I have just fitted a four bulb bar that came with four bulbs.
Sadly the light generated would be more than adequate - for a dog kennel.

I had a stock of "50w" equivalents. I removed one of original bulbs and
replaced it but the remaining 3 wouldn't budge. the solution appears to be
some kind of sucker.

There are several advertised but my bulbs do not have flat surfaces. They
have a bulge in centre. If anyone has any experience of these gadgets I
would dearly like to hear of one that works.

TIA


--
Mageia 5.1 for x86_64, Kernel:4.4.82-desktop-1.mga5
KDE version 4.14.5 on an AMD Phenom II X4 Black edition.

Pinnerite wrote:
I have just fitted a four bulb bar that came with four bulbs.
Sadly the light generated would be more than adequate - for a dog
kennel.

I had a stock of "50w" equivalents. I removed one of original bulbs
and replaced it but the remaining 3 wouldn't budge. the solution
appears to be some kind of sucker.

There are several advertised but my bulbs do not have flat surfaces.
They have a bulge in centre. If anyone has any experience of these
gadgets I would dearly like to hear of one that works.

TIA

Yes, you need the sucker or you will struggle. I've been there.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...bulbs&_sacat=0

Pinnerite formulated on Tuesday :
There are several advertised but my bulbs do not have flat surfaces. They
have a bulge in centre. If anyone has any experience of these gadgets I
would dearly like to hear of one that works.

A large blob of bluetack sometimes works.

On 02/01/2018 15:38, Pinnerite wrote:
grip the bulb

There are several advertised but my bulbs do not have flat surfaces. They
have a bulge in centre. If anyone has any experience of these gadgets I
would dearly like to hear of one that works.


Wearing disposable rubber gloves can help to grip the bulb with some
bulbs/fittings.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 02/01/2018 15:38, Pinnerite wrote:
I have just fitted a four bulb bar that came with four bulbs.
Sadly the light generated would be more than adequate - for a dog kennel.

I had a stock of "50w" equivalents. I removed one of original bulbs and
replaced it but the remaining 3 wouldn't budge. the solution appears to be
some kind of sucker.

There are several advertised but my bulbs do not have flat surfaces. They
have a bulge in centre. If anyone has any experience of these gadgets I
would dearly like to hear of one that works.

TIA



They're a right pain - particularly if the bulb is recessed, preventing
you from getting a hold on it!

Try a softish rubber (eraser). Press it against the bulb with both
thumbs, turning it anti-clockwise at the same time.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Pinnerite formulated on Tuesday :
There are several advertised but my bulbs do not have flat surfaces.
They have a bulge in centre. If anyone has any experience of these
gadgets I would dearly like to hear of one that works.

A large blob of bluetack sometimes works.

I thought about suggesting that.

Roger Mills wrote:
On 02/01/2018 15:38, Pinnerite wrote:
I have just fitted a four bulb bar that came with four bulbs.
Sadly the light generated would be more than adequate - for a dog
kennel. I had a stock of "50w" equivalents. I removed one of original
bulbs
and replaced it but the remaining 3 wouldn't budge. the solution
appears to be some kind of sucker.

There are several advertised but my bulbs do not have flat surfaces.
They have a bulge in centre. If anyone has any experience of these
gadgets I would dearly like to hear of one that works.

TIA



They're a right pain - particularly if the bulb is recessed,
preventing you from getting a hold on it!

Try a softish rubber (eraser). Press it against the bulb with both
thumbs, turning it anti-clockwise at the same time.

I once ****ed up the lights in the kitchen as I could not find the sucker.
Just buy the sucker.

On Tue, 2 Jan 2018 22:27:12 -0000, "Mr Pounder Esquire"
wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
On 02/01/2018 15:38, Pinnerite wrote:
I have just fitted a four bulb bar that came with four bulbs.
Sadly the light generated would be more than adequate - for a dog
kennel. I had a stock of "50w" equivalents. I removed one of original
bulbs
and replaced it but the remaining 3 wouldn't budge. the solution
appears to be some kind of sucker.

There are several advertised but my bulbs do not have flat surfaces.
They have a bulge in centre. If anyone has any experience of these
gadgets I would dearly like to hear of one that works.

TIA



They're a right pain - particularly if the bulb is recessed,
preventing you from getting a hold on it!

Try a softish rubber (eraser). Press it against the bulb with both
thumbs, turning it anti-clockwise at the same time.

I once ****ed up the lights in the kitchen as I could not find the sucker.
Just buy the sucker.


Personally I find removing the old bulbs easy. It's getting the new
ones in that is difficult!

--
insert witty sig here

"Mark" wrote in message
...
Personally I find removing the old bulbs easy. It's getting the new
ones in that is difficult!

A few GU10 bulbs have raised lines at 12 and 6 o'clock on the front surface
of the glass of the bulb. These allow you to get just enough of a purchase
on bulb when pressing with your thumbs that you can turn the bulb when
removing / re-fitting it.

The main problem I have with the GU10 fitting in the bathroom ceiling is
refitting the outer cosmetic metal ring (part of the fitting) which locks
the bulb in place so it doesn't dangle on the end of the wires - the GU10
socket on those lights is free, and not fixed to the back of the fitting, so
there's a loose push-fit and then a locking ring. One of the fittings
doesn't even have that, just a circlip which has tabs which should fit into
recesses in the fitting, but modern LED GU10s stick out slightly too far for
the wiggly tabs on the circlip to be able engage with the notches on the
ring. Grrr.

On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 17:05:53 -0000, "NY" wrote:

"Mark" wrote in message
.. .
Personally I find removing the old bulbs easy. It's getting the new
ones in that is difficult!

A few GU10 bulbs have raised lines at 12 and 6 o'clock on the front surface
of the glass of the bulb. These allow you to get just enough of a purchase
on bulb when pressing with your thumbs that you can turn the bulb when
removing / re-fitting it.

It's not a matter of getting purchase for me but getting the pins
properly aligned when I can't see them in the (recessed) fitting.

The main problem I have with the GU10 fitting in the bathroom ceiling is
refitting the outer cosmetic metal ring (part of the fitting) which locks
the bulb in place so it doesn't dangle on the end of the wires - the GU10
socket on those lights is free, and not fixed to the back of the fitting, so
there's a loose push-fit and then a locking ring. One of the fittings
doesn't even have that, just a circlip which has tabs which should fit into
recesses in the fitting, but modern LED GU10s stick out slightly too far for
the wiggly tabs on the circlip to be able engage with the notches on the
ring. Grrr.

Your fittings sound quite different to mine.

--
insert witty sig here

"Mark" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 17:05:53 -0000, "NY" wrote:

"Mark" wrote in message
. ..
Personally I find removing the old bulbs easy. It's getting the new
ones in that is difficult!

A few GU10 bulbs have raised lines at 12 and 6 o'clock on the front
surface
of the glass of the bulb. These allow you to get just enough of a purchase
on bulb when pressing with your thumbs that you can turn the bulb when
removing / re-fitting it.

It's not a matter of getting purchase for me but getting the pins
properly aligned when I can't see them in the (recessed) fitting.

They can be a problem if the socket within the fitting isn't aligned with
the neck of the fitting so when you centralise the neck of the bulb in the
fitting, the pins of the socket are off-centre. And of course you also have
to rotate until the pins in the bulb line up with those in the socket.

The main problem I have with the GU10 fitting in the bathroom ceiling is
refitting the outer cosmetic metal ring (part of the fitting) which locks
the bulb in place so it doesn't dangle on the end of the wires - the GU10
socket on those lights is free, and not fixed to the back of the fitting,
so
there's a loose push-fit and then a locking ring. One of the fittings
doesn't even have that, just a circlip which has tabs which should fit
into
recesses in the fitting, but modern LED GU10s stick out slightly too far
for
the wiggly tabs on the circlip to be able engage with the notches on the
ring. Grrr.

Your fittings sound quite different to mine.

There are lots. The best are like the ones we have in the kitchen which have
a fitting that only covers the neck of the bulb, leaving the flared sides
exposed so there's a lot to grab of when twisting and wiggling to insert and
line up the pins.

The ones we have in the bathroom ceiling have loose sockets which are
attached only by the two wires. The socket drops out of the fitting when
there's no bulb so you can hold it in one hand and the bulb in the other.
But then you need to lock the bulb in place once it's connected, and that's
where the dreaded circlip comes in - and it won't engage with the retaining
notches in the fitting if the rim of the bulb is too thick front-to-back:
tungsten bulbs are fine but the LED ones are thicker. I tend to rely only on
the friction of the circlip against the smooth side of the ring if I can't
engage the notches, which is fine for a few months and then I'll go into the
bathroom and see one of the bulbs hanging loose on the wires and have to
search the floor for the circlip.

One of our bathroom fittings (a newer one to replace one of the original
ones which had broken) has a bayonet-fitting locking ring which is much
better.


The worst GU10 fittings are those which have a captive socket but the bulb
fits flush with the front of the fitting so you can't turn it easily because
only its front and not its sides are exposed. Fortunately we don't have any
like that.

NY wrote:
"Mark" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 17:05:53 -0000, "NY" wrote:

"Mark" wrote in message
...
Personally I find removing the old bulbs easy. It's getting the
new ones in that is difficult!

A few GU10 bulbs have raised lines at 12 and 6 o'clock on the front
surface
of the glass of the bulb. These allow you to get just enough of a
purchase on bulb when pressing with your thumbs that you can turn
the bulb when removing / re-fitting it.

It's not a matter of getting purchase for me but getting the pins
properly aligned when I can't see them in the (recessed) fitting.

They can be a problem if the socket within the fitting isn't aligned
with the neck of the fitting so when you centralise the neck of the
bulb in the fitting, the pins of the socket are off-centre. And of
course you also have to rotate until the pins in the bulb line up
with those in the socket.
The main problem I have with the GU10 fitting in the bathroom
ceiling is refitting the outer cosmetic metal ring (part of the
fitting) which locks the bulb in place so it doesn't dangle on the
end of the wires - the GU10 socket on those lights is free, and not
fixed to the back of the fitting, so
there's a loose push-fit and then a locking ring. One of the
fittings doesn't even have that, just a circlip which has tabs
which should fit into
recesses in the fitting, but modern LED GU10s stick out slightly
too far for
the wiggly tabs on the circlip to be able engage with the notches
on the ring. Grrr.

Your fittings sound quite different to mine.

There are lots. The best are like the ones we have in the kitchen
which have a fitting that only covers the neck of the bulb, leaving
the flared sides exposed so there's a lot to grab of when twisting
and wiggling to insert and line up the pins.

The ones we have in the bathroom ceiling have loose sockets which are
attached only by the two wires. The socket drops out of the fitting
when there's no bulb so you can hold it in one hand and the bulb in
the other. But then you need to lock the bulb in place once it's
connected, and that's where the dreaded circlip comes in - and it
won't engage with the retaining notches in the fitting if the rim of
the bulb is too thick front-to-back: tungsten bulbs are fine but the
LED ones are thicker. I tend to rely only on the friction of the
circlip against the smooth side of the ring if I can't engage the
notches, which is fine for a few months and then I'll go into the
bathroom and see one of the bulbs hanging loose on the wires and have
to search the floor for the circlip.
One of our bathroom fittings (a newer one to replace one of the
original ones which had broken) has a bayonet-fitting locking ring
which is much better.


The worst GU10 fittings are those which have a captive socket but the
bulb fits flush with the front of the fitting so you can't turn it
easily because only its front and not its sides are exposed.
Fortunately we don't have any like that.

I still have them - bloody things. I have the sucker and I dread changing
them.

On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 18:48:41 -0000, "NY" wrote:

"Mark" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 17:05:53 -0000, "NY" wrote:

"Mark" wrote in message
...
Personally I find removing the old bulbs easy. It's getting the new
ones in that is difficult!

A few GU10 bulbs have raised lines at 12 and 6 o'clock on the front
surface
of the glass of the bulb. These allow you to get just enough of a purchase
on bulb when pressing with your thumbs that you can turn the bulb when
removing / re-fitting it.

It's not a matter of getting purchase for me but getting the pins
properly aligned when I can't see them in the (recessed) fitting.

They can be a problem if the socket within the fitting isn't aligned with
the neck of the fitting so when you centralise the neck of the bulb in the
fitting, the pins of the socket are off-centre. And of course you also have
to rotate until the pins in the bulb line up with those in the socket.

The main problem I have with the GU10 fitting in the bathroom ceiling is
refitting the outer cosmetic metal ring (part of the fitting) which locks
the bulb in place so it doesn't dangle on the end of the wires - the GU10
socket on those lights is free, and not fixed to the back of the fitting,
so
there's a loose push-fit and then a locking ring. One of the fittings
doesn't even have that, just a circlip which has tabs which should fit
into
recesses in the fitting, but modern LED GU10s stick out slightly too far
for
the wiggly tabs on the circlip to be able engage with the notches on the
ring. Grrr.

Your fittings sound quite different to mine.

There are lots. The best are like the ones we have in the kitchen which have
a fitting that only covers the neck of the bulb, leaving the flared sides
exposed so there's a lot to grab of when twisting and wiggling to insert and
line up the pins.

The ones we have in the bathroom ceiling have loose sockets which are
attached only by the two wires. The socket drops out of the fitting when
there's no bulb so you can hold it in one hand and the bulb in the other.
But then you need to lock the bulb in place once it's connected, and that's
where the dreaded circlip comes in - and it won't engage with the retaining
notches in the fitting if the rim of the bulb is too thick front-to-back:
tungsten bulbs are fine but the LED ones are thicker. I tend to rely only on
the friction of the circlip against the smooth side of the ring if I can't
engage the notches, which is fine for a few months and then I'll go into the
bathroom and see one of the bulbs hanging loose on the wires and have to
search the floor for the circlip.

One of our bathroom fittings (a newer one to replace one of the original
ones which had broken) has a bayonet-fitting locking ring which is much
better.


The worst GU10 fittings are those which have a captive socket but the bulb
fits flush with the front of the fitting so you can't turn it easily because
only its front and not its sides are exposed. Fortunately we don't have any
like that.

That sounds like all of mine :-(

--
insert witty sig here

On 04-Jan-18 12:10 PM, Mark wrote:
On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 18:48:41 -0000, "NY" wrote:

"Mark" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 17:05:53 -0000, "NY" wrote:

"Mark" wrote in message
...
Personally I find removing the old bulbs easy. It's getting the new
ones in that is difficult!

A few GU10 bulbs have raised lines at 12 and 6 o'clock on the front
surface
of the glass of the bulb. These allow you to get just enough of a purchase
on bulb when pressing with your thumbs that you can turn the bulb when
removing / re-fitting it.

It's not a matter of getting purchase for me but getting the pins
properly aligned when I can't see them in the (recessed) fitting.

They can be a problem if the socket within the fitting isn't aligned with
the neck of the fitting so when you centralise the neck of the bulb in the
fitting, the pins of the socket are off-centre. And of course you also have
to rotate until the pins in the bulb line up with those in the socket.

The main problem I have with the GU10 fitting in the bathroom ceiling is
refitting the outer cosmetic metal ring (part of the fitting) which locks
the bulb in place so it doesn't dangle on the end of the wires - the GU10
socket on those lights is free, and not fixed to the back of the fitting,
so
there's a loose push-fit and then a locking ring. One of the fittings
doesn't even have that, just a circlip which has tabs which should fit
into
recesses in the fitting, but modern LED GU10s stick out slightly too far
for
the wiggly tabs on the circlip to be able engage with the notches on the
ring. Grrr.

Your fittings sound quite different to mine.

There are lots. The best are like the ones we have in the kitchen which have
a fitting that only covers the neck of the bulb, leaving the flared sides
exposed so there's a lot to grab of when twisting and wiggling to insert and
line up the pins.

The ones we have in the bathroom ceiling have loose sockets which are
attached only by the two wires. The socket drops out of the fitting when
there's no bulb so you can hold it in one hand and the bulb in the other.
But then you need to lock the bulb in place once it's connected, and that's
where the dreaded circlip comes in - and it won't engage with the retaining
notches in the fitting if the rim of the bulb is too thick front-to-back:
tungsten bulbs are fine but the LED ones are thicker. I tend to rely only on
the friction of the circlip against the smooth side of the ring if I can't
engage the notches, which is fine for a few months and then I'll go into the
bathroom and see one of the bulbs hanging loose on the wires and have to
search the floor for the circlip.

One of our bathroom fittings (a newer one to replace one of the original
ones which had broken) has a bayonet-fitting locking ring which is much
better.


The worst GU10 fittings are those which have a captive socket but the bulb
fits flush with the front of the fitting so you can't turn it easily because
only its front and not its sides are exposed. Fortunately we don't have any
like that.

That sounds like all of mine :-(

hot glue with nut or similar stuck in. if hot glue is put on thinly it
usually peels of fairly easily or put some boiling water on it.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 11:41:25 +0000, john west
wrote:

--snip--

The worst GU10 fittings are those which have a captive socket but the bulb
fits flush with the front of the fitting so you can't turn it easily because
only its front and not its sides are exposed. Fortunately we don't have any
like that.

That sounds like all of mine :-(

hot glue with nut or similar stuck in. if hot glue is put on thinly it
usually peels of fairly easily or put some boiling water on it.

Actually it's replacing them I find difficulty with. Locating the
pins and then turning the bulb to locate often takes a while.
--
insert witty sig here

In article ,
Mark wrote:
Actually it's replacing them I find difficulty with. Locating the
pins and then turning the bulb to locate often takes a while.

Yup. Spawn of satan. Low volt ones are so much easier. And with tungsten,
last longer too, and are more efficient. Basically the mains tungsten was
for cheapskates. ;-)

--
*If I throw a stick, will you leave?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 1:11:31 PM UTC, Mark wrote:
On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 11:41:25 +0000, john west
wrote:

--snip--

The worst GU10 fittings are those which have a captive socket but the bulb
fits flush with the front of the fitting so you can't turn it easily because
only its front and not its sides are exposed. Fortunately we don't have any
like that.

That sounds like all of mine :-(

hot glue with nut or similar stuck in. if hot glue is put on thinly it
usually peels of fairly easily or put some boiling water on it.

Actually it's replacing them I find difficulty with. Locating the
pins and then turning the bulb to locate often takes a while.

I changed one just recently and that was the biggest problem I had.

On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 10:08:15 -0800 (PST), Halmyre wrote:

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 1:11:31 PM UTC, Mark wrote:
On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 11:41:25 +0000, john west
wrote:

--snip--

The worst GU10 fittings are those which have a captive socket but the bulb
fits flush with the front of the fitting so you can't turn it easily because
only its front and not its sides are exposed. Fortunately we don't have any
like that.

That sounds like all of mine :-(

hot glue with nut or similar stuck in. if hot glue is put on thinly it
usually peels of fairly easily or put some boiling water on it.

Actually it's replacing them I find difficulty with. Locating the
pins and then turning the bulb to locate often takes a while.

I changed one just recently and that was the biggest problem I had.

Whilst I like the positive connection, the lack of 'lead-in' (BC has this)
is a damned nuisance - takes ages if the fitting is recessed, especially.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 10:04:54 +0000, PeterC wrote:

On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 10:08:15 -0800 (PST), Halmyre wrote:

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 1:11:31 PM UTC, Mark wrote:
On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 11:41:25 +0000, john west
wrote:

--snip--

The worst GU10 fittings are those which have a captive socket but
the bulb fits flush with the front of the fitting so you can't turn
it easily because only its front and not its sides are exposed.
Fortunately we don't have any like that.

That sounds like all of mine :-(

hot glue with nut or similar stuck in. if hot glue is put on thinly it
usually peels of fairly easily or put some boiling water on it.

Actually it's replacing them I find difficulty with. Locating the
pins and then turning the bulb to locate often takes a while.

I changed one just recently and that was the biggest problem I had.

Whilst I like the positive connection, the lack of 'lead-in' (BC has
this)
is a damned nuisance - takes ages if the fitting is recessed,
especially.

Having verified that GU10 is identical to the bi-pin connector used by
plug in fluorescent starter switches (the only GU10 lamps -12v 35W- we
have (in our downstairs shower room), have never had to be replaced in
the past 6 or 7 years since they were fitted), I disagree with your
"tarring with the same brush" comparison of the BC lamp socket.

If my experience of swapping out starter switches in the one and only
fluorescent light fitting that is cursed by such a crude starting method
is any guide, the humble BC lamp (even when blind-sided by a lamp shade!)
is a joy to swap out by comparison.

--
Johnny B Good

Johnny B Good wrote:

On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 10:04:54 +0000, PeterC wrote:

On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 10:08:15 -0800 (PST), Halmyre wrote:

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 1:11:31 PM UTC, Mark wrote:
On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 11:41:25 +0000, john west
wrote:

--snip--

The worst GU10 fittings are those which have a captive socket but
the bulb fits flush with the front of the fitting so you can't turn
it easily because only its front and not its sides are exposed.
Fortunately we don't have any like that.

That sounds like all of mine :-(

hot glue with nut or similar stuck in. if hot glue is put on thinly it
usually peels of fairly easily or put some boiling water on it.

Actually it's replacing them I find difficulty with. Locating the
pins and then turning the bulb to locate often takes a while.

I changed one just recently and that was the biggest problem I had.

Whilst I like the positive connection, the lack of 'lead-in' (BC has
this)
is a damned nuisance - takes ages if the fitting is recessed,
especially.

Having verified that GU10 is identical to the bi-pin connector used by
plug in fluorescent starter switches (the only GU10 lamps -12v 35W- we
have (in our downstairs shower room), have never had to be replaced in
the past 6 or 7 years since they were fitted), I disagree with your
"tarring with the same brush" comparison of the BC lamp socket.

If my experience of swapping out starter switches in the one and only
fluorescent light fitting that is cursed by such a crude starting method
is any guide, the humble BC lamp (even when blind-sided by a lamp shade!)
is a joy to swap out by comparison.

Complicated sentence you are replying to, but I think that is what
PeterC was saying; BC at least has a slot to orient the connector
before you push it in and turn it.

--

Roger Hayter

On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 19:19:51 +0000, Roger Hayter wrote:

Johnny B Good wrote:

On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 10:04:54 +0000, PeterC wrote:

On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 10:08:15 -0800 (PST), Halmyre wrote:

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 1:11:31 PM UTC, Mark wrote:
On Fri, 9 Feb 2018 11:41:25 +0000, john west
wrote:

--snip--

The worst GU10 fittings are those which have a captive socket
but the bulb fits flush with the front of the fitting so you
can't turn it easily because only its front and not its sides
are exposed. Fortunately we don't have any like that.

That sounds like all of mine :-(

hot glue with nut or similar stuck in. if hot glue is put on thinly
it usually peels of fairly easily or put some boiling water on it.

Actually it's replacing them I find difficulty with. Locating the
pins and then turning the bulb to locate often takes a while.

I changed one just recently and that was the biggest problem I had.

Whilst I like the positive connection, the lack of 'lead-in' (BC has
this)
is a damned nuisance - takes ages if the fitting is recessed,
especially.

Having verified that GU10 is identical to the bi-pin connector used by
plug in fluorescent starter switches (the only GU10 lamps -12v 35W- we
have (in our downstairs shower room), have never had to be replaced in
the past 6 or 7 years since they were fitted), I disagree with your
"tarring with the same brush" comparison of the BC lamp socket.

If my experience of swapping out starter switches in the one and only
fluorescent light fitting that is cursed by such a crude starting
method is any guide, the humble BC lamp (even when blind-sided by a
lamp shade!)
is a joy to swap out by comparison.

Complicated sentence you are replying to, but I think that is what
PeterC was saying; BC at least has a slot to orient the connector
before you push it in and turn it.

After re-reading it, I think you're very probably right but the way he
expressed it was open to interpretation. It seemed to me he was saying
that what the BC has is "the lack of 'lead-in'". This is usually the
result of trying to condense two statements into as few words as possible
without proof reading to check whether any possibly confusing ambiguities
needed to be addressed by better phrasing.

--
Johnny B Good

On Sat, 10 Feb 2018 19:19:51 +0000, Roger Hayter wrote:

If my experience of swapping out starter switches in the one and only
fluorescent light fitting that is cursed by such a crude starting method
is any guide, the humble BC lamp (even when blind-sided by a lamp shade!)
is a joy to swap out by comparison.

Complicated sentence you are replying to, but I think that is what
PeterC was saying; BC at least has a slot to orient the connector
before you push it in and turn it.

Correct! And a socket for initial location. The GU10 is just agains a flat
srface and the pins really don't want to go in.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway