Interesting devices. I've now got a 2-gang switch and two receivers -
one for the ceiling light and one for the wall lights.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Quinetic/Quinetic/index.html

I was pleased to find there is no delay whatsoever; I thought there
might be a noticeable fraction of a second, but that isn't the case. So
overall it does what it says on the tin, but there are some points for
consideration. In particular, somehow I got the gangs out of
synchronisation, so one was on when the top was pressed, the other on
when the bottom was pressed! This might be due to turning on and off too
quickly, or maybe an interfering signal confused the receiver.

Annoyingly, there is no through connection on the receiver for earth, so
a crimp or block is needed if the light fitting has to be earthed.
Secondly, as the switch came it was press the top to turn on the light,
press bottom to switch off. This seems a bit strange in the UK, and, as
far as I can see, the switch can't be mounted upside-down. The outer
frame has "Quinetic" printed on it for a start, which would look a bit
odd upside-down. However, the actual switch itself can be inverted in
the outer frame, except that the metal fixing plate only goes on one
way, and the switch might be loose if mounted upside-down. There is a
way round this, as the switch sends an identical signal for on and off.
To get the switch for top on or bottom on, or to get the gangs back in
sync, make sure the lights are off, then take the switch out of range of
the receiver, and set it the way you want it to be off. On returning,
and in range, it should then work correctly.

Finally, if you are going to use the Quinetic switch to replace a wired
switch faceplate screwed to a pattress you will need to purchase an
adapter plate so the Quinetic switch can be screwed to the pattress.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QURCP.html

--

Jeff

On 06/04/2019 14:31, Jeff Layman wrote:
Interesting devices. I've now got a 2-gang switch and two receivers -
one for the ceiling light and one for the wall lights.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Quinetic/Quinetic/index.html

I was pleased to find there is no delay whatsoever; I thought there
might be a noticeable fraction of a second, but that isn't the case. So
overall it does what it says on the tin, but there are some points for
consideration. In particular, somehow I got the gangs out of
synchronisation, so one was on when the top was pressed, the other on
when the bottom was pressed! This might be due to turning on and off too
quickly, or maybe an interfering signal confused the receiver.

Annoyingly, there is no through connection on the receiver for earth, so
a crimp or block is needed if the light fitting has to be earthed.
Secondly, as the switch came it was press the top to turn on the light,
press bottom to switch off. This seems a bit strange in the UK, and, as
far as I can see, the switch can't be mounted upside-down. The outer
frame has "Quinetic" printed on it for a start, which would look a bit
odd upside-down. However, the actual switch itself can be inverted in
the outer frame, except that the metal fixing plate only goes on one
way, and the switch might be loose if mounted upside-down. There is a
way round this, as the switch sends an identical signal for on and off.
To get the switch for top on or bottom on, or to get the gangs back in
sync, make sure the lights are off, then take the switch out of range of
the receiver, and set it the way you want it to be off. On returning,
and in range, it should then work correctly.

Finally, if you are going to use the Quinetic switch to replace a wired
switch faceplate screwed to a pattress you will need to purchase an
adapter plate so the Quinetic switch can be screwed to the pattress.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QURCP.html


Can't see the powered switch receiver lasting 50 years.

On 06/04/19 16:30, Andy Bennet wrote:
On 06/04/2019 14:31, Jeff Layman wrote:


Can't see the powered switch receiver lasting 50 years.

Nor will I, unless life expectancy suddenly increases to 120, so I'm not
concerned.

But I wonder how well they are made? When testing had ended, and it was
confirmed they worked ok, the electrician nailed the wiring to the
joists with cable clips. With each blow of the hammer the lights
flashed. That's not too surprising considering that the receiver uses a
relay to switch the lights on. Are relays cheaper than triacs?

--

Jeff

On Saturday, 6 April 2019 16:41:46 UTC+1, Jeff Layman wrote:
That's not too surprising considering that the receiver uses a
relay to switch the lights on. Are relays cheaper than triacs?

I wouldn't think so, but relays don't care about the load (within ratings). Triac circuits are sensitive to LED/CFL types.

Owain

On Sat, 6 Apr 2019 14:31:00 +0100, Jeff Layman
wrote:

Interesting devices. I've now got a 2-gang switch and two receivers -
one for the ceiling light and one for the wall lights.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Quinetic/Quinetic/index.html

I was pleased to find there is no delay whatsoever; I thought there
might be a noticeable fraction of a second, but that isn't the case. So
overall it does what it says on the tin, but there are some points for
consideration. In particular, somehow I got the gangs out of
synchronisation, so one was on when the top was pressed, the other on
when the bottom was pressed! This might be due to turning on and off too
quickly, or maybe an interfering signal confused the receiver.

Annoyingly, there is no through connection on the receiver for earth, so
a crimp or block is needed if the light fitting has to be earthed.
Secondly, as the switch came it was press the top to turn on the light,
press bottom to switch off. This seems a bit strange in the UK, and, as
far as I can see, the switch can't be mounted upside-down. The outer
frame has "Quinetic" printed on it for a start, which would look a bit
odd upside-down. However, the actual switch itself can be inverted in
the outer frame, except that the metal fixing plate only goes on one
way, and the switch might be loose if mounted upside-down. There is a
way round this, as the switch sends an identical signal for on and off.
To get the switch for top on or bottom on, or to get the gangs back in
sync, make sure the lights are off, then take the switch out of range of
the receiver, and set it the way you want it to be off. On returning,
and in range, it should then work correctly.

Finally, if you are going to use the Quinetic switch to replace a wired
switch faceplate screwed to a pattress you will need to purchase an
adapter plate so the Quinetic switch can be screwed to the pattress.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QURCP.html

It's a bad design if ON and OFF codes are the same. Interference
occurring during an ON or OFF would reverse subsequent switchings.
--
Dave W

"Jeff Layman" wrote in message
...
Interesting devices. I've now got a 2-gang switch and two receivers - one
for the ceiling light and one for the wall lights.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Quinetic/Quinetic/index.html

I was pleased to find there is no delay whatsoever; I thought there might
be a noticeable fraction of a second, but that isn't the case. So overall
it does what it says on the tin, but there are some points for
consideration. In particular, somehow I got the gangs out of
synchronisation, so one was on when the top was pressed, the other on when
the bottom was pressed! This might be due to turning on and off too
quickly, or maybe an interfering signal confused the receiver.

Annoyingly, there is no through connection on the receiver for earth, so a
crimp or block is needed if the light fitting has to be earthed. Secondly,
as the switch came it was press the top to turn on the light, press bottom
to switch off. This seems a bit strange in the UK, and, as far as I can
see, the switch can't be mounted upside-down. The outer frame has
"Quinetic" printed on it for a start, which would look a bit odd
upside-down. However, the actual switch itself can be inverted in the
outer frame, except that the metal fixing plate only goes on one way, and
the switch might be loose if mounted upside-down. There is a way round
this, as the switch sends an identical signal for on and off. To get the
switch for top on or bottom on, or to get the gangs back in sync, make
sure the lights are off, then take the switch out of range of the
receiver, and set it the way you want it to be off. On returning, and in
range, it should then work correctly.

Finally, if you are going to use the Quinetic switch to replace a wired
switch faceplate screwed to a pattress you will need to purchase an
adapter plate so the Quinetic switch can be screwed to the pattress.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QURCP.html

The Hue system is a lot more flexible and still has those kinetic
switches if you want them. No receiver, its all done in the bulbs. So
no farting around at the bulb, just install the bulb in the usual way.
Much more flexible in what a particular switch actually does lights
wise. You can switch multiple bulbs, have one switch which turns
all the lights on in a particular area, and set the color temp or an
actual color too. Not as cheap, but much more flexible.

"Jeff Layman" wrote in message
...
On 06/04/19 16:30, Andy Bennet wrote:
On 06/04/2019 14:31, Jeff Layman wrote:


Can't see the powered switch receiver lasting 50 years.

Nor will I, unless life expectancy suddenly increases to 120, so I'm not
concerned.

But I wonder how well they are made? When testing had ended, and it was
confirmed they worked ok, the electrician nailed the wiring to the joists
with cable clips. With each blow of the hammer the lights flashed. That's
not too surprising considering that the receiver uses a relay to switch
the lights on. Are relays cheaper than triacs?

Nope, but last longer usually with that sort of use.

On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 10:37:13 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:



Nope,

LOL

--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing senile Rot:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID:

On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 10:30:11 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:



The Hue system is a lot more

Oh, no! Not that **** again! Do you have some sort of erotic connection to
your electrical gadgets, you abnormal lonely senile Ozzie pest?

--
FredXX to Rot Speed:
"You are still an idiot and an embarrassment to your country. No wonder
we shippe the likes of you out of the British Isles. Perhaps stupidity
and criminality is inherited after all?"
Message-ID:

On 06/04/19 17:28, wrote:
On Saturday, 6 April 2019 16:41:46 UTC+1, Jeff Layman wrote:
That's not too surprising considering that the receiver uses a
relay to switch the lights on. Are relays cheaper than triacs?

I wouldn't think so, but relays don't care about the load (within ratings). Triac circuits are sensitive to LED/CFL types.

I'm not arguing, but how then do Quinetic use their Dimmer receivers to
control the lights - Surely they use a triac? But it's interesting to
note that the Dimmer receivers are rated at only 150w for leds (300w for
other lighting), while the ordinary switches are rated at 1400w.

--

Jeff

On 06/04/2019 16:41, Jeff Layman wrote:
Are relays cheaper than triacs?
possibly not a lot in it but no issues with inductive loads or getting
killed when filament lamps blow.
Relays everytime.
I note they are doing dimming switches now so they will be triac based.

Dave W wrote:
It's a bad design if ON and OFF codes are the same. Interference
occurring during an ON or OFF would reverse subsequent switchings.

On the other hand, they support multi-way switching so I'm not sure how
else you could do it. If you've got three switches, and switch 1 sends
"up", the controller doesn't know whether to turn on or off unless it
knows the state of switches 2 and 3 (which it would have to store, as
the switches are unpowered unless you're pressing one - and missing an
event would make the stored state wrong). If every switch just sends
"change" when it's pressed, multi-way switching works as expected
without needing the controller to store the switch state. The function
would be clearer if it was a push-button rather than a rocker switch
(in fact there's a fob version that is), but they've obviously tried
to make it look as much like a conventional switch as possible.

Mike

Dave W wrote:

It's a bad design if ON and OFF codes are the same. Interference
occurring during an ON or OFF would reverse subsequent switchings.

99% of modern electronics seems to work like this, no way to tell if
you're turning something on or off. All you're sure of is that you
are (trying to) change its state.

--
Chris Green
·