I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

The doorway has a Catnic lintel which defines the headroom, at present
there's a wooden doorframe below the Catnic which reduces the height
by a couple of inches, I *may* have to remove this to get the required
clearance but I hope not.

So what are my options for something that will not reduce the
clearance at the top of the doorway?

Obviously I could have plain swing doors on hinges and these can be
bought not too expensively but they always seem to get tatty and
wobbly fairly quickly. Are there any that are robust and last well
and would fit with top flush to a Catnic lintel?

I think the other possibility is a roller door, there is only about
300mm clearance between the top of the doors and the rafters though,
are there roller doors that will fit in this space?


--
Chris Green
·

In message , Chris Green
writes
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

The doorway has a Catnic lintel which defines the headroom, at present
there's a wooden doorframe below the Catnic which reduces the height
by a couple of inches, I *may* have to remove this to get the required
clearance but I hope not.

So what are my options for something that will not reduce the
clearance at the top of the doorway?

Obviously I could have plain swing doors on hinges and these can be
bought not too expensively but they always seem to get tatty and
wobbly fairly quickly. Are there any that are robust and last well
and would fit with top flush to a Catnic lintel?

I think the other possibility is a roller door, there is only about
300mm clearance between the top of the doors and the rafters though,
are there roller doors that will fit in this space?

If you are only looking for a couple of inches... could you slot or
lower the entrance?



--
Tim Lamb

On 02/02/2019 16:05, Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

The doorway has a Catnic lintel which defines the headroom, at present
there's a wooden doorframe below the Catnic which reduces the height
by a couple of inches, I *may* have to remove this to get the required
clearance but I hope not.

So what are my options for something that will not reduce the
clearance at the top of the doorway?

Obviously I could have plain swing doors on hinges and these can be
bought not too expensively but they always seem to get tatty and
wobbly fairly quickly. Are there any that are robust and last well
and would fit with top flush to a Catnic lintel?

I think the other possibility is a roller door, there is only about
300mm clearance between the top of the doors and the rafters though,
are there roller doors that will fit in this space?

I am sure I have seen roller doors where guides fit to the front of the
building rather than inside or in the opening and the roller mechanism
is contained in a neat housing that sits on the outside as well - like
some shops' roller shutters.

SteveW

On 02/02/2019 16:30, Steve Walker wrote:
On 02/02/2019 16:05, Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

The doorway has a Catnic lintel which defines the headroom, at present
there's a wooden doorframe below the Catnic which reduces the height
by a couple of inches, I *may* have to remove this to get the required
clearance but I hope not.

So what are my options for something that will not reduce the
clearance at the top of the doorway?

Obviously I could have plain swing doors on hinges and these can be
bought not too expensively but they always seem to get tatty and
wobbly fairly quickly.Â* Are there any that are robust and last well
and would fit with top flush to a Catnic lintel?

I think the other possibility is a roller door, there is only about
300mm clearance between the top of the doors and the rafters though,
are there roller doors that will fit in this space?

I am sure I have seen roller doors where guides fit to the front of the
building rather than inside or in the opening and the roller mechanism
is contained in a neat housing that sits on the outside as well - like
some shops' roller shutters.

SteveW

Hah, yes, see
https://www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.u...-doors-gallery
for a couple of examples (down at the bottom of the page).

SteveW

I have a roller door on my garage and the mechanism housing is 300mm tall and protrudes inside by the same amount. The drop on the door is 2m which I know for you is probably only half what you need but when rolled up there is not much space in the housing maybe get another roll on it at a push. At a guess to roll up say a 4m drop I would say you are looking at a housing at least 400 X 400mm taking into account that as the roll circumference increases more of the vertical drop is accounted for.

Richard

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Chris Green
writes
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

The doorway has a Catnic lintel which defines the headroom, at present
there's a wooden doorframe below the Catnic which reduces the height
by a couple of inches, I *may* have to remove this to get the required
clearance but I hope not.

So what are my options for something that will not reduce the
clearance at the top of the doorway?

Obviously I could have plain swing doors on hinges and these can be
bought not too expensively but they always seem to get tatty and
wobbly fairly quickly. Are there any that are robust and last well
and would fit with top flush to a Catnic lintel?

I think the other possibility is a roller door, there is only about
300mm clearance between the top of the doors and the rafters though,
are there roller doors that will fit in this space?

If you are only looking for a couple of inches... could you slot or
lower the entrance?

No, the existing up-and-over door eats up too much headroom, I need
just about the whole height below the Catnic, maybe a couple of inches
to spare.

--
Chris Green
·

Tricky Dicky wrote:
I have a roller door on my garage and the mechanism housing is 300mm tall
and protrudes inside by the same amount. The drop on the door is 2m which
I know for you is probably only half what you need but when rolled up there
is not much space in the housing maybe get another roll on it at a push.
At a guess to roll up say a 4m drop I would say you are looking at a housing
at least 400 X 400mm taking into account that as the roll circumference
increases more of the vertical drop is accounted for.

I only need a tiny bit over 2m, it's only a compact tractor! :-)

I have just on 300mm clearance inside above the door so yours would
probably work for me. What make is it?

--
Chris Green
·

Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

The doorway has a Catnic lintel which defines the headroom, at present
there's a wooden doorframe below the Catnic which reduces the height
by a couple of inches, I *may* have to remove this to get the required
clearance but I hope not.

So what are my options for something that will not reduce the
clearance at the top of the doorway?

Obviously I could have plain swing doors on hinges and these can be
bought not too expensively but they always seem to get tatty and
wobbly fairly quickly. Are there any that are robust and last well
and would fit with top flush to a Catnic lintel?

I think the other possibility is a roller door, there is only about
300mm clearance between the top of the doors and the rafters though,
are there roller doors that will fit in this space?

I just looked at the existing (up-and-over) door, if it was a simple
hinged door there would be enough clearance, it's the door hanging in
its open position that reduces the clearance too much.

Has anyone ever converted an up-and-over to hinges? It's a fairly
crude and simple galvanised door. I think it will be stiff enough, I
could add some bracing if necessary. What else might be significant
in trying to do this?

--
Chris Green
·

On 02/02/2019 16:05, Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

The doorway has a Catnic lintel which defines the headroom, at present
there's a wooden doorframe below the Catnic which reduces the height
by a couple of inches, I *may* have to remove this to get the required
clearance but I hope not.

So what are my options for something that will not reduce the
clearance at the top of the doorway?

Obviously I could have plain swing doors on hinges and these can be
bought not too expensively but they always seem to get tatty and
wobbly fairly quickly. Are there any that are robust and last well
and would fit with top flush to a Catnic lintel?

I think the other possibility is a roller door, there is only about
300mm clearance between the top of the doors and the rafters though,
are there roller doors that will fit in this space?



My factories had sectional doors, which are installed behind the opening
and go up into the space above it. That leaves the entire height and
width of the opening free:

https://www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.u...l-garage-doors

You could also have a 'round the corner' door, which, as the name
suggests, goes around the corner into the garage.

https://www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.u...nergaragedoors

--
--

Colin Bignell

On 02/02/19 16:33, Steve Walker wrote:
On 02/02/2019 16:30, Steve Walker wrote:
On 02/02/2019 16:05, Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

The doorway has a Catnic lintel which defines the headroom, at present
there's a wooden doorframe below the Catnic which reduces the height
by a couple of inches, I *may* have to remove this to get the required
clearance but I hope not.

So what are my options for something that will not reduce the
clearance at the top of the doorway?

Obviously I could have plain swing doors on hinges and these can be
bought not too expensively but they always seem to get tatty and
wobbly fairly quickly.Â* Are there any that are robust and last well
and would fit with top flush to a Catnic lintel?

I think the other possibility is a roller door, there is only about
300mm clearance between the top of the doors and the rafters though,
are there roller doors that will fit in this space?

I am sure I have seen roller doors where guides fit to the front of the
building rather than inside or in the opening and the roller mechanism
is contained in a neat housing that sits on the outside as well - like
some shops' roller shutters.

SteveW

Hah, yes, see
https://www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.u...-doors-gallery
for a couple of examples (down at the bottom of the page).

Autoroll do similar ones - mechanism inside or outside if required. I've
had mine 6 years without any problems at ll.
https://www.auto-roll.com/

--

Jeff

Chris Green wrote:
Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

The doorway has a Catnic lintel which defines the headroom, at present
there's a wooden doorframe below the Catnic which reduces the height
by a couple of inches, I *may* have to remove this to get the required
clearance but I hope not.

So what are my options for something that will not reduce the
clearance at the top of the doorway?

Obviously I could have plain swing doors on hinges and these can be
bought not too expensively but they always seem to get tatty and
wobbly fairly quickly. Are there any that are robust and last well
and would fit with top flush to a Catnic lintel?

I think the other possibility is a roller door, there is only about
300mm clearance between the top of the doors and the rafters though,
are there roller doors that will fit in this space?

I just looked at the existing (up-and-over) door, if it was a simple
hinged door there would be enough clearance, it's the door hanging in
its open position that reduces the clearance too much.

Has anyone ever converted an up-and-over to hinges? It's a fairly
crude and simple galvanised door. I think it will be stiff enough, I
could add some bracing if necessary. What else might be significant
in trying to do this?

A further possibility would be to convert from the existing 'canopy'
style door to a 'retractable' one which (if I understand them right)
takes a lot less vertical space. Does anyone have any idea where/how
I can find retractable door mechanisms sold by someone who actually
knows the answers to these sorts of questions?

--
Chris Green
·

"Nightjar" wrote in message
...
On 02/02/2019 16:05, Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

The doorway has a Catnic lintel which defines the headroom, at present
there's a wooden doorframe below the Catnic which reduces the height
by a couple of inches, I *may* have to remove this to get the required
clearance but I hope not.

So what are my options for something that will not reduce the
clearance at the top of the doorway?

Obviously I could have plain swing doors on hinges and these can be
bought not too expensively but they always seem to get tatty and
wobbly fairly quickly. Are there any that are robust and last well
and would fit with top flush to a Catnic lintel?

I think the other possibility is a roller door, there is only about
300mm clearance between the top of the doors and the rafters though,
are there roller doors that will fit in this space?



My factories had sectional doors, which are installed behind the opening
and go up into the space above it. That leaves the entire height and width
of the opening free:

https://www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.u...l-garage-doors

That site has the most pathetic photos of those doors I have ever seen.
Dont give a clear idea of how they actually work at all.

You could also have a 'round the corner' door, which, as the name
suggests, goes around the corner into the garage.

https://www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.u...nergaragedoors

That one is better.

On Sat, 2 Feb 2019 17:25:21 +0000, Chris Green wrote:

snip

Has anyone ever converted an up-and-over to hinges?

Nearly. I converted an up-and-over *doorway* to one with hinges by
making a new frame from angle and a tri-fold door set from box section
steel and steel sheet for the infill.

The main 'frame' was just the sides and the top (with some lighter
stuff across the bottom), made from 100 x 100 x 10mm steel angle and
so it only intruded into the opening by 10mm on the height (the lower
frame is recessed into the ground). The right hand door pair fold to
the right and that leaves me a personal door on the left to keep the
heat in if I'm working in there. ;-)

It wasn't a particularly 'easy' project but it works very well for my
needs.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. the up-and-over door my pre-fab-concrete garage came with was 8'
square and because so I only need just over 6' (6' 6") for the
personal door I put a bar across at that height and some skylights
above (one fixed, two opening). I did consider making that hinge up
from the bottom to give me the full height but as I have things
suspended from the roof (like material stock and folding boats) there
probably wouldn't be much point. ;-)

"T i m" wrote in message
...
p.s. the up-and-over door my pre-fab-concrete garage came with was 8'
square and because so I only need just over 6' (6' 6") for the
personal door I put a bar across at that height and some skylights
above (one fixed, two opening). I did consider making that hinge up
from the bottom to give me the full height but as I have things
suspended from the roof (like material stock and folding boats) there
probably wouldn't be much point. ;-)

Why is it that garages are still made with the doorway significantly
narrower than the garage itself? There's no advantage in a garage being wide
enough to open the car doors if you risk scraping the paint off the wings
every time you try to get the car in and out of the garage.

Likewise, a lot of double garages have two single doors (*) with a dirty
great brick plinth between them, when a good RSJ or concrete lintel should
be able to allow a double-width door. OK, a double door is heavier but that
just means it needs heavier counterweights or stronger counter-springs.


(*) So there is no advantage over two separate single garages.

Chris the manufacturer of my door is Autoroll UK Ltd.


www.autoroll.com

Richard

On Sun, 3 Feb 2019 10:44:54 -0000, "NY" wrote:

"T i m" wrote in message
.. .
p.s. the up-and-over door my pre-fab-concrete garage came with was 8'
square and because so I only need just over 6' (6' 6") for the
personal door I put a bar across at that height and some skylights
above (one fixed, two opening). I did consider making that hinge up
from the bottom to give me the full height but as I have things
suspended from the roof (like material stock and folding boats) there
probably wouldn't be much point. ;-)

Why is it that garages are still made with the doorway significantly
narrower than the garage itself?

I don't know. Mine was 8' and the garage is 10' and I'm not sure how
many cars are 8' wide? ;-)

But I agree with many modern / narrow garages the doors being even
*narrower* doesn't help (or is it that garages are the same with they
have always been and cars are getting wider).

There's no advantage in a garage being wide
enough to open the car doors if you risk scraping the paint off the wings
every time you try to get the car in and out of the garage.

Quite.

Likewise, a lot of double garages have two single doors (*) with a dirty
great brick plinth between them, when a good RSJ or concrete lintel should
be able to allow a double-width door. OK, a double door is heavier but that
just means it needs heavier counterweights or stronger counter-springs.

One (big) door would make sense to me if you still had a personal
door, weren't on the high road and didn't want to display the entire
contents to any passer by?


(*) So there is no advantage over two separate single garages.

Cheers, T i m

I think most of the roller door manufacturers will offer custom sizes 8' being the standard. My garage manufacturer offered custom door widths and they used Autoroll UK. I had mine widened to 9' because I have to approach the garage forwards at a slight angle and have to straighten up once partially inside.

Richard

On 02/02/2019 16:05, Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

How about this?:

1. Keep the existing doors.
2. Get an air pump.
3. Reduce tyre pressures.
4. Drive in.
5. Pump up tyres again.

And vice versa coming out again. Depending on how often you are parking
the tractor, this may be a lot less work than changing the doors.

GB wrote:
On 02/02/2019 16:05, Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

How about this?:

1. Keep the existing doors.
2. Get an air pump.
3. Reduce tyre pressures.
4. Drive in.
5. Pump up tyres again.

And vice versa coming out again. Depending on how often you are parking
the tractor, this may be a lot less work than changing the doors.

:-) You could be right, though the tractor is quite busy at times.

Anyway, thanks everyone for all the ideas, I'm still considering
options and welcome all input.

--
Chris Green
·

On 03/02/2019 13:39, Chris Green wrote:
GB wrote:
On 02/02/2019 16:05, Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

How about this?:

1. Keep the existing doors.
2. Get an air pump.
3. Reduce tyre pressures.
4. Drive in.
5. Pump up tyres again.

And vice versa coming out again. Depending on how often you are parking
the tractor, this may be a lot less work than changing the doors.

:-) You could be right, though the tractor is quite busy at times.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebbckGSSGGg

See around 1:40 onwards





Anyway, thanks everyone for all the ideas, I'm still considering
options and welcome all input.

"NY" wrote in message
o.uk...
"T i m" wrote in message
...
p.s. the up-and-over door my pre-fab-concrete garage came with was 8'
square and because so I only need just over 6' (6' 6") for the
personal door I put a bar across at that height and some skylights
above (one fixed, two opening). I did consider making that hinge up
from the bottom to give me the full height but as I have things
suspended from the roof (like material stock and folding boats) there
probably wouldn't be much point. ;-)

Why is it that garages are still made with the doorway significantly
narrower than the garage itself?

Its easier to do the front that way.

There's no advantage in a garage being wide enough to open the car doors
if you risk scraping the paint off the wings every time you try to get the
car in and out of the garage.

Ours arent that narrow.

Likewise, a lot of double garages have two single doors (*) with a dirty
great brick plinth between them, when a good RSJ or concrete lintel should
be able to allow a double-width door. OK, a double door is heavier but
that just means it needs heavier counterweights or stronger
counter-springs.

Doesn't work as well with triples and we have quite a few with those.

(*) So there is no advantage over two separate single garages.

A double garage is a lot better than two singles sided by side.

On Sun, 3 Feb 2019 13:23:46 +0000
GB wrote:

On 02/02/2019 16:05, Chris Green wrote:
I have bought a new (to me) tractor and to my pleasant surprise the
cab is lower than the ROPS system of my old tractor and thus the new
tractor will fit into my garage if I change the up and over door for
something providing more clearance.

How about this?:

1. Keep the existing doors.
2. Get an air pump.
3. Reduce tyre pressures.
4. Drive in.
5. Pump up tyres again.

And vice versa coming out again. Depending on how often you are
parking the tractor, this may be a lot less work than changing the
doors.


You beat me to it. :-)