I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.

Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.

Thanks,
Wayne D.

"Wayne" wrote in message
news
I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.

Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.

Thanks,
Wayne D.

Wayne-

An old mechanics trick is to slit an old race into a split ring (an abrasive
cut-off wheel does the necessary) and then use it as a driver. When the new
race is seated, the old one can easily be removed.

-Carl (an old mechanic)

In article ,
Wayne wrote:

manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Probably a diameter to keep it centered in the hole, and a diameter to
catch the outer rim while fitting the space available, with a flat step
in between.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts?

Should be fine, might want to add a steel fender washer.

Speaking as a heathen mechanic without 9 million special tools - I've
seated a lot of new bearing races with nothing more complex than a brass
drift, a hammer, and a brain. Only go a tiny bit at a time, and don't
let it get too far cocked - keep tapping the high side if you cock it,
and move around in a pattern when you can't see a high side. Not
suitable for a production environment (slow, skilled - the special tool
pays off) but works fine (IME) at home.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Wayne wrote:

I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.

Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.

Thanks,
Wayne D.

I'd use aluminum or brass.

Make a pair of top hat shaped pushers, with a hole to suit the
readyrod you have.

Make the skinny part of the "hat" to fit the ID of the narrow end of
the race, with a couple thou clearance, and the "brim" just a few thou
less than the OD of the race.

If you can put a heatgun to the steering head, it might make things a
bit easier, but the bearings should not be a really tight fit, more of a
snug one.

Freezing the races can shrink them a bit, if you wanted to muck about
with that, but all the ones I have done were done without heat/cold
added to the mix.

Bike?

Cheers
Trevor Jones

"
Speaking as a heathen mechanic without 9 million special tools - I've
seated a lot of new bearing races with nothing more complex than a brass
drift, a hammer, and a brain. Only go a tiny bit at a time, and don't
let it get too far cocked - keep tapping the high side if you cock it,
and move around in a pattern when you can't see a high side. Not
suitable for a production environment (slow, skilled - the special tool
pays off) but works fine (IME) at home.

agree with above - I've installed a reasonable number of pressed in bearings
and seals by just gently tapping them in place - never had any problem
(except when it was the wrong part, of course) - a special tool comes in
handy if you do a lot of them, but you don't need one. There are things for
which you do need a special tool, but this is not one of them.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Wayne wrote:
I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.

Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.

Thanks,
Wayne D.


The disks only need to be centered with a short stub, don't
be cheap with the thickness though. If you're using "aluminum",
you'll need to use steel washers, again thick.
As for the threaded rod, consider using 1/2" 20tpi for less
of a struggle, well lubricated.

Tom

Wayne wrote:
I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.

Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.

Thanks,
Wayne D.

I use the thrust ball bearing that came with my AC/PS pulley tool under the
nut . Takes less effort and gives smoother movement . I use discs that have
a step to keep them centered in the race . HTH ...
--

Snag aka OSG #1
'90 Ultra , "Strider"
The road goes on forever ...
none to one to reply

Wayne wrote:
I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.

Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.
I made these for the outer races of a set of Timken tapered
roller bearings in an Atlas lathe headstock. I used some 1/4"
steel plate I had around. Aluminum might work, but I can
imagine it bending if the bearing happens to be a tight fit.

I made them with a small lip so that it would center and drive
from the flat face of the bearing race. Don't apply force to
the tapered face, a small ding on the disc could damage the race.

I made one disc for pushing the bearing out, another one for
pushing the bearing back in. I used a wheel puller, which has a
much finer thread than 1/2-13, but I suppose that should work.

Jon

First off, a cone shaped driver will try to spread the race and prolly
crack it. Unless they're totally trashed, use the removed races for a
driver head, orienting the driving race so the thick end does the
driving. You can then knock it out with a drift from the other side. A
square cold chisel shank works well for driving, laid across the driving
race and struck with a brass hammer. It must lay flat, or the shock will
go up your wrist (pain...). Grease the bore and the race, and chill the
race if possible before driving. Be sure to drive the race square to the
bore, especially during the start.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Wayne wrote:
I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.

Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.

Thanks,
Wayne D.


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 15:08:53 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote:

In article ,
Wayne wrote:

manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Probably a diameter to keep it centered in the hole, and a diameter to
catch the outer rim while fitting the space available, with a flat step
in between.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts?

Should be fine, might want to add a steel fender washer.

Speaking as a heathen mechanic without 9 million special tools - I've
seated a lot of new bearing races with nothing more complex than a brass
drift, a hammer, and a brain. Only go a tiny bit at a time, and don't
let it get too far cocked - keep tapping the high side if you cock it,
and move around in a pattern when you can't see a high side. Not
suitable for a production environment (slow, skilled - the special tool
pays off) but works fine (IME) at home.

The hammer and drift method will work but has the potential for
damage. If you have the time and equipment it is best to make a tool
for installation. Take a look at this for more info.
http://www.ntnamerica.com/industrial_mountings.htm

Is this an Aluminum frame or steel? If it's Al, put the races in the
freezer for an hour or so, and heat the steering head with a heat gun
for a few minutes. The bearings will drop right in no pressing required.
Depending on the fit it might work with a steel frame as well. Depends
on which end of the tolerance the steering head bore is at, it's been a
50/50 experience for me.

Making a driver or puller is a pretty easy exercise if you have a
lathe. A top hat shape with a minor diameter that fits nicely to the
small diameter of the bearing and a major diameter a few thou smaller
than the OD of the bearing will do the job. As was mentioned by someone
else, don't make one that bears on the bearing surface.

With an eye to the future, take the time when the bearings are out to
file a couple of notches in the bottom of the bearing seat (in the
frame) so that removal next time will just take a long punch and a few
taps with a hammer to pop the race out.

Pete

--
Pete Snell
Department of Physics
Royal Military College

---------------------------------------------------------------------
All truths are easy to understand once they are discovered;
the point is to discover them.

Galileo Galilei (1564-1642)

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 08:19:49 -0600, Carl Byrns
wrote:


"Wayne" wrote in message
news
I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.

Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.

Thanks,
Wayne D.

Wayne-

An old mechanics trick is to slit an old race into a split ring (an
abrasive
cut-off wheel does the necessary) and then use it as a driver. When the
new
race is seated, the old one can easily be removed.

-Carl (an old mechanic)



Instant special tool, I like it, Thanks!

--
Wayne D.

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 09:08:53 -0600, Ecnerwal
wrote:

In article ,
Wayne wrote:

manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Probably a diameter to keep it centered in the hole, and a diameter to
catch the outer rim while fitting the space available, with a flat step
in between.

Probably what I'll try.


Is aluminum sufficient for the parts?

Should be fine, might want to add a steel fender washer.

Speaking as a heathen mechanic without 9 million special tools - I've
seated a lot of new bearing races with nothing more complex than a brass
drift, a hammer, and a brain. Only go a tiny bit at a time, and don't
let it get too far cocked - keep tapping the high side if you cock it,
and move around in a pattern when you can't see a high side. Not
suitable for a production environment (slow, skilled - the special tool
pays off) but works fine (IME) at home.


My mechanic doesn't have special tools either, but has more experience
than I. I'm not really good when a BFH is required on delicate parts.


--
Wayne D.

On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 08:32:23 -0600, tom wrote:

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 15:08:53 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote:

In article ,
Wayne wrote:

manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Probably a diameter to keep it centered in the hole, and a diameter to
catch the outer rim while fitting the space available, with a flat step
in between.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts?

Should be fine, might want to add a steel fender washer.

Speaking as a heathen mechanic without 9 million special tools - I've
seated a lot of new bearing races with nothing more complex than a brass
drift, a hammer, and a brain. Only go a tiny bit at a time, and don't
let it get too far cocked - keep tapping the high side if you cock it,
and move around in a pattern when you can't see a high side. Not
suitable for a production environment (slow, skilled - the special tool
pays off) but works fine (IME) at home.

The hammer and drift method will work but has the potential for
damage. If you have the time and equipment it is best to make a tool
for installation. Take a look at this for more info.
http://www.ntnamerica.com/industrial_mountings.htm

Thanks for the link, nice drawings.
I've got a puller for wheel bearings. I have to destroy the cage
first. Pull out the center sleeve between the bearings. Put the
center of the bearing and the balls back in. Then I can use the puller.


--
Wayne D.

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 09:21:16 -0600, Trevor Jones
wrote:

Wayne wrote:

I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.
Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.
Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.
Thanks,
Wayne D.

I'd use aluminum or brass.

Good, I got that.


Make a pair of top hat shaped pushers, with a hole to suit the
readyrod you have.

Make the skinny part of the "hat" to fit the ID of the narrow end of
the race, with a couple thou clearance, and the "brim" just a few thou
less than the OD of the race.

I think that is the way I will go.


If you can put a heatgun to the steering head, it might make things a
bit easier, but the bearings should not be a really tight fit, more of a
snug one.

Freezing the races can shrink them a bit, if you wanted to muck about
with that, but all the ones I have done were done without heat/cold
added to the mix.

Last (and first) time I tried that. I put the races in freezer and heated
up the steering head. I don't remember if they wouldn't go in, or if I
couldn't move them once started. I gave up at that point.


Bike?

Yep. Winter maintenance. Clean & grease all the bearings, cables...
For a while I considered doing the steering head every other year as
it always looked so good. Water got in it last year and this. Bearing
went bad this time. I haven't had to change many bearings when
taking care of them yearly.



Cheers
Trevor Jones




--
Wayne D.

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 11:26:09 -0600, Tom wrote:

Wayne wrote:
I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.
Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.
Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.
Thanks,
Wayne D.


The disks only need to be centered with a short stub, don't
be cheap with the thickness though. If you're using "aluminum",
you'll need to use steel washers, again thick.
As for the threaded rod, consider using 1/2" 20tpi for less
of a struggle, well lubricated.

I'm thinking I'd better go 3/4 fine.
I hadn't thought of greasing it up. Good suggestion.


Tom



--
Wayne D.

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 14:04:40 -0600, Snag wrote:

Wayne wrote:
I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.

Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.

Thanks,
Wayne D.

I use the thrust ball bearing that came with my AC/PS pulley tool under
the
nut . Takes less effort and gives smoother movement . I use discs that
have
a step to keep them centered in the race . HTH ...

I think I'll add the thrust bearing also. Anything to make it easier.
Thanks!

--
Wayne D.

On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 10:05:53 -0600, Pete Snell wrote:

Is this an Aluminum frame or steel? If it's Al, put the races in the
freezer for an hour or so, and heat the steering head with a heat gun
for a few minutes. The bearings will drop right in no pressing required.
Depending on the fit it might work with a steel frame as well. Depends
on which end of the tolerance the steering head bore is at, it's been a
50/50 experience for me.

Steel frame.
No luck last time doing the heat / cold thing. Those suckers are in there
really tight.

Making a driver or puller is a pretty easy exercise if you have a
lathe. A top hat shape with a minor diameter that fits nicely to the
small diameter of the bearing and a major diameter a few thou smaller
than the OD of the bearing will do the job. As was mentioned by someone
else, don't make one that bears on the bearing surface.

Got it.


With an eye to the future, take the time when the bearings are out to
file a couple of notches in the bottom of the bearing seat (in the
frame) so that removal next time will just take a long punch and a few
taps with a hammer to pop the race out.

Pete


Thanks to all for the suggestions.
After I started writing the post I felt kinda silly. But I learned a
lot of tricks I never thought of.

--
Wayne D.

On Sun, 30 Dec 2007 18:41:33 -0600, Jon Elson
wrote:

Wayne wrote:
I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.
Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.
Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.
I made these for the outer races of a set of Timken tapered roller
bearings in an Atlas lathe headstock. I used some 1/4" steel plate I
had around. Aluminum might work, but I can imagine it bending if the
bearing happens to be a tight fit.

I made them with a small lip so that it would center and drive from the
flat face of the bearing race. Don't apply force to the tapered face, a
small ding on the disc could damage the race.

I made one disc for pushing the bearing out, another one for pushing the
bearing back in. I used a wheel puller, which has a much finer thread
than 1/2-13, but I suppose that should work.


I think I have some 1/4 or 3/8 or something steel lying around somewhere.
How do you turn the OD? Put a hole in it and put it in an expanding
mandrel?


Jon

I think from one of the previous posts you are around St Louis. I might be
heading
down south of there this coming weekend. How the roads look? Snow on the
ground?

--
Wayne D.

Wayne wrote:
On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 10:05:53 -0600, Pete Snell wrote:

Is this an Aluminum frame or steel? If it's Al, put the races in
the freezer for an hour or so, and heat the steering head with a
heat gun for a few minutes. The bearings will drop right in no
pressing required. Depending on the fit it might work with a steel
frame as well. Depends on which end of the tolerance the steering
head bore is at, it's been a 50/50 experience for me.

Steel frame.
No luck last time doing the heat / cold thing. Those suckers are in
there really tight.

Making a driver or puller is a pretty easy exercise if you have a
lathe. A top hat shape with a minor diameter that fits nicely to the
small diameter of the bearing and a major diameter a few thou smaller
than the OD of the bearing will do the job. As was mentioned by
someone else, don't make one that bears on the bearing surface.

Got it.


With an eye to the future, take the time when the bearings are
out to file a couple of notches in the bottom of the bearing seat
(in the frame) so that removal next time will just take a long punch
and a few taps with a hammer to pop the race out.

Pete


Thanks to all for the suggestions.
After I started writing the post I felt kinda silly. But I learned a
lot of tricks I never thought of.

So did some of the rest of us ...I like the notch suggestion . Sometimes
on bike necks there is no way to get a puller behind the race until it's
moved out a tad .
Don't recall if you said you weld or not . If you do (no matter how nasty
the bead looks) run a bead around the ID of the outer race . When it cools ,
the race will almost fall out . Stuck lower inside races respond well to
slotting with a dremel type tool and a smart whack on a chisel in the cut .
--

Snag aka OSG #1
'90 Ultra , "Strider"
The road goes on forever ...
none to one to reply