Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a problem as
the size is small.

--
*On the other hand, you have different fingers*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a problem as
the size is small.

Gorilla glue? Indoors or outdoors?

In article ,
newshound wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of
ply together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things
with the clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of
a problem as the size is small.

Gorilla glue? Indoors or outdoors?

Indoors.

There seems to be a vast range of things called Gorilla glue these days
including one which looks like ordinary PVA wood glue. Apart from the
price.

--
*I see you've set aside this special time to humiliate yourself in public

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman wrote:

There seems to be a vast range of things called Gorilla glue these days
including one which looks like ordinary PVA wood glue.

The one that looks a bit like dark honey is the PU expanding one, it
does fill gaps, but not high strength is it's all gap and no contact area.

On Saturday, 21 April 2018 14:09:59 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a problem as
the size is small.

Best wood glue where it stays dry is PVA. If it doesn't, epoxy is 100% waterproof, unlike most.
Re clamping, can you not screw them together?


NT

On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a problem as
the size is small.


PU glue foams and fills gaps.
If you don't have suitable clamps it's very easy to make cawls. Saw a
few pieces of wood so they are slightly bow-shaped on one side and long
enough to span the boards you want to glue. Once the boards are together
put them on a flat surface and the curved side of the cawls on the top.
Clamp the ends of the cawls on to the flat surface - this applies
pressure to the central area and then, as the cawls are tightened, the
pressure spreads to the outer edge. If you don't have a way of clamping
the cawls then a simple windlass will do the job.
http://sawdustmaking.com/Clamps/cawl.gif

On 21/04/18 14:19, newshound wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a
problem as
the size is small.

Gorilla glue? Indoors or outdoors?

Gorilla aka PU foam if large area and/or not too much strength required.

Otherwise epoxy.

On Saturday, 21 April 2018 15:48:12 UTC+1, wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a problem as
the size is small.


PU glue foams and fills gaps.
If you don't have suitable clamps it's very easy to make cawls. Saw a
few pieces of wood so they are slightly bow-shaped on one side and long
enough to span the boards you want to glue. Once the boards are together
put them on a flat surface and the curved side of the cawls on the top.
Clamp the ends of the cawls on to the flat surface - this applies
pressure to the central area and then, as the cawls are tightened, the
pressure spreads to the outer edge. If you don't have a way of clamping
the cawls then a simple windlass will do the job.
http://sawdustmaking.com/Clamps/cawl.gif

Foamed PU glue unfortunately has sod all strength. PVA makes a stronger joint. There's also casein.


NT

On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a problem as
the size is small.


If you need gap filling, then epoxy.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 21/04/2018 14:28, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
newshound wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of
ply together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things
with the clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of
a problem as the size is small.

Gorilla glue? Indoors or outdoors?

Indoors.

There seems to be a vast range of things called Gorilla glue these days
including one which looks like ordinary PVA wood glue. Apart from the
price.

I have some of the Gorilla PVA stuff, and it seems significantly less
runny than the usual. I've found this useful.

Cheers
--
Clive

On 21/04/18 18:51, John Rumm wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a
problem as
the size is small.


If you need gap filling, then epoxy.

As I keep repeating car body filler - loaded polyester resin - is FAR
easier for amateurs to get good results with.

Epoxy is for people who understand it, and that takes time.


--
"What do you think about Gay Marriage?"
"I don't."
"Don't what?"
"Think about Gay Marriage."

On Sat, 21 Apr 2018 10:02:57 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:

On Saturday, 21 April 2018 15:48:12 UTC+1, wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of
ply together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things
with the clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much
of a problem as the size is small.


PU glue foams and fills gaps.
If you don't have suitable clamps it's very easy to make cawls. Saw a
few pieces of wood so they are slightly bow-shaped on one side and long
enough to span the boards you want to glue. Once the boards are
together put them on a flat surface and the curved side of the cawls on
the top. Clamp the ends of the cawls on to the flat surface - this
applies pressure to the central area and then, as the cawls are
tightened, the pressure spreads to the outer edge. If you don't have a
way of clamping the cawls then a simple windlass will do the job.
http://sawdustmaking.com/Clamps/cawl.gif

Foamed PU glue unfortunately has sod all strength. PVA makes a stronger
joint. There's also casein.

I am a great fan of casein. A bit more fiddly, but good.
--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 21/04/2018 18:02, wrote:

Foamed PU glue unfortunately has sod all strength.

- until you try to get it off fingers and carpet.


--
Reentrant

On 21/04/2018 18:02, wrote:
On Saturday, 21 April 2018 15:48:12 UTC+1, wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a problem as
the size is small.


PU glue foams and fills gaps.
If you don't have suitable clamps it's very easy to make cawls. Saw a
few pieces of wood so they are slightly bow-shaped on one side and long
enough to span the boards you want to glue. Once the boards are together
put them on a flat surface and the curved side of the cawls on the top.
Clamp the ends of the cawls on to the flat surface - this applies
pressure to the central area and then, as the cawls are tightened, the
pressure spreads to the outer edge. If you don't have a way of clamping
the cawls then a simple windlass will do the job.
http://sawdustmaking.com/Clamps/cawl.gif

Foamed PU glue unfortunately has sod all strength. PVA makes a stronger joint. There's also casein.


NT

It seems to bond panels quite well, which is what the OP wanted to do.

Wrote in message:
On 21/04/2018 18:02, wrote:
On Saturday, 21 April 2018 15:48:12 UTC+1, wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a problem as
the size is small.


PU glue foams and fills gaps.
If you don't have suitable clamps it's very easy to make cawls. Saw a
few pieces of wood so they are slightly bow-shaped on one side and long
enough to span the boards you want to glue. Once the boards are together
put them on a flat surface and the curved side of the cawls on the top.
Clamp the ends of the cawls on to the flat surface - this applies
pressure to the central area and then, as the cawls are tightened, the
pressure spreads to the outer edge. If you don't have a way of clamping
the cawls then a simple windlass will do the job.
http://sawdustmaking.com/Clamps/cawl.gif

Foamed PU glue unfortunately has sod all strength. PVA makes a stronger joint. There's also casein.


NT

It seems to bond panels quite well, which is what the OP wanted to do.


:-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 21/04/2018 14:43, wrote:
On Saturday, 21 April 2018 14:09:59 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a problem as
the size is small.

Best wood glue where it stays dry is PVA. If it doesn't, epoxy is 100% waterproof, unlike most.
Re clamping, can you not screw them together?


NT

I have blue container of waterproof PVA, as opposed to the green
container which is PVA for indoor use only.

On 22/04/2018 23:10, wrote:
On 21/04/2018 18:02, wrote:
On Saturday, 21 April 2018 15:48:12 UTC+1, Â* wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits
of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with
the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a
problem as
the size is small.


PU glue foams and fills gaps.
If you don't have suitable clamps it's very easy to make cawls. Saw a
few pieces of wood so they are slightly bow-shaped on one side and long
enough to span the boards you want to glue. Once the boards are together
put them on a flat surface and the curved side of the cawls on the top.
Clamp the ends of the cawls on to the flat surface - this applies
pressure to the central area and then, as the cawls are tightened, the
pressure spreads to the outer edge. If you don't have a way of clamping
the cawls then a simple windlass will do the job.
http://sawdustmaking.com/Clamps/cawl.gif

Foamed PU glue unfortunately has sod all strength. PVA makes a
stronger joint. There's also casein.


NT

It seems to bond panels quite well, which is what the OP wanted to do.

Don't window fitters use it to fix UPVC frames where the brickwork is
poor ?.

On Wednesday, 25 April 2018 18:17:39 UTC+1, Andrew wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:43, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 21 April 2018 14:09:59 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a problem as
the size is small.

Best wood glue where it stays dry is PVA. If it doesn't, epoxy is 100% waterproof, unlike most.
Re clamping, can you not screw them together?


NT

I have blue container of waterproof PVA, as opposed to the green
container which is PVA for indoor use only.

I've used it outdoors too. But waterproofness it doesn't have a lot of.


NT

On 21/04/2018 14:36, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:

There seems to be a vast range of things called Gorilla glue these days
including one which looks like ordinary PVA wood glue.

The one that looks a bit like dark honey is the PU expanding one, it
does fill gaps, but not high strength is it's all gap and no contact area.

That's what I meant. It should be fine indoors and IME is reasonably
strong, although obviously it all depends on the stresses. I used it for
a semi permanent "gate" to keep dogs off the upper lawn, and it is fine
for that. Things like filling gaps in not very accurately cut angled lap
joints, because it was all made from sawn, treated timber, so "proper"
carpentry practice did not apply (also it was a quick and dirty job).

On 25/04/2018 20:40, newshound wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:36, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:

There seems to be a vast range of things called Gorilla glue these days
including one which looks like ordinary PVA wood glue.

The one that looks a bit like dark honey is the PU expanding one, it
does fill gaps, but not high strength is it's all gap and no contact
area.

That's what I meant. It should be fine indoors and IME is reasonably
strong, although obviously it all depends on the stresses. I used it for
a semi permanent "gate" to keep dogs off the upper lawn, and it is fine
for that. Things like filling gaps in not very accurately cut angled lap
joints, because it was all made from sawn, treated timber, so "proper"
carpentry practice did not apply (also it was a quick and dirty job).

I was going to say, for higher strength use epoxy (but I see John has
already said that!)

On 21/04/2018 19:09, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 21/04/18 18:51, John Rumm wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits of
ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a
problem as
the size is small.


If you need gap filling, then epoxy.

As I keep repeating car body filler - loaded polyester resin - is FAR
easier for amateurs to get good results with.

Epoxy is for people who understand it, and that takes time.


Agreed, but horses for courses, they both have their place. And epoxy
isn't all that difficult to learn. And I'd still say that for
non-critical or concealed stuff the foaming Gorilla is useful. Squirt
in, clamp, wait for it to expand and cure, cut or sand off excess.

On 25/04/2018 20:40, newshound wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:36, Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:

There seems to be a vast range of things called Gorilla glue these days
including one which looks like ordinary PVA wood glue.

The one that looks a bit like dark honey is the PU expanding one, it
does fill gaps, but not high strength is it's all gap and no contact
area.

That's what I meant. It should be fine indoors and IME is reasonably
strong, although obviously it all depends on the stresses. I used it for
a semi permanent "gate" to keep dogs off the upper lawn, and it is fine
for that. Things like filling gaps in not very accurately cut angled lap
joints, because it was all made from sawn, treated timber, so "proper"
carpentry practice did not apply (also it was a quick and dirty job).

I tend to find that the PU is very strong where you have a good close
fitting joint. The gap filling properties are ok, but offer no real
strength... whether that matter though will depend on the application.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 25/04/2018 18:19, Andrew wrote:
On 22/04/2018 23:10, wrote:
On 21/04/2018 18:02, wrote:
On Saturday, 21 April 2018 15:48:12 UTC+1, wrote:
On 21/04/2018 14:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Need some glue with decent gap filling properties to glue two bits
of ply
together (face to face) And not really possible to clamp things
with the
clamps I have to hand. Best one please - cost not too much of a
problem as
the size is small.


PU glue foams and fills gaps.
If you don't have suitable clamps it's very easy to make cawls. Saw a
few pieces of wood so they are slightly bow-shaped on one side and long
enough to span the boards you want to glue. Once the boards are
together
put them on a flat surface and the curved side of the cawls on the top.
Clamp the ends of the cawls on to the flat surface - this applies
pressure to the central area and then, as the cawls are tightened, the
pressure spreads to the outer edge. If you don't have a way of clamping
the cawls then a simple windlass will do the job.
http://sawdustmaking.com/Clamps/cawl.gif

Foamed PU glue unfortunately has sod all strength. PVA makes a
stronger joint. There's also casein.


NT

It seems to bond panels quite well, which is what the OP wanted to do.

Don't window fitters use it to fix UPVC frames where the brickwork is
poor ?.

They tend to use expanding PU foam rather than PU wood glue (that also
foams a little bit where not constrained - but nothing like a
traditional "expanding foam".

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

Andrew wrote:

Don't window fitters use it to fix UPVC frames
where the brickwork is poor?

They tend to use expanding PU foam rather than PU wood glue

But only the cowboys use foam *instead* of screw fixings

On 26/04/2018 06:13, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

Andrew wrote:

Don't window fitters use it to fix UPVC frames
where the brickwork is poor?

They tend to use expanding PU foam rather than PU wood glue

But only the cowboys use foam *instead* of screw fixings

Not convinced that is true necessarily. Depending on the position of the
window within the reveal, there may be nothing of merit into which you
can drive a screw. For example on many modern cavity wall designs, they
specify a "cavity closer" for use at the window reveals to avoid cold
bridging. Many of these are nothing more than a block of insulation
stuck onto a thin uPVC profile, that plugs into the gap between the
leaves of the wall.

Foam in those cases will make a good fixing. The frame will then usually
be further constrained the the PB/plaster on the inside, and render
around the reveal on the outside.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 26/04/18 08:16, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/04/2018 06:13, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

Andrew wrote:

Don't window fitters use it to fix UPVC frames
where the brickwork is poor?

They tend to use expanding PU foam rather than PU wood glue

But only the cowboys use foam *instead* of screw fixings

Not convinced that is true necessarily. Depending on the position of the
window within the reveal, there may be nothing of merit into which you
can drive a screw. For example on many modern cavity wall designs, they
specify a "cavity closer" for use at the window reveals to avoid cold
bridging. Many of these are nothing more than a block of insulation
stuck onto a thin uPVC profile, that plugs into the gap between the
leaves of the wall.

Foam in those cases will make a good fixing. The frame will then usually
be further constrained the the PB/plaster on the inside, and render
around the reveal on the outside.

Yep. Most new bu8ild windows are just foam, unless its a timber farmed
place, and even then...

Just as silicone alone is fine to hold down a bog pan


--
The New Left are the people they warned you about.

On 26/04/2018 08:16, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/04/2018 06:13, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

Andrew wrote:

Don't window fitters use it to fix UPVC frames
where the brickwork is poor?

They tend to use expanding PU foam rather than PU wood glue

But only the cowboys use foam *instead* of screw fixings

Not convinced that is true necessarily. Depending on the position of the
window within the reveal, there may be nothing of merit into which you
can drive a screw. For example on many modern cavity wall designs, they
specify a "cavity closer" for use at the window reveals to avoid cold
bridging. Many of these are nothing more than a block of insulation
stuck onto a thin uPVC profile, that plugs into the gap between the
leaves of the wall.

Foam in those cases will make a good fixing. The frame will then usually
be further constrained the the PB/plaster on the inside, and render
around the reveal on the outside.

Indeed.

My 1976 semi uses facing bricks that have a frog but are only finished
on two faces. This is fine if they are always frog-up but around the
window reveals one side has to be frog-down, so this means a massive
space under the brick.

In order to prevent the thick bitumen vertical dpc from pushing the
bricks out of plumb before the mortar sets, the brickies bashed off
the inner corner. Trying to get a conventional frame anchor into this
mangled brick with a huge hollow space where the inverted frog is,
is a nightmare for window fitter.

The cavity closer was just bits of the inner leaf block which also
has vertical holes right through (which makes chasing out electrical
channels internally a right royal pain). The concrete mix used to
make them semed to have a lot of straw in it so concrete screws just
don't seem to be able to cut a thread.

On 26/04/18 08:16, John Rumm wrote:
On 26/04/2018 06:13, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

Andrew wrote:

Don't window fitters use it to fix UPVC frames
where the brickwork is poor?

They tend to use expanding PU foam rather than PU wood glue

But only the cowboys use foam *instead* of screw fixings

Not convinced that is true necessarily. Depending on the position of the
window within the reveal, there may be nothing of merit into which you
can drive a screw. For example on many modern cavity wall designs, they
specify a "cavity closer" for use at the window reveals to avoid cold
bridging. Many of these are nothing more than a block of insulation
stuck onto a thin uPVC profile, that plugs into the gap between the
leaves of the wall.

Foam in those cases will make a good fixing. The frame will then usually
be further constrained the the PB/plaster on the inside, and render
around the reveal on the outside.


The old closure method which was to turn a brick across the cavity but
stop short of the other leaf by 1/2" with some DPC, was IMO a much
better method and was used in my house. We worry about trvial minor cold
bridging at the expense of structure too much.

Tim Watts wrote:

The old closure method which was to turn a brick across the cavity but
stop short of the other leaf by 1/2" with some DPC, was IMO a much
better method and was used in my house.

Mine uses L-shaped blocks from the inner leaf to form the reveal. Where
I replaced a door and adjacent window with a patio door I did use a
pvc+foam cavity closer, but the frame still screwed into the outer brick
leaf.

I can see (e.g. in Scotland where they tend to set the windows back
further into the reveal) there might be nowhere decent to fix the
windows into with screws, as the frame would tend to align with the cavity.