I've just installed my first LED driver and bulb in place of a halogen
downlight, I did this as a test. The LED functions 100% without
flicker. Only another 24 to go!

However, the LED driver didn't come with any wires attached, so I
re-used the heat-resistant cables off the old halogen bulb's
transformer. (I used bog-standard blue and neutral cables to connect
the 240V input to the brown junction box.)

Whenever I've had to purchase a new halogen transformer in the past,
it's always come wired up already. So what is the correct name of this
heat-resistant cable so that I can search for it?

Thanks.

By the way, the LED driver is this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I instead chose the following, it comes with wires, but costs
around £2.50 mo
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BMBKH... 17J1AN&psc=0

Multiplied by 24, that £2.50 saving per bulb is significant.

MM

MM wrote:
I've just installed my first LED driver and bulb in place of a halogen
downlight, I did this as a test. The LED functions 100% without
flicker. Only another 24 to go!

However, the LED driver didn't come with any wires attached, so I
re-used the heat-resistant cables off the old halogen bulb's
transformer. (I used bog-standard blue and neutral cables to connect
the 240V input to the brown junction box.)

Whenever I've had to purchase a new halogen transformer in the past,
it's always come wired up already. So what is the correct name of this
heat-resistant cable so that I can search for it?

Thanks.

By the way, the LED driver is this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I instead chose the following, it comes with wires, but costs
around £2.50 mo
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BMBKH... 17J1AN&psc=0

Multiplied by 24, that £2.50 saving per bulb is significant.

MM


Um, do you NEED heat resistant wire?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Friday, 19 January 2018 15:38:55 UTC, Tim+ wrote:
MM wrote:

I've just installed my first LED driver and bulb in place of a halogen
downlight, I did this as a test. The LED functions 100% without
flicker. Only another 24 to go!

However, the LED driver didn't come with any wires attached, so I
re-used the heat-resistant cables off the old halogen bulb's
transformer. (I used bog-standard blue and neutral cables to connect
the 240V input to the brown junction box.)

Whenever I've had to purchase a new halogen transformer in the past,
it's always come wired up already. So what is the correct name of this
heat-resistant cable so that I can search for it?

Thanks.

By the way, the LED driver is this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I instead chose the following, it comes with wires, but costs
around £2.50 mo
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BMBKH... 17J1AN&psc=0

Multiplied by 24, that £2.50 saving per bulb is significant.

MM


Um, do you NEED heat resistant wire?

Tim

no


NT

I'd very much doubt it, the heat from filament/halogen is very much higher
unless the led is being run close to its limits.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Tim+" wrote in message
...
MM wrote:
I've just installed my first LED driver and bulb in place of a halogen
downlight, I did this as a test. The LED functions 100% without
flicker. Only another 24 to go!

However, the LED driver didn't come with any wires attached, so I
re-used the heat-resistant cables off the old halogen bulb's
transformer. (I used bog-standard blue and neutral cables to connect
the 240V input to the brown junction box.)

Whenever I've had to purchase a new halogen transformer in the past,
it's always come wired up already. So what is the correct name of this
heat-resistant cable so that I can search for it?

Thanks.

By the way, the LED driver is this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I instead chose the following, it comes with wires, but costs
around £2.50 mo
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BMBKH... 17J1AN&psc=0

Multiplied by 24, that £2.50 saving per bulb is significant.

MM


Um, do you NEED heat resistant wire?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 19 Jan 2018 15:38:51 GMT, Tim+ wrote:

MM wrote:
I've just installed my first LED driver and bulb in place of a halogen
downlight, I did this as a test. The LED functions 100% without
flicker. Only another 24 to go!

However, the LED driver didn't come with any wires attached, so I
re-used the heat-resistant cables off the old halogen bulb's
transformer. (I used bog-standard blue and neutral cables to connect
the 240V input to the brown junction box.)

Whenever I've had to purchase a new halogen transformer in the past,
it's always come wired up already. So what is the correct name of this
heat-resistant cable so that I can search for it?

Thanks.

By the way, the LED driver is this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I instead chose the following, it comes with wires, but costs
around £2.50 mo
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BMBKH... 17J1AN&psc=0

Multiplied by 24, that £2.50 saving per bulb is significant.

MM


Um, do you NEED heat resistant wire?

I assumed I did, with the wires close to the bulb. But perhaps the 5W
LED doesn't run as hot as the 50W halogen?

MM

On Friday, 19 January 2018 17:05:12 UTC, MM wrote:
On 19 Jan 2018 15:38:51 GMT, Tim+ wrote:

MM wrote:
I've just installed my first LED driver and bulb in place of a halogen
downlight, I did this as a test. The LED functions 100% without
flicker. Only another 24 to go!

However, the LED driver didn't come with any wires attached, so I
re-used the heat-resistant cables off the old halogen bulb's
transformer. (I used bog-standard blue and neutral cables to connect
the 240V input to the brown junction box.)

Whenever I've had to purchase a new halogen transformer in the past,
it's always come wired up already. So what is the correct name of this
heat-resistant cable so that I can search for it?

Thanks.

By the way, the LED driver is this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I instead chose the following, it comes with wires, but costs
around £2.50 mo
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BMBKH... 17J1AN&psc=0

Multiplied by 24, that £2.50 saving per bulb is significant.

MM


Um, do you NEED heat resistant wire?

I assumed I did, with the wires close to the bulb. But perhaps the 5W
LED doesn't run as hot as the 50W halogen?

MM

halogen filaments run around 2800C. They're connected direct to the endcaps.. LEDs don't run much over 100C, and are indirectly connected. At 5W you can use almost anything for cable.


NT

In article ,
MM wrote:
I assumed I did, with the wires close to the bulb. But perhaps the 5W
LED doesn't run as hot as the 50W halogen?

Most of the energy a tungsten consumes goes as heat. LEDs use less energy
for the same light output.

The very most heat a 5w LEd could produce is 5w. The very most a 50w
tungsten can produce is 50w.

--
*Why is "abbreviated" such a long word?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I'm not sure you would need it with leds.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"MM" wrote in message
...
I've just installed my first LED driver and bulb in place of a halogen
downlight, I did this as a test. The LED functions 100% without
flicker. Only another 24 to go!

However, the LED driver didn't come with any wires attached, so I
re-used the heat-resistant cables off the old halogen bulb's
transformer. (I used bog-standard blue and neutral cables to connect
the 240V input to the brown junction box.)

Whenever I've had to purchase a new halogen transformer in the past,
it's always come wired up already. So what is the correct name of this
heat-resistant cable so that I can search for it?

Thanks.

By the way, the LED driver is this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I instead chose the following, it comes with wires, but costs
around £2.50 mo
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BMBKH... 17J1AN&psc=0

Multiplied by 24, that £2.50 saving per bulb is significant.

MM

On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 16:49:19 -0000, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

I'm not sure you would need it with leds.
Brian

Just bog-standard blue or brown cables ripped from a PC power cable,
then?

MM

On Friday, 19 January 2018 17:06:17 UTC, MM wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 16:49:19 -0000, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

I'm not sure you would need it with leds.
Brian


Provided it is low voltage you could put yuor finger close by to see if it gets hpt, very unlikley too with LEDs.

Just bog-standard blue or brown cables ripped from a PC power cable,
then?

Heat restistant sleeving is sometimes called silicone sleeving we use it on our soldering irons in case the students rest the iron on the cable.

Yes almost any colours should do but best to stick to something like blue or brown or red black .

For future refernce this is the sort of sleeving that is heat resistant.

https://www.rapidonline.com/catalogu...one%20sleeving



MM

On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 09:28:59 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:

On Friday, 19 January 2018 17:06:17 UTC, MM wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 16:49:19 -0000, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

I'm not sure you would need it with leds.
Brian


Provided it is low voltage you could put yuor finger close by to see if it gets hpt, very unlikley too with LEDs.

Just bog-standard blue or brown cables ripped from a PC power cable,
then?

Heat restistant sleeving is sometimes called silicone sleeving we use it on our soldering irons in case the students rest the iron on the cable.

Yes almost any colours should do but best to stick to something like blue or brown or red black .

For future refernce this is the sort of sleeving that is heat resistant.

https://www.rapidonline.com/catalogu...one%20sleeving

Thanks. Actually, I got the step ladder out again and put my hand just
under the new LED bulb. Heat barely detectable. Then I went to one of
the existing halogen bulbs, phew! What a difference.

MM

On 19/01/2018 17:28, whisky-dave wrote:
On Friday, 19 January 2018 17:06:17 UTC, MM wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 16:49:19 -0000, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

I'm not sure you would need it with leds.
Brian


Provided it is low voltage you could put yuor finger close by to see if it gets hpt, very unlikley too with LEDs.

Just bog-standard blue or brown cables ripped from a PC power cable,
then?

Heat restistant sleeving is sometimes called silicone sleeving we use it on our soldering irons in case the students rest the iron on the cable.

Yes almost any colours should do but best to stick to something like blue or brown or red black .

For future refernce this is the sort of sleeving that is heat resistant.

https://www.rapidonline.com/catalogu...one%20sleeving


Not much use for a soldering iron that is at 300C

On Friday, 19 January 2018 22:55:14 UTC, dennis@home wrote:
On 19/01/2018 17:28, whisky-dave wrote:
On Friday, 19 January 2018 17:06:17 UTC, MM wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 16:49:19 -0000, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

I'm not sure you would need it with leds.
Brian


Provided it is low voltage you could put yuor finger close by to see if it gets hpt, very unlikley too with LEDs.

Just bog-standard blue or brown cables ripped from a PC power cable,
then?

Heat restistant sleeving is sometimes called silicone sleeving we use it on our soldering irons in case the students rest the iron on the cable.

Yes almost any colours should do but best to stick to something like blue or brown or red black .

For future refernce this is the sort of sleeving that is heat resistant.

https://www.rapidonline.com/catalogu...one%20sleeving


Not much use for a soldering iron that is at 300C

probabbly not but then again I wouldn;t use this sleeving for that , I buy irons with silicone sleeving alreadys on.

https://www.rapidonline.com/antex-s5...e-plug-85-1153

saves me hassle.

On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 09:28:59 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:

On Friday, 19 January 2018 17:06:17 UTC, MM wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 16:49:19 -0000, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

I'm not sure you would need it with leds.
Brian


Provided it is low voltage you could put yuor finger close by to see if it gets hpt, very unlikley too with LEDs.

Just bog-standard blue or brown cables ripped from a PC power cable,
then?

Heat restistant sleeving is sometimes called silicone sleeving we use it on our soldering irons in case the students rest the iron on the cable.

Yes almost any colours should do but best to stick to something like blue or brown or red black .

For future refernce this is the sort of sleeving that is heat resistant.

https://www.rapidonline.com/catalogu...one%20sleeving

Supplementary question:

Is there any use for the old halogen 12V transformers? For example, as
a power supply for Maplin electronic kits/modules?

MM

MM wrote:


snip

Supplementary question:

Is there any use for the old halogen 12V transformers? For example, as
a power supply for Maplin electronic kits/modules?

MM

No. They are horrible things. Designed as cheaply as possible.
Damaged by the heat they produce. Output not smoothed at all and
approximately regulated so that a purely resistive load gets about the
right amount of RMS voltage with an arbitrary waveform. And not
adequately insulated to handle safely without an enclosure of some kind.

--

Roger Hayter

On Saturday, 20 January 2018 12:31:37 UTC, MM wrote:

Supplementary question:

Is there any use for the old halogen 12V transformers? For example, as
a power supply for Maplin electronic kits/modules?

MM

the output is high frequency ac. I suppose you could rectify & smooth it


NT

In article ,
MM wrote:
Is there any use for the old halogen 12V transformers? For example, as
a power supply for Maplin electronic kits/modules?

If they are true transformers as early LV lighting used, they can be used
for any purpose that transformer is suitable for. Could very likely form
the basis of a regulated 12v PS.

Later units are SMPS and would likely need additional components to
provide a clean DC supply.

--
*Pride is what we have. Vanity is what others have.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Saturday, 20 January 2018 12:31:37 UTC, MM wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 09:28:59 -0800 (PST), whisky-dave
wrote:

On Friday, 19 January 2018 17:06:17 UTC, MM wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 16:49:19 -0000, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

I'm not sure you would need it with leds.
Brian


Provided it is low voltage you could put yuor finger close by to see if it gets hpt, very unlikley too with LEDs.

Just bog-standard blue or brown cables ripped from a PC power cable,
then?

Heat restistant sleeving is sometimes called silicone sleeving we use it on our soldering irons in case the students rest the iron on the cable.

Yes almost any colours should do but best to stick to something like blue or brown or red black .

For future refernce this is the sort of sleeving that is heat resistant.

https://www.rapidonline.com/catalogu...one%20sleeving

Supplementary question:

Is there any use for the old halogen 12V transformers? For example, as
a power supply for Maplin electronic kits/modules?

I'm not really familar with those sorts of transformers I;d think you could rectify them and smooth them maybe even regualte them by buying aditional parts
but I wouldnt persoanlly bother, when you can buy ready made PSUs quite easily and cheaply.

MM

In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
Heat restistant sleeving is sometimes called silicone sleeving we use
it on our soldering irons in case the students rest the iron on the
cable.


Most would simply buy irons that come with silicone insulated cable
already. But that might mean buying a decent make.

--
*Gaffer tape - The Force, light and dark sides - holds the universe together*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 19/01/2018 15:01, MM wrote:
I've just installed my first LED driver and bulb in place of a halogen
downlight, I did this as a test. The LED functions 100% without
flicker. Only another 24 to go!

However, the LED driver didn't come with any wires attached, so I
re-used the heat-resistant cables off the old halogen bulb's
transformer. (I used bog-standard blue and neutral cables to connect
the 240V input to the brown junction box.)

Whenever I've had to purchase a new halogen transformer in the past,
it's always come wired up already. So what is the correct name of this
heat-resistant cable so that I can search for it?

Thanks.

By the way, the LED driver is this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I instead chose the following, it comes with wires, but costs
around £2.50 mo
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BMBKH... 17J1AN&psc=0

Multiplied by 24, that £2.50 saving per bulb is significant.

MM

So just cut the old transformer cables close to the transformer and
reuse them.


Personally I would just do away with the transformer and driver and wire
GU10 fly leads straight into the junction box and use GU10 LEDs.

--

Adam