I'm after a recommendation for a LED floodlight with inbuilt PIR BUT
with the additional override function - the type where the mains supply
to the light can be turned on-off-on within a short period so the the
light remains on until the mains is again turned off.

Friends have purchased two lights hoping they had this function but have
found that there is no override of the PIR timing function. 10W or 20W
will meet the requirement to light a maximum 10m area. Light pollion
for neighbours and passing planes will not be problem,


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 20:01:49 +0000, alan_m wrote:

I'm after a recommendation for a LED floodlight with inbuilt PIR BUT
with the additional override function - the type where the mains supply
to the light can be turned on-off-on within a short period so the the
light remains on until the mains is again turned off.

Friends have purchased two lights hoping they had this function but have
found that there is no override of the PIR timing function. 10W or 20W
will meet the requirement to light a maximum 10m area. Light pollion
for neighbours and passing planes will not be problem,

For mine I fitted a 2-gang plate, 1 switch for the PIR and 1 for direct-on.
Rand 3+E, with 1 wire to the lamp.
This gives me a local Off switch, but it could be done with a single 2-way
switch, one way via PIR and the other to the lamp. Needs another way of
fully off.
Note: my PIRs are seperate from the luminaires.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 14/03/2019 22:00, PeterC wrote:


For mine I fitted a 2-gang plate, 1 switch for the PIR and 1 for direct-on.
Rand 3+E, with 1 wire to the lamp.
This gives me a local Off switch, but it could be done with a single 2-way
switch, one way via PIR and the other to the lamp. Needs another way of
fully off.
Note: my PIRs are seperate from the luminaires.


Not an ideal solution. This will be going into a freinds' rented
property where and changes to the electrics cannot be DIY. Changing the
external 500W halogen floodlight for a "like for like" 10/20W using the
existing wiring and external junction box may not be noticed

The problem with some LED/PIR units advertised with a manual override is
that the manual override consists of setting the timer control to
maximum making it a simple on/off operation by applying/removing the
mains voltage. What is required is a normal PIR operation that is easily
overridden sometimes.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 14/03/2019 22:15, alan_m wrote:
On 14/03/2019 22:00, PeterC wrote:


For mine I fitted a 2-gang plate, 1 switch for the PIR and 1 for
direct-on.
Rand 3+E, with 1 wire to the lamp.
This gives me a local Off switch, but it could be done with a single
2-way
switch, one way via PIR and the other to the lamp. Needs another way of
fully off.
Note: my PIRs are seperate from the luminaires.


Not an ideal solution. This will be going into a freinds' rented
property where and changes to the electrics cannot be DIY. Changing the
external 500W halogen floodlight for a "like for like" 10/20W using the
existing wiring and external junction box may not be noticed

The problem with some LED/PIR units advertised with a manual override is
that the manual override consists of setting the timer control to
maximum making it a simple on/off operation by applying/removing the
mains voltage. What is required is a normal PIR operation that is easily
overridden sometimes.


I recently fitted one of these.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTUSF10MCW.html

Too soon for feedback on performance in practice but I was impressed by
the range of adjustments and by the way wireless remote worked from
inside the house (which allows manual override).



--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On Thursday, 14 March 2019 22:54:24 UTC, Robin wrote:

I recently fitted one of these.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTUSF10MCW.html

Too soon for feedback on performance in practice but I was impressed by
the range of adjustments and by the way wireless remote worked from
inside the house (which allows manual override).

Hi Robin,

I recently bought one of these (warm white instead of cool) however my remote needs pointing directly at the front of the light to operate it... It certainly wouldn't work from inside the house (yet I'd like it to!).

It sounds like your remote might a radio one? Mine definitely has an IR LED on the top of it. Here are some pics of my box and remote (labelled JIR2458) - is it the same as yours?

http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/tlcledlightbox.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent...ightremote.jpg

It is only reading Alan's original post that has made me realise that without a remote that can function from inside I too won't have a manual override!

On 14/03/2019 23:13, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 22:54:24 UTC, Robin wrote:

I recently fitted one of these.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTUSF10MCW.html

Too soon for feedback on performance in practice but I was impressed by
the range of adjustments and by the way wireless remote worked from
inside the house (which allows manual override).

Hi Robin,

I recently bought one of these (warm white instead of cool) however my remote needs pointing directly at the front of the light to operate it... It certainly wouldn't work from inside the house (yet I'd like it to!).

It sounds like your remote might a radio one? Mine definitely has an IR LED on the top of it. Here are some pics of my box and remote (labelled JIR2458) - is it the same as yours?

http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent/tlcledlightbox.jpg
http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/permanent...ightremote.jpg

It is only reading Alan's original post that has made me realise that without a remote that can function from inside I too won't have a manual override!


D'oh!

a. that is the same (save for the colour temp.)

b. I'm ashamed to say I didn't look at the remote, just misread the
specs. ("microwave sensor and remote control")

c. the remote does work from inside the house *but* only because the
sensor is in line of sight of the window over the drawer under where the
remote is stowed. It's a window with no fancy coatings on the glass
though, so even that's not guaranteed.

Move over Homer, there's a new chump on the block.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

"Robin" wrote in message
...
On 14/03/2019 22:15, alan_m wrote:
On 14/03/2019 22:00, PeterC wrote:


For mine I fitted a 2-gang plate, 1 switch for the PIR and 1 for
direct-on.
Rand 3+E, with 1 wire to the lamp.
This gives me a local Off switch, but it could be done with a single
2-way
switch, one way via PIR and the other to the lamp. Needs another way of
fully off.
Note: my PIRs are seperate from the luminaires.


Not an ideal solution. This will be going into a freinds' rented property
where and changes to the electrics cannot be DIY. Changing the external
500W halogen floodlight for a "like for like" 10/20W using the existing
wiring and external junction box may not be noticed

The problem with some LED/PIR units advertised with a manual override is
that the manual override consists of setting the timer control to maximum
making it a simple on/off operation by applying/removing the mains
voltage. What is required is a normal PIR operation that is easily
overridden sometimes.


I recently fitted one of these.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTUSF10MCW.html

Too soon for feedback on performance in practice but I was impressed by
the range of adjustments and by the way wireless remote worked from inside
the house (which allows manual override).

Wireless remotes arent a great idea with a rental property.

On 15/03/2019 01:23, Rod Speed wrote:


Too soon for feedback on performance in practice but I was impressed
by the range of adjustments and by the way wireless remote worked from
inside the house (which allows manual override).

Wireless remotes arent a great idea with a rental property.

I didn't realise that the remotes were intelligent enough to identify
which kind of property they are being used in.

In this case it is intended to be a long term rental (many yaers) with
intelligent users.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Fri, 15 Mar 2019 12:23:40 +1100, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:

Too soon for feedback on performance in practice but I was impressed by
the range of adjustments and by the way wireless remote worked from inside
the house (which allows manual override).

Wireless remotes arent a great idea with a rental property.

If someone wanted your opinion they would have rattled your cage, senile
bigmouth! tsk

On 14/03/2019 22:15, alan_m wrote:
On 14/03/2019 22:00, PeterC wrote:


For mine I fitted a 2-gang plate, 1 switch for the PIR and 1 for
direct-on.
Rand 3+E, with 1 wire to the lamp.
This gives me a local Off switch, but it could be done with a single
2-way
switch, one way via PIR and the other to the lamp. Needs another way of
fully off.
Note: my PIRs are seperate from the luminaires.


Not an ideal solution. This will be going into a freinds' rented
property where and changes to the electrics cannot be DIY.

You are not making a new circuit, and even covering the same path as the
old cable. You are allowed to 'extend' circuits in your own home, or as
far as I know even a rented one.

I have often wondered if between tenants, as an owner occupier, you
could carry out work that would normally need a certificate!

PIR separate is the way to go. So many folk round here seem to have them
inbuilt and apparently many can follow the path of the local fox as it moves
from garden to garden. grin.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"PeterC" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 14 Mar 2019 20:01:49 +0000, alan_m wrote:

I'm after a recommendation for a LED floodlight with inbuilt PIR BUT
with the additional override function - the type where the mains supply
to the light can be turned on-off-on within a short period so the the
light remains on until the mains is again turned off.

Friends have purchased two lights hoping they had this function but have
found that there is no override of the PIR timing function. 10W or 20W
will meet the requirement to light a maximum 10m area. Light pollion
for neighbours and passing planes will not be problem,

For mine I fitted a 2-gang plate, 1 switch for the PIR and 1 for
direct-on.
Rand 3+E, with 1 wire to the lamp.
This gives me a local Off switch, but it could be done with a single 2-way
switch, one way via PIR and the other to the lamp. Needs another way of
fully off.
Note: my PIRs are seperate from the luminaires.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway