To safe my marriage, I need to move my new beer brewing machine from kitchen
to bathroom - that's a mere 10 metres for an extn lead. The maximum heating
element drain on the brewer (if that's the right word) is 2200 watts.

The following Youtube guy, has been banished to the garden (in February !!),
he's using an extension but hasn't mentioned the extensions' rating. See
Brewday # 1, fast-forward to about 18 minutes :-

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ndering+brewer

So what's the minimum rating for a suitable 10 metre lead - 10, 15 or 20 amp
please. TIA.

Bertie Doe formulated the question :
To safe my marriage, I need to move my new beer brewing machine from kitchen
to bathroom - that's a mere 10 metres for an extn lead. The maximum heating
element drain on the brewer (if that's the right word) is 2200 watts.

The following Youtube guy, has been banished to the garden (in February !!),
he's using an extension but hasn't mentioned the extensions' rating. See
Brewday # 1, fast-forward to about 18 minutes :-

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ndering+brewer

So what's the minimum rating for a suitable 10 metre lead - 10, 15 or 20 amp
please. TIA.

10amp should cope with that.

It happens that Harry Bloomfield formulated :
10amp should cope with that.

But usually it will be a 13amp rated extension. Make it is supplied via
an RCD and the lead is fully uncoiled too.

On Tuesday, 25 September 2018 10:41:38 UTC+1, Bertie Doe wrote:
To safe my marriage, I need to move my new beer brewing machine from kitchen
to bathroom - that's a mere 10 metres for an extn lead. The maximum heating
element drain on the brewer (if that's the right word) is 2200 watts.

The following Youtube guy, has been banished to the garden (in February !!),
he's using an extension but hasn't mentioned the extensions' rating. See
Brewday # 1, fast-forward to about 18 minutes :-

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ndering+brewer

So what's the minimum rating for a suitable 10 metre lead - 10, 15 or 20 amp
please. TIA.

2.2kW is just under 10A


NT

On 25/09/2018 10:41, Bertie Doe wrote:
To safe my marriage, I need to move my new beer brewing machine from
kitchen to bathroom - that's a mere 10 metres for an extn lead. The
maximum heating element drain on the brewer (if that's the right word)
is 2200 watts.

I would be more worried about having something permanently on power and
using an extension lead into the bathroom - where there are strict
regulations about not having power sockets!

The following Youtube guy, has been banished to the garden (in February
!!), he's using an extension but hasn't mentioned the extensions'
rating. See Brewday # 1, fast-forward to about 18 minutes :-

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ndering+brewer

So what's the minimum rating for a suitable 10 metre lead - 10, 15 or 20
amp please. TIA.

Is there no other place where your contraption could live?

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

After serious thinking Martin Brown wrote :
Is there no other place where your contraption could live?

I have just noticed he said 'bathroom' - that is a definite no, no!

On Tuesday, 25 September 2018 11:23:07 UTC+1, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
After serious thinking Martin Brown wrote :
Is there no other place where your contraption could live?

I have just noticed he said 'bathroom' - that is a definite no, no!

depends on the size of the bathroom & whether it's suitable for a damp location.


NT

In article ,
Bertie Doe wrote:
To safe my marriage, I need to move my new beer brewing machine from kitchen
to bathroom - that's a mere 10 metres for an extn lead. The maximum heating
element drain on the brewer (if that's the right word) is 2200 watts.

The following Youtube guy, has been banished to the garden (in February !!),
he's using an extension but hasn't mentioned the extensions' rating. See
Brewday # 1, fast-forward to about 18 minutes :-

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ndering+brewer

So what's the minimum rating for a suitable 10 metre lead - 10, 15 or 20 amp
please. TIA.

W 2200
--- = A So ---- = 9.6A
V 230

--
*Make it idiot-proof and someone will make a better idiot.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 25/09/2018 10:41, Bertie Doe wrote:
To safe my marriage, I need to move my new beer brewing machine from
kitchen to bathroom - that's a mere 10 metres for an extn lead. The
maximum heating element drain on the brewer (if that's the right word)
is 2200 watts.

The following Youtube guy, has been banished to the garden (in February
!!), he's using an extension but hasn't mentioned the extensions'
rating. See Brewday # 1, fast-forward to about 18 minutes :-

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ndering+brewer

So what's the minimum rating for a suitable 10 metre lead - 10, 15 or 20
amp please. TIA.

Sounds like you need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...

Sounds like you need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.

Thanks all, it looks like the bathroom is not a good idea, although the bath
itself is fibreglass and some distance from the shower unit.

There's a small covered area (porch), reachable from the kitchen with a 10 m
extn lead. Probably the best bet.

Thanks John, the Jojo 10 m extn 13amp looks a good price for about £15,
which includes vat and a £3.50p handling fee.

On Tuesday, 25 September 2018 20:06:39 UTC+1, Bertie Doe wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
...

Sounds like you need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.

Thanks all, it looks like the bathroom is not a good idea, although the bath
itself is fibreglass and some distance from the shower unit.

There's a small covered area (porch), reachable from the kitchen with a 10 m
extn lead. Probably the best bet.

Thanks John, the Jojo 10 m extn 13amp looks a good price for about £15,
which includes vat and a £3.50p handling fee.

ask them not to handle it


NT

Bertie Doe wrote
John Rumm wrote

Sounds like you need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.

Thanks all, it looks like the bathroom is not a good idea, although the
bath itself is fibreglass and some distance from the shower unit.

There's a small covered area (porch), reachable from the kitchen with a 10
m extn lead. Probably the best bet.

I wouldnt do it that way myself, too little control over the
temperature and so makes the brewing too badly controlled.

Personally I'd ignore the stupid rules on electrical stuff in bathrooms
and just do what is sensible and safe in the bathroom.

Thanks John, the Jojo 10 m extn 13amp looks a good price for about £15,
which includes vat and a £3.50p handling fee.

On Wed, 26 Sep 2018 05:50:29 +1000, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:

Bertie Doe wrote
John Rumm wrote

Sounds like you need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.

Thanks all, it looks like the bathroom is not a good idea, although the
bath itself is fibreglass and some distance from the shower unit.

There's a small covered area (porch), reachable from the kitchen with a 10
m extn lead. Probably the best bet.

I wouldn¢t do it that way myself, too little control over the
temperature and so makes the brewing too badly controlled.

Personally I'd ignore the stupid rules on electrical stuff in bathrooms
and just do what is sensible and safe in the bathroom.

Personally, I'd ignore all your senile bull**** you keep spouting here just
be able to talk to someone and be heard by people that can't run as easily
away from you as people in real life.

--
dennis@home to know-it-all Rot Speed:
"You really should stop commenting on things you know nothing about."
Message-ID:

On 25/09/2018 20:06, Bertie Doe wrote:


"John Rumm"Â* wrote in message
...

Sounds like youÂ* need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.

Thanks all, it looks like the bathroom is not a good idea, although the
bath itself is fibreglass and some distance from the shower unit.

Much depends on the layout and the size of the room. If it could be
tucked out of the way in an airing cupboard for example, then its low
risk. If you have to clime over it to get into the shower, less so ;-)

There's a small covered area (porch), reachable from the kitchen with a
10 m extn lead. Probably the best bet.

Thanks John, the Jojo 10 m extn 13amp looks a good price for about £15,
which includes vat and a £3.50p handling fee.




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 25/09/2018 17:49, John Rumm wrote:
On 25/09/2018 10:41, Bertie Doe wrote:
To safe my marriage, I need to move my new beer brewing machine from
kitchen to bathroom - that's a mere 10 metres for an extn lead. The
maximum heating element drain on the brewer (if that's the right word)
is 2200 watts.

The following Youtube guy, has been banished to the garden (in
February !!), he's using an extension but hasn't mentioned the
extensions' rating. See Brewday # 1, fast-forward to about 18 minutes :-

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ndering+brewer

So what's the minimum rating for a suitable 10 metre lead - 10, 15 or
20 amp please. TIA.

Sounds like youÂ* need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.


A cassette lead isnot a good idea as the lead needs to be fully unwound
for this rating, to avoid inductive heating. With acassette lead there
will always be the temptation to wind in any spare.

Malcolm

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

On Tue, 25 Sep 2018 23:30:58 +0100, Malcolm Race wrote:

On 25/09/2018 17:49, John Rumm wrote:
On 25/09/2018 10:41, Bertie Doe wrote:
To safe my marriage, I need to move my new beer brewing machine from
kitchen to bathroom - that's a mere 10 metres for an extn lead. The
maximum heating element drain on the brewer (if that's the right word)
is 2200 watts.

The following Youtube guy, has been banished to the garden (in
February !!), he's using an extension but hasn't mentioned the
extensions' rating. See Brewday # 1, fast-forward to about 18 minutes
:-

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ndering+brewer

So what's the minimum rating for a suitable 10 metre lead - 10, 15 or
20 amp please. TIA.

Sounds like youÂ* need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.


A cassette lead is not a good idea as the lead needs to be fully unwound
for this rating, to avoid inductive heating. With a cassette lead there
will always be the temptation to wind in any spare.


The issue of unwound extension cables overheating has nothing whatsoever
to do with *inductive* effects. It is purely a matter of concentrating
the cable into a compact, low surface area lump which reduces the heat
dissipation rate of the I squared R losses in the cable when carrying its
fully unwound maximum rated current.

The reduced dissipation rate results in a much higher temperature
equilibrium being established in order to dissipate this waste energy
into the environment. Furthermore, copper having a significantly positive
temperature coefficient of resistance which can create a runaway effect,
will aggravate this temperature rise in an unwound cable to a surprising
degree. So much so that anecdotes about such wound up cables being turned
into a welded mass of PVC and copper are quite common.

--
Johnny B Good

On Wednesday, 26 September 2018 00:26:56 UTC+1, Johnny B Good wrote:
On Tue, 25 Sep 2018 23:30:58 +0100, Malcolm Race wrote:

On 25/09/2018 17:49, John Rumm wrote:
On 25/09/2018 10:41, Bertie Doe wrote:
To safe my marriage, I need to move my new beer brewing machine from
kitchen to bathroom - that's a mere 10 metres for an extn lead. The
maximum heating element drain on the brewer (if that's the right word)
is 2200 watts.

The following Youtube guy, has been banished to the garden (in
February !!), he's using an extension but hasn't mentioned the
extensions' rating. See Brewday # 1, fast-forward to about 18 minutes
:-

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ndering+brewer

So what's the minimum rating for a suitable 10 metre lead - 10, 15 or
20 amp please. TIA.

Sounds like youÂ* need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.


A cassette lead is not a good idea as the lead needs to be fully unwound
for this rating, to avoid inductive heating. With a cassette lead there
will always be the temptation to wind in any spare.


The issue of unwound extension cables overheating has nothing whatsoever
to do with *inductive* effects. It is purely a matter of concentrating
the cable into a compact, low surface area lump which reduces the heat
dissipation rate of the I squared R losses in the cable when carrying its
fully unwound maximum rated current.

The reduced dissipation rate results in a much higher temperature
equilibrium being established in order to dissipate this waste energy
into the environment. Furthermore, copper having a significantly positive
temperature coefficient of resistance which can create a runaway effect,
will aggravate this temperature rise in an unwound cable to a surprising
degree. So much so that anecdotes about such wound up cables being turned
into a welded mass of PVC and copper are quite common.

induction doesn't happen to any significant extent, and if it did it wouldn't cause heating. Why? Each bit of flex has currents flowing in equal and opposite directions.


NT

On Wednesday, 26 September 2018 03:42:20 UTC+1, wrote:
induction doesn't happen to any significant extent, and if it did it
wouldn't cause heating. Why? Each bit of flex has currents flowing in
equal and opposite directions.

Unless you have pretty horrific Zs and parallel earth paths through the plumbing.

Owain

On Tue, 25 Sep 2018 23:26:54 GMT, Johnny B Good wrote:

The reduced dissipation rate results in a much higher temperature
equilibrium being established in order to dissipate this waste energy
into the environment. Furthermore, copper having a significantly positive
temperature coefficient of resistance which can create a runaway effect,
will aggravate this temperature rise in an unwound cable to a surprising
degree. So much so that anecdotes about such wound up cables being turned
into a welded mass of PVC and copper are quite common.

I made a (very crude) reel for my 27m extension lead. I start rewinding by
tucking the double socket into the centre, so it has to be fully unwound to
use it. The highest load so far is under 1kW, so not much on 1.5 mil.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

Malcolm Race has brought this to us :
A cassette lead isnot a good idea as the lead needs to be fully unwound for
this rating, to avoid inductive heating. With acassette lead there will
always be the temptation to wind in any spare.

Many do think the problem is inductive, but there is not induction
because the flow in the live, is cancelled by that in the neutral. The
problem is the resistive heating. The cable warms up because of
resistance, the close coiling limits the ability to dissipate the heat
and the cable melts.

On 26/09/18 08:58, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Malcolm Race has brought this to us :
A cassette lead isnot a good idea as the lead needs to be fully
unwound for this rating, to avoid inductive heating.Â* With acassette
lead there will always be the temptation to wind in any spare.

Many do think the problem is inductive, but there is not induction
because the flow in the live, is cancelled by that in the neutral. The
problem is the resistive heating. The cable warms up because of
resistance, the close coiling limits the ability to dissipate the heat
and the cable melts.

+1.

Its hard to see what could in fact be heated 'by induction'

Not as though the reels are made of magnetic material...



--
Canada is all right really, though not for the whole weekend.

"Saki"

"Rod Speed" wrote in message ...

Bertie Doe wrote
John Rumm wrote

Sounds like you need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.

Thanks all, it looks like the bathroom is not a good idea, although the
bath itself is fibreglass and some distance from the shower unit.

There's a small covered area (porch), reachable from the kitchen with a
10 m extn lead. Probably the best bet.

I wouldnt do it that way myself, too little control over the
temperature and so makes the brewing too badly controlled.

Personally I'd ignore the stupid rules on electrical stuff in bathrooms
and just do what is sensible and safe in the bathroom.

With Winter approaching, brewing in the bathroom is becoming more
attractive. Clean-ups will be easier from within the bath. If I remove the
shower rose, connect a 6' extension, I can then use 60C water from the GCH
system. This saves a lot of time, as the Brewer only has to raise the temps
to 67C (mash) 80C (sparge) and then the final 90 minute boil stage.
'Jugging' 32 litres of hot water to the covered porch, will take forever :-)

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Much depends on the layout and the size of the room. If it could be tucked
out of the way in an airing cupboard for example, then its low risk. If you
have to climb over it to get into the shower, less so ;-)

Despite the obvious risks, the bath is becoming more attractive. Use of the
shower is not a problem as showering's take place pre 9am and post 9pm.

My last kitchen brew had spillage issues and the tops of the walls were
soaking. Inadequate extractor fan and a small window is the main culprit.
The bathroom has a ceiling mounted Velux window and a powerful extractor.

On Wed, 26 Sep 2018 09:12:32 +0100, Bertie Doe wrote:

'Jugging' 32 litres of hot water to the covered porch, will take forever

Hose pipe from hot kitchen tap?

3 'n a bit 10 litre buckets?

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 25 Sep 2018 14:45:57 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

W 2200
--- = A So ---- = 9.6A
V 230

But W will vary with V as R is essentially constant.

If the rating plate says 2200 W @ 230 V the current is 9.6 A and R =
V^2/W = 24.04 ohms. Increase the voltage to 240 V(*) the current goes
up to 9.98 A.

(*) Our voltage is 240 +/- 5 V unless the local primamry substation
is on the back up 11 kV feed instead of the main 33 kV. In which case
the voltage ranges over a day from 230 to 255. Yes out of
tolerance... 255 in the above gives 10.6 A.

I'd recomend that the OP gets a 13 A rated 10 m extension and ensures
it is fully unreeled. There might be ones with a resetable thermal
cutout, lest he forget...

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Bertie Doe" wrote in message
...


"Rod Speed" wrote in message ...

Bertie Doe wrote
John Rumm wrote

Sounds like you need a normal 13A lead. Jojo do quite neat units in a
cassette format with a couple of sockets on.

Thanks all, it looks like the bathroom is not a good idea, although the
bath itself is fibreglass and some distance from the shower unit.

There's a small covered area (porch), reachable from the kitchen with a
10 m extn lead. Probably the best bet.

I wouldnt do it that way myself, too little control over the
temperature and so makes the brewing too badly controlled.

Personally I'd ignore the stupid rules on electrical stuff in bathrooms
and just do what is sensible and safe in the bathroom.

With Winter approaching, brewing in the bathroom is becoming more
attractive.

Yep. I personally do mine in the spring and autumn so I dont have
to heat or cool the brews. But I normally do about 10-15 brews at
once so I get it all done in a couple of weeks in the brewing run so
it isnt very desirable to heat or cool the brews while they are brewing.

I attempt to do a full year's brewing run at a time, so it
normally works fine even if one spring or autumn turns
out to be not suitable for brewing because it changes
from too cold to too hot too quickly.

Clean-ups will be easier from within the bath.

I dont have a bath, only have a shower.

If I remove the shower rose, connect a 6' extension, I can then use 60C
water from the GCH system. This saves a lot of time, as the Brewer only
has to raise the temps to 67C (mash) 80C (sparge) and then the final 90
minute boil stage.

I use the canned brewing concentrate myself.

'Jugging' 32 litres of hot water to the covered porch, will take forever
:-)

Yeah, I do lift the brew barrels to the table
I bottle from but keep telling myself that that
is stupid and that I will do my back in sometime.

I do spirits as well as beer.

On 26/09/2018 10:15, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 25 Sep 2018 14:45:57 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

W 2200
--- = A So ---- = 9.6A
V 230

But W will vary with V as R is essentially constant.

If the rating plate says 2200 W @ 230 V the current is 9.6 A and R =
V^2/W = 24.04 ohms. Increase the voltage to 240 V(*) the current goes
up to 9.98 A.

(*) Our voltage is 240 +/- 5 V unless the local primamry substation
is on the back up 11 kV feed instead of the main 33 kV. In which case
the voltage ranges over a day from 230 to 255. Yes out of
tolerance... 255 in the above gives 10.6 A.

There is also a significant difference in running a 10A load
continuously vs a 10A load for a few minutes every hour or so. The
latter puts much less thermal stress on the installation.

I'd recomend that the OP gets a 13 A rated 10 m extension and ensures
it is fully unreeled. There might be ones with a resetable thermal
cutout, lest he forget...

It is an important point if you are going to run close to the rated
current through a conductor that it must not be still be rolled up. We
have had problems before with the church tea ladies using an extension
reel to boil 2x 3kW kettles with only about half the cable out. It
melted the insulation and internals of the reel before any fuses blew.

All the village hall extension cables now have thermal cutouts on them.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On Wed, 26 Sep 2018 19:20:42 +1000, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:


Yeah, I do lift the brew barrels to the table
I bottle from but keep telling myself that that
is stupid and that I will do my back in sometime.

I do spirits as well as beer.

Are you also one of those cranky weirdos that make their own sausages and
keep them hanging from the ceilings in their flats, senile Rot? I wouldn't
put it past you! BG

--
FredXX to Rot Speed:
"You are still an idiot and an embarrassment to your country. No wonder
we shippe the likes of you out of the British Isles. Perhaps stupidity
and criminality is inherited after all?"
Message-ID:

"Rod Speed" wrote in message ...

I attempt to do a full year's brewing run at a time, so it
normally works fine even if one spring or autumn turns
out to be not suitable for brewing because it changes
from too cold to too hot too quickly.

Yeah, I do lift the brew barrels to the table
I bottle from but keep telling myself that that
is stupid and that I will do my back in sometime.

That's a lot of bottles.

"Bertie Doe" wrote in message
...


"Rod Speed" wrote in message ...
I attempt to do a full year's brewing run at a time, so it
normally works fine even if one spring or autumn turns
out to be not suitable for brewing because it changes
from too cold to too hot too quickly.

Yeah, I do lift the brew barrels to the table
I bottle from but keep telling myself that that
is stupid and that I will do my back in sometime.

That's a lot of bottles.

Yes it is. I fill the other room intended to be the
second bathroom with the bottles in milk crates.
I have 75 of them now, and 20 soft drink crates
http://www.precimaxplastics.com.au/gallery/
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jx60jsq9a9...24_75.jpg?dl=0

Those are for the 750ml full sized beer bottles, what we call long necks.

I still have the 375ml beer bottles we call stubbies and
the 32 Kitab crates I keep those in but dont use those
much anymore.

On Wednesday, 26 September 2018 07:54:09 UTC+1, wrote:
On Wednesday, 26 September 2018 03:42:20 UTC+1, tabby wrote:

induction doesn't happen to any significant extent, and if it did it
wouldn't cause heating. Why? Each bit of flex has currents flowing in
equal and opposite directions.

Unless you have pretty horrific Zs and parallel earth paths through the plumbing.

Owain

it's not entirely impossible to miswire an immersion heaer so you end up with lots of CPC current. That would create inductance, but still not heating of the coiled extension lead.


NT

On Wed, 26 Sep 2018 20:33:17 +1000, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:


Yes it is. I fill the other room intended to be the
second bathroom with the bottles in milk crates.
I have 75 of them now, and 20 soft drink crates
http://www.precimaxplastics.com.au/gallery/
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jx60jsq9a9...24_75.jpg?dl=0

Those are for the 750ml full sized beer bottles, what we call long necks.

I still have the 375ml beer bottles we call stubbies and
the 32 Kitab crates I keep those in but don¢t use those
much anymore.

Man, you ARE a weirdo!

--
Bill Wright to Rot Speed:
"That confirms my opinion that you are a despicable little ****."
MID:

"Rod Speed" wrote in message ...
"Bertie Doe" wrote in message
...


That's a lot of bottles.

Yes it is. I fill the other room intended to be the
second bathroom with the bottles in milk crates.
I have 75 of them now, and 20 soft drink crates
http://www.precimaxplastics.com.au/gallery/
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jx60jsq9a9...24_75.jpg?dl=0

Those are for the 750ml full sized beer bottles, what we call long necks.

I still have the 375ml beer bottles we call stubbies and
the 32 Kitab crates I keep those in but dont use those
much anymore.

I've got about 200 x 500ml dark swing-cage bottles. About 5% are clear, just
to keep an eye on things. I've only got 10 stackable crates, so most bottles
are kept on shelves, with some strips of black plastic to keep the light
out. Consumption is only 2 bottles a day, so two 40 bottle brew-days per
month, keeps me ahead of the game.

In article ,
Martin Brown wrote:
All the village hall extension cables now have thermal cutouts on them.

How does a thermal cutout work on an extension? An extension reel, I can
understand.

--
*Can atheists get insurance for acts of God? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Bertie Doe" wrote in message
...


"Rod Speed" wrote in message ...
"Bertie Doe" wrote in message
...


That's a lot of bottles.

Yes it is. I fill the other room intended to be the
second bathroom with the bottles in milk crates.
I have 75 of them now, and 20 soft drink crates
http://www.precimaxplastics.com.au/gallery/
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jx60jsq9a9...24_75.jpg?dl=0

Those are for the 750ml full sized beer bottles, what we call long necks.

I still have the 375ml beer bottles we call stubbies and
the 32 Kitab crates I keep those in but dont use those
much anymore.

I've got about 200 x 500ml dark swing-cage bottles.

I use longnecks because this area has a very high percentage
of Italian immigrants who are into doing tomato paste every
year, so quite a few show up at garage sales as some old
italian falls off the perch and their kids get rid of the bottles.

Just missed out on a full pallet of 200 last week.

About 5% are clear, just to keep an eye on things. I've only got 10
stackable crates, so most bottles are kept on shelves, with some strips of
black plastic to keep the light out. Consumption is only 2 bottles a day,

Yeah, I normally drink a 750ml long neck a day.
Half before dinner and the other half with dinner.

so two 40 bottle brew-days per month, keeps me ahead of the game.

I prefer to do one mega brewing run every
year or so so I get it all done in 2 weeks or so.

In article l.net,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 25 Sep 2018 14:45:57 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

W 2200
--- = A So ---- = 9.6A
V 230

But W will vary with V as R is essentially constant.

If the rating plate says 2200 W @ 230 V the current is 9.6 A and R =
V^2/W = 24.04 ohms. Increase the voltage to 240 V(*) the current goes
up to 9.98 A.

(*) Our voltage is 240 +/- 5 V unless the local primamry substation
is on the back up 11 kV feed instead of the main 33 kV. In which case
the voltage ranges over a day from 230 to 255. Yes out of
tolerance... 255 in the above gives 10.6 A.

the max permitted is 253.0V. Arec younsure your voltmeter is accurate.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On Thu, 27 Sep 2018 00:05:22 +1000, cantankerous trolling senile geezer Rot
Speed blabbered, again:


Yeah, I normally drink a 750ml long neck a day.
Half before dinner and the other half with dinner.

You know that Birdbrain brews his own beer and liqueur too, senile Rot? No
wonder you two abnormal idiots get along so well together! BG

--
FredXX to Rot Speed:
"You are still an idiot and an embarrassment to your country. No wonder
we shippe the likes of you out of the British Isles. Perhaps stupidity
and criminality is inherited after all?"
Message-ID:

On Wed, 26 Sep 2018 16:43:24 +0100, charles wrote:

(*) Our voltage is 240 +/- 5 V unless the local primamry
substation
is on the back up 11 kV feed instead of the main 33 kV. In which
case
the voltage ranges over a day from 230 to 255. Yes out of
tolerance... 255 in the above gives 10.6 A.

the max permitted is 253.0V. Arec younsure your voltmeter is accurate.

"max permitted" on paper...

Close enough that the DNO was quite interested in daily plots of
voltage whilst the primary was on the back up feed. This was after an
engineer had called, seen the plots and measured the voltage which
agreed with my reading at the time.

There happened to be other engineers at the 11 kV backup feed
orginating primary substation, they gave 'em a call and got that
knocked down a notch. That did bring our voltage down to 253 ish but
only for about 24 hours. Not overly surprising as the distribution
system is a balancing act of transformer tappings, line loss and
regulators. Drop the line voltage and everyones voltage drops. There
is a regulator in the back up feed and that ought to keep the 11 kV
it feeds on to the primary at the correct level.

Looking at the date (2014) on this plot:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/allsorts-60/44881990212

I suspect they gave the regulator a hefty kick shortly after the 33
kV was back in use as I've not spotted any serious voltage
fluctuations since. We sit at 240 +/- 5 V pretty much 24/7.

--
Cheers
Dave.