I plan on finding the last light in loop that should have only 2 cables into
it. From there I take 1.5mm t&e joined into that light fitting to a fused
switch I plan on putting 3amp fuse max into that and the flex from the light
unit would be permanently fixed into that switch. The light unit is metal it
runs 4x t5 tubes equal to 4x 54w tubes 0.96amps. I run cable from lighting
fixture to fused switch then the light is fixed into the switch. Is this all
sound correct have I missed anything. The light is free hanging on adjustable
hangers.

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On Thu, 12 Oct 2017 12:14:02 GMT, Yam man
m coalesced the
vapors of human experience into a viable and meaningful
comprehension...

I plan on finding the last light in loop that should have only 2 cables into
it. From there I take 1.5mm t&e joined into that light fitting to a fused
switch I plan on putting 3amp fuse max into that and the flex from the light
unit would be permanently fixed into that switch. The light unit is metal it
runs 4x t5 tubes equal to 4x 54w tubes 0.96amps. I run cable from lighting
fixture to fused switch then the light is fixed into the switch. Is this all
sound correct have I missed anything. The light is free hanging on adjustable
hangers.

The FCU seems unnecessary to me, why not use an ordinary switch?

--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%

Graham. wrote:
On Thu, 12 Oct 2017 12:14:02 GMT, Yam man
m coalesced the
vapors of human experience into a viable and meaningful
comprehension...

I plan on finding the last light in loop that should have only 2 cables into
it. From there I take 1.5mm t&e joined into that light fitting to a fused
switch I plan on putting 3amp fuse max into that and the flex from the light
unit would be permanently fixed into that switch. The light unit is metal it
runs 4x t5 tubes equal to 4x 54w tubes 0.96amps. I run cable from lighting
fixture to fused switch then the light is fixed into the switch. Is this all
sound correct have I missed anything. The light is free hanging on adjustable
hangers.

The FCU seems unnecessary to me, why not use an ordinary switch?

And there is no need to find the end of the line. Picking up unswitched
power from the nearest convenient lighting JB or ceiling rose should be
fine. Dont forget to take an earth to the light fitting as well.

replying to Bob Minchin, Yam man wrote:
Thanks for input guys. So I've found a lighting cable that reads live on
voltage tester pen I can turn off breaker to lights then cut that cable wire
both ends into a new 4way 20 amp jb. Join my switch into that loop then from
switch I join on my light? Is that correct? I have basic knowledge and
awareness of electrics but I'm a mechanic not a sparky so apologies if I'm not
very quick on uptake we all learn new sometime. I'm not sure about where the
earth come from or to for the light fitting? It has a cable and 3pin usual
plug on I plan on cutting it off and it should have earth in that is that not
sufficient? Thanks again for all and any help.

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On Thu, 12 Oct 2017 20:44:02 GMT, Yam man
m coalesced the
vapors of human experience into a viable and meaningful
comprehension...

replying to Bob Minchin, Yam man wrote:
Thanks for input guys. So I've found a lighting cable that reads live on
voltage tester pen I can turn off breaker to lights then cut that cable wire
both ends into a new 4way 20 amp jb. Join my switch into that loop then from
switch I join on my light? Is that correct? I have basic knowledge and
awareness of electrics but I'm a mechanic not a sparky so apologies if I'm not
very quick on uptake we all learn new sometime. I'm not sure about where the
earth come from or to for the light fitting? It has a cable and 3pin usual
plug on I plan on cutting it off and it should have earth in that is that not
sufficient? Thanks again for all and any help.

Odd that it was supplied with a plug, but that seems OK.
Just for the avoidance of doubt, this lighting circuit is protected by
a 6 amp breaker, yes?

--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%

replying to Graham., Yam man wrote:
Hi thanks for reply graham yes the lighting circuit is protected by 6amp
breaker. It has 8 lights upstairs and all seem to have 3 wires into each
ceiling rose/light fitting. All CFL bulbs apart from 1 that has 5 gu10 bulbs
on the light bar in daughters room. That will be changed over next few weeks
to usual CFL x2. That's my lighting sorted out now then. Thanks for help. Next
project is getting 2 double switched sockets up there. Any help advise greatly
appreciated guys

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On 12/10/2017 21:44, Yam man wrote:
replying to Bob Minchin, Yam man wrote:
Thanks for input guys. So I've found a lighting cable that reads live on
voltage tester pen I can turn off breaker to lights then cut that cable
wire
both ends into a new 4way 20 amp jb. Join my switch into that loop then
from
switch I join on my light? Is that correct? I have basic knowledge and
awareness of electrics but I'm a mechanic not a sparky so apologies if

Here is how you normally do "loop in" wiring with junction boxes or at a
switch location:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...Wiring_Options


I'm not
very quick on uptake we all learn new sometime. I'm not sure about where
the
earth come from or to for the light fitting? It has a cable and 3pin usual
plug on I plan on cutting it off and it should have earth in that is
that not
sufficient? Thanks again for all and any help.

Yup the earth in its flex will be adequate.


--
Cheers,

John.

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replying to John Rumm, Yam man wrote:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...Wiring_Options


Thanks for that John great help. It will take me awhile to get to grips with
as I said previously I'm a grease monkey only normally deal with 12v
electrics. I'm not stupid I'm aware that this voltage is extreme to what I'm
used to but with help from you guys I'm sure I can obtain the result I need.

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EEk, dont think you should put sockets on a lighting circuit, wire's too thin, somebody might plug in a heater. And legally you'd need council building control.

Why not use an extension lead off of an existing 15 or 30 amp socket?

I think its still legally an extension lead if you have to remove the plug before threading it through holes in floors and ceilings and walls, make sure its a big fat wire if it goes a long way and may have heaters, kettles, elec tools etc off it at some time in the future. And replace the plug with a 13 amp fuse, or10 amp, or 3.

If you blow the lights circuit fuse all the lights will go off, so get a battery backup light too!

[george]

Yam man wrote:
12:44 PM (3 hours ago)
replying to Graham., Yam man wrote:
Hi thanks for reply graham yes the lighting circuit is protected by 6amp
breaker. xxx Next
project is getting 2 double switched sockets up there. Any help advise greatly
appreciated guys

On 13/10/2017 16:34, DICEGEORGE wrote:

EEk, dont think you should put sockets on a lighting circuit, wire's
too thin, somebody might plug in a heater.

So long as you label them as only being suitable for loads under (say)
3A then you are ok.

The wire will be adequately protected against fault and overload by the
MCB, so that is ok.

And legally you'd need
council building control.

No you don't. That would only be for a job classed as "notifiable". That
does not include extending existing circuits, or work in a loft.

(it would include changing the main CU or adding completely new circuits)



--
Cheers,

John.

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replying to John Rumm, Yam man wrote:
Sorry not been clear in last post. The Fcu will have only 3amp fuse in for the
described light that's goin to be removed if I ever remove the light from the
lighting curcuit. I wouldn't take double sockets from lighting as I know it's
a no no unless amped down to 3-5 amp max? But I plan on taking cable from the
rear of our socket on the landing down inside wall and under floorboards run
of around 6ft then up the inside of cupboard halfway up wall into 13amp sfu
then cable into loft which is run of around 15-18ft clipping it directly to
the wall in cupboard and into loft then a double switched 13 amp socket from
which I want to future proof and add a 2nd double socket. (Never no might hide
away from the wife and need home cinema kit installed) that's the plan for
the power sockets does that all sound ok? Is there any rule reason not to use
4mm t&e to spur from socket? I'm using 1.5mm for the lighting curcuit. Does
this all sound ok or am I seriously missing something? Thanks for help again
guys

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On 13/10/2017 23:44, Yam man wrote:
replying to John Rumm, Yam man wrote:

Sorry not been clear in last post. The Fcu will have only 3amp fuse
in for the described light that's goin to be removed if I ever remove
the light from the lighting curcuit. I wouldn't take double sockets
from lighting as I know it's a no no unless amped down to 3-5 amp
max? But I plan on taking cable

Its not uncommon for example to add some sockets in a loft to a lighting
circuit to allow things life aerial amps to to be powered.

from the rear of our socket on the landing down inside wall and under
floorboards run of around 6ft then up the inside of cupboard
halfway up wall into 13amp sfu then cable into loft which is run of
around 15-18ft clipping it directly to the wall in cupboard and into
loft then a double switched 13 amp socket from which I want to future
proof and add a 2nd double socket.

If it were just one double socket, then you could do without the FCU
(i.e. it would count as an unfused spur). Its only when you add more
sockets you need the extra fuse.

(Never no might hide away from the
wife and need home cinema kit installed) that's the plan for the
power sockets does that all sound ok? Is there any rule reason not
to use 4mm t&e to spur from socket?

No rule, but also little point usually. If its a 13A fused spur, you
wont need that size cable for the extra current carrying capacity
(2.5mm^2 CSA is rated at 27A when lipped direct to a surface).

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cables#Cable_Sizes

Also its harder to work with the thicker cable, and you may find it
difficult getting it into the terminals on the socket if it already has
2 x 2.5mm^2 in each one.

I'm using 1.5mm for the lighting
curcuit. Does this all sound ok or am I seriously missing something?

Lighting circuits are typically wired in 1.0mm^2 or 1.5mm^2 so that is
fine... (there is a fair degree of over specification for lighting
circuits anyway, since even the 1.0mm^2 cable is typically rated at
least that of the MCB on most lighting circuits).



--
Cheers,

John.

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replying to John Rumm, Yam man wrote:
Thanks for the help advise will update how I get on. I'm glad there's still
some helpful people out there. Cheers again. I'm adding the fused switch to
the socket spur then in future I just need to add to that is this correct? Is
there limit to the amount of sockets took from fused spur? Thanks again

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replying to John Rumm, Yam man wrote:
Hi have jumped ahead with socket install John as I had access to plenty 2.5 MM
cable. I have ran the spur off the socket and ran it around 15 ft under floor
space then up inside cupboard clipped to the inside of door frame and ended in
a 13 amp switched fused unit I am going to run the 2.5 directly up from the
switch through the ceiling into my loft mounted on timbers is 1st double
socket (run of around 14-18ft) which is all metal surface mounted then if I'm
correct I run another length from that to my final socket. Not to sure about
earthing though any input greatly appreciated. I use incoming earth from fused
switch to face plate then fly earth from plate to back boxes is this all sound
correct?

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£4.09 13A UK Mains 240V Power Socket Safe Plug Tester - Safety Polarity/Earth Checker
is an easy way to check all sockets for missing earth etc,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13A-UK-Mai...4AAOSwnLdWtJfk