I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket. I speculate that the socket was originally
fitted with a minimal length of free wire and subsequently the wall was
tiled and the socket refitted.

I can move the socket approx 2cm from the surface of the wall which is
just enough to gain access to the screw terminals however I'm concerned
that if I do remove the wires fitting a new socket may be extremely
difficult.

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink? I'm aware that I will possibly have to use a
2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind the socket and use longer screws.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket.
Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink?

You can use terminal strip if you want, and it may be easier to join the ring and only extend 1 set of wires to the socket, treating it as a spur.

You may need to find a replacement socket where you can get the screwdriver in from the side to tighten the wires with the socket close to the wall. MK?

Owain

On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 11:39:20 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket.
Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink?

You can use terminal strip if you want, and it may be easier to join the ring and only extend 1 set of wires to the socket, treating it as a spur.

You may need to find a replacement socket where you can get the screwdriver in from the side to tighten the wires with the socket close to the wall. MK?

Owain

A few years ago I bought a box of 5 MK Logic Plus 2-gang 13A sockets from
SF. They're good to wire as the terminals are all easily accessible.
At that time they were on SF's site as Logic Plus but now aren't.
There seems to be a lot of low reviews re. quality - things like the
backed-off captive screws being so tight that they shear or the head splits.

There was a passing mention on here about possibly SF getting 'special'
products from manufacturers so as to keep down the price - I wonder...
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 27/08/2018 08:51, PeterC wrote:
On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 11:39:20 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket.
Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink?

You can use terminal strip if you want, and it may be easier to join the ring and only extend 1 set of wires to the socket, treating it as a spur.

You may need to find a replacement socket where you can get the screwdriver in from the side to tighten the wires with the socket close to the wall. MK?

Owain

A few years ago I bought a box of 5 MK Logic Plus 2-gang 13A sockets from
SF. They're good to wire as the terminals are all easily accessible.
At that time they were on SF's site as Logic Plus but now aren't.
There seems to be a lot of low reviews re. quality - things like the
backed-off captive screws being so tight that they shear or the head splits.

There was a passing mention on here about possibly SF getting 'special'
products from manufacturers so as to keep down the price - I wonder...


They are however still Logic Plus. The MK2747WHI is the bog standard
white MK double socket.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-2-gang...e-5-pack/8458r

The only mention of Logic Plus on Screwfix I can see is this one

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-...ket-grey/224ff
and that is on the same page of the MK catalogue as the 2747WHI.

--
Adam

On Mon, 27 Aug 2018 10:24:47 +0100, ARW wrote:

On 27/08/2018 08:51, PeterC wrote:
On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 11:39:20 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket.
Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink?

You can use terminal strip if you want, and it may be easier to join the ring and only extend 1 set of wires to the socket, treating it as a spur.

You may need to find a replacement socket where you can get the screwdriver in from the side to tighten the wires with the socket close to the wall. MK?

Owain

A few years ago I bought a box of 5 MK Logic Plus 2-gang 13A sockets from
SF. They're good to wire as the terminals are all easily accessible.
At that time they were on SF's site as Logic Plus but now aren't.
There seems to be a lot of low reviews re. quality - things like the
backed-off captive screws being so tight that they shear or the head splits.

There was a passing mention on here about possibly SF getting 'special'
products from manufacturers so as to keep down the price - I wonder...


They are however still Logic Plus. The MK2747WHI is the bog standard
white MK double socket.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-2-gang...e-5-pack/8458r

The only mention of Logic Plus on Screwfix I can see is this one

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-...ket-grey/224ff
and that is on the same page of the MK catalogue as the 2747WHI.

Ah, I was looking at white ones - I have some MK grey, metal-clad from about
35 years ago.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 27/08/2018 10:24, ARW wrote:
On 27/08/2018 08:51, PeterC wrote:
On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 11:39:20 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_mÂ* wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket.Â* The problem is a lack of
free
wire behind the socket.
Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink?

You can use terminal strip if you want, and it may be easier to join
the ring and only extend 1 set of wires to the socket, treating it as
a spur.

You may need to find a replacement socket where you can get the
screwdriver in from the side to tighten the wires with the socket
close to the wall. MK?

Owain

A few years ago I bought a box of 5 MK Logic Plus 2-gang 13A sockets from
SF. They're good to wire as the terminals are all easily accessible.
At that time they were on SF's site as Logic Plus but now aren't.
There seems to be a lot of low reviews re. quality - things like the
backed-off captive screws being so tight that they shear or the head
splits.

There was a passing mention on here about possibly SF getting 'special'
products from manufacturers so as to keep down the price - I wonder...


They are however still Logic Plus. The MK2747WHI is the bog standard
white MK double socket.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-2-gang...e-5-pack/8458r


The only mention of Logic Plus on Screwfix I can see is this one

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-...ket-grey/224ff
and that is on the same page of the MK catalogue as the 2747WHI.


Job completed, at my mothers' house. As usual with this property, the
job didn't take 15 minutes but more like 3 hours.

I purchased a MK double switched socket from Toolstation. All 3
terminals are in line and the screws are tightened from above. The
backed off captive screws were very tight and on the first attempt at
trying to tighten the first of them I thought it may strip the driver
slot in the screw. On examining the fitting, I used a slightly larger
width driver to first screw all the terminal screws in by a few turns
and then back out again. This freed them up allowing easy fitting the
second time of trying. I tend to buy MK sockets as in the past I have
purchased cheaper "no-name" shed brands and found them far inferior
often with smaller terminal holes for the wires and the terminals in
random positions.

The MK terminal arrangement can be seen in an image on the Screwfix site

https://media.screwfix.com/is/image//ae235?src=ae235/15747_A1&$prodImageMedium$

or

https://tinyurl.com/y74rvkd5

There was actualy enough cable behind the socket. What had happened was
that all the spare cable had been pushed back through the knockout holes
in the back-box. Originally the outer insulation had been split to pull
out the inner wires and then most of the excess outer insulation had
been cut off. When pushed back through the back-box holes the remnants
of the outer insulation acted as a bard and prevented the wire from
moving forward again.

Now my problems really started. The screws holding the socket to the
back-box were too short and previously the fixing lugs on the back-box
had been bent forward so that one or two threads just about mated,
probably cross threaded. I had anticipated this after first checking the
faulty socket yesterday and I already had longer screws which I brought
to the job. Unfortunately on removing the faulty socket, by undoing the
wire terminals, I discovered that on one side the fixing lug had sheared
off and the other looked rather mangled. A new back-box was required.

The back-box had been installed before the wall was tiled. Luckily the
back-box was attached be two screws in the corners and freely moved
behind the tiles when the screws were removed.

I live about 15 minutes drive away so a round trip to get a back-box
from my box of electrical spares and some more of my tools, the more
important being a tile rasp.

On returning I carefully filed down the hole in the tiles to the size of
the back-box and removed it. I then fitted a deeper back-box and used
some rubber grommets which were missing from the original installation.

5 minutes later the new socket was fitted and a quick check with a
plug-in checker for correct wiring and earth loop impedance.

http://martindale-electric.co.uk/mar...tor-p-285.html

or

https://tinyurl.com/yco933ae

This is the same house where a quick change of light fitting revealed
that the previous owners had removed a ceiling rose and had only loosely
twisted the wires together and insulated with Sellotape. In this case
the wires were so tight when attempting to get them all back to the
small hole in the ceiling that it required cutting and repairing tongue
and groove floorboards to gain access from the floor above. Another 15
minute job that took a lot longer!

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Mon, 27 Aug 2018 16:42:27 +0100, alan_m wrote:

Job completed, at my mothers' house. As usual with this property, the
job didn't take 15 minutes but more like 3 hours.

I purchased a MK double switched socket from Toolstation. All 3
terminals are in line and the screws are tightened from above. The
backed off captive screws were very tight and on the first attempt at
trying to tighten the first of them I thought it may strip the driver
slot in the screw.

This was common in the 1-star reviews on SF. At a guess, the 'captive' part
is done by deforming the thread after the screw is fitted and the screw is
backed out too far - bloody automation!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Mon, 27 Aug 2018 08:51:52 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 11:39:20 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket.
Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink?

You can use terminal strip if you want, and it may be easier to join the ring and only extend 1 set of wires to the socket, treating it as a spur.

You may need to find a replacement socket where you can get the screwdriver in from the side to tighten the wires with the socket close to the wall. MK?

Owain

A few years ago I bought a box of 5 MK Logic Plus 2-gang 13A sockets from
SF. They're good to wire as the terminals are all easily accessible.
At that time they were on SF's site as Logic Plus but now aren't.
There seems to be a lot of low reviews re. quality - things like the
backed-off captive screws being so tight that they shear or the head splits.

There was a passing mention on here about possibly SF getting 'special'
products from manufacturers so as to keep down the price - I wonder...

I have often wondered what 'trade quality' means. Does it mean high
quality for good tradesmen or does it mean manufactured at a lower
cost? I think MK has factories elsewhere for local markets, so could
it be that 'trade' means import and 'consumer' means UK made?

In article , Scott
wrote:
On Mon, 27 Aug 2018 08:51:52 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 11:39:20 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but
anticipate problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is
a lack of free wire behind the socket. Is it permissible to extend
the length of wires in the back-box using crimps (using the correct
crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as soldering and
heat-shrink?

You can use terminal strip if you want, and it may be easier to join
the ring and only extend 1 set of wires to the socket, treating it as
a spur.

You may need to find a replacement socket where you can get the
screwdriver in from the side to tighten the wires with the socket
close to the wall. MK?

Owain

A few years ago I bought a box of 5 MK Logic Plus 2-gang 13A sockets
from SF. They're good to wire as the terminals are all easily
accessible. At that time they were on SF's site as Logic Plus but now
aren't. There seems to be a lot of low reviews re. quality - things like
the backed-off captive screws being so tight that they shear or the head
splits.

There was a passing mention on here about possibly SF getting 'special'
products from manufacturers so as to keep down the price - I wonder...

I have often wondered what 'trade quality' means. Does it mean high
quality for good tradesmen or does it mean manufactured at a lower cost?
I think MK has factories elsewhere for local markets, so could it be that
'trade' means import and 'consumer' means UK made?

MK is no longer a British company. They are owned by Honeywell - a US
company

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On Mon, 27 Aug 2018 19:41:21 +0100, charles
wrote:

In article , Scott
wrote:
On Mon, 27 Aug 2018 08:51:52 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

On Sun, 26 Aug 2018 11:39:20 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but
anticipate problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is
a lack of free wire behind the socket. Is it permissible to extend
the length of wires in the back-box using crimps (using the correct
crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as soldering and
heat-shrink?

You can use terminal strip if you want, and it may be easier to join
the ring and only extend 1 set of wires to the socket, treating it as
a spur.

You may need to find a replacement socket where you can get the
screwdriver in from the side to tighten the wires with the socket
close to the wall. MK?

Owain

A few years ago I bought a box of 5 MK Logic Plus 2-gang 13A sockets
from SF. They're good to wire as the terminals are all easily
accessible. At that time they were on SF's site as Logic Plus but now
aren't. There seems to be a lot of low reviews re. quality - things like
the backed-off captive screws being so tight that they shear or the head
splits.

There was a passing mention on here about possibly SF getting 'special'
products from manufacturers so as to keep down the price - I wonder...

I have often wondered what 'trade quality' means. Does it mean high
quality for good tradesmen or does it mean manufactured at a lower cost?
I think MK has factories elsewhere for local markets, so could it be that
'trade' means import and 'consumer' means UK made?

MK is no longer a British company. They are owned by Honeywell - a US
company

I am well aware of that, which does not alter my central premise. The
products made in UK (Southend-on-Sea) are British made and ones not
made in UK are not British made. My question was whether the 'trade'
sockets were sourced differently, not 'Who owns MK?'.

On 26/08/2018 19:17, alan_m wrote:

I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket.Â* The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket.Â* I speculate that the socket was originally
fitted with a minimal length of free wire and subsequently the wall was
tiled and the socket refitted.

I can move the socket approx 2cm from the surface of the wall which is
just enough to gain access to the screw terminals however I'm concerned
that if I do remove the wires fitting a new socket may be extremely
difficult.

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink?Â* I'm aware that I will possibly have to use a
2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind the socket and use longer screws.

If you are confident to solder, then solder plus heat shrink is the way
to go. I'm always more comfortable with crimps if there is a decent
length of cable so that you can get maximum "squeeze" and don't risk the
cable slipping out slightly. Should not need a spacer (unless it is
already a shallow box for the replacement socket or wiring placement is
particularly unfavourable).

On 26/08/18 19:17, alan_m wrote:

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink?Â* I'm aware that I will possibly have to use a
2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind the socket and use longer screws.


Wago?

--
Adrian C

On 26/08/2018 22:14, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 26/08/18 19:17, alan_m wrote:

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such
as soldering and heat-shrink?Â* I'm aware that I will possibly have to
use a 2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind the socket and use
longer screws.


Wago?

Possibly too bulky?

Certainly acceptable in most cases.

--
Adam

On 27/08/2018 11:18, ARW wrote:
On 26/08/2018 22:14, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 26/08/18 19:17, alan_m wrote:

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such
as soldering and heat-shrink?Â* I'm aware that I will possibly have to
use a 2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind the socket and use
longer screws.


Wago?

Possibly too bulky?

Certainly acceptable in most cases.

That's the only problem I have with them sometimes. Generally, when
access is tight but there is plenty of wire, and space for fittings,
then they are my coupling of choice. There is a knack to using the
original junction boxes (which I still think look a bit nasty) but once
you have cracked it they are actually very quick and efficient.

(I do tend to use the lever ones rather than the push fit).

newshound wrote:

ARW wrote:

Adrian Caspersz wrote:

Wago?

Possibly too bulky?
Certainly acceptable in most cases.

That's the only problem I have with them sometimes.
(I do tend to use the lever ones rather than the push fit).

The newer 221 lever connectors are slimmer that the 222 ones.

https://toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Wago-221-Series-Lever-Wire-Connectors-vs-222-Lever-Nuts.jpg

On 27/08/2018 11:44, Andy Burns wrote:
newshound wrote:

ARW wrote:

Adrian Caspersz wrote:

Wago?

Possibly too bulky?
Certainly acceptable in most cases.

That's the only problem I have with them sometimes. (I do tend to use
the lever ones rather than the push fit).

The newer 221 lever connectors are slimmer that the 222 ones.

https://toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Wago-221-Series-Lever-Wire-Connectors-vs-222-Lever-Nuts.jpg


Neat, aren't they! I havn't used up my 222s yet.

On 27/08/2018 11:35, newshound wrote:
On 27/08/2018 11:18, ARW wrote:
On 26/08/2018 22:14, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 26/08/18 19:17, alan_m wrote:

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box
using crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other
suggestions such as soldering and heat-shrink?Â* I'm aware that I
will possibly have to use a 2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind
the socket and use longer screws.


Wago?

Possibly too bulky?

Certainly acceptable in most cases.

That's the only problem I have with them sometimes. Generally, when
access is tight but there is plenty of wire, and space for fittings,
then they are my coupling of choice. There is a knack to using the
original junction boxes (which I still think look a bit nasty) but once
you have cracked it they are actually very quick and efficient.

(I do tend to use the lever ones rather than the push fit).


The OPs question really deserves a new post about second fixing a socket
and cable length etc.

I'll post one after I get back from a stupid call out.





--
Adam

On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket. I speculate that the socket was originally
fitted with a minimal length of free wire and subsequently the wall was
tiled and the socket refitted.

I can move the socket approx 2cm from the surface of the wall which is
just enough to gain access to the screw terminals however I'm concerned
that if I do remove the wires fitting a new socket may be extremely
difficult.

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink? I'm aware that I will possibly have to use a
2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind the socket and use longer screws.

you can do those. just beware soldered joints need more overlap-twist than is obvious.


NT

On 27/08/2018 00:05, wrote:
On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket. I speculate that the socket was originally
fitted with a minimal length of free wire and subsequently the wall was
tiled and the socket refitted.

I can move the socket approx 2cm from the surface of the wall which is
just enough to gain access to the screw terminals however I'm concerned
that if I do remove the wires fitting a new socket may be extremely
difficult.

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink? I'm aware that I will possibly have to use a
2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind the socket and use longer screws.

you can do those. just beware soldered joints need more overlap-twist than is obvious.


NT

Provided the wires were properly cleaned and are soldered well, a simple
"lap joint" will be fine for wires which won't see any movement or
vibration. Also easier heat shrink neatly.

Anyone else remember desoldering ex-WD stuff from market stalls in the
60's to recover components? I believe I still have one or two field
telephone switches in one of my boxes.

newshound Wrote in message:
On 27/08/2018 00:05, wrote:
On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:
I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket. I speculate that the socket was originally
fitted with a minimal length of free wire and subsequently the wall was
tiled and the socket refitted.

I can move the socket approx 2cm from the surface of the wall which is
just enough to gain access to the screw terminals however I'm concerned
that if I do remove the wires fitting a new socket may be extremely
difficult.

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink? I'm aware that I will possibly have to use a
2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind the socket and use longer screws.

you can do those. just beware soldered joints need more overlap-twist than is obvious.


NT

Provided the wires were properly cleaned and are soldered well, a simple
"lap joint" will be fine for wires which won't see any movement or
vibration. Also easier heat shrink neatly.

Indeed.
;-)
--
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On Monday, 27 August 2018 10:31:04 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 27/08/2018 00:05, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 26 August 2018 19:17:38 UTC+1, alan_m wrote:

I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket. I speculate that the socket was originally
fitted with a minimal length of free wire and subsequently the wall was
tiled and the socket refitted.

I can move the socket approx 2cm from the surface of the wall which is
just enough to gain access to the screw terminals however I'm concerned
that if I do remove the wires fitting a new socket may be extremely
difficult.

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink? I'm aware that I will possibly have to use a
2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind the socket and use longer screws.

you can do those. just beware soldered joints need more overlap-twist than is obvious.


NT

Provided the wires were properly cleaned and are soldered well, a simple
"lap joint" will be fine for wires which won't see any movement or
vibration. Also easier heat shrink neatly.

Many times it'll work, sometimes it'll shear. Solder is much weaker than most realise. Any soldered joint needs support against movement to reliably survive even one pushing back into the box. So twist it repeatedly - what looks like enough turns isn't.


Anyone else remember desoldering ex-WD stuff from market stalls in the
60's to recover components? I believe I still have one or two field
telephone switches in one of my boxes.

standard practice in the 3rd world


NT

If its pvc, I'd not solder myself, but have seen crimping and sleeving used
in this sort of situation before in my own house.
Nothing has shorted or gone bang thus far!
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"alan_m" wrote in message
...

I need to replace a damaged double switched mains socket but anticipate
problems if I remove the existing socket. The problem is a lack of free
wire behind the socket. I speculate that the socket was originally fitted
with a minimal length of free wire and subsequently the wall was tiled and
the socket refitted.

I can move the socket approx 2cm from the surface of the wall which is
just enough to gain access to the screw terminals however I'm concerned
that if I do remove the wires fitting a new socket may be extremely
difficult.

Is it permissible to extend the length of wires in the back-box using
crimps (using the correct crimp tool)? Or any other suggestions such as
soldering and heat-shrink? I'm aware that I will possibly have to use a
2-gang spacer to gain extra space behind the socket and use longer screws.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 27/08/2018 09:20, Brian Gaff wrote:
If its pvc, I'd not solder myself, but have seen crimping and sleeving used
in this sort of situation before in my own house.
Nothing has shorted or gone bang thus far!
Brian


Properly done crimps are better than solder. They are more reliable and
easier too.