My brother recently fitted a wardrobe in his house, he had some trouble with
the mitre corners of the pelmet and coving etc.

He was using a power mitre saw, the joints all seemed to be slightly out, is
there some trick the pro's use to hide this gap, (or avoid it in the first
place)

When doing the coving, the wardrobe length was about 6 inches longer than a
complete length, so he mitred the end and reverse mitred another piece to
fill the gap. This works well with dado rail as you can then sand it to hide
the gap, as this is laminated MDF (MFI furniture), it's not possible to sand
it. Would the best thing to do be to find a matching coloured filler or
should he have done this differently aswell.

Thanks

In article ,
jg wrote:
He was using a power mitre saw, the joints all seemed to be slightly
out, is there some trick the pro's use to hide this gap, (or avoid it
in the first place)

Well, either the wardrobe corners aren't 90 degrees or the mitres aren't
45. ;-)

If it's a cheap mitre saw with indents for 45 degrees I'd suspect it.

Mine doesn't have indents, so for accurate stuff I set it with 45 degree
'square'

I'd fill the gap with car body filler, carefully sand down and then paint
to match.

--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article , "jg"
says...
My brother recently fitted a wardrobe in his house, he had some trouble with
the mitre corners of the pelmet and coving etc.

He was using a power mitre saw, the joints all seemed to be slightly out, is
there some trick the pro's use to hide this gap, (or avoid it in the first
place)

When doing the coving, the wardrobe length was about 6 inches longer than a
complete length, so he mitred the end and reverse mitred another piece to
fill the gap. This works well with dado rail as you can then sand it to hide
the gap, as this is laminated MDF (MFI furniture), it's not possible to sand
it. Would the best thing to do be to find a matching coloured filler or
should he have done this differently aswell.

In this situation I'd have used a stepped lap joint

-------------+---------------
|
+----+
|
------------------+----------

or maybe a biscuit joint


-------------+-----------------
|
XXXXX
|
-------------+-----------------


For a corner mitre you can get better results with a combination
joint like so:

------------------/
/|
____/ |
| |
| |
-----------| |
| |
| |

The step locates the two pieces while the mitre hides the joint.
Anyone know the proper name for this one?

-------------+---------------
|
+----+
|
------------------+----------

or maybe a biscuit joint


-------------+-----------------
|
XXXXX
|
-------------+-----------------


For a corner mitre you can get better results with a combination
joint like so:

------------------/
/|
____/ |
| |
| |
-----------| |
| |
| |

The step locates the two pieces while the mitre hides the joint.
Anyone know the proper name for this one?

Hmm, is it my lack of knowlege on this subject or are these ASCII Arts
pictures a tad confusing.

Maybe they have not appeared here, quite as you entered them.

jg wrote:
-------------+---------------
|
+----+
|
------------------+----------

or maybe a biscuit joint


-------------+-----------------
|
XXXXX
|
-------------+-----------------


For a corner mitre you can get better results with a combination
joint like so:

------------------/
/|
____/ |
| |
| |
-----------| |
| |
| |

The step locates the two pieces while the mitre hides the joint.
Anyone know the proper name for this one?

Hmm, is it my lack of knowlege on this subject or are these ASCII Arts
pictures a tad confusing.

Maybe they have not appeared here, quite as you entered them.



You will be using a non proportional font (I don't know which one you'd
prefer to change it to, if indeed you want to change it at all) I tend
to use "Courier new" and look in a proportional font when I can't work
out what the ASCII art is.
To change fonts (in OE) Tools = Options = Read = Font and play about
in there.
For a momentary look at ASCII art try ctrl+f3 then maximise the window
that is shown

--
yours S

Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione

soup wrote:

You will be using a non proportional font (I don't know which one you'd
prefer to change it to, if indeed you want to change it at all) I tend
to use "Courier new" and look in a proportional font when I can't work
out what the ASCII art is.
To change fonts (in OE) Tools = Options = Read = Font and play about
in there.
For a momentary look at ASCII art try ctrl+f3 then maximise the window
that is shown

Right idea, although your description of proportional and non
proportional is back to front.

Proportinal fonts are ones like Times, Ariel etc. Non proportional are
ones like Courrier, Lucidia Console etc.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Rob Morley wrote in message

For a corner mitre you can get better results with a combination
joint like so:
------------------/
/|
____/ |
| |
| |
-----------| |
| |
| |

Anyone know the proper name for this one?

Bloody difficult ?
...with a mitre saw

jg wrote:

He was using a power mitre saw, the joints all seemed to be slightly out, is
there some trick the pro's use to hide this gap, (or avoid it in the first
place)

One of teo things I would guess - either the saw has not been correctly
set up - most of them need a bit of careful calibration to get the 45
degree angles spot on. Making light test cuts (i.e not right through but
just into the surface of a bit of wood, so that you then verify the
angle with an engineers square).

Or he was cutting the type of cove that is fixed at an angle. This makes
the cut a compound one - i.e. you need to place the cove in the saw and
hold it at the same angle as it will ultimately be fixed in before
cutting it.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article , "Mark" mark@
127.0.0.1 says...

Rob Morley wrote in message

For a corner mitre you can get better results with a combination
joint like so:
------------------/
/|
____/ |
| |
| |
-----------| |
| |
| |

Anyone know the proper name for this one?

Bloody difficult ?
..with a mitre saw

but not with a table saw, spindle moulder or a router ...

John Rumm wrote:
soup wrote:

You will be using a non proportional font (I don't know which one
you'd prefer to change it to, if indeed you want to change it at
all) I tend to use "Courier new" and look in a proportional font
when I can't work out what the ASCII art is.
To change fonts (in OE) Tools = Options = Read = Font and play
about in there.
For a momentary look at ASCII art try ctrl+f3 then maximise the
window that is shown

Right idea, although your description of proportional and non
proportional is back to front.

Yup mea culpa (I am easily confused).
--
yours S

Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione

Rob Morley wrote in message
t...
In article ,
For a corner mitre you can get better results with a combination
joint like so:
------------------/
/|
____/ |
| |
| |
-----------| |
| |
| |

Anyone know the proper name for this one?

Bloody difficult ?
..with a mitre saw

but not with a table saw, spindle moulder or a router ...

I would hope most people owning any of those would have worked out how to
cut a simple mitre joint that aligns :-)

"He was using a power mitre saw, the joints all seemed to be slightly out,
is
there some trick the pro's use to hide this gap, (or avoid it in the first
place) "