would all three NO contacts fail?

I also check for blockages as you suggested but it looks fine.

Thanks for responding.

On Wed, 4 Aug 2004 13:08:49 +0100, "James"
wrote:

"sPoNiX" wrote

Check whether the programmer/timer is linked to a controller board.
Generally this is hidden away underneath and is difficult to see. This
may have an intermittent fault or may be getting damp or indeed there
may be something amiss with the wiring.

Do you mean some type of electronic controller board? I suspect the
machine is too old for such a thing (15-20 years old) although I have had a
good look I can't see anything like that.

-The Pressure switch works (as best I can tell). I disconnected it at
the
drum end and blew gently into the hose. I could hear three distinctive
'clicks' depending on the air pressure I applied).

Check the switch contacts with a meter. Also check there isn't a
blockage in the 'spigot' that joins the hose to the drum (Poke a piece
of wire up the hole if needed)

I checked the pressure switch contacts with a meter. There are 9 wire
connections (labelled 11,12,13; 21,22,23; 31,32,33) on the pressure switch
which seems to indicate 3 switches (each with 3 contacts). They are wired
such that all the three switch centre poles (12,22,32) are wired together in
parallel, all the NC (normally closed) poles (11,21,31) are wired separately
and all the NO poles (13,23,33) are wired together in parallel. eg:
11-
-12
13-
In the quiescent state 12-11 is NC, 12-13 is NO.
When I blow & hear the 'click' for that switch, 12-11 opens but 12-13 does
not close?
It's exactly the same for the other two switches? Could this indicate a
faulty pressure switch but if so why would all three NO contacts fail?

I also check for blockages as you suggested but it looks fine.

The three switches should, iirc, all come on at different pressures
but should otherwise behave in the same way.

I checked the pressure switch contacts with a meter. There are 9 wire
connections (labelled 11,12,13; 21,22,23; 31,32,33) on the pressure
switch
which seems to indicate 3 switches (each with 3 contacts). They are
wired
such that all the three switch centre poles (12,22,32) are wired together
in
parallel, all the NC (normally closed) poles (11,21,31) are wired
separately
and all the NO poles (13,23,33) are wired together in parallel. eg:
11-
-12
13-
In the quiescent state 12-11 is NC, 12-13 is NO.
When I blow & hear the 'click' for that switch, 12-11 opens but 12-13
does
not close?
It's exactly the same for the other two switches? Could this indicate a
faulty pressure switch but if so why would all three NO contacts fail?

I also check for blockages as you suggested but it looks fine.

The three switches should, iirc, all come on at different pressures
but should otherwise behave in the same way.

They do come on at different pressures and they do behave in the same way.
What I'm a bit confused about now is why each of the three switches have a
third contact (which is wired) but always remains normally open?