I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower roller
so decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the inside of the
race and then tacked a plate on the end so I could knock it out ... but
it fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.

On Sun, 13 May 2018 17:20:28 +0100, wrote:

I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower roller
so decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the inside of the
race and then tacked a plate on the end so I could knock it out ... but
it fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.

Another and possibly easier way is to use my internal bearing
extractor with slide hammer (assuming I have one that fits the ID of
the bearing etc).

But you are right about the heating effect ... I once froze a
motorcycle wheel bearing whilst heating the ally wheel with a hot air
gun and the bearing just dropped in! It also came out a lot easier
when warming the wheel up as well.

I just re-bearinged a couple of trailer hubs and having a 10 tonne
hydraulic press and a lathe to turn suitable 'pushing' tools makes
that sort of job a breeze as well. ;-)

I've also got a set of external bearing pullers that again, as long as
you can get them into place make such jobs very easy (as does having a
welder etc).

Cheers, T i m

On 13/05/2018 17:35, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 13 May 2018 17:20:28 +0100, wrote:

I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower roller
so decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the inside of the
race and then tacked a plate on the end so I could knock it out ... but
it fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.

Another and possibly easier way is to use my internal bearing
extractor with slide hammer (assuming I have one that fits the ID of
the bearing etc).
Mine didn't fit :-(

But you are right about the heating effect ... I once froze a
motorcycle wheel bearing whilst heating the ally wheel with a hot air
gun and the bearing just dropped in! It also came out a lot easier
when warming the wheel up as well.
Yes, I've done that in the past. In this case I was surprised that
heating (rather than cooling) the race worked so well - I presume it
transferred heat to the housing and then shrank back faster than the
housing.

I just re-bearinged a couple of trailer hubs and having a 10 tonne
hydraulic press and a lathe to turn suitable 'pushing' tools makes
that sort of job a breeze as well. ;-)
I've often wondered about making a press with an old bottle jack but
there's always been another way of solving problems so I haven't needed
to do it.

I've also got a set of external bearing pullers that again, as long as
you can get them into place make such jobs very easy (as does having a
welder etc).
Mine fall off, or the centre bolt wanders around on whatever it' pushing
against. I used a Dremel slitting disc to cutter the inner races so I
could crack them off the shaft.

It's down to the bearing suppliers tomorrow for the new bearings, then I
can continue mowing :-(

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 13 May 2018 17:20:28 +0100, nothanks wrote:

I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower roller
so decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the inside of the
race and then tacked a plate on the end so I could knock it out ... but
it fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.

That's the thing about interference fits and heat. :-)



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protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

On 13/05/2018 18:00, wrote:


I've also got a set of external bearing pullers that again, as long as
you can get them into place make such jobs very easy (as does having a
welder etc).
Mine fall off, or the centre bolt wanders around on whatever it' pushing
against. I used a Dremel slitting disc to cutter the inner races so I
could crack them off the shaft.

Yes, that's a great technique especially on "heat sensitive" hardware.

Going back to the "welding" approach, that will make the bearing lose
its temper. Most such metallurgical transformations result in a
dimensional change, I don't recall which way it goes for bearing steel
ATM but sounds like they must shrink. The heat will also "cook" any
sticky degraded oil residues. I've never been quite sure why a gas axe
is so effective on things like exhaust pipe clamps. You don't have to
melt them off, get the bolts red hot and they usually unscrew easily
(even though you might expect any new oxide created to make them tighter).

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On Sun, 13 May 2018 18:00:24 +0100, wrote:

snip

Yes, I've done that in the past. In this case I was surprised that
heating (rather than cooling) the race worked so well - I presume it
transferred heat to the housing and then shrank back faster than the
housing.

Could be?

I just re-bearinged a couple of trailer hubs and having a 10 tonne
hydraulic press and a lathe to turn suitable 'pushing' tools makes
that sort of job a breeze as well. ;-)

I've often wondered about making a press with an old bottle jack but
there's always been another way of solving problems so I haven't needed
to do it.

Sure, there are often many way of doing stuff but now I have one, I
wouldn't be without it. ;-)

I've also got a set of external bearing pullers that again, as long as
you can get them into place make such jobs very easy (as does having a
welder etc).

Mine fall off, or the centre bolt wanders around on whatever it' pushing
against.

I think they normally have a centre point and the end of the shaft a
hole? If they don't I turn up a little adaptor. ;-)

I used a Dremel slitting disc to cutter the inner races so I
could crack them off the shaft.

That's another way. ;-)

It's down to the bearing suppliers tomorrow for the new bearings, then I
can continue mowing :-(

Good luck. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

In article ,
says...


That's the thing about interference fits and heat. :-)

I remember being fascinated by the way they put the tyres onto
railway wheels.

I pooh-poohed the idea at first, thinking that tyres were
always made of rubber and trains don't have rubber tyres!

(I was about 12 at the time.)



--

Terry

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On 14/05/18 11:12, Terry Casey wrote:
In article ,
says...


That's the thing about interference fits and heat. :-)

I remember being fascinated by the way they put the tyres onto
railway wheels.

I pooh-poohed the idea at first, thinking that tyres were
always made of rubber and trains don't have rubber tyres!

(I was about 12 at the time.)



Or how they put new tyres onto wooden waggon wheels...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQSMs-b0Jzg
31 minutes onwards

--
"Anyone who believes that the laws of physics are mere social
conventions is invited to try transgressing those conventions from the
windows of my apartment. (I live on the twenty-first floor.) "

Alan Sokal

On 13/05/2018 17:20, wrote:
I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower roller
so decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the inside of the
race and then tacked a plate on the end so I could knock it out ... but
it fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.

There's also the grease and rag method, as demonstrated he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w62c4NQDwP0&t=37s

"Lee" wrote in message
...
On 13/05/2018 17:20, wrote:
I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower roller so
decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the inside of the race
and then tacked a plate on the end so I could knock it out ... but it
fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.

There's also the grease and rag method, as demonstrated he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w62c4NQDwP0&t=37s

Not at all clear exactly what he did there or why it works.

On 14/05/2018 20:07, Rod Speed wrote:


"Lee" wrote in message
...
On 13/05/2018 17:20, wrote:
I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower
roller so decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the
inside of the race and then tacked a plate on the end so I could
knock it out ... but it fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.

There's also the grease and rag method, as demonstrated he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w62c4NQDwP0&t=37s

Not at all clear exactly what he did there or why it works.

The guy does have a certain "style" admittedly. But he did explain it,
the rag and grease are used as a seal and the bearing is removed
hydraulically.

There is another video from someone with a more conventional style, this
time using kitchen towel and water as the hydraulic seal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggsEewAg2YM

Just thought it might be useful to mention for where the use of heat
might not be an option.

On Mon, 14 May 2018 11:12:24 +0100, Terry Casey
wrote:

In article ,
says...


That's the thing about interference fits and heat. :-)

I remember being fascinated by the way they put the tyres onto
railway wheels.

I pooh-poohed the idea at first, thinking that tyres were
always made of rubber and trains don't have rubber tyres!

(I was about 12 at the time.)

About the same age I learned that some of the train is going backward
when it is going forward. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Lee wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Lee wrote
wrote

I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower roller
so decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the inside of the
race and then tacked a plate on the end so I could knock it out ... but
it fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.

There's also the grease and rag method, as demonstrated he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w62c4NQDwP0&t=37s

Not at all clear exactly what he did there or why it works.

The guy does have a certain "style" admittedly. But he did explain it, the
rag and grease are used as a seal and the bearing is removed
hydraulically.

He didnt say anything at all about it being removed hydraulically
and didnt even explain that the thing you are hammering in needs
to be a decent seal with the inner of the bearing for it to work either
or that the cloth is necessary so that the grease doesnt just get
moved thru the bearing itself when the drift is hammered.

There is another video from someone with a more conventional style, this
time using kitchen towel and water as the hydraulic seal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggsEewAg2YM

Just thought it might be useful to mention for where the use of heat might
not be an option.

Yeah, very useful technique, but it does need to be pointed out
that it works hydraulically, that was the problem with the original.

On 14/05/18 20:07, Rod Speed wrote:


"Lee" wrote in message
...
On 13/05/2018 17:20, wrote:
I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower
roller so decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the
inside of the race and then tacked a plate on the end so I could
knock it out ... but it fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.

There's also the grease and rag method, as demonstrated he s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w62c4NQDwP0&t=37s

Not at all clear exactly what he did there or why it works.


I THINK it is the 'hydrolyic' method. You fill the hole with grease and
use something as a piston to compress the grease into the hole- the rag
helps the seal. The pressure of the grease, forces the bearing out.

I've seen it done in a pilot bearing before (car gear box/clutch).

"Brian Reay" wrote in message
news
On 14/05/18 20:07, Rod Speed wrote:


"Lee" wrote in message
...
On 13/05/2018 17:20, wrote:
I was struggling to get the outer bearing race out of the mower roller
so decided to try a spot of weld. I ran a bead around the inside of the
race and then tacked a plate on the end so I could knock it out ... but
it fell out!
Put here in case it helps someone.

There's also the grease and rag method, as demonstrated he s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w62c4NQDwP0&t=37s

Not at all clear exactly what he did there or why it works.


I THINK it is the 'hydrolyic' method. You fill the hole with grease and
use something as a piston to compress the grease into the hole- the rag
helps the seal. The pressure of the grease, forces the bearing out.

I've seen it done in a pilot bearing before (car gear box/clutch).

Yeah, that does make sense. It wasnt clear that the original was
actually in a blind hole, complete lack of any detail like that.

And presumably grease and cloth works better than paper towel
and water too, not needing the drift to be such a good fit to the
inner of the bearing.