I'd like to put in a roof window for extra light and removal of excess heat
in the loft. The roof angle is about 45 degrees, tiles are flat and square.

Will centre pivot be LESS likely to let in rain - if left open?

Is it a straight forward D-I-Y job?

Any thoughts on makers, I'm looking at smaller sizes. TIA.

https://www.sterlingbuild.co.uk/products/roof-windows-1

Maurice Goldstein wrote:
I'd like to put in a roof window for extra light and removal of
excess heat in the loft. The roof angle is about 45 degrees, tiles
are flat and square.

Will centre pivot be LESS likely to let in rain - if left open?

Is it a straight forward D-I-Y job?

Any thoughts on makers, I'm looking at smaller sizes. TIA.

https://www.sterlingbuild.co.uk/products/roof-windows-1





I always use Roto PVC roofwindows. No maintenance. Available from
Loft Shop. Not the cheapest but a fit once exercise. The fitting
instructions are very good. Any roof window will let in rain if left
open. I believe self closing kits are available?

On 04/08/2016 17:18, Maurice Goldstein wrote:
I'd like to put in a roof window for extra light and removal of excess
heat in the loft. The roof angle is about 45 degrees, tiles are flat and
square.

Will centre pivot be LESS likely to let in rain - if left open?

Is it a straight forward D-I-Y job?

Yup, not too difficult. Easy if you have exterior access, but also
doable entirely from inside the loft.




--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

On Thu, 4 Aug 2016 18:12:39 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:
On 04/08/2016 17:18, Maurice Goldstein wrote:
I'd like to put in a roof window for extra light and removal of
excess
heat in the loft. The roof angle is about 45 degrees, tiles are
flat and
square.

Will centre pivot be LESS likely to let in rain - if left open?

Is it a straight forward D-I-Y job?


Yup, not too difficult. Easy if you have exterior access, but also
doable entirely from inside the loft.








--
Cheers,


John.


/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

I had to get building control in when I did mine. We are in a
conservation area.

On 04/08/2016 20:53, Lawrence wrote:

I had to get building control in when I did mine. We are in a
conservation area.

+1, but it was only to check the heat loss: a nice lady came along with
some sort of meter, put it on the window, passed and signed the paperwork.

"Capitol" wrote in message
o.uk...

Maurice Goldstein wrote:

https://www.sterlingbuild.co.uk/products/roof-windows-1


I always use Roto PVC roofwindows. No maintenance. Available from Loft
Shop. Not the cheapest but a fit once exercise. The fitting instructions
are very good. Any roof window will let in rain if left open. I believe
self closing kits are available?

Thanks for that. Yep, rain happens, if I'm daft enough to forget to close it
......

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...

On 04/08/2016 17:18, Maurice Goldstein wrote:
I'd like to put in a roof window for extra light and removal of excess
heat in the loft. The roof angle is about 45 degrees, tiles are flat and
square.

Will centre pivot be LESS likely to let in rain - if left open?

Is it a straight forward D-I-Y job?

Yup, not too difficult. Easy if you have exterior access, but also doable
entirely from inside the loft.

Exterior access would require scaffolding costs. Have to be do-able from
inside. I've just measured the 2" x 2" rafters and the centres are only 15".






--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Allan" wrote in message ...

On 04/08/2016 20:53, Lawrence wrote:

I had to get building control in when I did mine. We are in a
conservation area.

+1, but it was only to check the heat loss: a nice lady came along with
some sort of meter, put it on the window, passed and signed the paperwork.

Doubt whether it's in a conservation area, they're building 200+ houses in
the fields fronting the house. I think the whole of Cornwall is unrestricted
:-)

The proposed roof light is at rear of property, which faces allotments and
fields. However, our terrace is 2-up-2-down, built 1840's so may have some
sort of restriction. I'll play safe and sound out Bldg Regs before I
proceed.

Maurice Goldstein wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...

On 04/08/2016 17:18, Maurice Goldstein wrote:
I'd like to put in a roof window for extra light and removal of
excess heat in the loft. The roof angle is about 45 degrees, tiles
are flat and square.

Will centre pivot be LESS likely to let in rain - if left open?

Is it a straight forward D-I-Y job?

Yup, not too difficult. Easy if you have exterior access, but also
doable entirely from inside the loft.

Exterior access would require scaffolding costs. Have to be do-able
from inside. I've just measured the 2" x 2" rafters and the centres
are only 15".

If the rafters are 2X2 they're not strong enough to hold a roof up, this is
without mounting a heavy window frame on them.

We use 8X2 roof trusses with 150mm celotex inbetween and we have to double
them up on either side of a roof light, so the timbers there are 8X4.

Th rafters can't possibly be 2X2

On 05/08/2016 19:11, Phil L wrote:
Th rafters can't possibly be 2X2

At least one of our floor joists is a three inch diameter branch.
Peasant's cottage...

Andy

On 8/4/2016 6:12 PM, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/08/2016 17:18, Maurice Goldstein wrote:
I'd like to put in a roof window for extra light and removal of excess
heat in the loft. The roof angle is about 45 degrees, tiles are flat and
square.

Will centre pivot be LESS likely to let in rain - if left open?

Is it a straight forward D-I-Y job?

Yup, not too difficult. Easy if you have exterior access, but also
doable entirely from inside the loft.






I have used Velux & Roto .... in future I will only use Roto.

Make sure you buy with full flashing kit, installation is easy ... hard
part is preparing the opening.
Make sure top & bottom (noggins) are in right place and fixed solid
before you start fitting the kit.

In message , Vir
Campestris writes
On 05/08/2016 19:11, Phil L wrote:
Th rafters can't possibly be 2X2

At least one of our floor joists is a three inch diameter branch.
Peasant's cottage...

Our lounge ceiling joists are Hornbeam, some bark still on. Presumably
cut from a farm hedge.

Gravel workers cottages.

--
Tim Lamb

"Phil L" wrote in message ...

Maurice Goldstein wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...

On 04/08/2016 17:18, Maurice Goldstein wrote:
I'd like to put in a roof window for extra light and removal of
excess heat in the loft. The roof angle is about 45 degrees, tiles
are flat and square.

Will centre pivot be LESS likely to let in rain - if left open?

Is it a straight forward D-I-Y job?

Yup, not too difficult. Easy if you have exterior access, but also
doable entirely from inside the loft.

Exterior access would require scaffolding costs. Have to be do-able
from inside. I've just measured the 2" x 2" rafters and the centres
are only 15".

If the rafters are 2X2 they're not strong enough to hold a roof up, this is
without mounting a heavy window frame on them.

We use 8X2 roof trusses with 150mm celotex inbetween and we have to double
them up on either side of a roof light, so the timbers there are 8X4.

Th rafters can't possibly be 2X2

The rafters are 2" x 2". The house was built in 1840 :-
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jo7t5jmmt...uXmWmN4wa?dl=0

Nowadays I assume 4" x 2" is the norm? or should I say 100m x 50m
http://preview.tinyurl.com/gqnj2p4

On 07/08/2016 12:20, Maurice Goldstein wrote:


"Phil L" wrote in message ...

Maurice Goldstein wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...

On 04/08/2016 17:18, Maurice Goldstein wrote:
I'd like to put in a roof window for extra light and removal of
excess heat in the loft. The roof angle is about 45 degrees, tiles
are flat and square.

Will centre pivot be LESS likely to let in rain - if left open?

Is it a straight forward D-I-Y job?

Yup, not too difficult. Easy if you have exterior access, but also
doable entirely from inside the loft.

Exterior access would require scaffolding costs. Have to be do-able
from inside. I've just measured the 2" x 2" rafters and the centres
are only 15".

If the rafters are 2X2 they're not strong enough to hold a roof up,
this is without mounting a heavy window frame on them.

We use 8X2 roof trusses with 150mm celotex inbetween and we have to
double them up on either side of a roof light, so the timbers there
are 8X4.

Th rafters can't possibly be 2X2

The rafters are 2" x 2". The house was built in 1840 :-
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jo7t5jmmt...uXmWmN4wa?dl=0

I get "This folder is empty"!

"Fredxxx" wrote in message ...

On 07/08/2016 12:20, Maurice Goldstein wrote:

The rafters are 2" x 2". The house was built in 1840 :-
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jo7t5jmmt...uXmWmN4wa?dl=0

I get "This folder is empty"!

Thanks Fred. Probs with OS settings. These are reliable :-

https://s20.postimg.org/70bpwk5gt/P1020927.jpg
https://s20.postimg.org/ptxitk3ot/P1020931.jpg

On 07/08/2016 13:04, Maurice Goldstein wrote:


"Fredxxx" wrote in message ...

On 07/08/2016 12:20, Maurice Goldstein wrote:

The rafters are 2" x 2". The house was built in 1840 :-
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jo7t5jmmt...uXmWmN4wa?dl=0


I get "This folder is empty"!

Thanks Fred. Probs with OS settings. These are reliable :-

https://s20.postimg.org/70bpwk5gt/P1020927.jpg
https://s20.postimg.org/ptxitk3ot/P1020931.jpg

That doesn't look like 1840's timber.

There must be purlins, perhaps a photo and sketch of the rafters and
purlins together with an idea of dimension of how far apart the rafters
and purlins are would be useful.

It looks a very weak roof. Are there seriously tiles the other side of
that felt?

Fredxxx wrote:
On 07/08/2016 13:04, Maurice Goldstein wrote:


"Fredxxx" wrote in message ...

On 07/08/2016 12:20, Maurice Goldstein wrote:

The rafters are 2" x 2". The house was built in 1840 :-
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jo7t5jmmt...uXmWmN4wa?dl=0



I get "This folder is empty"!

Thanks Fred. Probs with OS settings. These are reliable :-

https://s20.postimg.org/70bpwk5gt/P1020927.jpg
https://s20.postimg.org/ptxitk3ot/P1020931.jpg

That doesn't look like 1840's timber.

There must be purlins, perhaps a photo and sketch of the rafters and
purlins together with an idea of dimension of how far apart the
rafters and purlins are would be useful.

It looks a very weak roof. Are there seriously tiles the other side of
that felt?
Just add two or more, 4 x 2 beams from the ridge to the eaves to
stiffen up the roof around the mounting point. As the pitch is 45
degrees, the vertical loading won't be very high. You'll need some
horizontal struts as well to frame the window and distribute the load
more widely.. Look on the Roto site for more guidance. Is this a tiled
or slated roof?

"Fredxxx" wrote in message ...

On 07/08/2016 13:04, Maurice Goldstein wrote:


https://s20.postimg.org/70bpwk5gt/P1020927.jpg
https://s20.postimg.org/ptxitk3ot/P1020931.jpg

That doesn't look like 1840's timber.

There must be purlins, perhaps a photo and sketch of the rafters and
purlins together with an idea of dimension of how far apart the rafters and
purlins are would be useful.

It looks a very weak roof. Are there seriously tiles the other side of that
felt?

Yes there are tiles on the other side of felt.

The two 4" x 3" horizontal purlins you see in this pic, the centres are 48"
apart :-
https://s20.postimg.org/pz5vgz0dp/P1020934.jpg
The rafter centres are 15" apart

Here's a pic shower upper structure :-
https://s20.postimg.org/8n5ivj6wd/P1020933.jpg

It's possible that this isn't the original 1840 roof. The size of purlins
and rafters are identical on both sides of the pitched roof.

Maurice Goldstein wrote:


"Fredxxx" wrote in message ...

On 07/08/2016 13:04, Maurice Goldstein wrote:


https://s20.postimg.org/70bpwk5gt/P1020927.jpg
https://s20.postimg.org/ptxitk3ot/P1020931.jpg

That doesn't look like 1840's timber.

There must be purlins, perhaps a photo and sketch of the rafters and
purlins together with an idea of dimension of how far apart the
rafters and purlins are would be useful.

It looks a very weak roof. Are there seriously tiles the other side
of that felt?

Yes there are tiles on the other side of felt.

The two 4" x 3" horizontal purlins you see in this pic, the centres
are 48" apart :-
https://s20.postimg.org/pz5vgz0dp/P1020934.jpg
The rafter centres are 15" apart

Here's a pic shower upper structure :-
https://s20.postimg.org/8n5ivj6wd/P1020933.jpg

It's possible that this isn't the original 1840 roof. The size of
purlins and rafters are identical on both sides of the pitched roof.






Having seen the new pictures, I'd just stiffen it up between the
purlins. IMO that's enough.

On 07/08/2016 15:35, Maurice Goldstein wrote:


"Fredxxx" wrote in message ...

On 07/08/2016 13:04, Maurice Goldstein wrote:


https://s20.postimg.org/70bpwk5gt/P1020927.jpg
https://s20.postimg.org/ptxitk3ot/P1020931.jpg

That doesn't look like 1840's timber.

There must be purlins, perhaps a photo and sketch of the rafters and
purlins together with an idea of dimension of how far apart the
rafters and purlins are would be useful.

It looks a very weak roof. Are there seriously tiles the other side of
that felt?

Yes there are tiles on the other side of felt.

The two 4" x 3" horizontal purlins you see in this pic, the centres are
48" apart :-
https://s20.postimg.org/pz5vgz0dp/P1020934.jpg
The rafter centres are 15" apart

Here's a pic shower upper structure :-
https://s20.postimg.org/8n5ivj6wd/P1020933.jpg

It's possible that this isn't the original 1840 roof. The size of
purlins and rafters are identical on both sides of the pitched roof.

I would say it's a easy job if a Velux window is placed between a pair
of purlins, I would be less keen if put between a purlin and the ridge.

Most Velux windows are designed for 4 x 2 timbers. I haven't looked but
are there velux windows that fit between rafters 15" apart? Otherwise it
requires another rafter shoe-horned in and the existing one cut.

There might be some Youtube videos to give you an idea of how
difficult/easy it is!

"Capitol" wrote in message
o.uk...

Just add two or more, 4 x 2 beams from the ridge to the eaves to stiffen
up the roof around the mounting point. As the pitch is 45 degrees, the
vertical loading won't be very high. You'll need some horizontal struts as
well to frame the window and distribute the load more widely.. Look on the
Roto site for more guidance. Is this a tiled or slated roof?

Hmm sounds like its DIY-able. It's slated roof.

"Fredxxx" wrote in message ...

I would say it's a easy job if a Velux window is placed between a pair of
purlins, I would be less keen if put between a purlin and the ridge.

Most Velux windows are designed for 4 x 2 timbers. I haven't looked but are
there velux windows that fit between rafters 15" apart? Otherwise it
requires another rafter shoe-horned in and the existing one cut.

Looking at that earlier list I posted, the narrowest is 47cm / 18.5" so one
rafter will have to be cut. I'll have a look at Youtube and the Roto site
mentioned .

"rick" wrote in message ...

I have used Velux & Roto .... in future I will only use Roto.

Make sure you buy with full flashing kit, installation is easy ... hard
part is preparing the opening.
Make sure top & bottom (noggins) are in right place and fixed solid
before you start fitting the kit.

Thanks, I guess Velux is the best known but I'll look at Roto.

"Maurice Goldstein" wrote in message
...


"Fredxxx" wrote in message ...

On 07/08/2016 12:20, Maurice Goldstein wrote:

The rafters are 2" x 2". The house was built in 1840 :-
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jo7t5jmmt...uXmWmN4wa?dl=0

I get "This folder is empty"!

Thanks Fred. Probs with OS settings. These are reliable :-

https://s20.postimg.org/70bpwk5gt/P1020927.jpg
https://s20.postimg.org/ptxitk3ot/P1020931.jpg

That one isnt a 2" x 2"

On 8/5/2016 7:11 PM, Phil L wrote:
Maurice Goldstein wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...

On 04/08/2016 17:18, Maurice Goldstein wrote:
I'd like to put in a roof window for extra light and removal of
excess heat in the loft. The roof angle is about 45 degrees, tiles
are flat and square.

Will centre pivot be LESS likely to let in rain - if left open?

Is it a straight forward D-I-Y job?

Yup, not too difficult. Easy if you have exterior access, but also
doable entirely from inside the loft.

Exterior access would require scaffolding costs. Have to be do-able
from inside. I've just measured the 2" x 2" rafters and the centres
are only 15".

If the rafters are 2X2 they're not strong enough to hold a roof up, this is
without mounting a heavy window frame on them.

We use 8X2 roof trusses with 150mm celotex inbetween and we have to double
them up on either side of a roof light, so the timbers there are 8X4.

Th rafters can't possibly be 2X2


I agree about the joists, but I think the weight of the window is
nothing compared to the weight of the tiles removed.

I put in a couple of Wickes Velux clones many years ago, I was quite
surprised how relatively easy it was to do from inside with no exterior
access.

From memory, my roof joists are about 6 x 2, now supporting concrete
tiles but originally would have been Cotswold limestone, I suspect.
Spacing about 20 inches.