Hi,
Despite central heating, I have discovered a creamy coloured mould in fitted wardrobes against north facing uninsulated interior cavity wall. Already has polystyrene sheet with wallpaper over it, have now fitted caged thermostat heaters each is 55w in the units and need to know what temperature to have these maintain to be stopping the mould but not putting out more heat than necessary and thus using up my limited finances., or drying up leather and rubber items etc and hobby paint. I dont want to be causing different damage to such things by too high a temperature.

Also fitted 8inch diameter (2 x 4") vents either end of unit and vents between the units within.

There has to be a minimum temperature one should aim for, what is it ?

Everything I read is about what temperature to make the room, thats no use to me, the room was already 21deg C 8am till 2am. I need to know what temperature will offset condensation inside a rarely opened wardrobe /storage unit. Its a wardrobe used for garment and object storage not an everyday wardrobe as such. I am in the room breathing out and sweating out moisture for the best part of the day as well.

I dont want to be told move it away from the wall either, its a fitted wardrobe and it stays where it is.

I have by the way THOROUGHLY cleaned out the surfaces, removed all items, nothing goes back in without being cleansed, garment bags replaced etc etc.

Just want to set the thermostats on the devices correctly.

I have max min thermostats in the units to establish the thermostat settings.

so are we talking 3 deg C . or 5 or 7 or 10 or what ????

Bob.

On Monday, 22 October 2018 18:19:29 UTC+1, Bob Charles wrote:
Hi,
Despite central heating, I have discovered a creamy coloured mould in fitted wardrobes against north facing uninsulated interior cavity wall. Already has polystyrene sheet with wallpaper over it, have now fitted caged thermostat heaters each is 55w in the units and need to know what temperature to have these maintain to be stopping the mould but not putting out more heat than necessary and thus using up my limited finances., or drying up leather and rubber items etc and hobby paint. I dont want to be causing different damage to such things by too high a temperature.

Also fitted 8inch diameter (2 x 4") vents either end of unit and vents between the units within.

There has to be a minimum temperature one should aim for, what is it ?

Everything I read is about what temperature to make the room, thats no use to me, the room was already 21deg C 8am till 2am. I need to know what temperature will offset condensation inside a rarely opened wardrobe /storage unit. Its a wardrobe used for garment and object storage not an everyday wardrobe as such. I am in the room breathing out and sweating out moisture for the best part of the day as well.

I dont want to be told move it away from the wall either, its a fitted wardrobe and it stays where it is.

I have by the way THOROUGHLY cleaned out the surfaces, removed all items, nothing goes back in without being cleansed, garment bags replaced etc etc..

Just want to set the thermostats on the devices correctly.

I have max min thermostats in the units to establish the thermostat settings.

so are we talking 3 deg C . or 5 or 7 or 10 or what ????

Bob.

The temp you need depends on the vapour content of the air - no-one can tell you. 55w isn't much but it might just be enough. Setting the stat to turn it off when it's warm enough to have the windows open in summer should suffice. So about 22C.


NT

On 22/10/2018 18:19, Bob Charles wrote:
Hi, Despite central heating, I have discovered a creamy coloured
mould in fitted wardrobes against north facing uninsulated interior
cavity wall. Already has polystyrene sheet with wallpaper over it,


Expanded polystyrene sheet? How thick?

Frankly that should be all you need - 3mm of EPS. Or cork tiles on the
unit's back

Or the wall.




have now fitted caged thermostat heaters each is 55w in the units and
need to know what temperature to have these maintain to be stopping the
mould but not putting out more heat than necessary and thus using up my
limited finances., or drying up leather and rubber items etc and hobby
paint. I dont want to be causing different damage to such things by too
high a temperature.


Also fitted 8inch diameter (2 x 4") vents either end of unit and
vents between the units within.

There has to be a minimum temperature one should aim for, what is it


The temperature that counts is the temperaturere of the surface that
suffer from condensation

I'd be inclined to have that above 10C



Just want to set the thermostats on the devices correctly.

There is no way to do that.

The thermostats will neither measure te room RH nor teh surface
tempoeratire,


I have max min thermostats in the units to establish the thermostat
settings.

so are we talking 3 deg C . or 5 or 7 or 10 or what ????

Bob.



--
"Anyone who believes that the laws of physics are mere social
conventions is invited to try transgressing those conventions from the
windows of my apartment. (I live on the twenty-first floor.) "

Alan Sokal

On 22/10/18 18:19, Bob Charles wrote:
Hi,
Despite central heating, I have discovered a creamy coloured mould in fitted wardrobes against north facing uninsulated interior cavity wall. Already has polystyrene sheet with wallpaper over it, have now fitted caged thermostat heaters each is 55w in the units and need to know what temperature to have these maintain to be stopping the mould but not putting out more heat than necessary and thus using up my limited finances., or drying up leather and rubber items etc and hobby paint. I dont want to be causing different damage to such things by too high a temperature.

Also fitted 8inch diameter (2 x 4") vents either end of unit and vents between the units within.

There has to be a minimum temperature one should aim for, what is it ?

Everything I read is about what temperature to make the room, thats no use to me, the room was already 21deg C 8am till 2am. I need to know what temperature will offset condensation inside a rarely opened wardrobe /storage unit. Its a wardrobe used for garment and object storage not an everyday wardrobe as such. I am in the room breathing out and sweating out moisture for the best part of the day as well.

I dont want to be told move it away from the wall either, its a fitted wardrobe and it stays where it is.

I have by the way THOROUGHLY cleaned out the surfaces, removed all items, nothing goes back in without being cleansed, garment bags replaced etc etc.

Just want to set the thermostats on the devices correctly.

I have max min thermostats in the units to establish the thermostat settings.

so are we talking 3 deg C . or 5 or 7 or 10 or what ????

Bob.

Have you thought of using a small dehumidifier inside the wardrobe?
Something like this:
https://www.argos.co.uk/product/5807428

Or even cheaper
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SUPVOX-Portable-Dehumidifier-Purifier-Deshumidificador/dp/B07HNX4KKZ/ref=sr_1_7?s=kitchen-appliances&ie=UTF8&qid=1540231027&sr=1-7&refinements=p_36%3A2500-7000
but it will need emptying more frequently.

Lots of similar types available.

They should cost around 10p a day to run if left on continuously.

--

Jeff

On 22/10/18 18:19, Bob Charles wrote:
Hi,
Despite central heating, I have discovered a creamy coloured mould in fitted wardrobes against north facing uninsulated interior cavity wall. Already has polystyrene sheet with wallpaper over it, have now fitted caged thermostat heaters each is 55w in the units and need to know what temperature to have these maintain to be stopping the mould but not putting out more heat than necessary and thus using up my limited finances., or drying up leather and rubber items etc and hobby paint. I dont want to be causing different damage to such things by too high a temperature.

Also fitted 8inch diameter (2 x 4") vents either end of unit and vents between the units within.

The ventilation will actually do a lot of good here.


There has to be a minimum temperature one should aim for, what is it ?




Everything I read is about what temperature to make the room, thats no use to me, the room was already 21deg C 8am till 2am. I need to know what temperature will offset condensation inside a rarely opened wardrobe /storage unit. Its a wardrobe used for garment and object storage not an everyday wardrobe as such. I am in the room breathing out and sweating out moisture for the best part of the day as well.

I dont want to be told move it away from the wall either, its a fitted wardrobe and it stays where it is.

I have by the way THOROUGHLY cleaned out the surfaces, removed all items, nothing goes back in without being cleansed, garment bags replaced etc etc.

Just want to set the thermostats on the devices correctly.

I have max min thermostats in the units to establish the thermostat settings.

so are we talking 3 deg C . or 5 or 7 or 10 or what ????

You might be best getting a humidity/termperature meter (with min/max on
both) and popping it in where the mould grew. What you want is to
prevent condensation. You may not need very much heat in a confined
space to achieve this.

Are your heaters safe for the environment? If they get covered by
something dropping onto them?

2mm thin polystyrene sheet on wall.
Did a lot of reading into this, first thoughts were dehumidifier, non electrical crystals variety microwave it every so often, forget to and I have mould, then electrical types, one per unit, still need emptying, and the fridge door being opened effect in winter when I open the door needs resolving, so then new plan of tackling the cause not treating the effect, a small heater which costs £4 a month is the correct approach.

22C though is too high, the room itself is target 21 with honeywell evo home. The thermostat on the unit you turn to max, then when the temperature in there is what you require, turn it until click, from then on it will maintain that temperature.

These are 55w hylite ecoheater with apparently a new more clever thermostat I was told patents applied for or something like that.

All I want to establish is, given my room usage, what to aim for 5C or 10C or ??
..
Yes it all depended on the humidity of the room, I presume 80% humidity would condense out at 8 whilst 40% would condense out at 5C, fictional figs but this is the tricky bit, working out just what I could aim it at, 5 or 8 or 10 or ??

Bob

no edit option in this forum, damn !
yes they have guards over them designed for the actual units with access to the thermostats.

Bob

On Monday, 22 October 2018 20:00:13 UTC+1, Bob Charles wrote:

2mm thin polystyrene sheet on wall.
Did a lot of reading into this, first thoughts were dehumidifier, non electrical crystals variety microwave it every so often, forget to and I have mould, then electrical types, one per unit, still need emptying,

of course

and the fridge door being opened effect in winter when I open the door needs resolving,

?

so then new plan of tackling the cause not treating the effect, a small heater which costs £4 a month is the correct approach.

that of course doesn't tackle the cause. Nor is it in any way more correct than other methods


22C though is too high, the room itself is target 21 with honeywell evo home.

22 is perfect then

The thermostat on the unit you turn to max, then when the temperature in there is what you require, turn it until click, from then on it will maintain that temperature.

If it clicks it's most likely an uncompensated bimetal stat, so I doubt it's that accurate


These are 55w hylite ecoheater with apparently a new more clever thermostat I was told patents applied for or something like that.

All I want to establish is, given my room usage, what to aim for 5C or 10C or ??
.
Yes it all depended on the humidity of the room, I presume 80% humidity would condense out at 8 whilst 40% would condense out at 5C, fictional figs but this is the tricky bit, working out just what I could aim it at, 5 or 8 or 10 or ??

Bob

I don't think you've understood my reply. Anyway you won't get enough temp rise from 55w for it to be worth worrying about.


NT

Anyway you won't get enough temp rise from 55w for it to be worth worrying about.


NT

the heat rods sold for wardrobes such as wardrobeheaters.co.uk or cupboard-heaters.co.uk are far less than 55w, goldenrod another said to be enough. That which I read said those 50w and higher are overkill, just need to raise the temperature a few degrees, no mention of having it hotter than the room.

18 wont cause condensation, neither will 15. electricity is the most uneconomical way of heating, if it had to be 22C then I would get three radiators plumbed in, and re-route the existing plumbing. No one I have read has said 22C. if the room gets to 21C and there is no mould in the room, why should I aim for 22C ?

It will dry out and ruin the items stored in there.

I am told the thermostat is a different design to those existing,

One thing to consider is when the wardrobe is stuffed full of its contents again, there is not much actual airspace to heat compared to the current empty space, 55W should be enough. Friend said in Hong Kong a 60W bulb was enough to tackle mould from the 100% humidity out there.

I still wish to know what temperature will avoid 80% humidity from allowing mould to grow.

Bob

On Monday, 22 October 2018 22:09:25 UTC+1, Bob Charles wrote:
Anyway you won't get enough temp rise from 55w for it to be worth worrying about.


NT

the heat rods sold for wardrobes such as wardrobeheaters.co.uk or cupboard-heaters.co.uk are far less than 55w, goldenrod another said to be enough. That which I read said those 50w and higher are overkill, just need to raise the temperature a few degrees, no mention of having it hotter than the room.

18 wont cause condensation, neither will 15. electricity is the most uneconomical way of heating, if it had to be 22C then I would get three radiators plumbed in, and re-route the existing plumbing. No one I have read has said 22C. if the room gets to 21C and there is no mould in the room, why should I aim for 22C ?

It will dry out and ruin the items stored in there.

I am told the thermostat is a different design to those existing,

One thing to consider is when the wardrobe is stuffed full of its contents again, there is not much actual airspace to heat compared to the current empty space, 55W should be enough. Friend said in Hong Kong a 60W bulb was enough to tackle mould from the 100% humidity out there.

I still wish to know what temperature will avoid 80% humidity from allowing mould to grow.

Bob

It's hard to know what to say if you're not learning from what's been said already.


NT

On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 12:00:11 -0700 (PDT), Bob Charles
wrote:

Yes it all depended on the humidity of the room, I presume 80% humidity would condense out at 8 whilst 40% would condense out at 5C, fictional figs but this is the tricky bit, working out just what I could aim it at, 5 or 8 or 10 or ??

80% measured at a temp of 21 °C condenses out at 15 °C. So the coldest point in
the wardrobe must be warmer than that.

Look up "dew point": the temperature at which the vapor condenses.


Thomas Prufer

On Tue, 23 Oct 2018 07:28:34 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

As others have said, there's no simple answer without knowing the
relative humidity in the wardrobe and the temperature of the wall.

If it were mine, I'd temporarily put a table lamp fitting on an
extension lead in there, fitted with say a 60W incandescent bulb,
permanently on, and see if it solves the problem. If not, up the
wattage; if it's OK then drop the wattage, until you find the minimum
wattage needed, then rig up something more permanent.

.... or get a "humidistat", with a plug, and run a slightly oversized heater from
that. Set it to, say, 50%, and this will heat the wardrobe to a temp where the
air has a relative humidity of 50%.

Note that the measurement of relative humidity will be off by +-5% or more on an
inexpensive unit.


Thomas Prufer

On 23/10/2018 07:28, Chris Hogg wrote:

If it were mine, I'd temporarily put a table lamp fitting on an
extension lead in there, fitted with say a 60W incandescent bulb,
permanently on, and see if it solves the problem. If not, up the
wattage; if it's OK then drop the wattage, until you find the minimum
wattage needed, then rig up something more permanent.

I have a boxed in area to one side of a chimney breast in my Victorian
solid-walled house, it has a gas meter in it. It always sufferred with
condensation until i put my Raspberry Pi music player (with 2 1TB disks
in an enclosure) into it. There can't be more than a few watts there,
but it seems to work.

On 22/10/18 20:02, Bob Charles wrote:
no edit option in this forum, damn !

It's not a forum.

It's USENET.

yes they have guards over them designed for the actual units with access to the thermostats.

OK.

Well where is the damp coming from?
The wall is the key, it starts with condensation which will surely be worse
the warmer the inside is nod as cold air holds less moisture, you get
condensation.
So really, I would want to know where the damp is from.
If its not in the heated air then its in the wall. Also of course when you
get mould, you find it hard to get rid of it as the spores are always in the
air.
I'm sure somebody well versed in diagnosing the source of this and how to
remove it for good will be along, but in my case the polystyrene on the
outside wall was part of the issue in that it kept itself damp and was a
growing medium once it got damp.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Bob Charles" wrote in message
...
Hi,
Despite central heating, I have discovered a creamy coloured mould in fitted
wardrobes against north facing uninsulated interior cavity wall. Already has
polystyrene sheet with wallpaper over it, have now fitted caged thermostat
heaters each is 55w in the units and need to know what temperature to have
these maintain to be stopping the mould but not putting out more heat than
necessary and thus using up my limited finances., or drying up leather and
rubber items etc and hobby paint. I dont want to be causing different damage
to such things by too high a temperature.

Also fitted 8inch diameter (2 x 4") vents either end of unit and vents
between the units within.

There has to be a minimum temperature one should aim for, what is it ?

Everything I read is about what temperature to make the room, thats no use
to me, the room was already 21deg C 8am till 2am. I need to know what
temperature will offset condensation inside a rarely opened wardrobe
/storage unit. Its a wardrobe used for garment and object storage not an
everyday wardrobe as such. I am in the room breathing out and sweating out
moisture for the best part of the day as well.

I dont want to be told move it away from the wall either, its a fitted
wardrobe and it stays where it is.

I have by the way THOROUGHLY cleaned out the surfaces, removed all items,
nothing goes back in without being cleansed, garment bags replaced etc etc.

Just want to set the thermostats on the devices correctly.

I have max min thermostats in the units to establish the thermostat
settings.

so are we talking 3 deg C . or 5 or 7 or 10 or what ????

Bob.

On Monday, 22 October 2018 18:19:29 UTC+1, Bob Charles wrote:
Hi,
Despite central heating, I have discovered a creamy coloured mould in fitted wardrobes against north facing uninsulated interior cavity wall. Already has polystyrene sheet with wallpaper over it, have now fitted caged thermostat heaters each is 55w in the units and need to know what temperature to have these maintain to be stopping the mould but not putting out more heat than necessary and thus using up my limited finances., or drying up leather and rubber items etc and hobby paint. I dont want to be causing different damage to such things by too high a temperature.

Also fitted 8inch diameter (2 x 4") vents either end of unit and vents between the units within.

There has to be a minimum temperature one should aim for, what is it ?

Everything I read is about what temperature to make the room, thats no use to me, the room was already 21deg C 8am till 2am. I need to know what temperature will offset condensation inside a rarely opened wardrobe /storage unit. Its a wardrobe used for garment and object storage not an everyday wardrobe as such. I am in the room breathing out and sweating out moisture for the best part of the day as well.

I dont want to be told move it away from the wall either, its a fitted wardrobe and it stays where it is.

I have by the way THOROUGHLY cleaned out the surfaces, removed all items, nothing goes back in without being cleansed, garment bags replaced etc etc..

Just want to set the thermostats on the devices correctly.

I have max min thermostats in the units to establish the thermostat settings.

so are we talking 3 deg C . or 5 or 7 or 10 or what ????

Bob.

What you need in there is a dehumidifier. (One of the chemical ones)

On 22/10/2018 20:00, Bob Charles wrote:
2mm thin polystyrene sheet on wall.

solid or EPS?


--
A lie can travel halfway around the world while the truth is putting on
its shoes.

On Monday, 22 October 2018 18:19:29 UTC+1, Bob Charles wrote:
Hi,
Despite central heating, I have discovered a creamy coloured mould in fitted wardrobes against north facing uninsulated interior cavity wall. Already has polystyrene sheet with wallpaper over it, have now fitted caged thermostat heaters each is 55w in the units and need to know what temperature to have these maintain to be stopping the mould but not putting out more heat than necessary and thus using up my limited finances., or drying up leather and rubber items etc and hobby paint. I dont want to be causing different damage to such things by too high a temperature.

Also fitted 8inch diameter (2 x 4") vents either end of unit and vents between the units within.

There has to be a minimum temperature one should aim for, what is it ?

Everything I read is about what temperature to make the room, thats no use to me, the room was already 21deg C 8am till 2am. I need to know what temperature will offset condensation inside a rarely opened wardrobe /storage unit. Its a wardrobe used for garment and object storage not an everyday wardrobe as such. I am in the room breathing out and sweating out moisture for the best part of the day as well.

I dont want to be told move it away from the wall either, its a fitted wardrobe and it stays where it is.

I have by the way THOROUGHLY cleaned out the surfaces, removed all items, nothing goes back in without being cleansed, garment bags replaced etc etc..

Just want to set the thermostats on the devices correctly.

I have max min thermostats in the units to establish the thermostat settings.

so are we talking 3 deg C . or 5 or 7 or 10 or what ????

Bob.

Excess humidity needs to be tackled at source.
Eg Cooker hood Extracting to outside. Extractor fan in shower.

On 23/10/2018 07:58, Chris Bartram wrote:
On 23/10/2018 07:28, Chris Hogg wrote:

If it were mine, I'd temporarily put a table lamp fitting on an
extension lead in there, fitted with say a 60W incandescent bulb,
permanently on, and see if it solves the problem. If not, up the
wattage; if it's OK then drop the wattage, until you find the minimum
wattage needed, then rig up something more permanent.

I have a boxed in area to one side of a chimney breast in my Victorian
solid-walled house, it has a gas meter in it. It always sufferred with
condensation until i put my Raspberry Pi music player (with 2 1TB disks
in an enclosure) into it. There can't be more than a few watts there,
but it seems to work.


A few watts in a confined space makes all the difference.

As any passif haus person will tell you.

IF teh wradrope has good inside to room insulation, then its not gonna
lose much heat.

And thats an issue. It stops the wardrobe getting warm from the room.
Thats where ventilation is key.

I have single glazing. The rooms with open fires and thwacking great
chimneys and underfloor vents do not get condensation.



--
Any fool can believe in principles - and most of them do!

On 22/10/2018 20:02, Bob Charles wrote:
no edit option in this forum, damn !

There's Cancel Message (except it doesn't do much).

--
Max Demian

On Tuesday, 23 October 2018 07:21:27 UTC+1, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 12:00:11 -0700 (PDT), Bob Charles
wrote:

Yes it all depended on the humidity of the room, I presume 80% humidity would condense out at 8 whilst 40% would condense out at 5C, fictional figs but this is the tricky bit, working out just what I could aim it at, 5 or 8 or 10 or ??

80% measured at a temp of 21 °C condenses out at 15 °C. So the coldest point in
the wardrobe must be warmer than that.

Look up "dew point": the temperature at which the vapor condenses.


Thomas Prufer

Sure, but that does not mean heating the interior to 15.


NT

On Tuesday, 23 October 2018 07:38:02 UTC+1, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Tue, 23 Oct 2018 07:28:34 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

As others have said, there's no simple answer without knowing the
relative humidity in the wardrobe and the temperature of the wall.

If it were mine, I'd temporarily put a table lamp fitting on an
extension lead in there, fitted with say a 60W incandescent bulb,
permanently on, and see if it solves the problem. If not, up the
wattage; if it's OK then drop the wattage, until you find the minimum
wattage needed, then rig up something more permanent.

... or get a "humidistat", with a plug, and run a slightly oversized heater from
that. Set it to, say, 50%, and this will heat the wardrobe to a temp where the
air has a relative humidity of 50%.

Note that the measurement of relative humidity will be off by +-5% or more on an
inexpensive unit.


Thomas Prufer

50% is unnecessarily low, 60% is low enough. Also such a scheme will fail to power down the heater in summer when it's not needed. A 22C stat would.


NT

On Tuesday, 23 October 2018 08:14:45 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
Well where is the damp coming from?

usually in the interior air, and derived mainly from cooking, showering, breathing. Ideally tackle that - but I would not really go along with suggestions to stop showering or breathing.

On Tuesday, 23 October 2018 08:21:26 UTC+1, harry wrote:
On Monday, 22 October 2018 18:19:29 UTC+1, Bob Charles wrote:
Hi,
Despite central heating, I have discovered a creamy coloured mould in fitted wardrobes against north facing uninsulated interior cavity wall. Already has polystyrene sheet with wallpaper over it, have now fitted caged thermostat heaters each is 55w in the units and need to know what temperature to have these maintain to be stopping the mould but not putting out more heat than necessary and thus using up my limited finances., or drying up leather and rubber items etc and hobby paint. I dont want to be causing different damage to such things by too high a temperature.

Also fitted 8inch diameter (2 x 4") vents either end of unit and vents between the units within.

There has to be a minimum temperature one should aim for, what is it ?

Everything I read is about what temperature to make the room, thats no use to me, the room was already 21deg C 8am till 2am. I need to know what temperature will offset condensation inside a rarely opened wardrobe /storage unit. Its a wardrobe used for garment and object storage not an everyday wardrobe as such. I am in the room breathing out and sweating out moisture for the best part of the day as well.

I dont want to be told move it away from the wall either, its a fitted wardrobe and it stays where it is.

I have by the way THOROUGHLY cleaned out the surfaces, removed all items, nothing goes back in without being cleansed, garment bags replaced etc etc.

Just want to set the thermostats on the devices correctly.

I have max min thermostats in the units to establish the thermostat settings.

so are we talking 3 deg C . or 5 or 7 or 10 or what ????

Bob.

What you need in there is a dehumidifier. (One of the chemical ones)

Those are the least effective of all the options. It's Harry.


NT

In article ,
wrote:
On Tuesday, 23 October 2018 08:14:45 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
Well where is the damp coming from?

usually in the interior air, and derived mainly from cooking, showering,
breathing. Ideally tackle that - but I would not really go along with
suggestions to stop showering or breathing.

Yes, I had wondered about the latter. Breathing in is fine, but breathing
out creates then problem

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message:
On 23/10/2018 07:58, Chris Bartram wrote:
On 23/10/2018 07:28, Chris Hogg wrote:

If it were mine, I'd temporarily put a table lamp fitting on an
extension lead in there, fitted with say a 60W incandescent bulb,
permanently on, and see if it solves the problem. If not, up the
wattage; if it's OK then drop the wattage, until you find the minimum
wattage needed, then rig up something more permanent.

I have a boxed in area to one side of a chimney breast in my Victorian
solid-walled house, it has a gas meter in it. It always sufferred with
condensation until i put my Raspberry Pi music player (with 2 1TB disks
in an enclosure) into it. There can't be more than a few watts there,
but it seems to work.


A few watts in a confined space makes all the difference.

As any passif haus person will tell you.

IF teh wradrope has good inside to room insulation, then its not gonna
lose much heat.

And thats an issue. It stops the wardrobe getting warm from the room.
Thats where ventilation is key.

I have single glazing. The

cold, draughty

rooms with open fires and thwacking great
chimneys and underfloor vents do not get condensation.


Fixed it for you ;-)

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Hi,
Source of rods/manufacturer say :-

The thermostat on the Hylite Slimline Heater is a simple and effective way of ensuring the heater does not operate (and consume power) when the room in which it is placed has reached an acceptable temperature.

The thermostat works in a similar way to that on a fan heater or a thermostatic control valve on a radiator i.e. the thermostat switches the power to the heater on or off dependent on the temperature of the heater itself.

At the minimum setting the heater switches itself on if its temperature falls below 20°C (temperature of the room will have fallen lower). It will switch itself off when it reaches around 50°C (although the temperature of the room will not have reached this temperature).

At the maximum setting the heater will stay on up to its maximum operating surface temperature of 83°C.

The only way to accurately control the temperature of a room is using a room thermostat (as are fitted to control central heating systems).

Room thermostats to control the Hylite Tube Heaters would be the type into which the heater is plugged, and which is then plugged into the mains (see photo). This type of thermostat monitors the temperature around the thermostat and when this falls outside the required temperature parameters, it switches power to the heater on or off dependent upon whether or not extra heat is required. F4 do not supply these thermostats but they are widely available online.

so I will get the thermos to go click at 18C within the 3 units and keep an eye on the temperature in those units with a min/max thermometer. Measure the KWh used , using an extension lead with such a gauge fitted, then see if 20C makes a price difference much.

I had originally thought put a socket in each unit but the electrician decided otherwise and the heaters are into a switch box one per unit. Thermostat on the heater will be behind stuff stored in there but the guard keeps that area clear.

Is this better than a non thermostat type rod and a thermostat into a socket ?

I didnt know one could get a humidistat but Tabb says such a scheme would fail to power down the heater in summer.

Keeping the moisture from condensing out with warmth and 4inch holes between units and 8inch holes at either end of the 3unit array rather than crystal passive dehumidifiers that need drying out and reinserting is the better way it would seem.

Its EPS, the stuff that breaks down into spheres etc, 2mm ish and its on the inside plastered wall with vinyl wallpaper over it. No cavity wall insulation as there is another house wall 1ft away on the outside so tricky to get to. Will have to try and lance fill it from attic with the grey beads or drill holes in wardrobe back wall but the rest of the wall in the room would have to be filled from above and percolate down.

Bob

On Wednesday, 24 October 2018 11:59:29 UTC+1, Bob Charles wrote:
Hi,
Source of rods/manufacturer say :-

The thermostat on the Hylite Slimline Heater is a simple and effective way of ensuring the heater does not operate (and consume power) when the room in which it is placed has reached an acceptable temperature.

The thermostat works in a similar way to that on a fan heater or a thermostatic control valve on a radiator i.e. the thermostat switches the power to the heater on or off dependent on the temperature of the heater itself.

At the minimum setting the heater switches itself on if its temperature falls below 20°C (temperature of the room will have fallen lower). It will switch itself off when it reaches around 50°C (although the temperature of the room will not have reached this temperature).

At the maximum setting the heater will stay on up to its maximum operating surface temperature of 83°C.

The only way to accurately control the temperature of a room is using a room thermostat (as are fitted to control central heating systems).

Room thermostats to control the Hylite Tube Heaters would be the type into which the heater is plugged, and which is then plugged into the mains (see photo). This type of thermostat monitors the temperature around the thermostat and when this falls outside the required temperature parameters, it switches power to the heater on or off dependent upon whether or not extra heat is required. F4 do not supply these thermostats but they are widely available online.

so I will get the thermos to go click at 18C within the 3 units and keep an eye on the temperature in those units with a min/max thermometer. Measure the KWh used , using an extension lead with such a gauge fitted, then see if 20C makes a price difference much.

I had originally thought put a socket in each unit but the electrician decided otherwise and the heaters are into a switch box one per unit. Thermostat on the heater will be behind stuff stored in there but the guard keeps that area clear.

Is this better than a non thermostat type rod and a thermostat into a socket ?

I didnt know one could get a humidistat but Tabb says such a scheme would fail to power down the heater in summer.

Keeping the moisture from condensing out with warmth and 4inch holes between units and 8inch holes at either end of the 3unit array rather than crystal passive dehumidifiers that need drying out and reinserting is the better way it would seem.

Its EPS, the stuff that breaks down into spheres etc, 2mm ish and its on the inside plastered wall with vinyl wallpaper over it. No cavity wall insulation as there is another house wall 1ft away on the outside so tricky to get to. Will have to try and lance fill it from attic with the grey beads or drill holes in wardrobe back wall but the rest of the wall in the room would have to be filled from above and percolate down.

Bob

So:

These things aren't what thermostatic usually refers to, the thermostat only limits case temp. This will not control wardrobe temp.

You're going to use these tiny heaters to warm the wardrobe, and at the same time have wacking great holes to cool them.


NT

On Wed, 24 Oct 2018 03:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Bob Charles
wrote:

I didnt know one could get a humidistat but Tabb says such a scheme would fail to power down the heater in summer.

If you'd plug a heater with thermostat set to (say) 22 °C into a humidistat, the
heat would come one only if the temperature is below 22°C and the humidity is
above the set value.

But you write:

the thermostat switches the power to the heater on or off dependent on the temperature of the heater itself.

which sounds more like a heater protection thermostat than a room thermostat...

A quick google turns up "Inkbird IHC-200UK" as a first hit, it says it has
humidity and temperature sensors -- have look at the instructions whether it
allows a temperature limit...


Thomas Prufer