Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can put plug on end of wiring for light also and just plug this is leaving me with one space socket).

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

is this wiring actually on the lighting ring?
If yes, then no.
I'd not chance it, in any case the breaker on that ring would probably pop
if you used it with a vacuum or angle grinder when the motor started!
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"paulfoel" wrote in message
...
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just a
pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it
acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can put
plug on end of wiring for light also and just plug this is leaving me with
one space socket).

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

On 10/02/2014 15:00, paulfoel wrote:
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just
a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it
acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can
put plug on end of wiring for light also and just plug this is
leaving me with one space socket).

It would seem sensible to split the feed to leave the light permanently
wired, and then have a socket connected via a fused spur unit.

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

If you fused the socket (via the spur) at 3 or 5A[1] and labelled the
socket accordingly, it would be ok for powering low current appliances.
This kind of thing is often done for supplies to aerial amps or TV
distribution amplifiers etc.

[1] Depending on the rating of the protective device for the whole
circuit, and the existing load on it from other lamps.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Oh, I used a clock point for that sort of thing, I have to say, but then
I'm weird.
Brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________


"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 10/02/2014 15:00, paulfoel wrote:
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just
a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it
acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can
put plug on end of wiring for light also and just plug this is
leaving me with one space socket).

It would seem sensible to split the feed to leave the light permanently
wired, and then have a socket connected via a fused spur unit.

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

If you fused the socket (via the spur) at 3 or 5A[1] and labelled the
socket accordingly, it would be ok for powering low current appliances.
This kind of thing is often done for supplies to aerial amps or TV
distribution amplifiers etc.

[1] Depending on the rating of the protective device for the whole
circuit, and the existing load on it from other lamps.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Oh, I used a clock point for that sort of thing, I have to say, but
then I'm weird.

More normal plug/socket combination to use on a lighting circuit would be
2 or 5 amp three pin - that's why they are still available from nearly all
makers of wiring accessories.

But if you wish to use something like a lead light or other device fitted
with a 13 amp plug, you'll need a 13 amp socket. With the wiring protected
by a FCU with a 5 amp fuse.

--
*I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 10/02/2014 16:40, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Oh, I used a clock point for that sort of thing, I have to say, but
then I'm weird.

More normal plug/socket combination to use on a lighting circuit would be
2 or 5 amp three pin - that's why they are still available from nearly all
makers of wiring accessories.

But if you wish to use something like a lead light or other device fitted
with a 13 amp plug, you'll need a 13 amp socket. With the wiring protected
by a FCU with a 5 amp fuse.

Or use with a self-made flex having a 13A socket at one end and a 2A or
5A plug at the other? Thus leaving the fixed wiring relatively
standard/safe but allowing use of things with 13A plugs on them (up to
some appropriate current limit).

--
Rod

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Oh, I used a clock point for that sort of thing, I have to say, but
then I'm weird.

More normal plug/socket combination to use on a lighting circuit
would be 2 or 5 amp three pin - that's why they are still available
from nearly all makers of wiring accessories.

But if you wish to use something like a lead light or other device
fitted with a 13 amp plug, you'll need a 13 amp socket. With the
wiring protected by a FCU with a 5 amp fuse.

No need for the 5A FCU. The 6A MCB or 5A fuse will take care of any
overload.

Now what is required is the labelling of the 13A socket. eg "TV amp/loft
light ONLY"

Sometimes you just have to fit 13A sockets for the TV amp/LED lighting wall
warts that you want to power.

--

Adam

On 10/02/2014 20:40, ARW wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Brian Gaff wrote:
Oh, I used a clock point for that sort of thing, I have to say, but
then I'm weird.

More normal plug/socket combination to use on a lighting circuit
would be 2 or 5 amp three pin - that's why they are still available
from nearly all makers of wiring accessories.

But if you wish to use something like a lead light or other device
fitted with a 13 amp plug, you'll need a 13 amp socket. With the
wiring protected by a FCU with a 5 amp fuse.

No need for the 5A FCU. The 6A MCB or 5A fuse will take care of any
overload.

My reason for including it was not for protection of the wiring, but for
adding discrimination if possible. I.e. it would be nice if overloading
the current budget for the socket blew only its fuse rather than taking
out the lights in the loft you happen to be in at the time! (especially
if its not boarded and you now have to find your way back to the hatch
in the dark)

Now what is required is the labelling of the 13A socket. eg "TV amp/loft
light ONLY"

Sometimes you just have to fit 13A sockets for the TV amp/LED lighting wall
warts that you want to power.

yup

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 10/02/2014 20:40, ARW wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


But if you wish to use something like a lead light or other device
fitted with a 13 amp plug, you'll need a 13 amp socket. With the
wiring protected by a FCU with a 5 amp fuse.

No need for the 5A FCU. The 6A MCB or 5A fuse will take care of any
overload.


Except that that will take out the lights, too - plunging the attic into
darkness!

Now what is required is the labelling of the 13A socket. eg "TV amp/loft
light ONLY"

Sometimes you just have to fit 13A sockets for the TV amp/LED lighting wall
warts that you want to power.


Unless you make up a short extension lead with an in-line 13A socket at
one end and a more appropriate plug at the other.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

"Brian Gaff" wrote in
:

Oh, I used a clock point for that sort of thing, I have to say, but
then I'm weird.
Brian


I did the same for an aerial amp.

--

DerbyBorn

DerbyBorn wrote:
"Brian Gaff" wrote in
:

Oh, I used a clock point for that sort of thing, I have to say, but
then I'm weird.
Brian


I did the same for an aerial amp.


Some electricians always used a fit a 2A socket in the loft for us. I
put a little amp in every loft on an 80 dwelling job, and I got pretty
adept at fitting them liddle plugs. It worried me that there was no plug
top fuse but the experts waved their hands airily and assured me that
there wouldn't be a problem.

Bill

On 11/02/2014 20:42, Bill Wright wrote:
DerbyBorn wrote:
"Brian Gaff" wrote in
:
Oh, I used a clock point for that sort of thing, I have to say, but
then I'm weird.
Brian


I did the same for an aerial amp.


Some electricians always used a fit a 2A socket in the loft for us. I
put a little amp in every loft on an 80 dwelling job, and I got pretty
adept at fitting them liddle plugs. It worried me that there was no plug
top fuse but the experts waved their hands airily and assured me that
there wouldn't be a problem.

Well you have two considerations in these cases: overload protection and
fault protection. Since its one fixed appliance with little scope for a
user to change or alter it, then you can legitimately ignore the
possibility of overload. Fault protection must be provided, but you can
normally demonstrate that with a small MCB at the origin of the circuit,
it will provide adequate protection for even relatively lightweight
appliance flexes on your 2A plug.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

paulfoel wrote:
Is it acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket.

Make your mind up, a plug or a socket? They are two different things.

jgh

paulfoel wrote:
Is it acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket.

Make your mind up, a plug or a socket? They are two different things.

jgh



What's your problem? Calling it a double plug socket makes perfect sense. Is
far better than those that call sockets plugs and plugs "plug tops"!

I do have a single plug socket from the lighting ring in my loft but its a 5
amp round pin socket that powers the aerial booster. Never connect a 13 amp
socked as who knows what someone may try to run from it.

Mike

In article ,
Muddymike wrote:
What's your problem? Calling it a double plug socket makes perfect
sense. Is far better than those that call sockets plugs and plugs "plug
tops"!

I'm wondering what is confusing about plug and socket? Why does either
need any extra description?

--
*Why were the Indians here first? They had reservations.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article , Muddymike
writes
paulfoel wrote:
Is it acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket.

Make your mind up, a plug or a socket? They are two different things.

jgh



What's your problem? Calling it a double plug socket makes perfect sense. Is
far better than those that call sockets plugs and plugs "plug tops"!

Well, it's hardly a definitive description, is it?

I'm thinking of putting a socket in my loft.

What kind of socket?

A plug socket.

Errrrrrrr?


In short, it adds nothing to the description.


I'm thinking of putting a new plug socket behind the telly.

Is that a phono plug socket, HDMI socket, phone plug socket, VGA plug
socket, RJ45 plug socket, F-type plug socket, Belling-Lee plug socket,
13A plug socket, 5A (lighting) plug socket or some other kind of plug
socket?


Those that use the term seem to think it is the most logical term in the
world but I just can't see the logic behind it.


Personally I'd say 13A socket, 13A dual socket, 13A single socket or
whatever.

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

In article , Muddymike
writes
paulfoel wrote:
Is it acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket.

Make your mind up, a plug or a socket? They are two different things.

jgh



What's your problem? Calling it a double plug socket makes perfect sense.
Is
far better than those that call sockets plugs and plugs "plug tops"!

Well, it's hardly a definitive description, is it?

I'm thinking of putting a socket in my loft.

What kind of socket?

A plug socket.

Errrrrrrr?


In short, it adds nothing to the description.


I'm thinking of putting a new plug socket behind the telly.

Is that a phono plug socket, HDMI socket, phone plug socket, VGA plug
socket, RJ45 plug socket, F-type plug socket, Belling-Lee plug socket, 13A
plug socket, 5A (lighting) plug socket or some other kind of plug socket?


Those that use the term seem to think it is the most logical term in the
world but I just can't see the logic behind it.


Personally I'd say 13A socket, 13A dual socket, 13A single socket or
whatever.


This is a DIY group. Not every DIY person has a full grasp of professional
terminology including myself. He made the situation perfectly clear in the
first sentence (which I notice has been clipped out) explaining what he
wanted to do.

Asking, what type of double plug socket? May have been constructive,
commenting "Make your mind up, a plug or a socket? They are two different
things." Just makes the writer sound like a smart arse with nothing to
contribute!

That remains my opinion.

Mike

In article , Muddymike
writes
In article , Muddymike
writes

Personally I'd say 13A socket, 13A dual socket, 13A single socket or
whatever.

This is a DIY group. Not every DIY person has a full grasp of professional
terminology including myself. He made the situation perfectly clear in the
first sentence (which I notice has been clipped out) explaining what he
wanted to do.

Professional terminology like 13A socket ;-)

Asking, what type of double plug socket? May have been constructive,
commenting "Make your mind up, a plug or a socket? They are two different
things." Just makes the writer sound like a smart arse with nothing to
contribute!

That remains my opinion.

Actually you're quite right and it's a helpful reminder, never a
negative without a positive[1], so it's fine to make a correction but
only after offering a solution or constructive suggestion on the problem
at hand which was not done in the case you pointed out.

My bessie mate has the 'plug socket' mental block and I am have no
reservations about ripping the **** out of him over it but he is a
software engineer and so cannot be expected to have a grasp of the real
world.

[1] There are no prizes for finding instances where I have failed to do
this but I sit suitably reminded for the future.

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On 10/02/2014 15:00, paulfoel wrote:
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can put plug on end of wiring for light also and just plug this is leaving me with one space socket).

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

Not a good idea! What size cable feeds the lighting circuit, and how is
it protected at the CU - what value of fuse, breaker, etc.?

If you only want to use low power appliances up there, you might get way
with connecting a socket via an FCU with a 5 amp fuse in it - but it's
far from good practice!
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

paulfoel wrote:
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just
a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it
acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can
put plug on end of wiring for light also and just plug this is
leaving me with one space socket).

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

It'll be on the lighting circuit.
Meaning that if you turn all the sockets off at the CU, this socket will
still be live.
It also means that if whatever you have plugged into it trips, the whole
lighting circuit will trip.

Whether this is 'acceptable' is up to you and no one can stop you, but it's
not really advisable....if it's only going to be used for occasional use,
it's probably easier just to run an extension reel up there when required.

Phil L explained :
paulfoel wrote:
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just
a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it
acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can
put plug on end of wiring for light also and just plug this is
leaving me with one space socket).

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

It'll be on the lighting circuit.
Meaning that if you turn all the sockets off at the CU, this socket will
still be live.
It also means that if whatever you have plugged into it trips, the whole
lighting circuit will trip.

Whether this is 'acceptable' is up to you and no one can stop you, but it's
not really advisable....if it's only going to be used for occasional use,
it's probably easier just to run an extension reel up there when required.

I agree, you have to consider that someone may come along and assume it
is safe to plug a 3Kw heater in there. Much safer would be to run a
spur off the upstairs ring, to a twin 13 amp socket, then use one
outlet for the light, via a suitably small fuse in the plug, leaving
you one outlet for your angle grinder, wander light, or what ever.

There is almost always an easy cable route from the 1st floor
floor-level, upto the loft space - airing cupboard etc..

If you then somehow manage to trip that, you will still have some
working light on the floor below.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Monday 10 February 2014 16:17 Harry Bloomfield wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Phil L explained :
paulfoel wrote:
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just
a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it
acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can
put plug on end of wiring for light also and just plug this is
leaving me with one space socket).

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

It'll be on the lighting circuit.
Meaning that if you turn all the sockets off at the CU, this socket
will still be live.
It also means that if whatever you have plugged into it trips, the
whole lighting circuit will trip.

Whether this is 'acceptable' is up to you and no one can stop you,
but it's not really advisable....if it's only going to be used for
occasional use, it's probably easier just to run an extension reel up
there when required.

I agree, you have to consider that someone may come along and assume
it is safe to plug a 3Kw heater in there. Much safer would be to run a
spur off the upstairs ring, to a twin 13 amp socket, then use one
outlet for the light, via a suitably small fuse in the plug, leaving
you one outlet for your angle grinder, wander light, or what ever.

There is almost always an easy cable route from the 1st floor
floor-level, upto the loft space - airing cupboard etc..

If you then somehow manage to trip that, you will still have some
working light on the floor below.


well, in the worst case, it will take out the protective device (fuse) -
which will be annoying, but not actually dangerous...

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal
coverage

On 10/02/2014 17:14, Tim Watts wrote:
On Monday 10 February 2014 16:17 Harry Bloomfield wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Phil L explained :
paulfoel wrote:
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just
a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it
acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can
put plug on end of wiring for light also and just plug this is
leaving me with one space socket).

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

It'll be on the lighting circuit.
Meaning that if you turn all the sockets off at the CU, this socket
will still be live.
It also means that if whatever you have plugged into it trips, the
whole lighting circuit will trip.

Whether this is 'acceptable' is up to you and no one can stop you,
but it's not really advisable....if it's only going to be used for
occasional use, it's probably easier just to run an extension reel up
there when required.

I agree, you have to consider that someone may come along and assume
it is safe to plug a 3Kw heater in there. Much safer would be to run a
spur off the upstairs ring, to a twin 13 amp socket, then use one
outlet for the light, via a suitably small fuse in the plug, leaving
you one outlet for your angle grinder, wander light, or what ever.

There is almost always an easy cable route from the 1st floor
floor-level, upto the loft space - airing cupboard etc..

If you then somehow manage to trip that, you will still have some
working light on the floor below.


well, in the worst case, it will take out the protective device (fuse) -
which will be annoying, but not actually dangerous...

A 5A fuse in a spur probably won't blow before the 6A breaker in the CU
anyway so its not actually going to improve protection.
It may make the circuit easier to understand.

dennis@home wrote:

A 5A fuse in a spur probably won't blow before the 6A breaker in the
CU anyway so its not actually going to improve protection.

Thank you.

--

Adam

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:27:09 +0000, "dennis@home"
wrote:

On 10/02/2014 17:14, Tim Watts wrote:
On Monday 10 February 2014 16:17 Harry Bloomfield wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Phil L explained :
paulfoel wrote:
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just
a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it
acceptable to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can
put plug on end of wiring for light also and just plug this is
leaving me with one space socket).

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

It'll be on the lighting circuit.
Meaning that if you turn all the sockets off at the CU, this socket
will still be live.
It also means that if whatever you have plugged into it trips, the
whole lighting circuit will trip.

Whether this is 'acceptable' is up to you and no one can stop you,
but it's not really advisable....if it's only going to be used for
occasional use, it's probably easier just to run an extension reel up
there when required.

I agree, you have to consider that someone may come along and assume
it is safe to plug a 3Kw heater in there. Much safer would be to run a
spur off the upstairs ring, to a twin 13 amp socket, then use one
outlet for the light, via a suitably small fuse in the plug, leaving
you one outlet for your angle grinder, wander light, or what ever.

There is almost always an easy cable route from the 1st floor
floor-level, upto the loft space - airing cupboard etc..

If you then somehow manage to trip that, you will still have some
working light on the floor below.


well, in the worst case, it will take out the protective device (fuse) -
which will be annoying, but not actually dangerous...

A 5A fuse in a spur probably won't blow before the 6A breaker in the CU
anyway so its not actually going to improve protection.
It may make the circuit easier to understand.


Electrically speaking, you can wire a 13A socket straight off the
lighting wiring without compromising safety, provided the lighting
circuit remains fused at its 6 amp maximum limit.

If you're fitting a 13A socket in the loft or attic, it's usually for
the purposes of providing power to something like a masthead amp or TV
aerial distribution amp both of which would be more than amply served
by a half amp fuse[1] which minimises the risk of a house fire should
a fault develop on the (now fused) 13A socket spur.

Of course, there still remains the risk of a fire from a fault in the
amplifier kit itself but, provided it has been designed to the
mandatory safety requirements for such 'domestic appliances' this
aught to eliminate such risk. The only problem is that, unlike a radio
or hairdrier, it is operating 'out of sight' of any human supervision.

I'd be inclined to mount such devices on a metal shelf with heat
resistant deflectors (steel sheeting) to stop any flamage from
reaching any flamable construction materials and, for good measure,
install a loud smoke detector above, but to one side of said kit,
ideally with a repeater just outside of the loft hatchway or attic
doorway.

In my case, that last bit of paranoia has remained merely an idle
inclination to this day (although I might try the smoke alarm idea).

[1] If you needed to provide power for powertools, you'd just plug in
a suitable mains lead extension into one of your regular 13A sockets
unless you were planning on turning your attic into a workshop (in
which case we wouldn't be discussing the use of a lighting circuit
feed for a 13A socket now, would we?).

Fitting a 13A fused box in the spur feed to the 13A socket allows you
to fit a half or 1 amp fuse which will be more than ample for the
socket's intended purpose yet reduce the risk of a fault on the spur
from blacking out that lighting circuit. It's just a matter of "Good
Practice" and common sense to splash out on such a 'luxury item'.

The same applies to fusing up 30A ring main circuits with lower rated
fuses when appropriate. My top floor ring main currently has a 15A
fuse link fitted because the only loads are my son's "HiFi" and
widescreen TV and computer stuff with no 2kW electric fan heaters in
sight.

The 15A fuse link has never blown in the past 7 or 8 years since I
downgraded the circuit to a "15A Ring Main". The risk of a fire in the
ring main circuit, though slight enough to be deemed acceptable
according to the regulations is now somewhat safer again.

I like the principle that you can replace a large fuse link in an
existing fuse carrier with smaller rated fuse links (Wylex CU) since
it makes it very simple to downgrade the ciruit capacity on an as
needed basis without compromising safety (in this case, boosting
safety), since it's a trivial exercise to refit the original larger
fuse should the smaller one blow due to unanticipated overload.
--
Regards, J B Good

paulfoel wrote:
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it acceptable

to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can put plug on end
of wiring for light also and just plug this is leaving me with one space
socket).

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

Feed the supply to a 5A fused spur unit and feed that to the 13A socket,
and label the socket 'Max load 5A'. That's what they usually do for
aerial amps. You do need to pick up an earth from the lighting circuit
though, so if there isn't one you're stuffed.

Years ago I went to a block of flats to find out why the TV system
didn't work very well. There was no amp in loft above the communal
stairs, but I could see coaxes passing across that loft into the loft of
a flat, so I got into there and found the amp, which was strategically
placed midway between a lighting terminal box and a steel housing which
was something to do with the warden call system. The mains cable for the
amp had been stripped back by about two feet. The brown wire went to the
lighting terminal box and the blue one went to one of the screws that
held the lid on the metal box. This was not the cause of the fault,
which was simply that the amp was overloaded by aerial signal. However I
made myself unpopular by disconnecting the amp (which left the residents
with no reception rather than poor reception) pending the arrival the
next day of an electrician.

Bill

On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 20:52:42 +0000, Bill Wright
wrote:

paulfoel wrote:
Currently got wiring in the attic that runs a light. Originally just a pull switch and bulb/holder but I've replaced with strip light.

However, what I want to do now is have plug socket up there. Is it acceptable

to run this wire into a double plug socket. (Then I can put plug on end
of wiring for light also and just plug this is leaving me with one space
socket).

Or leave well alone because its a light circuit?

Feed the supply to a 5A fused spur unit and feed that to the 13A socket,
and label the socket 'Max load 5A'. That's what they usually do for
aerial amps. You do need to pick up an earth from the lighting circuit
though, so if there isn't one you're stuffed.


Assuming we're dealing with 'modern' lighting circuits which are
required to include a protective earth, if you're going to use a FIVE
AMP fuse inline, you might as well forego the luxury of such a fuse
box connection altogether for your 13A socket spur and just use an
ordinary joint box to tap into the lighting circuit.

The 6A fuse or CB at the CU will still provide the same level of
fault protection on the lighting circuit and exceed safety
requirements for the attached 13A Socket circuit. With a 5A fuse
you're just as likely to see the 6A fuse blow (or CB trip) at the CU
as you are the 5A cartridge fuse in the spur fuse box.

The extra fuse protection only makes sense with 3A or lower rated
fuses fitted. You can always fit a 13A[1] fuse on a temporary basis to
allow you to use a powertool or whatever that draws just less than the
6A limit on the lighting circuit with all bar the one lamp switched
off whenever you want to avoid the hassle of digging out and setting
up a mains extension cord from a regular mains socket.

[1] If you're going to swap out the regular 1, 2 or 3 amp fuse, you
might as well fit a 13A fuse and work to the 6A limit of the lighting
circuit protection.
--
Regards, J B Good