I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger
Thinking I will take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even
standing on a hop-up step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a
ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

Make .... looking on eBay, plenty of makes to buy - cheap deals on new ones.
Thinking of avoiding any 'unknown makes'


Of the following any to avoid or are a particularly useful choice (or
any particular models of these makes)


McCulloch
Husqvarna
Parker
Sthil (though price may be too high for this make)

Advice welcome -

On Tuesday, 28 November 2017 17:01:21 UTC, rick wrote:
I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger
Thinking I will take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even
standing on a hop-up step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a
ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

Make .... looking on eBay, plenty of makes to buy - cheap deals on new ones.
Thinking of avoiding any 'unknown makes'


Of the following any to avoid or are a particularly useful choice (or
any particular models of these makes)


McCulloch
Husqvarna
Parker
Sthil (though price may be too high for this make)

Advice welcome -

If you can do it, electric chainsaws are cheaper, safer and more convenient.
You will need all the safety kit and info.
People get killed/injured using chainsaw.

On 28/11/2017 17:01, rick wrote:
I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out




I'll add ... I have used chainsaws many times, and have had a basic
chainsaw training course (by MOD) just looking at what to buy.

On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 17:01:04 +0000, rick
wrote:

I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

That will be a busy afternoon. ;-)

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger

Ok, so not 'big' by any tree standards.

Thinking I will take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even
standing on a hop-up step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a
ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.

Any reason for that?


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

I would think so, as would a 16". Basically you have the

Make .... looking on eBay, plenty of makes to buy - cheap deals on new ones.
Thinking of avoiding any 'unknown makes'

Well, if they last for the job and you aren't going to use it again
then you could be ok, especially if you get a decent warranty on it?



Of the following any to avoid or are a particularly useful choice (or
any particular models of these makes)



McCulloch

Could be ok if it lasts the job.

Husqvarna

Probably the 2nd choice for many professionals and possibly better
than their direct competitors (Sthil) in the case of later / some
models.

Parker

Never heard of them.

Sthil (though price may be too high for this make)

I think Sthil are a bit of 'You won't get fired buying IBM' and
everywhere knows them and you will be able to get spares for them
easily.

Advice welcome -

Whatever you get, make sure you don't leave it anywhere unattended (or
there is a good chance it will vanish).

https://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/prod...insaws/page/3/

If you get a Sthil (or Husky) the chances are it will:

Finish the job without failing.

Still be ready to do more work (like are you snedding / chogging these
trees up after felling)?

Still have a good second hand value if you want to sell it once done.

If you keep it and look after it it will probably still be running in
years to come. ;-)

If you are happy to not push it too hard (keep it sharp, use the
bumper spikes etc) then the little MS171 might do it (bigger would be
better of course), depending on your budget.

https://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/prod...nch-bar-chain/

(Avoid a bigger chain than needed as it's all more work for it to do).

Whereabouts are you Rick (roughly) as you might find a local Arb
college would get their students to do them for you for free. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 28/11/2017 17:47, rick wrote:
On 28/11/2017 17:01, rick wrote:
I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out




I'll add ... I have used chainsaws many times, and have had a basic
chainsaw training courseÂ* (by MOD)Â*Â* just looking at what to buy.

I have a Ryobi which is probably about 18 inch. I have several Ryobi
devices and reckon the mechanics sits somewhere in the middle between
"budget" and Stihl / DeWalt. Did have to replace an oil pump gear on the
chainsaw after not a great amount of use.

replying to harry, Iggy wrote:
Agreed, electric was the best thing I ever did. Just like using a Hedge
Trimmer, no problem in getting the stumps down to ground level and nothing to
service...including the chain now, I popped on an Oregon Power Sharp.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...e-1253099-.htm

"rick" wrote in message
news
I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger
Thinking I will take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even standing
on a hop-up step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

Make .... looking on eBay, plenty of makes to buy - cheap deals on new
ones.
Thinking of avoiding any 'unknown makes'


Of the following any to avoid or are a particularly useful choice (or any
particular models of these makes)


McCulloch
Husqvarna
Parker
Sthil (though price may be too high for this make)

Lot to be said for electric chainsaws. While superficially the
cord is a nuisance, in practice petrol chainsaws are a damned
pain like all small petrol engines. Particularly bad when they
stop when not standing on the ground tho not so bad in your
case when you say you dont plant to be up a proper ladder
or to climb the trees.

Advice welcome -

Even to shove your head up a dead bear's bum ? Funky.

I was just thinking that, the one time I ever held one it was like some
demented gyroscope with vibration. Don't go near one.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Huge" wrote in message
...
On 2017-11-28, rick wrote:
I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

Get some training. Chainsaws are *dangerous*.

Buy a good set of chainsaw files and learn to use them. Blunt chainsaws
are even more dangerous.

Buy a set of ballistic trousers and a hard hat with ear and face
protection.

Don't do any cutting on a hop-up. Falling off one with a running chainsaw
is dangerous.

[20 lines snipped]

McCulloch

I have a McCulloch. It's a pig to start and I doubt it would stand up
to professional use (it's mostly plastic) , but it works well enough for
occasional use.

Husqvarna
Parker

Never heard of them.

Stihl (though price may be too high for this make)

Every tree surgeon I've ever employed uses Stihl kit.

Advice welcome -

Consider getting someone in. Felling trees is dirty, hard, dangerous
work.

--
Today is Boomtime, the 40th day of The Aftermath in the YOLD 3183
Ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh wgah'nagl fhtagn.

On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 17:01:04 +0000, rick
wrote:

I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger
Thinking I will take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even
standing on a hop-up step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a
ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

For 8in-ish a 12in saw would be adequate.
(As an aside, I watched a tree surgeon take a 35ft conifer down
recently. He used three different saws, a small one he could hold with
one hand at the top, then a medium-sized one as the branches got
bigger, and then the big one for the main trunk, which he only used
from the ground.)

On 28/11/2017 17:01, rick wrote:
I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typicallyÂ* 8" ... a few are larger
Thinking I will take first cut at shoulder heightÂ* (or maybe even
standing on a hop-up step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a
ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

Make .... looking on eBay, plenty of makes to buy - cheap deals on new
ones.
Thinking of avoiding any 'unknown makes'


Of the following any to avoid or are a particularly useful choice (or
any particular models of these makes)


McCulloch
Husqvarna
Parker
SthilÂ* (though price may be too high for this make)

Advice welcome -

8" is not very big. I would cut standing on firm ground, and not
stretching upwards. Make sure that the tree falls the way you want,
perhaps using a rope. I bought a Stihl after my McCulloch gave up.

Most of the trees I have cut have already fallen!

--
Michael Chare

rick wrote:

I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

McCulloch
Husqvarna
Parker
Sthil (though price may be too high for this make)

Advice welcome -

Parker is just a badged Chinese product which you will probably never be able to get spares for
McCulloch is apparently a Husqvarna owned brand which are now owned by a Chinese company
but if that tree cutting is all you plan doing in the near future
get any of them that you could get a refund on if they fail.
Sthil is still the best imho

-

"Peter Johnson" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 17:01:04 +0000, rick
wrote:

I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger
Thinking I will take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even
standing on a hop-up step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a
ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

For 8in-ish a 12in saw would be adequate.
(As an aside, I watched a tree surgeon take a 35ft conifer down
recently. He used three different saws, a small one he could hold with
one hand at the top, then a medium-sized one as the branches got
bigger, and then the big one for the main trunk, which he only used
from the ground.)

One of my neighbours had a line of massive great palm trees removed
and the pro that did that just had spiked boots and a belt that went
around the trunk and around his waist. The same chainsaw for everything.

On 28/11/2017 17:01, rick wrote:
I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger
Thinking I will take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even
standing on a hop-up step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a
ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

Probably larger than you need - a 12" or 14" bar will do it. The shorter
bar will be easier to handle and the chains are cheaper.

Make .... looking on eBay, plenty of makes to buy - cheap deals on new
ones.
Thinking of avoiding any 'unknown makes'


Of the following any to avoid or are a particularly useful choice (or
any particular models of these makes)


McCulloch
Husqvarna
Parker
Sthil (though price may be too high for this make)

Any will do the the single job. The Husqvarna is a top end brand along
with the Sthil. McCulloch more aimed at the less professional user. No
idea about the Parker. Dolmar are also ok (got bought by Makita some
time back - but you may still see them under the original brand)

The semi pro Sthil kit is not actually too expensive, and would last
well / remain supported for years to come with intermittent use.

I would also recommend FR Jones & Son that someone else linked to - had
good service / advice from them in the past.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 17:01:04 +0000, rick wrote:

I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger Thinking I will
take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even standing on a hop-up
step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

Make .... looking on eBay, plenty of makes to buy - cheap deals on new
ones.
Thinking of avoiding any 'unknown makes'


Of the following any to avoid or are a particularly useful choice (or
any particular models of these makes)


McCulloch Husqvarna Parker Sthil (though price may be too high for this
make)

Advice welcome -

Nobody so far has mentioned hiring one.

I assume that you expect to get much long term use out of it, not just cut
down one row of conifers.

My first venture into chainsaws was a hired one.
I only bought once I was confident that I had a long term use.


Cheers


Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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In article ,
rick wrote:

On 28/11/2017 17:01, rick wrote:
I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out




I'll add ... I have used chainsaws many times, and have had a basic
chainsaw training course (by MOD) just looking at what to buy.

Haven't gone down any further in this thread yet, but having read your
[above]: then go buy a Stihl!

Huge's reply is really, really good. You may not need that information,
but a lot of others reading this need it.

I personally have down-sized to my sole electric Bosch chainsaw, which
is fabulous for the small scale domestic work that I do, and not as
intimidating as a bloody petrol engine screaming away in your lughole.

However you have one big job on your hands there, so don't stint, Stihl,
is what I'd say.

Now I'll read the rest of the thread ... a favourite topic in this group
:-D

J.

On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 12:43:55 PM UTC, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 17:01:04 +0000, rick wrote:

I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger Thinking I will
take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even standing on a hop-up
step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

Make .... looking on eBay, plenty of makes to buy - cheap deals on new
ones.
Thinking of avoiding any 'unknown makes'


Of the following any to avoid or are a particularly useful choice (or
any particular models of these makes)


McCulloch Husqvarna Parker Sthil (though price may be too high for this
make)

Advice welcome -

Nobody so far has mentioned hiring one.

I assume that you expect to get much long term use out of it, not just cut
down one row of conifers.

My first venture into chainsaws was a hired one.
I only bought once I was confident that I had a long term use.


Cheers


Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

+1

In article ,
Huge writes:
On 2017-11-28, rick wrote:
Stihl (though price may be too high for this make)

Every tree surgeon I've ever employed uses Stihl kit.

My Stihl hedge cutter is very nice to use, smooth, very quiet, but
very powerful. (Was recommended here at the time.)

Buying it was a pain in the arse - Stihl won't let their distributors
send out by courier - you have to pick up in person, and they require
their distributor to run through safety with you. For chain saws, you
had to bring your training certificate with you, or you wouldn't be
allowed to take it away (although I wasn't buying a chain saw so that
didn't apply).

Don't know if they're all as compliant as the ones around me, and
this was probably ~10 years ago).

Consider getting someone in. Felling trees is dirty, hard, dangerous
work.

and will be able to chip the felled trees and drive them away.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 29/11/2017 18:31, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Huge writes:
On 2017-11-28, rick wrote:
Stihl (though price may be too high for this make)

Every tree surgeon I've ever employed uses Stihl kit.

My Stihl hedge cutter is very nice to use, smooth, very quiet, but
very powerful. (Was recommended here at the time.)

I got one of their "kombi" motor units to replace my second crap ryobi
(you can just about get the ryobi and husqvarna accessories to fit it).
That has been exceptionally good. Easy to start, light, powerful, great
fuel economy, and will run in any position or angle.

Buying it was a pain in the arse - Stihl won't let their distributors
send out by courier - you have to pick up in person, and they require
their distributor to run through safety with you. For chain saws, you
had to bring your training certificate with you, or you wouldn't be
allowed to take it away (although I wasn't buying a chain saw so that
didn't apply).

Don't know if they're all as compliant as the ones around me, and
this was probably ~10 years ago).

The place I recommended elsewhere in the thread, claim on their web site
that this is what they have send one of their staff to deliver it in
person so they can do the "training". Then it turns up by courier ;-)

Consider getting someone in. Felling trees is dirty, hard, dangerous
work.

and will be able to chip the felled trees and drive them away.

Yup something to be said for that... might be pricey for 100+ trees though.

--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

On 29/11/17 20:19, John Rumm wrote:
On 29/11/2017 18:31, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â*Â*Huge writes:
On 2017-11-28, rick wrote:
StihlÂ* (though price may be too high for this make)

Every tree surgeon I've ever employed uses Stihl kit.

My Stihl hedge cutter is very nice to use, smooth, very quiet, but
very powerful. (Was recommended here at the time.)

I got one of their "kombi" motor units to replace my second crap ryobi
(you can just about get the ryobi and husqvarna accessories to fit it).
That has been exceptionally good. Easy to start, light, powerful, great
fuel economy, and will run in any position or angle.

Buying it was a pain in the arse - Stihl won't let their distributors
send out by courier - you have to pick up in person, and they require
their distributor to run through safety with you. For chain saws, you
had to bring your training certificate with you, or you wouldn't be
allowed to take it away (although I wasn't buying a chain saw so that
didn't apply).

Don't know if they're all as compliant as the ones around me, and
this was probably ~10 years ago).

The place I recommended elsewhere in the thread, claim on their web site
that this is what they have send one of their staff to deliver it in
person so they can do the "training". Then it turns up by courier ;-)

Consider getting someone in. Felling trees is dirty, hard, dangerous
work.

and will be able to chip the felled trees and drive them away.

Yup something to be said for that... might be pricey for 100+ trees though.

If you have an ounce of common sense - so basically its not for
remoaners - chainsaw safety is intelligent common sense plus a bit of
kit, though I never bothered. The salient points are all there on you
tube videos and online articles.




--
"Socialist governments traditionally do make a financial mess. They
always run out of other people's money. It's quite a characteristic of them"

Margaret Thatcher

On 28/11/2017 17:47, rick wrote:
On 28/11/2017 17:01, rick wrote:
I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out




I'll add ... I have used chainsaws many times, and have had a basic
chainsaw training courseÂ* (by MOD)Â*Â* just looking at what to buy.

If its a one off job and is within extension lead reach of mains
electricity go electric. Cheap electric chainsaws are more reliable than
cheap IC engines ones.

Mike

On Thu, 30 Nov 2017 11:38:41 +0000, Muddymike
wrote:

If its a one off job and is within extension lead reach of mains
electricity go electric.

Or a suitable generator? Daughter used my electric saw at an Arb show
(to try to do some carving) via her 2kW genny and whilst it actually
'worked', it was nowhere near as useable as her 'dime tip' carving saw
(even if she had a suitable carving bar for the electric saw it was
much heavier and bulky than her Stihl carving saw and the cable *did*
keep getting in the way and hung up on stuff, potentially leading to
some very dangerous situations).

Cheap electric chainsaws are more reliable than
cheap IC engines ones.

I'd probably agree with that, however, if it went wrong (oil pump
etc), I'm not sure how easy it would be to fix / get spares for (if
you were bothered to etc).

Daughter has looked at some the latest battery powered kit and if
money wasn't an option, might have a small battery saw and possibly a
battery strimmer, for 'tidying up' rather than all day use.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. You can do some axe felling practice he ;-)
https://en.stihl.ca/chop-a-log.aspx

On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 17:01:04 +0000
rick wrote:

Advice welcome -

Before you start chopping them down have a go at pulling them out -
I've found a few smaller conifers I've removed have had underdeveloped
root systems and toppled with relatively little force. As yours are
medium sized you could try hitching a hand winch between a couple. Then
you'd only have to tidy them up for removal, for which a cheap electric
chainsaw would probably be adequate.

On Tuesday, 28 November 2017 17:01:21 UTC, rick wrote:
I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger
Thinking I will take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even
standing on a hop-up step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a
ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

Make .... looking on eBay, plenty of makes to buy - cheap deals on new ones.
Thinking of avoiding any 'unknown makes'


Of the following any to avoid or are a particularly useful choice (or
any particular models of these makes)


McCulloch
Husqvarna
Parker
Sthil (though price may be too high for this make)

Advice welcome -

If you just cut them you are left with all the stumps. I had a similar issue with 30 Leylandii a couple of years ago so I invested in an ex-army Tirfor winch (cable puller). A magic device!
Attach cable about 7 feet up on the tree you want to take out and use another tree at ground level as the anchor. As the roots appear out of the ground, chop them with a HD spring steel fencing spear with a 2" blade.
You can sell the Tirfor later for the same money.

On Thu, 30 Nov 2017 13:13:40 -0800 (PST), Bazza
wrote:

snip

If you just cut them you are left with all the stumps. I had a similar issue with 30 Leylandii a couple of years ago so I invested in an ex-army Tirfor winch (cable puller). A magic device!

They are indeed. ;-)

Attach cable about 7 feet up on the tree you want to take out and use another tree at ground level as the anchor.

If the anchor tree is one you are keeping then a webbing type 'strop'
around it to protect the cambium, or a few turns of a reasonably heavy
rope might be a good idea, with a shackle going round the anchor line
to the Tirfor (depending on how sharp the Tirfor 'hook' is).

As the roots appear out of the ground, chop them with a HD spring steel fencing spear with a 2" blade.

I have a Tirfor 'Jockey' and even with that (it's only small) I was
able to break out the tap root of a fairly large tree (about 2'
diameter') we had cut down to about 8'.

You can sell the Tirfor later for the same money.

Or keep if for all the things you can now use it for (lifting,
pulling, recovering, felling ...). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I think you are supposed to lay / hand a sack or something over
the steel wire to stop it whipping back if it should break?

On Wednesday, 29 November 2017 12:43:55 UTC, David WE Roberts (Google) wrote:
On Tue, 28 Nov 2017 17:01:04 +0000, rick wrote:

I could do with a chainsaw .... have around 150 Leylandi to cut out

The diam of trunk is typically 8" ... a few are larger Thinking I will
take first cut at shoulder height (or maybe even standing on a hop-up
step) - but not intending to climb tree or use of a ladder.
Then do final cut at just above ground level as 2nd cut.


I have a couple of questions - for those that use chainsaws frequently.

Size .... is 18" a suitable size for this job ? if so would aim to get
50cc engines (some are 40cc)

Make .... looking on eBay, plenty of makes to buy - cheap deals on new
ones.
Thinking of avoiding any 'unknown makes'


Of the following any to avoid or are a particularly useful choice (or
any particular models of these makes)


McCulloch Husqvarna Parker Sthil (though price may be too high for this
make)

Advice welcome -

Nobody so far has mentioned hiring one.

I assume that you expect to get much long term use out of it, not just cut
down one row of conifers.

My first venture into chainsaws was a hired one.
I only bought once I was confident that I had a long term use.


Cheers


Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

A lot of hire shops won't touch them.
I assume they're afraid of getting sued if some idiot cuts a leg off.
Plus they'd have to provide all the safety gear.

On Wednesday, 29 November 2017 18:31:46 UTC, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Huge writes:
On 2017-11-28, rick wrote:
Stihl (though price may be too high for this make)

Every tree surgeon I've ever employed uses Stihl kit.

My Stihl hedge cutter is very nice to use, smooth, very quiet, but
very powerful. (Was recommended here at the time.)

Buying it was a pain in the arse - Stihl won't let their distributors
send out by courier - you have to pick up in person, and they require
their distributor to run through safety with you. For chain saws, you
had to bring your training certificate with you, or you wouldn't be
allowed to take it away (although I wasn't buying a chain saw so that
didn't apply).

Don't know if they're all as compliant as the ones around me, and
this was probably ~10 years ago).

Consider getting someone in. Felling trees is dirty, hard, dangerous
work.

and will be able to chip the felled trees and drive them away.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

The chips are far too useful to let them be taken away.
Compost or mulch.

On Fri, 1 Dec 2017 00:43:03 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:

snip

The chips are far too useful to let them be taken away.
Compost or mulch.

If a conifer I think you are supposed to leave the chips to stand for
a while to allow the sap to go away before using them for anything
that is supposed to promote growth or protection for other plants?

Cheers, T i m

On Wed, 29 Nov 2017 20:19:58 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

The place I recommended elsewhere in the thread, claim on their web site
that this is what they have send one of their staff to deliver it in
person so they can do the "training". Then it turns up by courier ;-)

I buy from the same firm and this ruse is because of Stihl's policy of
not allowing mail order for power tools.

I would look as a Dolmar 420 as an easy to start and use semi
professional saw.

Having said that, and despite having a stable of older Husqvarna and
Stihl products, I have been using an Einhell 50cc saw which could be
had for £80 in costco, I was given it for disposal in mint condition
but no chain. I have put about 4 gallons of fuel through it and am
half way through a chain and it's still running, it's light and for
the price basically disposable should anything go wrong.

It has nowhere near the power of a Husqvarna 550 but unless you're
doing production work so what.

AJH

harry Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 29 November 2017 18:31:46 UTC, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Huge writes:
On 2017-11-28, rick wrote:
Stihl (though price may be too high for this make)

Every tree surgeon I've ever employed uses Stihl kit.

My Stihl hedge cutter is very nice to use, smooth, very quiet, but
very powerful. (Was recommended here at the time.)

Buying it was a pain in the arse - Stihl won't let their distributors
send out by courier - you have to pick up in person, and they require
their distributor to run through safety with you. For chain saws, you
had to bring your training certificate with you, or you wouldn't be
allowed to take it away (although I wasn't buying a chain saw so that
didn't apply).

Don't know if they're all as compliant as the ones around me, and
this was probably ~10 years ago).

Consider getting someone in. Felling trees is dirty, hard, dangerous
work.

and will be able to chip the felled trees and drive them away.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

The chips are far too useful to let them be taken away.
Compost or mulch.


Doused in oil from chain bar lubrication , mmmm yummy
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 06/12/17 21:39, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message:


The chips are far too useful to let them be taken away.
Compost or mulch.


Doused in oil from chain bar lubrication , mmmm yummy

I see that you are sufficiently ignorant not to know that all saw chain
oil has been biodegradable for decades.



--
€œSome people like to travel by train because it combines the slowness of
a car with the cramped public exposure of €¨an airplane.€�

Dennis Miller

On Thu, 7 Dec 2017 06:24:52 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

On 06/12/17 21:39, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message:


The chips are far too useful to let them be taken away.
Compost or mulch.


Doused in oil from chain bar lubrication , mmmm yummy

I see that you are sufficiently ignorant not to know that all saw chain
oil has been biodegradable for decades.

Whilst I have used OSR for a couple of decades I suspect I am in a
small minority with most firms using a mineral chainsaw oil.

AJH

On 07/12/17 09:25, wrote:
On Thu, 7 Dec 2017 06:24:52 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

On 06/12/17 21:39, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message:


The chips are far too useful to let them be taken away.
Compost or mulch.


Doused in oil from chain bar lubrication , mmmm yummy

I see that you are sufficiently ignorant not to know that all saw chain
oil has been biodegradable for decades.

Whilst I have used OSR for a couple of decades I suspect I am in a
small minority with most firms using a mineral chainsaw oil.


I couldn't buy mineral chainsaw oil. They said it was now banned

AJH



--
All political activity makes complete sense once the proposition that
all government is basically a self-legalising protection racket, is
fully understood.

The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message:
On 06/12/17 21:39, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message:


The chips are far too useful to let them be taken away.
Compost or mulch.


Doused in oil from chain bar lubrication , mmmm yummy

I see that you are sufficiently ignorant not to know that all saw chain
oil has been biodegradable for decades.


In reality (of course) I have more direct experience than you.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message:
On 07/12/17 09:25, wrote:
On Thu, 7 Dec 2017 06:24:52 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

On 06/12/17 21:39, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message:


The chips are far too useful to let them be taken away.
Compost or mulch.


Doused in oil from chain bar lubrication , mmmm yummy

I see that you are sufficiently ignorant not to know that all saw chain
oil has been biodegradable for decades.

Whilst I have used OSR for a couple of decades I suspect I am in a
small minority with most firms using a mineral chainsaw oil.


I couldn't buy mineral chainsaw oil. They said it was now banned


And *you* believed that? :-D
Stick to politics.
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 28/11/2017 17:28, harry wrote:
ce may be too high for this make)

Advice welcome -

If you can do it, electric chainsaws are cheaper, safer and more convenient.

See 2200W versions for good price - Screwfix has a very good deal

On Fri, 08 Dec 2017 23:05:55 +0000, rick wrote:

On 28/11/2017 17:28, harry wrote:
ce may be too high for this make)

Advice welcome -

If you can do it, electric chainsaws are cheaper, safer and more
convenient.

"safer"? in use? I don't think so. Perhaps harry means because they
don't use petrol. "more convenient" - possibly - if you have a mains
supply accessible.


See 2200W versions for good price - Screwfix has a very good deal

"Mark Allread" wrote in message
o.uk...
On Fri, 08 Dec 2017 23:05:55 +0000, rick wrote:

On 28/11/2017 17:28, harry wrote:
ce may be too high for this make)

Advice welcome -

If you can do it, electric chainsaws are cheaper, safer and more
convenient.

"safer"? in use?

Yep. the driving force stops instantly and the chain brake works much
better.

I don't think so.

Fraid so.

Perhaps harry means because they don't use petrol.

Nope.

"more convenient" - possibly

No possibly about it, most obviously when it stops when you are up a ladder
etc.

- if you have a mains supply accessible.

Or have a generator.

See 2200W versions for good price - Screwfix has a very good deal