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Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case clocks
as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast.
He offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where
desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights
and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever
seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And that was
it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the ancient engineer
who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"
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newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case
clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the
weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And that
was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after about 3
months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do that) and it
worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock oil -
but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do that).
12 months later it is still going.


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Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case
clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the
weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And that
was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after about 3
months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do that) and it
worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock oil -
but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do that).
12 months later it is still going.


When I were a lad some 60 years ago, we had a pendulum wall clock in an
enclosed case at home. The local clock repairer who lived next door told
us to put a small jar in the bottom of the case with cotton wool in it
and add a few teaspoons of paraffin and keep it moist thereafter. Seems
the oily vapour kept everything lubricated. It ran perfectly for tens of
years before the spring broke.
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On 30/09/2017 16:23, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case
clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the
weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And that
was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after about 3
months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do that) and it
worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock oil -
but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do that).
12 months later it is still going.



My friend's mother greased the sun roof of her car with butter. She was
terribly proud of having got the better of her garage, who had wanted to
charge her for this. It worked very well, but it was a bit whiffy.
Olive oil would have been a better choice.


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newshound wrote:

Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case clocks
as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast.
He offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where
desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights
and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever
seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And that was
it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the ancient engineer
who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


My electrician, whom I have known for over 50 years, about twos year ago
bragged that he sprayed WD-40 on his knees to ease the joints. I was
staggered.

However a few weeks ago he confessed that one had been replaced. I didn't
have the nerve to ask about the other.

--
Mageia 5.1 for x86_64, Kernel:4.4.82-desktop-1.mga5
KDE version 4.14.5 on an AMD Phenom II X4 Black edition.


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GB wrote:
On 30/09/2017 16:23, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long
case clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at
work. So he arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism,
checks the weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of
WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds!
And that was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after
about 3 months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do
that) and it worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock
oil - but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do
that). 12 months later it is still going.



My friend's mother greased the sun roof of her car with butter. She
was terribly proud of having got the better of her garage, who had
wanted to charge her for this. It worked very well, but it was a bit
whiffy. Olive oil would have been a better choice.


I still have my dads H Samuel wrist watch. It must be well over 80 years
old. It still works.
He used take it for cleaning and told me that the watch guy used to suspend
it over a tub of meths and that is what cleaned it.
I've always had doubts about this.


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On 30/09/2017 19:25, Pinnerite wrote:
newshound wrote:

Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case clocks
as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast.
He offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where
desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights
and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever
seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And that was
it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the ancient engineer
who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


My electrician, whom I have known for over 50 years, about twos year ago
bragged that he sprayed WD-40 on his knees to ease the joints. I was
staggered.

However a few weeks ago he confessed that one had been replaced. I didn't
have the nerve to ask about the other.


Did they have grease nipples?

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GB wrote:
On 30/09/2017 16:23, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case
clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work.
So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the
weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And
that
was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after about 3
months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do that) and it
worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock
oil -
but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do that).
12 months later it is still going.



My friend's mother greased the sun roof of her car with butter. She was
terribly proud of having got the better of her garage, who had wanted to
charge her for this. It worked very well, but it was a bit whiffy. Olive
oil would have been a better choice.


I used to clean my shoes with olive oil - it works well, but eventually
seems to evaporate or dry up somehow. I had the idea of using boiled
linseed oil instead, since it sort of hardens a bit, and I think it's
just perfect. Wouldn't use anything else now.

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The oil I used to like was that supplied for sewing machines. Quite why it
was called sewing machine oil when it seemed to work wonders on almost
anything was a bit of a mystery.
Brian

--
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graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________


"Mr Pounder Esquire" wrote in message
news
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case
clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So
he arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the
weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And
that was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after about 3
months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do that) and it
worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock oil -
but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do that).
12 months later it is still going.





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"newshound" wrote in message
news
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case clocks
as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast. He
offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where desired.
Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he arrives, takes
off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights and their cables
and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever seen and sprays the
entire works for about ten seconds! And that was it. It is still going
some ten years later, unlike the ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


http://aprilfool.s3.amazonaws.com/2010wd40_lg.jpg


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In article ,
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case clocks
as heirlooms.


"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast.
He offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where
desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights
and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever
seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And that was
it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the ancient engineer
who has recently died.


I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


There's no doubt WD40 can make things work that needed lubrication. The
real question is if it is a short or long term fix.

--
*I used up all my sick days so I called in dead

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On 30/09/2017 18:17, Bob Minchin wrote:
Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case
clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired.Â* Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work.
So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the
weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And
that
was it.Â* It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after about 3
months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do that) and it
worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock
oil -
but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do that).
12 months later it is still going.


When I were a lad some 60 years ago, we had a pendulum wall clock in an
enclosed case at home. The local clock repairer who lived next door told
us to put a small jar in the bottom of the case with cotton wool in it
and add a few teaspoons of paraffin and keep it moist thereafter. Seems
the oily vapour kept everything lubricated. It ran perfectly for tens of
years before the spring broke.


Perfectly sound idea. In a well-sealed space you could use a thin oil. 3
in 1 might be good, I think its rust inhibitor is also sufficiently
volatile to prevent (or reduce) corrosion of steel parts.
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On Sat, 30 Sep 2017 16:02:01 +0100, newshound wrote:

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


Knew it had to be good for *something*.



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On 01/10/2017 09:23, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
"newshound" wrote in message
news
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case clocks
as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast. He
offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where desired.
Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he arrives, takes
off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights and their cables
and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever seen and sprays the
entire works for about ten seconds! And that was it. It is still going
some ten years later, unlike the ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


http://aprilfool.s3.amazonaws.com/2010wd40_lg.jpg


Well you can get Diesel brand "men's grooming" products. If it smells of
diesel they might as well call it ****.

--
Max Demian


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On Sun, 1 Oct 2017 12:03:10 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Sat, 30 Sep 2017 16:02:01 +0100, newshound wrote:

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


Knew it had to be good for *something*.


Ah - the modern lava lamp.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
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Brian Gaff wrote

Another one. A friend of mine recently had a knee replacement and she
swears when she came around there was a strong smell of WD 40.


Makes you wonder.


Nope, bet the maintenance fella used it on the adjustment
mechanism on the bed or something like that.

"newshound" wrote in message
news
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case clocks
as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast.
He offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where desired.
Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he arrives, takes
off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights and their cables
and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever seen and sprays the
entire works for about ten seconds! And that was it. It is still going
some ten years later, unlike the ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"



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Brian Gaff wrote

The oil I used to like was that supplied for sewing machines. Quite why it
was called sewing machine oil when it seemed to work wonders on almost
anything was a bit of a mystery.


Because it was mostly used on sewing machines at that time.

"Mr Pounder Esquire" wrote in message
news
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case
clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So
he arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the
weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And
that was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after about 3
months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do that) and it
worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock
oil - but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do that).
12 months later it is still going.



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On 01/10/2017 10:51, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case clocks
as heirlooms.


"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast.
He offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where
desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights
and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever
seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds! And that was
it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the ancient engineer
who has recently died.


I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


There's no doubt WD40 can make things work that needed lubrication. The
real question is if it is a short or long term fix.


From another newsgroup I have learned that WD40 is a no-no for model
railway locomotives. It apprently works great at first, but then drys a
little, becomes sticky and gather's dust and muck into the mechanism.

SteveW
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according to NASA WD40 is not a lubricant but a water displacment agent.
ive seen tiny amounts used effectively on squeaky car fan belts.
most oils dry with time. Tung oil and walnut oil are said not to
degrade very quickly. In guided missiles they use Whale Oil for gyro
lubrication. Or used to.


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On 01/10/2017 20:55, Steve Walker wrote:
On 01/10/2017 10:51, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â* newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case clocks
as heirlooms.


"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast.
He offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where
desired.Â* Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work.Â* So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights
and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever
seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds!Â* And that was
it.Â* It is still going some ten years later, unlike the ancient engineer
who has recently died.


I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


There's no doubt WD40 can make things work that needed lubrication. The
real question is if it is a short or long term fix.


From another newsgroup I have learned that WD40 is a no-no for model
railway locomotives. It apprently works great at first, but then drys a
little, becomes sticky and gather's dust and muck into the mechanism.


That's what I've found - the hard way using it on bikes. Maybe because
the clock's enclosed makes a difference?


--
Cheers, Rob
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On 01/10/2017 21:09, RJH wrote:
On 01/10/2017 20:55, Steve Walker wrote:
On 01/10/2017 10:51, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Â*Â*Â* newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case
clocks
as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast.
He offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where
desired.Â* Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work.Â* So he
arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights
and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever
seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds!Â* And that was
it.Â* It is still going some ten years later, unlike the ancient
engineer
who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"

There's no doubt WD40 can make things work that needed lubrication. The
real question is if it is a short or long term fix.


Â*From another newsgroup I have learned that WD40 is a no-no for model
railway locomotives. It apprently works great at first, but then drys
a little, becomes sticky and gather's dust and muck into the mechanism.


That's what I've found - the hard way using it on bikes. Maybe because
the clock's enclosed makes a difference?


I suspect that the clearances in a long-case clock are larger. But as
you say, being enclosed means there is less access for dust etc from the
outside world.
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On 01/10/2017 21:02, john.west wrote:
according to NASA WD40 is not a lubricant but a water displacment agent.
ive seen tiny amounts used effectively on squeaky car fan belts.
most oils dry with time.Â* Tung oil and walnut oil are said not to
degrade very quickly. In guided missiles they use Whale Oil for gyro
lubrication. Or used to.


Many vegetable (and animal) oils "dry", i.e. go solid because of
oxidation and cross-linking, linseed being a particularly good example.
This doesn't happen to the paraffinic hydrocarbons which are normally a
large component of mineral oils, but it may happen to a degree with less
highly refined oils (unsaturated hydrocarbons may also polymerise). If
modern mineral oils appear to "dry out" in service, it is normally
because of simple evaporation.
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"Cursitor Doom" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 30 Sep 2017 16:02:01 +0100, newshound wrote:

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


Knew it had to be good for *something*.


You could always throw the can of it at the cat.

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On Saturday, 30 September 2017 19:38:13 UTC+1, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
GB wrote:
On 30/09/2017 16:23, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long
case clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at
work. So he arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism,
checks the weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of
WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds!
And that was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"

I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after
about 3 months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do
that) and it worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock
oil - but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do
that). 12 months later it is still going.



My friend's mother greased the sun roof of her car with butter. She
was terribly proud of having got the better of her garage, who had
wanted to charge her for this. It worked very well, but it was a bit
whiffy. Olive oil would have been a better choice.


I still have my dads H Samuel wrist watch. It must be well over 80 years
old. It still works.
He used take it for cleaning and told me that the watch guy used to suspend
it over a tub of meths and that is what cleaned it.
I've always had doubts about this.


I have seen watch mechanisms cleaned by putting them in a little revolving cage immersed in three different liquids.
Then each bearing lubricated afterwards.


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On Sun, 1 Oct 2017 21:09:57 +0100, RJH wrote:

From another newsgroup I have learned that WD40 is a no-no for model
railway locomotives. It apprently works great at first, but then drys a
little, becomes sticky and gather's dust and muck into the mechanism.


That's what I've found - the hard way using it on bikes. Maybe because
the clock's enclosed makes a difference?


Due to lack of anything else, I've used it on mains switches (rocker, pull
and, especially micro). It's also freed up the LH switch on an expensive and
no-longer-available trackball; used it about 5 years ago and, apart from a
bit of mechanical packing due to 10 yeras of wear, it's still OK.
These are, of course, well enclosed and not too exposed to dust.

Disclosu it was actually Tesco Maintenance Spray. Can't imagine what that
might be ;-)
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
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On Sun, 1 Oct 2017 22:26:05 +0100, newshound wrote:

On 01/10/2017 21:02, john.west wrote:
according to NASA WD40 is not a lubricant but a water displacment agent.
ive seen tiny amounts used effectively on squeaky car fan belts.
most oils dry with time.* Tung oil and walnut oil are said not to
degrade very quickly. In guided missiles they use Whale Oil for gyro
lubrication. Or used to.


Many vegetable (and animal) oils "dry", i.e. go solid because of
oxidation and cross-linking, linseed being a particularly good example.
This doesn't happen to the paraffinic hydrocarbons which are normally a
large component of mineral oils, but it may happen to a degree with less
highly refined oils (unsaturated hydrocarbons may also polymerise). If
modern mineral oils appear to "dry out" in service, it is normally
because of simple evaporation.


Apparently almond oil stays liquid. Some other vegetable oils go like
varnish. How about castor oil?
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
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On Monday, October 2, 2017 at 6:40:18 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:
On Saturday, 30 September 2017 19:38:13 UTC+1, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
GB wrote:
On 30/09/2017 16:23, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long
case clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at
work. So he arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism,
checks the weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of
WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds!
And that was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"

I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after
about 3 months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do
that) and it worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock
oil - but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do
that). 12 months later it is still going.



My friend's mother greased the sun roof of her car with butter. She
was terribly proud of having got the better of her garage, who had
wanted to charge her for this. It worked very well, but it was a bit
whiffy. Olive oil would have been a better choice.


I still have my dads H Samuel wrist watch. It must be well over 80 years
old. It still works.
He used take it for cleaning and told me that the watch guy used to suspend
it over a tub of meths and that is what cleaned it.
I've always had doubts about this.


I have seen watch mechanisms cleaned by putting them in a little revolving cage immersed in three different liquids.
Then each bearing lubricated afterwards.


I've heard nasal sebum is the lubricant of choice for watch repairers

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum

As for WD40, I used to use it on my shed padlock, but I needed to use it two or three times a year. Since switching to three-in-one, I've rarely had to reapply it.
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On 02/10/2017 06:40, harry wrote:
On Saturday, 30 September 2017 19:38:13 UTC+1, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
GB wrote:
On 30/09/2017 16:23, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long
case clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at
work. So he arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism,
checks the weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of
WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds!
And that was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"

I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after
about 3 months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do
that) and it worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock
oil - but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do
that). 12 months later it is still going.



My friend's mother greased the sun roof of her car with butter. She
was terribly proud of having got the better of her garage, who had
wanted to charge her for this. It worked very well, but it was a bit
whiffy. Olive oil would have been a better choice.


I still have my dads H Samuel wrist watch. It must be well over 80 years
old. It still works.
He used take it for cleaning and told me that the watch guy used to suspend
it over a tub of meths and that is what cleaned it.
I've always had doubts about this.


I have seen watch mechanisms cleaned by putting them in a little revolving cage immersed in three different liquids.
Then each bearing lubricated afterwards.


May be for a simple watch.

If you look at something like the old Timex watches, which had no
jewels, simple pin pallet escapements etc, you can see that such an
technique would probably work. They were really quite impressive in
there simplicity. My wife had a 'Snoopy' Watch which had a Timex
movement which lasted 35 years or so, it was worn in the garden, doing
house work etc. It was never cleaned etc. Eventually the mainspring gave
up. Her Longines has been repaired at least twice in that time, it
isn't worn for 'rough work' and isn't even her only other watch.







--

Suspect someone is claiming a benefit under false pretences? Incapacity
Benefit or Personal Independence Payment when they don't need it? They
are depriving those in real need!

https://www.gov.uk/report-benefit-fraud
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"Max Demian" wrote in message
...
On 01/10/2017 09:23, Jim GM4DHJ ... wrote:
"newshound" wrote in message
news
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from the
sort of family that would be expected to have very good long case clocks
as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which had
been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock enthusiast.
He
offered to come and set it up after we had installed it where desired.
Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at work. So he arrives, takes
off the hood to expose the mechanism, checks the weights and their
cables
and then gets out the biggest can of WD40 I have ever seen and sprays
the
entire works for about ten seconds! And that was it. It is still going
some ten years later, unlike the ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


http://aprilfool.s3.amazonaws.com/2010wd40_lg.jpg


Well you can get Diesel brand "men's grooming" products. If it smells of
diesel they might as well call it ****.

I liked Tabac ....smelled of fags ...tee hee




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On 01/10/2017 13:03, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sat, 30 Sep 2017 16:02:01 +0100, newshound wrote:

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"


Knew it had to be good for *something*.



It's really good for getting chewing gum out of a toddler's hair...
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In article ,
Steve Walker wrote:
There's no doubt WD40 can make things work that needed lubrication. The
real question is if it is a short or long term fix.


From another newsgroup I have learned that WD40 is a no-no for model
railway locomotives. It apprently works great at first, but then drys a
little, becomes sticky and gather's dust and muck into the mechanism.


Yup.

--
*I don't have a license to kill, but I do have a learner's permit.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On 30/09/2017 19:38, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:

I still have my dads H Samuel wrist watch. It must be well over 80 years
old. It still works.
He used take it for cleaning and told me that the watch guy used to suspend
it over a tub of meths and that is what cleaned it.
I've always had doubts about this.


I've heard that a smear of paraffin inside the back of a watch will keep
the oil in the bearings mobile.

--
Max Demian
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On 02/10/2017 07:25, PeterC wrote:
On Sun, 1 Oct 2017 22:26:05 +0100, newshound wrote:

On 01/10/2017 21:02, john.west wrote:
according to NASA WD40 is not a lubricant but a water displacment agent.
ive seen tiny amounts used effectively on squeaky car fan belts.
most oils dry with time.Â* Tung oil and walnut oil are said not to
degrade very quickly. In guided missiles they use Whale Oil for gyro
lubrication. Or used to.


Many vegetable (and animal) oils "dry", i.e. go solid because of
oxidation and cross-linking, linseed being a particularly good example.
This doesn't happen to the paraffinic hydrocarbons which are normally a
large component of mineral oils, but it may happen to a degree with less
highly refined oils (unsaturated hydrocarbons may also polymerise). If
modern mineral oils appear to "dry out" in service, it is normally
because of simple evaporation.


Apparently almond oil stays liquid. Some other vegetable oils go like
varnish. How about castor oil?

Good old Castrol R, I guess this may have originally been developed for
WW1 aero engines, but much loved by British motorcycle racers of the
1950's and 60's. I believe this was pure castor oil, it was important
not to mix it with mineral oil. It was reckoned to give lower friction
than mineral oils, hence more power at the crankshaft. Certainly the
fatty acids that it contains are very good boundary lubricants. I'm
pretty sure that castor oil readily forms lacquers and varnishes at IC
engine temperatures.

Most vegetable oils are triglycerides, often unsaturated. The double
bonds gives them a tendency to polymerise, this is the reason that
linseed oil can be used to give a durable finish on cricket bats, etc.

Almond and Peanut oils are two which don't "dry", according to Wikipedia.
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On 02/10/2017 07:32, Halmyre wrote:
On Monday, October 2, 2017 at 6:40:18 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:
On Saturday, 30 September 2017 19:38:13 UTC+1, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
GB wrote:
On 30/09/2017 16:23, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long
case clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law, which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at
work. So he arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism,
checks the weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest can of
WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds!
And that was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"

I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after
about 3 months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do
that) and it worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock
oil - but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do
that). 12 months later it is still going.



My friend's mother greased the sun roof of her car with butter. She
was terribly proud of having got the better of her garage, who had
wanted to charge her for this. It worked very well, but it was a bit
whiffy. Olive oil would have been a better choice.

I still have my dads H Samuel wrist watch. It must be well over 80 years
old. It still works.
He used take it for cleaning and told me that the watch guy used to suspend
it over a tub of meths and that is what cleaned it.
I've always had doubts about this.


I have seen watch mechanisms cleaned by putting them in a little revolving cage immersed in three different liquids.
Then each bearing lubricated afterwards.


I've heard nasal sebum is the lubricant of choice for watch repairers

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum


Yes and also from sharks. Presumably the basis of squalene/squalus.


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newshound wrote:
On 02/10/2017 07:25, PeterC wrote:
On Sun, 1 Oct 2017 22:26:05 +0100, newshound wrote:

On 01/10/2017 21:02, john.west wrote:
according to NASA WD40 is not a lubricant but a water displacment
agent.
ive seen tiny amounts used effectively on squeaky car fan belts.
most oils dry with time. Tung oil and walnut oil are said not to
degrade very quickly. In guided missiles they use Whale Oil for gyro
lubrication. Or used to.

Many vegetable (and animal) oils "dry", i.e. go solid because of
oxidation and cross-linking, linseed being a particularly good example.
This doesn't happen to the paraffinic hydrocarbons which are normally a
large component of mineral oils, but it may happen to a degree with less
highly refined oils (unsaturated hydrocarbons may also polymerise). If
modern mineral oils appear to "dry out" in service, it is normally
because of simple evaporation.


Apparently almond oil stays liquid. Some other vegetable oils go like
varnish. How about castor oil?

Good old Castrol R, I guess this may have originally been developed for


Occasionally, a motorbike will go past, and I still recognise that
delicious castor oil smell. We'd put it in the petrol tank claiming
that it was upper cylinder lubricant; but if I'm honest, I think we just
wanted people to notice the smell.

WW1 aero engines, but much loved by British motorcycle racers of the
1950's and 60's. I believe this was pure castor oil, it was important
not to mix it with mineral oil. It was reckoned to give lower friction
than mineral oils, hence more power at the crankshaft. Certainly the
fatty acids that it contains are very good boundary lubricants. I'm
pretty sure that castor oil readily forms lacquers and varnishes at IC
engine temperatures.

Most vegetable oils are triglycerides, often unsaturated. The double
bonds gives them a tendency to polymerise, this is the reason that
linseed oil can be used to give a durable finish on cricket bats, etc.

Almond and Peanut oils are two which don't "dry", according to Wikipedia.


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On Mon, 2 Oct 2017 15:14:33 +0100, newshound wrote:

Many vegetable (and animal) oils "dry", i.e. go solid because of
oxidation and cross-linking, linseed being a particularly good example.
This doesn't happen to the paraffinic hydrocarbons which are normally a
large component of mineral oils, but it may happen to a degree with less
highly refined oils (unsaturated hydrocarbons may also polymerise). If
modern mineral oils appear to "dry out" in service, it is normally
because of simple evaporation.


Apparently almond oil stays liquid. Some other vegetable oils go like
varnish. How about castor oil?

Good old Castrol R, I guess this may have originally been developed for
WW1 aero engines, but much loved by British motorcycle racers of the
1950's and 60's. I believe this was pure castor oil, it was important
not to mix it with mineral oil. It was reckoned to give lower friction
than mineral oils, hence more power at the crankshaft. Certainly the
fatty acids that it contains are very good boundary lubricants. I'm
pretty sure that castor oil readily forms lacquers and varnishes at IC
engine temperatures.


My brother had a Honda 250 in the '70s and used to put a teaspoonful of R in
the fuel tank. When I was cycling home from work he'd go past and I'd sniff
his exhaust!

Most vegetable oils are triglycerides, often unsaturated. The double
bonds gives them a tendency to polymerise, this is the reason that
linseed oil can be used to give a durable finish on cricket bats, etc.


Thanks, that explains it.

Almond and Peanut oils are two which don't "dry", according to Wikipedia.


Peanut butter dries out - I suppose that the palm oil is the culprit.
I intended to get some almond nut butter today but ran out of cash (i.e.
neede the rest for the pub).
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
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On Mon, 2 Oct 2017 15:48:15 +0100, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

Good old Castrol R, I guess this may have originally been developed for


Occasionally, a motorbike will go past, and I still recognise that
delicious castor oil smell. We'd put it in the petrol tank claiming
that it was upper cylinder lubricant; but if I'm honest, I think we just
wanted people to notice the smell.


Oh yes! An aqaintance on the bus today had a couple of Classic Motorcycle
mags. Much reminiscing.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
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PeterC wrote:
On Mon, 2 Oct 2017 15:48:15 +0100, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:

Good old Castrol R, I guess this may have originally been developed for


Occasionally, a motorbike will go past, and I still recognise that
delicious castor oil smell. We'd put it in the petrol tank claiming
that it was upper cylinder lubricant; but if I'm honest, I think we just
wanted people to notice the smell.


Oh yes! An aqaintance on the bus today had a couple of Classic Motorcycle
mags. Much reminiscing.


I had a Tiger Cub, and in the first or second issue of Classic Bike,
they had a picture of one with the caption 'they all sound like that,
sir'. I loved that.
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"Halmyre" wrote in message
...
On Monday, October 2, 2017 at 6:40:18 AM UTC+1, harry wrote:
On Saturday, 30 September 2017 19:38:13 UTC+1, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
GB wrote:
On 30/09/2017 16:23, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote:
newshound wrote:
Posted without comment, but this came from a fellow tribologist
from
the sort of family that would be expected to have very good long
case clocks as heirlooms.

"We inherited an old grandfather clock from my parents-in-law,
which
had been kept going by a local retired engineer who was a clock
enthusiast. He offered to come and set it up after we had installed
it where desired. Ah! I thought, now I shall see an expert at
work. So he arrives, takes off the hood to expose the mechanism,
checks the weights and their cables and then gets out the biggest
can of
WD40 I
have ever seen and sprays the entire works for about ten seconds!
And that was it. It is still going some ten years later, unlike
the
ancient engineer who has recently died.

I am looking at WD40 in a new light!"

I have a 50 year old cuckoo clock that would stop working after
about 3 months. I blasted it with WD40 (you are not supposed to do
that) and it worked for 3 months.
I then blasted it with meths, it worked for 3 months.
I was considering taking it apart, soaking it meths and buying clock
oil - but it was not an expensive clock I suspected wear and tear.
Finally I soaked it with 3 in one oil (you are not supposed to do
that). 12 months later it is still going.



My friend's mother greased the sun roof of her car with butter. She
was terribly proud of having got the better of her garage, who had
wanted to charge her for this. It worked very well, but it was a bit
whiffy. Olive oil would have been a better choice.

I still have my dads H Samuel wrist watch. It must be well over 80
years
old. It still works.
He used take it for cleaning and told me that the watch guy used to
suspend
it over a tub of meths and that is what cleaned it.
I've always had doubts about this.


I have seen watch mechanisms cleaned by putting them in a little
revolving cage immersed in three different liquids.
Then each bearing lubricated afterwards.


I've heard nasal sebum is the lubricant of choice for watch repairers

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nasal_sebum

As for WD40, I used to use it on my shed padlock,
but I needed to use it two or three times a year.
Since switching to three-in-one, I've rarely had to reapply it.


I use powedered graphite and dont need to reapply it.

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