The shaft diameter on the inner side of the bearing in question is
larger than on the outer side, the larger inner shaft diameter
prevents my bearing puller from grabbing the bearings inner race.

Can an ordinary ball bearing be pulled off of a shaft by the
bearing's outer race without damaging the bearing?

Thanks.

Come to think of it... My bearing puller could not reach the inner
race even if it wanted to

Just seems kind of strange that the force will not damage the
bearing.

On 17 Feb 2011 03:32:18 GMT, John Doe wrote:

The shaft diameter on the inner side of the bearing in question is
larger than on the outer side, the larger inner shaft diameter
prevents my bearing puller from grabbing the bearings inner race.

Can an ordinary ball bearing be pulled off of a shaft by the
bearing's outer race without damaging the bearing?

Depends on how hard you have to pull to get it off the shaft.

--
Ned Simmons

"John Doe" wrote in message
b.com...
The shaft diameter on the inner side of the bearing in question is
larger than on the outer side, the larger inner shaft diameter
prevents my bearing puller from grabbing the bearings inner race.

Can an ordinary ball bearing be pulled off of a shaft by the
bearing's outer race without damaging the bearing?

Thanks.


Last situation I had this was on a Hino truck - front wheel bearings. I had
to trash the bearing to get it off. There was quite a bit of force needed to
remove the inner race from the hub shaft.

"John Doe" wrote in message
b.com...
The shaft diameter on the inner side of the bearing in question is
larger than on the outer side, the larger inner shaft diameter
prevents my bearing puller from grabbing the bearings inner race.

Can an ordinary ball bearing be pulled off of a shaft by the
bearing's outer race without damaging the bearing?

Thanks.

IMHO, if you can get the bearing off by pulling the outer race without trashing it
then it wasn't fit to the shaft properly.

On 2/17/2011 6:14 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:

IMHO, if you can get the bearing off by pulling the outer race without trashing it
then it wasn't fit to the shaft properly.


Could be you're "old school"?
I used to work at a place that had two fitters - one near retirement,
and a young bloke. They had different views on how to fit bearings. The
older fellow liked a good tight press fit, "until you can see water seep
from the pores of the metal". The younger would instead use strips of
abrasive cloth to make the shafts, which were about 3 inches diam, so
that the inner bearing was a sliding fit. He reckoned his machines in
service outlast his senior colleague's.

"Jordan" wrote in message
gpond.com...
On 2/17/2011 6:14 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:

IMHO, if you can get the bearing off by pulling the outer race without trashing it
then it wasn't fit to the shaft properly.


Could be you're "old school"?
I used to work at a place that had two fitters - one near retirement, and a young
bloke. They had different views on how to fit bearings. The older fellow liked a
good tight press fit, "until you can see water seep from the pores of the metal".
The younger would instead use strips of abrasive cloth to make the shafts, which
were about 3 inches diam, so that the inner bearing was a sliding fit. He reckoned
his machines in service outlast his senior colleague's.

Yep, plenty of opinions, I only have my limited experience and I hate welding shafts
after a race spins. I like a smooth, good fit and I often heat my bearings with a
light bulb and then push them on. Not exactly a shrink fit but... It depends on the
bearing and the application. With super precision bearings in a high-speed
application they will fail prematurely with any mishandling or if you even look at
them wrong. OTOH, beat a 6502 on or off with a hammer and a screwdriver.

On 17 Feb 2011 03:32:18 GMT, John Doe wrote:

Can an ordinary ball bearing be pulled off of a shaft by the
bearing's outer race without damaging the bearing?

As a general rule of thumb, you should assume the bearing will be
damaged. But bearings are (usually) cheap, so once you have taken the
trouble to remove it, it probably makes sense to install a fresh one
anyway.
--
RoRo

On Feb 16, 10:32*pm, John Doe wrote:
The shaft diameter on the inner side of the bearing in question is
larger than on the outer side, the larger inner shaft diameter
prevents my bearing puller from grabbing the bearings inner race.

Can an ordinary ball bearing be pulled off of a shaft by the
bearing's outer race without damaging the bearing?

Thanks.

Tried this type of puller?

http://www.scooterhelp.com/tips/engi....bearing07.jpg

jsw

On 2/17/2011 2:31 AM, Robert Roland wrote:

As a general rule of thumb, you should assume the bearing will be
damaged. But bearings are (usually) cheap, so once you have taken the
trouble to remove it, it probably makes sense to install a fresh one
anyway.

Generally, I view ball bearings much like a clutch throwout bearing. For
all the work to get down to that level, it just seems a good thing to
replace them while I'm in there.

There are very specialized bearing pullers that will grab either the
inner, or outer race, by the ball race. Transmission shops often have a
decent selection according to a mechanic friend of mine. They are
painfully expensive, so not many people buy them that don't need them
fairly often, as they are generally specific to one bearing size.

OP might call around and see if he can find someone with such a puller
that will remove his bearing.


Jon

On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 09:44:56 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

On 2/17/2011 2:31 AM, Robert Roland wrote:

As a general rule of thumb, you should assume the bearing will be
damaged. But bearings are (usually) cheap, so once you have taken the
trouble to remove it, it probably makes sense to install a fresh one
anyway.

Generally, I view ball bearings much like a clutch throwout bearing. For
all the work to get down to that level, it just seems a good thing to
replace them while I'm in there.

I've advised friends to do that and they haven't always done it. A
couple times, within a month, they'd have the whole tranny back out to
replace either the pilot bushing or TO bearing.


There are very specialized bearing pullers that will grab either the
inner, or outer race, by the ball race. Transmission shops often have a
decent selection according to a mechanic friend of mine. They are
painfully expensive, so not many people buy them that don't need them
fairly often, as they are generally specific to one bearing size.

OP might call around and see if he can find someone with such a puller
that will remove his bearing.

Autozone loans tools like that, usually free with deposit.

--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson

"Jon Anderson" wrote in message
...
On 2/17/2011 2:31 AM, Robert Roland wrote:

As a general rule of thumb, you should assume the bearing will be
damaged. But bearings are (usually) cheap, so once you have taken the
trouble to remove it, it probably makes sense to install a fresh one
anyway.

Generally, I view ball bearings much like a clutch throwout bearing. For
all the work to get down to that level, it just seems a good thing to
replace them while I'm in there.

There are very specialized bearing pullers that will grab either the
inner, or outer race, by the ball race. Transmission shops often have a
decent selection according to a mechanic friend of mine. They are
painfully expensive, so not many people buy them that don't need them
fairly often, as they are generally specific to one bearing size.

OP might call around and see if he can find someone with such a puller
that will remove his bearing.


Jon

Good advice, but might also be worth seeing if a bit of modest heating with
a hot air gun or gas torch helps

On 2011-02-17, Ned Simmons wrote:
On 17 Feb 2011 03:32:18 GMT, John Doe wrote:

The shaft diameter on the inner side of the bearing in question is
larger than on the outer side, the larger inner shaft diameter
prevents my bearing puller from grabbing the bearings inner race.

Can an ordinary ball bearing be pulled off of a shaft by the
bearing's outer race without damaging the bearing?

Depends on how hard you have to pull to get it off the shaft.

And -- which load direction the bearing is made for. If it is a
roller bearing (Timken and such), it will be pretty clear which
directions it will accept loads in. With ball bearings, you have to
look up the number to find out. Many are designed only for radial
loads, and pulling by the outer race would likely Brinnell the surfaces
(the balls would make dents, and it would fail fairly quickly). Some
have deep grooves (you can identify them by a loading notch -- a notch
in the inner race and one in the outer race, which have to line up to
let a ball be inserted before the cage is installed and crimped in
place. Those can take a respectable amount of axial load. There are
angular thrust bearings, which would do quite well in one direction, and
be easy to damage in the other direction.

I do remember many years ago when I was helping a friend change
the bearing on one of his rear axles (Timken style roller bearings), the
outer race was easy to remove. The cut loose the cage and remove the
rollers, and finally spend about an hour with a bench grinder thinning
down one side of the inner race. When it got thin enough, a pop with a
chisel and it split on that side, and slid off with no trouble. Getting
the replacement on was a lot easier -- and I didn't even know about the
trick of heating it first back then. :-)

So -- how much does the proper bearing for your shaft cost? If
you have to take it off anyway, putting on a new one sounds like a good
idea.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 17 Feb 2011 21:55:49 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-02-17, Ned Simmons wrote:

Depends on how hard you have to pull to get it off the shaft.

And -- which load direction the bearing is made for. If it is a
roller bearing (Timken and such), it will be pretty clear which
directions it will accept loads in. With ball bearings, you have to
look up the number to find out. Many are designed only for radial
loads, and pulling by the outer race would likely Brinnell the surfaces
(the balls would make dents, and it would fail fairly quickly). Some
have deep grooves (you can identify them by a loading notch -- a notch
in the inner race and one in the outer race, which have to line up to
let a ball be inserted before the cage is installed and crimped in
place. Those can take a respectable amount of axial load.

You've got that backwards, DoN. Deep groove bearings with loading
slots have relatively low thrust capacity compared to standard (e.g.,
the 62xx series) deep groove bearings. Loading slot bearings are used
to increase radial load capacity by maximizing the number of balls,
but the notches interrupt the wall of the groove right where it's
needed to carry thrust loads.

--
Ned Simmons

On 2011-02-18, Ned Simmons wrote:
On 17 Feb 2011 21:55:49 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-02-17, Ned Simmons wrote:

Depends on how hard you have to pull to get it off the shaft.

And -- which load direction the bearing is made for. If it is a
roller bearing (Timken and such), it will be pretty clear which
directions it will accept loads in. With ball bearings, you have to
look up the number to find out. Many are designed only for radial
loads, and pulling by the outer race would likely Brinnell the surfaces
(the balls would make dents, and it would fail fairly quickly). Some
have deep grooves (you can identify them by a loading notch -- a notch
in the inner race and one in the outer race, which have to line up to
let a ball be inserted before the cage is installed and crimped in
place. Those can take a respectable amount of axial load.

You've got that backwards, DoN. Deep groove bearings with loading
slots have relatively low thrust capacity compared to standard (e.g.,
the 62xx series) deep groove bearings. Loading slot bearings are used
to increase radial load capacity by maximizing the number of balls,
but the notches interrupt the wall of the groove right where it's
needed to carry thrust loads.

O.K. Thanks for the correction.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2/17/2011 12:18 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Autozone loans tools like that, usually free with deposit.

I'll have to look into that. The pullers I'm referring to are very
specialized and very expensive, and only work for one or two bearing
sizes. My mechanic friend showed me a couple, to see if I was interested
in trying to manufacture them. They don't look much like any garden
variety puller. But if Autozone does have this type for loan, that could
really save the day somewhere down the road!


Jon

On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 21:47:42 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

On 2/17/2011 12:18 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Autozone loans tools like that, usually free with deposit.

I'll have to look into that. The pullers I'm referring to are very
specialized and very expensive, and only work for one or two bearing
sizes. My mechanic friend showed me a couple, to see if I was interested
in trying to manufacture them. They don't look much like any garden
variety puller. But if Autozone does have this type for loan, that could
really save the day somewhere down the road!

The types of tools for loan varies all over the place at different
Autozones, but you can hope for the best.

--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson