First off, a cone shaped driver will try to spread the race and prolly
crack it. Unless they're totally trashed, use the removed races for a
driver head, orienting the driving race so the thick end does the
driving. You can then knock it out with a drift from the other side. A
square cold chisel shank works well for driving, laid across the driving
race and struck with a brass hammer. It must lay flat, or the shock will
go up your wrist (pain...). Grease the bore and the race, and chill the
race if possible before driving. Be sure to drive the race square to the
bore, especially during the start.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Wayne wrote:
I need to install two tapered bearing races in a steering head.
First off let me say that with a few exceptions I hate dealing
with pressed in parts. Last time I had to do this I failed
miserably and took it down to the dealer.
I could order the 'special tool' to install them ($).
But now since I have a lathe maybe I should just make them.
From the manual description both races get installed at
the same time. I'd need 2 round disks/cones with holes in the
center. A threaded rod (got some 1/2 13) would draw them
together and pull in the races. There is a small flat area
before the taper starts.

Do I make a disk which just catches the flat area or do
I make a cone that fits into the taper? The dwg in the
manual doesn't look like a cone, but it look like it
has 2 diameters.

Is aluminum sufficient for the parts? I don't have any
steel that size. I'd probably only have to do this a
few times.

Thanks,
Wayne D.


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Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
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