Well it sort of worked

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:CHcleaner.jpg

And for anyone who cannot see it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the
crud that it has collected that it has split open.


--
Adam

On 11/03/2018 09:25, ARW wrote:
Well it sort of worked

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:CHcleaner.jpg

And for anyone who cannot see it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the
crud that it has collected that it has split open.



I'm somewhat perplexed by that. The only one I have ever opened up has a
magnetic stick enclosed in plastic, and the central heating water swirls
round the outside of the magnet. Just like that one in the photo, except
that the plastic protecting the magnet on mine had not split open.

GB wrote:

ARW wrote:

it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the
crud that it has collected that it has split open.

I'm somewhat perplexed by that. The only one I have ever opened up has a
magnetic stick enclosed in plastic, and the central heating water swirls
round the outside of the magnet.
Pin-prick hole in the plastic, letting water into the magnet which has
rusted and expanded, splitting the rest of the plastic open?

On 11/03/2018 10:11, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Sun, 11 Mar 2018 10:04:13 +0000, GB
wrote:

On 11/03/2018 09:25, ARW wrote:
Well it sort of worked

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:CHcleaner.jpg

And for anyone who cannot see it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the
crud that it has collected that it has split open.



I'm somewhat perplexed by that. The only one I have ever opened up has a
magnetic stick enclosed in plastic, and the central heating water swirls
round the outside of the magnet. Just like that one in the photo, except
that the plastic protecting the magnet on mine had not split open.

Also perplexed. It suggests that whatever was attracted to the magnet
has subsequently swelled. I can only think that initially it collected
a lot of iron swarf, filings or whatever, that subsequently oxidised,
with the resulting increase in volume.



TBH I have not had a lot to do with them.

I was actually at the job sorting out the outside lights that were
tripping and found this

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:CHcleaner2.jpg

in the garage and the plumber forwarded me the other photo.

I just thought it would make a change from Brexit posts.

--
Adam

Which was my point. They are not really very good, and of course they rely
on the crud being able to be electrostatically charged or magnetised to
work. Stuff which has neigher quality will just go straight on.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"ARW" wrote in message
...
Well it sort of worked

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:CHcleaner.jpg

And for anyone who cannot see it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the crud
that it has collected that it has split open.


--
Adam

No the ones that work best use electromagnets and high voltages. But as has
been said before this is only part of the story.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"GB" wrote in message
news
On 11/03/2018 09:25, ARW wrote:
Well it sort of worked

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:CHcleaner.jpg

And for anyone who cannot see it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the crud
that it has collected that it has split open.



I'm somewhat perplexed by that. The only one I have ever opened up has a
magnetic stick enclosed in plastic, and the central heating water swirls
round the outside of the magnet. Just like that one in the photo, except
that the plastic protecting the magnet on mine had not split open.

The argument might run that magnetic and the like is the most damaging
material?

Can't see the harm in fitting one, especially in older systems. So long
as they're checked/cleaned once in while.

On 11/03/2018 10:58, Brian Gaff wrote:
Which was my point. They are not really very good, and of course they rely
on the crud being able to be electrostatically charged or magnetised to
work. Stuff which has neigher quality will just go straight on.
Brian



--
Cheers, Rob

Andy Burns wrote:
GB wrote:

ARW wrote:

it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the
crud that it has collected that it has split open.

I'm somewhat perplexed by that. The only one I have ever opened up has a
magnetic stick enclosed in plastic, and the central heating water swirls
round the outside of the magnet.
Pin-prick hole in the plastic, letting water into the magnet which has
rusted and expanded, splitting the rest of the plastic open?
+1 I think nail, head, has been hit Andy

On 11/03/2018 11:26, Bob Minchin wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
GB wrote:

ARW wrote:

it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the
crud that it has collected that it has split open.

I'm somewhat perplexed by that. The only one I have ever opened up has a
magnetic stick enclosed in plastic, and the central heating water swirls
round the outside of the magnet.
Pin-prick hole in the plastic, letting water into the magnet which has
rusted and expanded, splitting the rest of the plastic open?
+1Â* I think nail, head, has been hit Andy

It still managed to collect a fair bit of ****e:-)

--
Adam

On 11/03/2018 11:13, RJH wrote:

Can't see the harm in fitting one, especially in older systems. So long
as they're checked/cleaned once in while.

All systems will become old and start shedding rust particles which
could block the heat exchange, especially on a modern system.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 11/03/2018 10:58, Brian Gaff wrote:
Which was my point. They are not really very good, and of course they rely
on the crud being able to be electrostatically charged or magnetised to
work. Stuff which has neigher quality will just go straight on.

They can catch a surprising amount of (magnetic) material which could
otherwise start blocking narrow channels.

The advantage is that they can be easily serviced to remove the crud.

http://www.admac.myzen.co.uk/magnaclean/




mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 11/03/2018 11:13, RJH wrote:
The argument might run that magnetic and the like is the most damaging
material?

Can't see the harm in fitting one, especially in older systems. So long
as they're checked/cleaned once in while.

They don't just collect magnetic crud, they are also vortex separators
and will collect other crud if its heavy enough and the flow is slow enough.

alan_m wrote:
On 11/03/2018 11:13, RJH wrote:

Can't see the harm in fitting one, especially in older systems. So long
as they're checked/cleaned once in while.

All systems will become old and start shedding rust particles which

Surely only those which have iron in them.

could block the heat exchange, especially on a modern system.


--
Chris Green
·

On 11/03/2018 21:20, Chris Green wrote:

Surely only those which have iron in them.

And what are your radiators made from?

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

alan_m wrote in news:fglsfsFb7iaU1
@mid.individual.net:

On 11/03/2018 21:20, Chris Green wrote:

Surely only those which have iron in them.

And what are your radiators made from?


+1

alan_m wrote:
On 11/03/2018 21:20, Chris Green wrote:

Surely only those which have iron in them.

And what are your radiators made from?

Depends, we had skirting board radiators that were just copper pipe
and aluminium fins in one house I lived in.

--
Chris Green
·

In article ,
Chris Green wrote:
alan_m wrote:
On 11/03/2018 21:20, Chris Green wrote:

Surely only those which have iron in them.

And what are your radiators made from?

Depends, we had skirting board radiators that were just copper pipe
and aluminium fins in one house I lived in.

I fitted those in an extension I built in 1972.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On Sunday, 11 March 2018 10:58:18 UTC, Brian Gaff wrote:
Which was my point. They are not really very good, and of course they rely
on the crud being able to be electrostatically charged or magnetised to
work. Stuff which has neigher quality will just go straight on.
Brian

The crud is iron oxide from radiators. It is magnetic.
If you have an aluminium alloy boiler heat exchanger, it's vital to keep it out.

On 11/03/2018 09:25, ARW wrote:
Well it sort of worked

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:CHcleaner.jpg

And for anyone who cannot see it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the
crud that it has collected that it has split open.

Slightly OT, but I thought it was possible use a Magnaclean (or similar)
to put inhibitor into a system?

I can't find any youtube videos of anyone doing this.

On 12/03/2018 19:00, Fredxx wrote:
On 11/03/2018 09:25, ARW wrote:
Well it sort of worked

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:CHcleaner.jpg

And for anyone who cannot see it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the
crud that it has collected that it has split open.

Slightly OT, but I thought it was possible use a Magnaclean (or similar)
to put inhibitor into a system?

I can't find any youtube videos of anyone doing this.


Referring to the generic magnetic filters rather than any one
manufacturer....
Some models have a drain valve allowing you to empty the container which
then you can refill with any CH chemical. Other models don't have this
drain valve but you can syphon the water from the filter container. The
latter models tend to be shorter in length for fitting in smaller spaces.
The CH chemicals will then get circulated around the system when you
re-assemble the filter, release the isolating valves and run the CH
system as normal.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 12/03/2018 20:05, alan_m wrote:
On 12/03/2018 19:00, Fredxx wrote:
On 11/03/2018 09:25, ARW wrote:
Well it sort of worked

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:CHcleaner.jpg

And for anyone who cannot see it's a magnetic cleaner so full of the
crud that it has collected that it has split open.

Slightly OT, but I thought it was possible use a Magnaclean (or
similar) to put inhibitor into a system?

I can't find any youtube videos of anyone doing this.


Referring to the generic magnetic filters rather than any one
manufacturer....
Some models have a drain valve allowing you to empty the container which
then you can refill with any CH chemical. Other models don't have this
drain valve but you can syphon the water from the filter container. The
latter models tend to be shorter in length for fitting in smaller spaces.
The CH chemicals will then get circulated around the system when you
re-assemble the filter, release the isolating valves and run the CH
system as normal.

I understand that is the principle, but surprised it's little advertised
for the DIYer.

You can also get inhibitor concentrate that makes dosing that much easier.