Hi All,

I have a double up and over garage door (Wessex I think) which has 2 springs 1 each side of the door and rollers at the top of the door which run in channels as the door opens.

The door seems ok except it seems to have dropped a few mm such that is just catches the floor when it closes.

Does anyone know how to adjust these? There are nuts on the spring hooks which allow the tension to be adjusted but I can't see anything else that would enable the door to be lifted.

Anyone any ideas?

thanks

Lee.

In article ,
wrote:
Hi All,

I have a double up and over garage door (Wessex I think) which has 2
springs 1 each side of the door and rollers at the top of the door which
run in channels as the door opens.

The door seems ok except it seems to have dropped a few mm such that is
just catches the floor when it closes.

Does anyone know how to adjust these? There are nuts on the spring hooks
which allow the tension to be adjusted but I can't see anything else that
would enable the door to be lifted.

Loking at my door which sounds very similar, the only height adjustment is
where the mechanism is fixed to the frame. Are there slots for the fixing
bolts? If so, has everything slipped?

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

wrote:
Hi All,

I have a double up and over garage door (Wessex I think) which has 2 springs 1 each side of the door and rollers at the top of the door which run in channels as the door opens.

The door seems ok except it seems to have dropped a few mm such that is just catches the floor when it closes.

Does anyone know how to adjust these? There are nuts on the spring hooks which allow the tension to be adjusted but I can't see anything else that would enable the door to be lifted.

Anyone any ideas?

thanks

Lee.


Maybe a worn bush where a linkage is mounted?

On Fri, 15 Dec 2017 05:05:24 -0800 (PST)
wrote:

Hi All,

I have a double up and over garage door (Wessex I think) which has 2
springs 1 each side of the door and rollers at the top of the door
which run in channels as the door opens.

The door seems ok except it seems to have dropped a few mm such that
is just catches the floor when it closes.

Does anyone know how to adjust these? There are nuts on the spring
hooks which allow the tension to be adjusted but I can't see anything
else that would enable the door to be lifted.

Are there packing pieces where the rails attach to the roof at the
front?

On Friday, 15 December 2017 15:41:30 UTC, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Hi All,

I have a double up and over garage door (Wessex I think) which has 2 springs 1 each side of the door and rollers at the top of the door which run in channels as the door opens.

The door seems ok except it seems to have dropped a few mm such that is just catches the floor when it closes.

Does anyone know how to adjust these? There are nuts on the spring hooks which allow the tension to be adjusted but I can't see anything else that would enable the door to be lifted.

Anyone any ideas?

thanks

Lee.


Maybe a worn bush where a linkage is mounted?

Just checked and no slots on my bracket unfortunately. A worn joint may be a possibility (it is circa 20 years old) but mine is essentially an angle bracket bolted to the frame and then the arm connected to the door is bolted to that with a spacer washer between the 2 to stop them rubbing together I guess. Seems fairly basic but the bracket and arm are pretty thick and solid

On Friday, 15 December 2017 15:58:05 UTC, Rob Morley wrote:
On Fri, 15 Dec 2017 05:05:24 -0800 (PST)

Hi All,

I have a double up and over garage door (Wessex I think) which has 2
springs 1 each side of the door and rollers at the top of the door
which run in channels as the door opens.

The door seems ok except it seems to have dropped a few mm such that
is just catches the floor when it closes.

Does anyone know how to adjust these? There are nuts on the spring
hooks which allow the tension to be adjusted but I can't see anything
else that would enable the door to be lifted.

Are there packing pieces where the rails attach to the roof at the
front?

Unfortunately no adjustment there either. The top rails are attached to the top of the frame rather than to the roof and no adjustment on the brackets either. This door must have been a bit tricky to fit in the first place!!

replying to leenowell, Iggy wrote:
If the out-of-level condition is new, then it's likely a symptom of the spring
wearing out and both springs should be replaced...they don't wear out equally.
Otherwise yes, IF you have something like 25mm of thread on that rearmost
hook, then you can definitely pull the spring tighter after loosening the
front nut a lot and tightening the rear nut until the door closes evenly. Let
me/us know if that works or not, that's the easiest and safest option of a few
other options.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1256884-.htm

On Friday, 15 December 2017 18:44:06 UTC, Iggy wrote:
replying to leenowell, Iggy wrote:
If the out-of-level condition is new, then it's likely a symptom of the spring
wearing out and both springs should be replaced...they don't wear out equally.
Otherwise yes, IF you have something like 25mm of thread on that rearmost
hook, then you can definitely pull the spring tighter after loosening the
front nut a lot and tightening the rear nut until the door closes evenly. Let
me/us know if that works or not, that's the easiest and safest option of a few
other options.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1256884-.htm

Hi Iggy

Not sure what you mean by the "rear most nut". The springs are connected to a bracket at the bottom via a hook with a thread. The nut on the thread is below the bracket and can be tightened/ loosened to change the tension of the springs. I had assumed this would only increase/ decrease the tension to balance the door and make it easier to lift as opposed to change the height/ level. Does it do this too?

Also, by level do your mean the horizontal level of the door when it is partly open?

thanks again

Lee.

replying to leenowell, Iggy wrote:
Yes, it will essentially increase the tension (pull the spring back) on that
side and thereby shorten the currently long side and equalize it to the other
side, so the door can close evenly again. Also meaning, if you don't have the
or enough threads on the low side, you can loosen or let-out the high side to
equalize it down to the low side.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1256884-.htm

In article ,
Iggy m wrote:
replying to leenowell, Iggy wrote: Yes, it will essentially increase the
tension (pull the spring back) on that side and thereby shorten the
currently long side and equalize it to the other side, so the door can
close evenly again. Also meaning, if you don't have the or enough
threads on the low side, you can loosen or let-out the high side to
equalize it down to the low side.

My brother has a similar problem with his double door. Probably 40 years
old. He's repaired it a couple of times - new cables etc - but this time
it has defeated him. Two firms have been to look at it and give a price to
fix - then don't turn up.

--
*Why were the Indians here first? They had reservations.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

replying to Dave Plowman (News), Iggy wrote:
Yeah, he probably screwed it up. Likely, the cables just slipped from loose
tying at the Lacing Brackets/Adjustment Clips. If you don't pull those tight,
then the door will and you can end up with too much travel or an un-level
close. Except for springs, maybe, he shouldn't have to mess with anything for
50-years and just lube the wheels every 10-years.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1256884-.htm

In article ,
Iggy m wrote:
replying to Dave Plowman (News), Iggy wrote: Yeah, he probably screwed
it up. Likely, the cables just slipped from loose tying at the Lacing
Brackets/Adjustment Clips. If you don't pull those tight, then the door
will and you can end up with too much travel or an un-level close.
Except for springs, maybe, he shouldn't have to mess with anything for
50-years and just lube the wheels every 10-years.

I've not looked at it myself as it's some 500 miles from here. But given
he's overhauled it before, I'm not sure why it isn't possible this time.
And why those firms have looked at it, quoted a (highish) price, but
failed to do the work as agreed.

--
*Before they invented drawing boards, what did they go back to?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Thanks....

So to lift the door when it is in the closed position I increase the tension of the spring or decrease it? Mine seems to need lifting both sides.

I saw some discussion around doors with cables but just in case it alters the answer, mine doesn't have any cables. Just arms bolted to the frame and the spring as a counter balance on the arms.

Wrote in message:
Thanks....

So to lift the door when it is in the closed position I increase the tension of the spring or decrease it? Mine seems to need lifting both sides.

I saw some discussion around doors with cables but just in case it alters the answer, mine doesn't have any cables. Just arms bolted to the frame and the spring as a counter balance on the arms.


Welcome to Iggy world...
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

replying to Dave Plowman (News), Iggy wrote:
Introduce him to YouTube to save himself time, money and annoyance to return
the door to operation. Maybe he's gone senile and tried with the door down
rather than up.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1256884-.htm

replying to leenowell, Iggy wrote:
It does alter the answer, so completely ignore everything everyone's said.
Sorry, I didn't realize it was a 1-panel door. I haven't seen nor touched one
of those in decades. But, I recall from that era that the door would just be
slid slightly up or down after the side brackets were loosened. I don't know
if that's the case for your door and I can't imagine why it wouldn't be, but
that's all I have on those types of doors for this kind of adjustment. If you
can provide pictures of the door's hardware or attachments, that may be more
useful. Sorry again.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1256884-.htm

In article ,
Iggy m wrote:
Introduce him to YouTube to save himself time, money and annoyance to
return the door to operation. Maybe he's gone senile and tried with the
door down rather than up.

Thanks for your pearl of wisdom.

Now explain why it has apparently defeated two companies also. Or would
they be going senile too?

--
*A bartender is just a pharmacist with a limited inventory.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Iggy m wrote:
Introduce him to YouTube to save himself time, money and annoyance to
return the door to operation. Maybe he's gone senile and tried with the
door down rather than up.

Thanks for your pearl of wisdom.

Now explain why it has apparently defeated two companies also.

It hasn’t. They showed up, quoted a high price and when told they
had the job, didn’t bother to show up to do the work, presumably
because that door design is a right bugger to adjust and there is
plenty of much easier work available, so they do that instead.

replying to Dave Plowman (News), Iggy wrote:
Just trying to be constructive, my brother's an Ivy League idiot. He throws
the instructions away and then wonders why whatever doesn't work. A garage
door is not a difficult task and not even expensive to start over with new
track, if that were ever needed. Only going from equal height panels to
today's (the last 30-years) asymmetry would cause such an abject failure and
that's old hat easy...low-clearance add-on.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1256884-.htm

In article ,
Iggy m wrote:
Just trying to be constructive, my brother's an Ivy League idiot.

Runs in the family?

--
*Where do forest rangers go to "get away from it all?"

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

replying to Dave Plowman (News), Iggy wrote:
Nope, I'm the opposite of my brother. I continue to learn and invent, he
stopped and rested on a pointless and has nothing to do with the real world
nonsense degree to turn into an idiot. You may be in the same situation. Your
brother may have, apparently, just barely made it through his last garage door
repair or replacement and went on to further himself away from home repair and
is now unredeemable, by choice.

That's what happened to my brother, getting older just meant getting more
daft. He's got all of the tools needed to do most anything around the house,
but now won't/can't replace the handle on the fireplace damper that broke off
and won't/can't slap some sticks to some boards to make himself a set of very
much needed shelves. He asked me for shelf plans and then threw my plans away
because 4-steps was too much...Step-1 was, go to store and place Lumber Order
for delivery.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1256884-.htm

Unfortunately the brackets don't seem to have any adjustments. Just bolted through the frame.

wrote

Unfortunately the brackets don't seem to have
any adjustments. Just bolted through the frame.

Which means that the only adjustment available, the spring
tension, must be what does the job adjustment wise.

replying to leenowell, Iggy wrote:
Well, until someone else comes along with recent experience with this exact
situation, you may have to release the springs and enlarge those holes to get
to the right adjustment if the entire assembly's hardware can't be slid up the
wall inside. The door may have been installed incorrectly and you may need to
hire someone to get it right, like drilling or cutting a little out of this
and that mounting to raise everything the needed few mm's.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1256884-.htm

On 17/12/2017 15:14, Iggy wrote:
replying to Dave Plowman (News), Iggy wrote:
Nope, I'm the opposite of my brother. I continue to learn

You haven't learnt to quote relevant text you're replying to. Perhaps
that says even less of your brother?

Or do you choose to go against convention when there's really no need to
or is a pointless exercise.

replying to Fredxx, Iggy wrote:
I know how to quote and apparently much better than the majority of your
colleagues, but I don't need it for the web and openly choose to reject your
very outdated reality. Ignoring that your last century methods have been
replaced by many vastly superior platforms DECADES AGO and continuing to
promote antiquity is quite, shall we say, unconventional.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1256884-.htm

On 18/12/2017 04:44, Iggy wrote:
replying to Fredxx, Iggy wrote: I know how to quote and apparently
much better than the majority of your colleagues, but I don't need it
for the web and openly choose to reject your very outdated reality.
Ignoring that your last century methods have been replaced by many
vastly superior platforms DECADES AGO and continuing to promote
antiquity is quite, shall we say, unconventional.


My colleagues don't generally post here.

Secondly, once again you have shown your inability to quote relevant
material.

The release of my Usenet software is less than a month old. Perhaps the
issue is your chosen and broken website is using dated software? Do you
know what it even uses?

In article ,
Iggy m wrote:
I know how to quote and apparently much better than the majority of your
colleagues, but I don't need it for the web

Pet, you don't quote for your benefit. You do it so others can more easily
follow the thread. Is doing things for others so foreign to you?

and openly choose to reject your
very outdated reality. Ignoring that your last century methods have been
replaced by many vastly superior platforms DECADES AGO and continuing to
promote antiquity is quite, shall we say, unconventional.

When in Rome, etc.

--
*My luck is so bad that if I bought a cemetery, people would stop dying.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.