Hi,

I'm currently renovating the kitchen in my 1930s semi.

The existing water main comes in on a lead pipe that has an old dysfunctional stopcock inline and then a soldered piece of 15mm copper that connects to a compression ball valve.

This is the order of connectivity:

Lead pipe main Stopcock lead pipe 15mm copper (soldered to lead) 15mm compression ball-valve 15mm house main


The lead main comes in underfloor just below floor level through the brick. It then routes up above floor with the above assembly all visible, then loops back underfloor. The visible parts are in an area that's currently hidden by a cupboad, but the cupboard will soon go, so all needs to go underfloor (and will then be inaccessible due to new flooring etc)

I therefore need to shove the whole assembly underfloor out of the way. I really want to eliminate the old stopcock, as I don't trust its integrity, but that will mean cutting the lead pipe and connecting a new 15mm copper to it.

I'd then route the 15mm copper underfloor to a new concealed location where I'd bring it back above floor and connect a new brass stopcock.

So my questions:

1. Is Lead-loc recommended as a solution here to connect the lead main to new copper. I have read so much about them that's good, but also the odd negative comment that leaves me unconvinced. I really can't have a failure of connection once the new floor goes down - must be a reliable long term solution.

2. Maybe I could saw off the lead pipe outside the house (underground) and connect a leadloc there. At least I'd be able to get to it, if it fails at some point in the future. If I do that however, what would be the proper way to protect the coupling assemly underground and then bring the main into the house underground and through the wall below floor level ? Would I have to use a plastic main pipe ?


Thanks for reading and I hope all the above makes sense and there's an easy way out. I need to do this within the next week, so any input is appreciated.

cf

In article ,
cf-leeds wrote:
I therefore need to shove the whole assembly underfloor out of the way. I really want to eliminate the old stopcock, as I don't trust its integrity, but that will mean cutting the lead pipe and connecting a new 15mm copper to it.

Not difficult if you are used to soldering end feed fittings.

Simply clean the lead inside, push some copper tube up it, and solder
using low melting point solder. Perhaps practice first, as you have to be
careful not to melt the lead.

One of the first plumbing jobs I had to do in this house many years ago
due to a knackered Victorian stopcock. Before I'd ever used end feed
copper. And it is still fine some 40 years on.

--
*Strip mining prevents forest fires.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 01/10/2018 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
cf-leeds wrote:
I therefore need to shove the whole assembly underfloor out of the way. I really want to eliminate the old stopcock, as I don't trust its integrity, but that will mean cutting the lead pipe and connecting a new 15mm copper to it.

Not difficult if you are used to soldering end feed fittings.

Simply clean the lead inside, push some copper tube up it, and solder
using low melting point solder. Perhaps practice first, as you have to be
careful not to melt the lead.

One of the first plumbing jobs I had to do in this house many years ago
due to a knackered Victorian stopcock. Before I'd ever used end feed
copper. And it is still fine some 40 years on.


Shame the OP does not have the time to get a new plastic main.

Is there a risk of lead poisoning where fresh lead has been exposed with
the new join? This isn't an old wives tale, but maybe the risks are
exaggerated? I think you can get kits to test for lead or ask the water
company to test.

On Monday, 1 October 2018 00:16:56 UTC+1, cf-leeds wrote:
Hi,

I'm currently renovating the kitchen in my 1930s semi.

The existing water main comes in on a lead pipe that has an old dysfunctional stopcock inline and then a soldered piece of 15mm copper that connects to a compression ball valve.

This is the order of connectivity:

Lead pipe main Stopcock lead pipe 15mm copper (soldered to lead) 15mm compression ball-valve 15mm house main


The lead main comes in underfloor just below floor level through the brick. It then routes up above floor with the above assembly all visible, then loops back underfloor. The visible parts are in an area that's currently hidden by a cupboad, but the cupboard will soon go, so all needs to go underfloor (and will then be inaccessible due to new flooring etc)

I therefore need to shove the whole assembly underfloor out of the way. I really want to eliminate the old stopcock, as I don't trust its integrity, but that will mean cutting the lead pipe and connecting a new 15mm copper to it.

I'd then route the 15mm copper underfloor to a new concealed location where I'd bring it back above floor and connect a new brass stopcock.

So my questions:

1. Is Lead-loc recommended as a solution here to connect the lead main to new copper. I have read so much about them that's good, but also the odd negative comment that leaves me unconvinced. I really can't have a failure of connection once the new floor goes down - must be a reliable long term solution.

2. Maybe I could saw off the lead pipe outside the house (underground) and connect a leadloc there. At least I'd be able to get to it, if it fails at some point in the future. If I do that however, what would be the proper way to protect the coupling assemly underground and then bring the main into the house underground and through the wall below floor level ? Would I have to use a plastic main pipe ?


Thanks for reading and I hope all the above makes sense and there's an easy way out. I need to do this within the next week, so any input is appreciated.

cf

Lead pipes are bad news from a health point of view, especially if your water is soft. In hard water areas, a lining of lime appears on the pipe.
You should consider renewing it with HDPE (plastic pipe). Right back to the water main.
Lead really buggers up kids brains especially. You'll probably find lead paint in a 1930s house too.

Meanwhile, flush the toilet or run some water first thing every morning.
Gets rid of the water that's been in the lead pipe all night.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead_poisoning#Water

On 01/10/2018 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
cf-leeds wrote:
I therefore need to shove the whole assembly underfloor out of the way. I really want to eliminate the old stopcock, as I don't trust its integrity, but that will mean cutting the lead pipe and connecting a new 15mm copper to it.

Not difficult if you are used to soldering end feed fittings.

Simply clean the lead inside, push some copper tube up it, and solder
using low melting point solder. Perhaps practice first, as you have to be
careful not to melt the lead.

You can, of course, just buy a lead to copper coupler and use that instead.

One of the first plumbing jobs I had to do in this house many years ago
due to a knackered Victorian stopcock. Before I'd ever used end feed
copper. And it is still fine some 40 years on.



--
--

Colin Bignell

On 01/10/2018 01:11, GB wrote:
....
Shame the OP does not have the time to get a new plastic main.

Is there a risk of lead poisoning where fresh lead has been exposed with
the new join? This isn't an old wives tale, but maybe the risks are
exaggerated?Â* I think you can get kits to test for lead or ask the water
company to test.

I doubt that the amount of lead exposed will be a serious hazard and, if
it is a hard water area, it will quickly get covered again. If it is a
soft water area, the pipe needs complete replacement.

One problem with lead incoming pipes is that they are very vulnerable to
ground movement, which can reduce the flow or produce leaks.


--
--

Colin Bignell

On 01/10/2018 00:16, cf-leeds wrote:
Hi,

I'm currently renovating the kitchen in my 1930s semi.

The existing water main comes in on a lead pipe that has an old dysfunctional stopcock inline and then a soldered piece of 15mm copper that connects to a compression ball valve.

This is the order of connectivity:

Lead pipe main Stopcock lead pipe 15mm copper (soldered to lead) 15mm compression ball-valve 15mm house main


The lead main comes in underfloor just below floor level through the brick. It then routes up above floor with the above assembly all visible, then loops back underfloor. The visible parts are in an area that's currently hidden by a cupboad, but the cupboard will soon go, so all needs to go underfloor (and will then be inaccessible due to new flooring etc)

I therefore need to shove the whole assembly underfloor out of the way. I really want to eliminate the old stopcock, as I don't trust its integrity, but that will mean cutting the lead pipe and connecting a new 15mm copper to it.

I'd then route the 15mm copper underfloor to a new concealed location where I'd bring it back above floor and connect a new brass stopcock.

So my questions:

1. Is Lead-loc recommended as a solution here to connect the lead main to new copper. I have read so much about them that's good, but also the odd negative comment that leaves me unconvinced. I really can't have a failure of connection once the new floor goes down - must be a reliable long term solution.

2. Maybe I could saw off the lead pipe outside the house (underground) and connect a leadloc there. At least I'd be able to get to it, if it fails at some point in the future. If I do that however, what would be the proper way to protect the coupling assemly underground and then bring the main into the house underground and through the wall below floor level ? Would I have to use a plastic main pipe ?


Thanks for reading and I hope all the above makes sense and there's an easy way out. I need to do this within the next week, so any input is appreciated.

Connecting outside would be the better option. Replacing the whole
incoming pipe would be best. Old lead pipe incomers are unreliable, as
they an be affected by ground movement.

A plastic main would be the obvious answer, but you can get PVC coated
copper, if you prefer that - just don't use yellow, which is the colour
for gas. If you do make a connection outside, you can use heat shrink
sleeving over the connector to protect it.



--
--

Colin Bignell

Nightjar wrote:
On 01/10/2018 00:16, cf-leeds wrote:
Hi,

I'm currently renovating the kitchen in my 1930s semi.

The existing water main comes in on a lead pipe that has an old
dysfunctional stopcock inline and then a soldered piece of 15mm copper
that connects to a compression ball valve.

This is the order of connectivity:

Lead pipe main Stopcock lead pipeÂ* 15mm copper (soldered to
lead) 15mm compression ball-valve 15mm house main


The lead main comes in underfloor just below floor level through the
brick. It then routes up above floor with the above assembly all
visible, then loops back underfloor. The visible parts are in an area
that's currently hidden by a cupboad, but the cupboard will soon go,
so all needs to go underfloor (and will then be inaccessible due to
new flooring etc)

I therefore need to shove the whole assembly underfloor out of the
way. I really want to eliminate the old stopcock, as I don't trust its
integrity, but that will mean cutting the lead pipe and connecting a
new 15mm copper to it.

I'd then route the 15mm copper underfloor to a new concealed location
where I'd bring it back above floor and connect a new brass stopcock.

So my questions:

1. Is Lead-loc recommended as a solution here to connect the lead main
to new copper. I have read so much about them that's good, but also
the odd negative comment that leaves me unconvinced. I really can't
have a failure of connection once the new floor goes down - must be a
reliable long term solution.

2. Maybe I could saw off the lead pipe outside the house (underground)
and connect a leadloc there. At least I'd be able to get to it, if it
fails at some point in the future. If I do that however, what would be
the proper way to protect the coupling assemly underground and then
bring the main into the house underground and through the wall below
floor level ? Would I have to use a plastic main pipe ?


Thanks for reading and I hope all the above makes sense and there's an
easy way out. I need to do this within the next week, so any input is
appreciated.

Connecting outside would be the better option. Replacing the whole
incoming pipe would be best. Old lead pipe incomers are unreliable, as
they an be affected by ground movement.

A plastic main would be the obvious answer, but you can get PVC coated
copper, if you prefer that - just don't use yellow, which is the colour
for gas. If you do make a connection outside, you can use heat shrink
sleeving over the connector to protect it.



He should bring copper or plastic (I am old fashioned and prefer
copper)outside and then he has tons of time to think about replacing all
the lead

On 01/10/2018 00:16, cf-leeds wrote:

So my questions:

1. Is Lead-loc recommended as a solution here to connect the lead
main to new copper. I have read so much about them that's good, but
also the odd negative comment that leaves me unconvinced. I really
can't have a failure of connection once the new floor goes down -
must be a reliable long term solution.

I have used them a couple of times, and they have always worked well (so
far at least!).

2. Maybe I could saw off the lead pipe outside the house
(underground) and connect a leadloc there. At least I'd be able to
get to it, if it fails at some point in the future. If I do that
however, what would be the proper way to protect the coupling assemly
underground and then bring the main into the house underground and
through the wall below floor level ? Would I have to use a plastic
main pipe ?

You could use a Philmac universal transition fitting, to go from lead to
MDPE, and then from that to copper inside the house. The fitting and
MDPE would need no further protection when buried.

e.g:

http://www.philmac.co.uk/products/?pg=3&pid=289

As others have said, going MDPE back to the water main would be ideal -
better flow rate than you are likely to get with the lead incomer. Might
be worth chatting to the water supplier to see if there is any subsidsed
option for lead replacement, or at least to find out what a new
connection to the main would cost.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 01/10/2018 09:22, Nightjar wrote:


I doubt that the amount of lead exposed will be a serious hazard and, if
it is a hard water area, it will quickly get covered again. If it is a
soft water area, the pipe needs complete replacement.

In soft water areas don't the UK water companies add something to the
supply to help prevent the problem?

The consequences of not doing so
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flint_water_crisis



--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

In article ,
harry wrote:
Meanwhile, flush the toilet or run some water first thing every morning.
Gets rid of the water that's been in the lead pipe all night.

Houses with lead pipes anywhere might well still have a storage system.

Running water off the drinking water tap would be the way to go.

Remember hearing of someone who was concerned about lead pipes in a soft
water area. Test conducted over a number of weeks showed it well within
spec.

Of course no-one would use lead these days. But really not sure of how
much a hazard it is for water pipes in practice.

--
*You never really learn to swear until you learn to drive *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Nightjar wrote:
Simply clean the lead inside, push some copper tube up it, and solder
using low melting point solder. Perhaps practice first, as you have to
be careful not to melt the lead.

You can, of course, just buy a lead to copper coupler and use that
instead.

I'm sure you can. But with all such things, not sure about the long term
reliability.

--
*Eschew obfuscation *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 01/10/2018 10:05, John Rumm wrote:
On 01/10/2018 00:16, cf-leeds wrote:

So my questions:

1. Is Lead-loc recommended as a solution here to connect the lead
main to new copper. I have read so much about them that's good, but
also the odd negative comment that leaves me unconvinced. I really
can't have a failure of connection once the new floor goes down -
must be a reliable long term solution.

I have used them a couple of times, and they have always worked well (so
far at least!).

2. Maybe I could saw off the lead pipe outside the house
(underground) and connect a leadloc there. At least I'd be able to
get to it, if it fails at some point in the future. If I do that
however, what would be the proper way to protect the coupling assemly
underground and then bring the main into the house underground and
through the wall below floor level ? Would I have to use a plastic
main pipe ?

You could use a Philmac universal transition fitting, to go from lead to
MDPE, and then from that to copper inside the house. The fitting and
MDPE would need no further protection when buried.

e.g:

http://www.philmac.co.uk/products/?pg=3&pid=289

As others have said, going MDPE back to the water main would be ideal -
better flow rate than you are likely to get with the lead incomer. Might
be worth chatting to the water supplier to see if there is any subsidsed
option for lead replacement, or at least to find out what a new
connection to the main would cost.

+1.

cf-leeds laid this down on his screen :
The existing water main comes in on a lead pipe that has an old dysfunctional
stopcock inline and then a soldered piece of 15mm copper that connects to a
compression ball valve.

I read/heard somewhere that if you notify Yorkshire Water that you have
an old lead pipe to the house, they will change it free of charge. Give
them a ring and ask.

On 01/10/2018 10:56, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
cf-leeds laid this down on his screen :
The existing water main comes in on a lead pipe that has an old
dysfunctional stopcock inline and then a soldered piece of 15mm copper
that connects to a compression ball valve.

I read/heard somewhere that if you notify Yorkshire Water that you have
an old lead pipe to the house, they will change it free of charge. Give
them a ring and ask.

Spot on! "We will replace the lead communication pipe and install a new
stop tap at the boundary of the street in which
the main in laid free of charge, provided that you replace your own lead
supply pipe." And here's the application form.

https://www.yorkshirewater.com/sites...eplacement.pdf

On 01/10/2018 11:33, GB wrote:
On 01/10/2018 10:56, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
cf-leeds laid this down on his screen :
The existing water main comes in on a lead pipe that has an old
dysfunctional stopcock inline and then a soldered piece of 15mm
copper that connects to a compression ball valve.

I read/heard somewhere that if you notify Yorkshire Water that you
have an old lead pipe to the house, they will change it free of
charge. Give them a ring and ask.

Spot on!* "We will replace the lead communication pipe and install a new
stop tap at the boundary of the street in which
the main in laid free of charge, provided that you replace your own lead
supply pipe." And here's the application form.

https://www.yorkshirewater.com/sites...eplacement.pdf


To me, that reads as if they will only replace any lead pipe *before*
the external stopcock and the householder is still responsible for
replacing the bit between there and their house.

--
--

Colin Bignell

On 01/10/2018 11:53, Nightjar wrote:
lead communication pipe


I wonder what that means?

On 01/10/2018 12:57, GB wrote:
On 01/10/2018 11:53, Nightjar wrote:
lead communication pipe


I wonder what that means?



The part of the service pipe that links the water main in the street to
the stop valve outside your
property belongs to the water company. This is known as the
communication pipe.

The part of the service pipe leading from the stop valve outside your
property to the point where it
enters your home is the responsibility of the owner. This is known as
the private or supply pipe.

All the plumbing inside your home to the kitchen tap is the
responsibility of the property owner.



So, it looks like you are right and I was overoptimistic.

On 01/10/2018 11:33, GB wrote:
On 01/10/2018 10:56, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
cf-leeds laid this down on his screen :
The existing water main comes in on a lead pipe that has an old
dysfunctional stopcock inline and then a soldered piece of 15mm
copper that connects to a compression ball valve.

I read/heard somewhere that if you notify Yorkshire Water that you
have an old lead pipe to the house, they will change it free of
charge. Give them a ring and ask.

Spot on!* "We will replace the lead communication pipe and install a new
stop tap at the boundary of the street in which
the main in laid free of charge, provided that you replace your own lead
supply pipe." And here's the application form.

https://www.yorkshirewater.com/sites...eplacement.pdf



Doesn't this just state that if you replace the lead pipe from your
house to the property boundary the water company will replace their part
of the supply to this property boundary. They will fit a new stop cock
in the pavement outside of your property boundary (possibly also
including a inbuilt meter).

Essex water has a diagram on
https://www.eswater.co.uk/_assets/do...ril_2012_A.pdf
showing their pipe and your pipe.



--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 01/10/2018 13:48, alan_m wrote:
On 01/10/2018 11:33, GB wrote:
On 01/10/2018 10:56, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
cf-leeds laid this down on his screen :
The existing water main comes in on a lead pipe that has an old
dysfunctional stopcock inline and then a soldered piece of 15mm
copper that connects to a compression ball valve.

I read/heard somewhere that if you notify Yorkshire Water that you
have an old lead pipe to the house, they will change it free of
charge. Give them a ring and ask.

Spot on!* "We will replace the lead communication pipe and install a
new stop tap at the boundary of the street in which
the main in laid free of charge, provided that you replace your own
lead supply pipe." And here's the application form.

https://www.yorkshirewater.com/sites...eplacement.pdf



Doesn't this just state that if you replace the lead pipe from your
house to the property boundary the water company will replace their part
of the supply to this property boundary. They will fit a new stop cock
in the pavement outside of your property boundary (possibly also
including a inbuilt meter).

Essex water has a diagram on
https://www.eswater.co.uk/_assets/do...ril_2012_A.pdf

showing their pipe and your pipe.


Sorry, yes, I've already recanted! See above/below (depending on how you
order posts).

On 01/10/2018 09:22, Nightjar wrote:
On 01/10/2018 01:11, GB wrote:
...
Shame the OP does not have the time to get a new plastic main.

Is there a risk of lead poisoning where fresh lead has been exposed
with the new join? This isn't an old wives tale, but maybe the risks
are exaggerated?Â* I think you can get kits to test for lead or ask the
water company to test.

I doubt that the amount of lead exposed will be a serious hazard and, if
it is a hard water area, it will quickly get covered again. If it is a
soft water area, the pipe needs complete replacement.

One problem with lead incoming pipes is that they are very vulnerable to
ground movement, which can reduce the flow or produce leaks.

Some years ago I know of one family advised to run the cold tap for 2
minutes in the morning to remove any lead solutes before drinking the water.

Lead is a neurotoxin, and its not viewed by many to there being a
coincidence for the rise and fall of certain types of crime consistent
with leaded petrol use.

However the body is able to excrete low levels of lead.

In article , Fredxx
writes
On 01/10/2018 09:22, Nightjar wrote:
On 01/10/2018 01:11, GB wrote:
...
Shame the OP does not have the time to get a new plastic main.

Is there a risk of lead poisoning where fresh lead has been exposed
with the new join? This isn't an old wives tale, but maybe the risks
are exaggerated?* I think you can get kits to test for lead or ask
the water company to test.
I doubt that the amount of lead exposed will be a serious hazard
and, if it is a hard water area, it will quickly get covered again.
If it is a soft water area, the pipe needs complete replacement.
One problem with lead incoming pipes is that they are very
vulnerable to ground movement, which can reduce the flow or produce
leaks.

Some years ago I know of one family advised to run the cold tap for 2
minutes in the morning to remove any lead solutes before drinking the
water.

That was always the rule in old houses.
Lead is a neurotoxin, and its not viewed by many to there being a
coincidence for the rise and fall of certain types of crime consistent
with leaded petrol use.

However the body is able to excrete low levels of lead.

--
bert

On Monday, October 1, 2018 at 10:05:58 AM UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 01/10/2018 00:16, cf-leeds wrote:

So my questions:

1. Is Lead-loc recommended as a solution here to connect the lead
main to new copper. I have read so much about them that's good, but
also the odd negative comment that leaves me unconvinced. I really
can't have a failure of connection once the new floor goes down -
must be a reliable long term solution.

I have used them a couple of times, and they have always worked well (so
far at least!).

2. Maybe I could saw off the lead pipe outside the house
(underground) and connect a leadloc there. At least I'd be able to
get to it, if it fails at some point in the future. If I do that
however, what would be the proper way to protect the coupling assemly
underground and then bring the main into the house underground and
through the wall below floor level ? Would I have to use a plastic
main pipe ?

You could use a Philmac universal transition fitting, to go from lead to
MDPE, and then from that to copper inside the house. The fitting and
MDPE would need no further protection when buried.

e.g:

http://www.philmac.co.uk/products/?pg=3&pid=289

As others have said, going MDPE back to the water main would be ideal -
better flow rate than you are likely to get with the lead incomer. Might
be worth chatting to the water supplier to see if there is any subsidsed
option for lead replacement, or at least to find out what a new
connection to the main would cost.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


Thanks for all the responses - lots to think about. I just did a check and Yorkshire Water class my supply as "moderately hard". So that's good to know. As others have confirmed, I don't think YW will change the old pipe between the meter and the property for free.


So I'm now thinking that I can use a Universal Transition Coupling outdoor and connect an MDPE pipe through the wall to a 15mm copper connector inside underfloor. I can then consider replacing the long lead pipe, which rund the length of a long drive at a later date.

I calculated the lead pipe under the floorboard using a piece of paper and pi - It seems to be about one inch diameter.

I notice that the Philmac couplers only start at 27-34mm for a one inch coupling. Is there another brand that would reduce one inch lead straight down to 15mm, or even 22mm ?

Assuming I've understood the product spec properly.

Thanks in advance.

On 01/10/2018 10:24, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
harry wrote:
Meanwhile, flush the toilet or run some water first thing every morning.
Gets rid of the water that's been in the lead pipe all night.

Houses with lead pipes anywhere might well still have a storage system.

Running water off the drinking water tap would be the way to go.

Remember hearing of someone who was concerned about lead pipes in a soft
water area. Test conducted over a number of weeks showed it well within
spec.

The water companies were adding phosphates to prevent lead leaching into
the soft water. The standards tightened in 2013 and they are probably
using something else now.

SteveW

"Pamela" wrote in message
...
On 10:24 1 Oct 2018, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article
,
harry wrote:
Meanwhile, flush the toilet or run some water first thing every
morning. Gets rid of the water that's been in the lead pipe all
night.

Houses with lead pipes anywhere might well still have a storage
system.

Running water off the drinking water tap would be the way to go.

Remember hearing of someone who was concerned about lead pipes in
a soft water area. Test conducted over a number of weeks showed it
well within spec.

Are there any decent home testing kits?

Its not possible to do that with a home test kit.

Many of the ones listed on
Amazon have suspicious reviews.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Watersafe-Test/dp/B000Q6QWZA

On Wed, 3 Oct 2018 06:01:45 +1000, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:


Its not possible to do that with a home test kit.

Many of the ones listed on

Did you HAVE to **** also in this thread, you incontinent senile
"argumentative asshole"?

--
Sqwertz to Rot Speed:
"This is just a hunch, but I'm betting you're kinda an argumentative
asshole.
MID:

In article ,
Steve Walker wrote:
The water companies were adding phosphates to prevent lead leaching into
the soft water. The standards tightened in 2013 and they are probably
using something else now.

Ages ago, I did some plumbing work in my parents house - in a soft water
area. Removed some 50 year old lead pipes. And it appeared to be in
perfect condition inside - the cold drawing or whatever marks still there.
If lead dissolved in the water, I'd have expected signs of this?

--
*Home cooking. Where many a man thinks his wife is.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 04/10/2018 13:53, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Steve Walker wrote:
The water companies were adding phosphates to prevent lead leaching into
the soft water. The standards tightened in 2013 and they are probably
using something else now.

Ages ago, I did some plumbing work in my parents house - in a soft water
area. Removed some 50 year old lead pipes. And it appeared to be in
perfect condition inside - the cold drawing or whatever marks still there.
If lead dissolved in the water, I'd have expected signs of this?

I don't think that lead is very soluble, but equally it doesn't take
much to poison somebody.