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Default water pressu hammer/reducing valve?

Hello,

I have some water hammer caused by the washing machine and dishwasher.
Should I get some of those arrestors and fit one by each appliance?

I measured the water pressure and it is 4 bar. I'm sure I read here
that it is useful to have a pressure reducing valve set to reduce
incoming pressure to 3 bar. Is that right? Would that be a better
idea?

Thanks,
Stephen.
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Default water pressu hammer/reducing valve?

Stephen wrote:
Hello,

I have some water hammer caused by the washing machine and dishwasher.
Should I get some of those arrestors and fit one by each appliance?

I measured the water pressure and it is 4 bar. I'm sure I read here
that it is useful to have a pressure reducing valve set to reduce
incoming pressure to 3 bar. Is that right? Would that be a better
idea?

Thanks,
Stephen.


Before reducing you pressure have a dig around you CW system for any €śdead
legs€ť that might have become air filled. These can be a potent cause of
mains water hammers.

Tim

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Default water pressu hammer/reducing valve?

Tim+ laid this down on his screen :
Before reducing you pressure have a dig around you CW system for any €śdead
legs€ť that might have become air filled. These can be a potent cause of
mains water hammers.


Actually I would have expected the opposite - the bubble of air would
help buffer the the sudden surge in pressure, when a valve shuts
suddenly and the rushing water has nowhere to go.. Which is what causes
the hammering noise.
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Default water pressu hammer/reducing valve?

Jethro_uk wrote in
:

On Mon, 18 Feb 2019 10:57:00 +0000, Stephen wrote:

Hello,

I have some water hammer caused by the washing machine and
dishwasher. Should I get some of those arrestors and fit one by each
appliance?

I measured the water pressure and it is 4 bar. I'm sure I read here
that it is useful to have a pressure reducing valve set to reduce
incoming pressure to 3 bar. Is that right? Would that be a better
idea?

Thanks,
Stephen.


Fit an isolator and half-turn it ? When I redid all our plumbing I
fitted isolators as a matter of course anyway.



They can be noisy though.

Sometimes hammer can be due the the filler hose being too elastic.
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Default water pressu hammer/reducing valve?

Also some pipes that have dips in their runs or where the clips have failed.
Its amazing how much racket just a tiny vibration can cause. I often also
think that recent improvements in water pressure generally has exposed bad
joints and hence started to reveal leaks in the street etc.
Round here at least.
Water is a strange thing as it cannot really be compressed but any trapped
air of course does!
Brian

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"Tim+" wrote in message
...
Stephen wrote:
Hello,

I have some water hammer caused by the washing machine and dishwasher.
Should I get some of those arrestors and fit one by each appliance?

I measured the water pressure and it is 4 bar. I'm sure I read here
that it is useful to have a pressure reducing valve set to reduce
incoming pressure to 3 bar. Is that right? Would that be a better
idea?

Thanks,
Stephen.


Before reducing you pressure have a dig around you CW system for any "dead
legs" that might have become air filled. These can be a potent cause of
mains water hammers.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls





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Default water pressu hammer/reducing valve?

On Mon, 18 Feb 2019 15:13:43 -0000, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

Also some pipes that have dips in their runs or where the clips have failed.
Its amazing how much racket just a tiny vibration can cause


I'm sure unsupported or insufficiently supported pipe work is the
cause but it was fitted by a previous owner and is behind the kitchen
units and under floorboards, so I cannot do anything about it until I
have a major redecoration.

Thanks,
Stephen.
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Default water pressu hammer/reducing valve?

On Mon, 18 Feb 2019 13:01:39 GMT, DerbyBorn
wrote:

Fit an isolator and half-turn it ? When I redid all our plumbing I
fitted isolators as a matter of course anyway.



They can be noisy though.

Sometimes hammer can be due the the filler hose being too elastic.



Yes, I've heard that throttling the isolator can cause the flow to be
more noisy. I think the problem is that with washing machines and
dishwashers, the valve is either open or closed, so it is quite harsh
in it's operation; there's no gentle opening or closing of the valve,
like you do with a tap.

Thanks,
Stephen.
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