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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

Sorry to ask for some DIY advice, but has anyone any experience of using
either stick on or iron on veneer on a fairly large panel? Roughly 750 x
450 mm?

I've found a few places online that supply a paper backed ready glued real
teak veneer (a bit like sticky backed plastic) which sounds like it would
be easier to work with than traditional glueing methods (for me).

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

Its OK if you realise it will peel first at edges and corners, and will tend
to bubble if subjected to heat. The iron on stuff is thicker and does still
turn up at edges after some time or if subjected to damp or temperature
changes outside the norm.
On my fireplace some is beginning to crack as well as it hardens but this
is 20 years later. its already had plastic edging put over the pealing
edges.

Brian

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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
Sorry to ask for some DIY advice, but has anyone any experience of using
either stick on or iron on veneer on a fairly large panel? Roughly 750 x
450 mm?

I've found a few places online that supply a paper backed ready glued real
teak veneer (a bit like sticky backed plastic) which sounds like it would
be easier to work with than traditional glueing methods (for me).

--
*The colder the X-ray table, the more of your body is required on it *

Dave Plowman
London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.



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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

On Wednesday, 21 March 2018 15:48:01 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Sorry to ask for some DIY advice, but has anyone any experience of using
either stick on or iron on veneer on a fairly large panel? Roughly 750 x
450 mm?

I've found a few places online that supply a paper backed ready glued real
teak veneer (a bit like sticky backed plastic) which sounds like it would
be easier to work with than traditional glueing methods (for me).


I can't see how it could be easier than wet glue. No chance of bubbles when the glue is wet/thin & slides well. Different story with a tacky adhesive.


NT
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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:34:16 AM UTC, wrote:
On Wednesday, 21 March 2018 15:48:01 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Sorry to ask for some DIY advice, but has anyone any experience of using
either stick on or iron on veneer on a fairly large panel? Roughly 750 x
450 mm?

I've found a few places online that supply a paper backed ready glued real
teak veneer (a bit like sticky backed plastic) which sounds like it would
be easier to work with than traditional glueing methods (for me).


I can't see how it could be easier than wet glue. No chance of bubbles when the glue is wet/thin & slides well. Different story with a tacky adhesive.


NT


Wet glue would require clamping
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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

In article ,
fred wrote:
On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:34:16 AM UTC, wrote:
On Wednesday, 21 March 2018 15:48:01 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Sorry to ask for some DIY advice, but has anyone any experience of using
either stick on or iron on veneer on a fairly large panel? Roughly 750 x
450 mm?

I've found a few places online that supply a paper backed ready glued real
teak veneer (a bit like sticky backed plastic) which sounds like it would
be easier to work with than traditional glueing methods (for me).


I can't see how it could be easier than wet glue. No chance of bubbles when the glue is wet/thin & slides well. Different story with a tacky adhesive.


NT


Wet glue would require clamping


Thing is for a large area you'd need some method of clamping rather
outside the scope of DIY? Unless I'm missing something?

--
*It was recently discovered that research causes cancer in rats*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

Dave Plowman wrote:

Thing is for a large area you'd need some method of clamping rather
outside the scope of DIY? Unless I'm missing something?


What's wrong with contact adhesive, and using some thin dowels to allow
positioning it before pressing it down?

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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 11:06:39 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

Dave Plowman wrote:

Thing is for a large area you'd need some method of clamping rather
outside the scope of DIY? Unless I'm missing something?


What's wrong with contact adhesive, and using some thin dowels to allow
positioning it before pressing it down?




Thats how I have done my occasional bits of veneering
A thin even coat of glue on both sides with no lumps or ridges
Touch dry before assembly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeFzAPik_68

is a quick demo

however he does not address veneering the edges
if you need to do the edges you might consider doing them
first to get some practice in before tackling the big piece
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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 10:20:59 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
fred wrote:
On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:34:16 AM UTC, wrote:
On Wednesday, 21 March 2018 15:48:01 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Sorry to ask for some DIY advice, but has anyone any experience of using
either stick on or iron on veneer on a fairly large panel? Roughly 750 x
450 mm?

I've found a few places online that supply a paper backed ready glued real
teak veneer (a bit like sticky backed plastic) which sounds like it would
be easier to work with than traditional glueing methods (for me).

I can't see how it could be easier than wet glue. No chance of bubbles when the glue is wet/thin & slides well. Different story with a tacky adhesive.


NT


Wet glue would require clamping


Thing is for a large area you'd need some method of clamping rather
outside the scope of DIY? Unless I'm missing something?


Wet glue really only works for smallish areas you can clamp with a suitable load
spreader, anything 'big' and you really need a vacuum bag and pump.

Iron on veneer certainly works and many speaker manufacturers used to use it.

You can (could?) buy the heat sensitive glue in sheets to use your own veneers.

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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

On 22/03/18 11:14, The Other Mike wrote:
On Thu, 22 Mar 2018 10:20:59 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
fred wrote:
On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:34:16 AM UTC, wrote:
On Wednesday, 21 March 2018 15:48:01 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Sorry to ask for some DIY advice, but has anyone any experience of using
either stick on or iron on veneer on a fairly large panel? Roughly 750 x
450 mm?

I've found a few places online that supply a paper backed ready glued real
teak veneer (a bit like sticky backed plastic) which sounds like it would
be easier to work with than traditional glueing methods (for me).

I can't see how it could be easier than wet glue. No chance of bubbles when the glue is wet/thin & slides well. Different story with a tacky adhesive.


NT


Wet glue would require clamping


Thing is for a large area you'd need some method of clamping rather
outside the scope of DIY? Unless I'm missing something?


Wet glue really only works for smallish areas you can clamp with a suitable load
spreader, anything 'big' and you really need a vacuum bag and pump.


Wrong. We used to veneer 10 8x4 slabs with PVA in a huge sandwich using
a 2 ton press.

All that matters is maintaining contact while things dry.

And a few more bits of wood on top and some weight does that nicely in
amateurs contexts

PVA will gap fill. Just not so much.




Iron on veneer certainly works and many speaker manufacturers used to use it.

You can (could?) buy the heat sensitive glue in sheets to use your own veneers.



--
Karl Marx said religion is the opium of the people.
But Marxism is the crack cocaine.
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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

On Thursday, 22 March 2018 10:22:32 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
fred wrote:
On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:34:16 AM UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 21 March 2018 15:48:01 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


Sorry to ask for some DIY advice, but has anyone any experience of using
either stick on or iron on veneer on a fairly large panel? Roughly 750 x
450 mm?

I've found a few places online that supply a paper backed ready glued real
teak veneer (a bit like sticky backed plastic) which sounds like it would
be easier to work with than traditional glueing methods (for me).

I can't see how it could be easier than wet glue. No chance of bubbles when the glue is wet/thin & slides well. Different story with a tacky adhesive.


NT


Wet glue would require clamping


Thing is for a large area you'd need some method of clamping rather
outside the scope of DIY? Unless I'm missing something?


Of course. Do you not have enough stuff you could pile on top? Put down polythene then chipboard and on that you can put just about anything. Doesn't get you high clamp pressure, but it only needs to stay in touch to work.


NT


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Default Stick on real wood veneer.

In article ,
wrote:
Thing is for a large area you'd need some method of clamping rather
outside the scope of DIY? Unless I'm missing something?


Of course. Do you not have enough stuff you could pile on top? Put down
polythene then chipboard and on that you can put just about anything.
Doesn't get you high clamp pressure, but it only needs to stay in touch
to work.


I've been thinking about that - but my experience of using wood glue is
the higher the clamping pressure, the better, within reason. And how much
weight would you need on a largeish board to equal that provided by a
vacuum? (Just thinking about how much grunt a small area vacuum servo
produces on car brakes)

Other thing I've come across is iron on glue - paper backed. You iron that
on, let it dry, remove the paper, then iron on the veneer. Says suitable
for up to 1mm veneer.

--
*Am I ambivalent? Well, yes and no.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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