I have to cut a 4mm hollow stainless steel tube that contains 8 fibre
optic cables. I need to remove about 1 metre of the Tube to expose the
Fibres which are 125 microns in dia.

The tubes are normally plastic, and I run a stripping tool around the
tube to score the outer part and then it snaps off with a little bending.

It is in an area that I cannot use any power or Battery tools.

I cannot get to the site until I am to do the job, so I don't know how
much I have to play with to perfect a plan. I cannot obviously damage
any of the fibres within the tube. It is on an Offshore Platform and in
an EX area.

I have though of trying a small file to create a groove around the tube
and then snapping it. Or even a Stanley blade. I can also try my
existing stripping tool, and realise it will be useless after this.

There is apparently a tool for this type of Fibre cable with a stainless
Steel tube, but it is £450, and since this is a one off, and the first
time I have seen this type of tube in 7 years, I do not want to buy it.

Any thoughts on what might work?
--
Yendor

Yendor wrote:

I have to cut a 4mm hollow stainless steel tube

Even if a microbore type tube-cutter could close down as small as 4mm,
don't suppose it'd like stainless ...

Yendor wrote:

I cannot obviously damage any of the fibres within the tube. It is on
an Offshore Platform and in an EX area.
Take one of these with you as a backup plan? should be cheap!

http://www.aurora-optics.com/news/epfs.html

On 8/17/2017 9:10 PM, Andy Burns wrote:
Yendor wrote:

I have to cut a 4mm hollow stainless steel tube

Even if a microbore type tube-cutter could close down as small as 4mm,
don't suppose it'd like stainless ...

+1

Sounds very difficult to me.

4 mm OD or bore? What wall thickness? Do you really mean the fibres are
125 micron diameter, or is that the diameter of the glass which is then
protected by a plastic sleeve. In which case, what's the OD?

Am I right in thinking that the fibres have a free end, so that when you
have cut the tube diametrally in one place, you are sliding your 1 metre
length off over the free end?

Stanley knife blade won't touch it. Triangular file would work, but
pretty slow. Do you have reasonable access?

My first thoughts were something like a cordless dremel, either with a
stone, diamond burr, or reinforced abrasive disk. But evidently you are
not even allowed that.

I assume the £450 tool is something like a plumbers' tube cutter.

Another "gentle" way to attack it might be a very small air-abrasive or
water-abrasive jet. The sort of thing which paleontologists use to
extract fossils from sedimentary rock. But probably not a practical
option here.

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for that
and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be small).

newshound wrote:

Sounds very difficult to me.

If the client has to make such strict demands because of the area the
fibre is in, they presumably expect to pay through the nose for someone
equipped to meet them?

4 mm OD or bore? What wall thickness? Do you really mean the fibres are
125 micron diameter, or is that the diameter of the glass which is then
protected by a plastic sleeve. In which case, what's the OD?

Sounds right for the actual fibre strands, depends if they're loosely or
tightly buffered within the tube, what are the consequences of breaking
any of them?

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for that
and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be small).

Exactly.

On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 21:10:12 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:


Even if a microbore type tube-cutter could close down as small as 4mm,
don't suppose it'd like stainless ...

It'll work on stainless, in principle at least. Recently cut a bit of
thin-walled (1mm or less) stainless using a small Rothenberger cutter
("Minicut"). Like cutting copper, only I used less pressure and many more turns.
Two cuts and the cutting wheel looked fine afterwards. I'd doubt if it would cut
anything with a thick wall, though. Cheap enough to take on and hope, though.

Bewa It will "neck" the tubing, that is, make the ID smaller where it cuts.


Thomas Prufer

Thomas Prufer used his keyboard to write :
It'll work on stainless, in principle at least. Recently cut a bit of
thin-walled (1mm or less) stainless using a small Rothenberger cutter
("Minicut"). Like cutting copper, only I used less pressure and many more
turns.
Two cuts and the cutting wheel looked fine afterwards. I'd doubt if it would
cut
anything with a thick wall, though. Cheap enough to take on and hope, though.

Bewa It will "neck" the tubing, that is, make the ID smaller where it
cuts.

I would not expect the tube to pull off as a single one metre length,
in will need to be done in several sections.

On 8/17/2017 9:57 PM, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 21:10:12 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:


Even if a microbore type tube-cutter could close down as small as 4mm,
don't suppose it'd like stainless ...

It'll work on stainless, in principle at least. Recently cut a bit of
thin-walled (1mm or less) stainless using a small Rothenberger cutter
("Minicut"). Like cutting copper, only I used less pressure and many more turns.
Two cuts and the cutting wheel looked fine afterwards. I'd doubt if it would cut
anything with a thick wall, though. Cheap enough to take on and hope, though.

Bewa It will "neck" the tubing, that is, make the ID smaller where it cuts.


Thomas Prufer


It will also leave a sharp edge on the inside, so great care needed when
"snapping" and subsequent removal of the off-cut. Once removed, I'd slip
a suitable sized sleeve over the fibres and inside the tube.

In fact that gives me an idea, might it be possible to slide in a
metre-long length of sleeve so that you go past the cut point. That
would protect and centralise the fibres at the critical times.
Difficulty is going to be to find something the right size.

On 17/08/2017 22:32, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 9:10 PM, Andy Burns wrote:
Yendor wrote:

I have to cut a 4mm hollow stainless steel tube

Even if a microbore type tube-cutter could close down as small as 4mm,
don't suppose it'd like stainless ...

+1

Sounds very difficult to me.

4 mm OD or bore? What wall thickness? Do you really mean the fibres are
125 micron diameter, or is that the diameter of the glass which is then
protected by a plastic sleeve. In which case, what's the OD?

4mm OD, about 1mm thick. the fibres have a 125 micron OD. This is
including the protective coating on the fibre.

Am I right in thinking that the fibres have a free end, so that when you
have cut the tube diametrally in one place, you are sliding your 1 metre
length off over the free end?

The Fibre has been cut, there are no free ends on cable. I am going to
put free ends on it to repair it.

Stanley knife blade won't touch it. Triangular file would work, but
pretty slow. Do you have reasonable access?

Have yet to see it. Speed is not an Issue, I will have as long as it takes

My first thoughts were something like a cordless dremel, either with a
stone, diamond burr, or reinforced abrasive disk. But evidently you are
not even allowed that.

I assume the £450 tool is something like a plumbers' tube cutter.

Another "gentle" way to attack it might be a very small air-abrasive or
water-abrasive jet. The sort of thing which paleontologists use to
extract fossils from sedimentary rock. But probably not a practical
option here.

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for that
and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


--
Yendor

On 17/08/2017 22:38, Andy Burns wrote:
newshound wrote:

Sounds very difficult to me.

If the client has to make such strict demands because of the area the
fibre is in, they presumably expect to pay through the nose for someone
equipped to meet them?

4 mm OD or bore? What wall thickness? Do you really mean the fibres are
125 micron diameter, or is that the diameter of the glass which is then
protected by a plastic sleeve. In which case, what's the OD?

Sounds right for the actual fibre strands, depends if they're loosely or
tightly buffered within the tube, what are the consequences of breaking
any of them?

Loose tube. I have offered no guarantee on this, as they are unable to
provide enough information. If it doesn't work it will involve pulling
in a new 300m cable.

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for that
and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be small).

Exactly.

This is not an option


--
Yendor

On 8/17/2017 10:01 PM, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Thomas Prufer used his keyboard to write :
It'll work on stainless, in principle at least. Recently cut a bit of
thin-walled (1mm or less) stainless using a small Rothenberger cutter
("Minicut"). Like cutting copper, only I used less pressure and many
more turns.
Two cuts and the cutting wheel looked fine afterwards. I'd doubt if it
would cut
anything with a thick wall, though. Cheap enough to take on and hope,
though.

Bewa It will "neck" the tubing, that is, make the ID smaller where
it cuts.

I would not expect the tube to pull off as a single one metre length, in
will need to be done in several sections.

Yes, excellent point. That makes my "protective sleeve" idea more viable
too.

On 17/08/2017 23:01, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Thomas Prufer used his keyboard to write :
It'll work on stainless, in principle at least. Recently cut a bit of
thin-walled (1mm or less) stainless using a small Rothenberger cutter
("Minicut"). Like cutting copper, only I used less pressure and many
more turns.
Two cuts and the cutting wheel looked fine afterwards. I'd doubt if it
would cut
anything with a thick wall, though. Cheap enough to take on and hope,
though.

Bewa It will "neck" the tubing, that is, make the ID smaller where
it cuts.

I would not expect the tube to pull off as a single one metre length, in
will need to be done in several sections.

They do, The fibre Cable is called loose tube, and they lay inside the
tube with some water repellent gel inside. Fibre is quite strong if
handled correctly.

--
Yendor

On 17/08/2017 23:08, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 9:57 PM, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 21:10:12 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:


Even if a microbore type tube-cutter could close down as small as 4mm,
don't suppose it'd like stainless ...

It'll work on stainless, in principle at least. Recently cut a bit of
thin-walled (1mm or less) stainless using a small Rothenberger cutter
("Minicut"). Like cutting copper, only I used less pressure and many
more turns.
Two cuts and the cutting wheel looked fine afterwards. I'd doubt if it
would cut
anything with a thick wall, though. Cheap enough to take on and hope,
though.

Bewa It will "neck" the tubing, that is, make the ID smaller where
it cuts.


Thomas Prufer


It will also leave a sharp edge on the inside, so great care needed when
"snapping" and subsequent removal of the off-cut. Once removed, I'd slip
a suitable sized sleeve over the fibres and inside the tube.

In fact that gives me an idea, might it be possible to slide in a
metre-long length of sleeve so that you go past the cut point. That
would protect and centralise the fibres at the critical times.
Difficulty is going to be to find something the right size.
As well as the fibres there is some gel inside the tube. Once the tube
pulls off, The gel wipes off with IPA.

--
Yendor

On 8/17/2017 10:16 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 22:32, newshound wrote:

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

On 17/08/2017 23:23, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:16 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 22:32, newshound wrote:

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.

--
Yendor

Yendor wrote:

The client is aware of the risks.

If it goes wrong is there any risk to oil/gas production on the platform
or others connected to it? Does the risk fall to them or you? You
might want indemnity insurance that could cope with several £million/day
of lost revenue ...

On 8/17/2017 10:25 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:23, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:16 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 22:32, newshound wrote:

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.


Can you get hold of a similar bit of tube to practice on before you go
offshore?

I agree that cutter looks a good possible option, if you don't have a
chance to practice I would take two or three with you. The cutting disks
are *very* hard, and consequently brittle. I have known them to chip
even on copper.

On 17/08/2017 22:40, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:25 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:23, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:16 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 22:32, newshound wrote:

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.


Can you get hold of a similar bit of tube to practice on before you go
offshore?

I agree that cutter looks a good possible option, if you don't have a
chance to practice I would take two or three with you. The cutting disks
are *very* hard, and consequently brittle. I have known them to chip
even on copper.

Don't forget that tube cutters like that compress the tube a bit and
leave burrs on the inside which will damage the fibre if there is any
movement.

On 17/08/2017 21:00, Yendor wrote:
I have to cut a 4mm hollow stainless steel tube that contains 8 fibre
optic cables. I need to remove about 1 metre of the Tube to expose the
Fibres which are 125 microns in dia.

The tubes are normally plastic, and I run a stripping tool around the
tube to score the outer part and then it snaps off with a little bending.

It is in an area that I cannot use any power or Battery tools.

I cannot get to the site until I am to do the job, so I don't know how
much I have to play with to perfect a plan. I cannot obviously damage
any of the fibres within the tube. It is on an Offshore Platform and in
an EX area.

I have though of trying a small file to create a groove around the tube
and then snapping it. Or even a Stanley blade. I can also try my
existing stripping tool, and realise it will be useless after this.

There is apparently a tool for this type of Fibre cable with a stainless
Steel tube, but it is £450, and since this is a one off, and the first
time I have seen this type of tube in 7 years, I do not want to buy it.

Any thoughts on what might work?

Hiring the right cutter seems the best bet.

I would expect a standard microbore cutter go down to the right size, if
necessary with modification.

I would also carry out some trials beforehand on the same stainless
pipe, ideally the same including fibres, perhaps a sample?

Next problem is the possible necking of the pipe and the sharp edge that
can cut the fibre, how does the 'proper' tool overcome this problem? Is
there an internal sleeve you can use to protect the fibre or a tool that
can swell the end of the tube?

If it wasn't for the gel perhaps use Woods metal or less toxic
alternative to stop the tube collapsing?

On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 23:25:39 +0200, Yendor wrote:



Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.

I've got a couple of those knocking around , mainly used on brass for
model making but have used them on SS in the past .

May work ? not the most accurate tool, Ok if you have another bit of
tube to have another go with which you won't and the cut ends are
almost always slightly smaller than the tube . .
To be honest using a tool that cost less a pint of beer on what sounds
like a fairly delicate task looks to be penny pinching too far.
In fact I wonder if your being serious or spinning this group a yarn,
giving you the benefit of doubt
would you be better off with the smallest one on this list
https://www.ridgid.eu/gb/en/stainles...tubing-cutters.

Costs around £65 which is a lot more than the ebay cheapy but a lot
less than the £450 you were talking about.

G.Harman

Tube cutter?.
The ones that run around the tube, obviously. What sort of stainless is
it, you make it sound like something special.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
Remember, if you don't like where I post
or what I say, you don't have to
read my posts! :-)
"Yendor" wrote in message
news
I have to cut a 4mm hollow stainless steel tube that contains 8 fibre optic
cables. I need to remove about 1 metre of the Tube to expose the Fibres
which are 125 microns in dia.

The tubes are normally plastic, and I run a stripping tool around the tube
to score the outer part and then it snaps off with a little bending.

It is in an area that I cannot use any power or Battery tools.

I cannot get to the site until I am to do the job, so I don't know how
much I have to play with to perfect a plan. I cannot obviously damage any
of the fibres within the tube. It is on an Offshore Platform and in an EX
area.

I have though of trying a small file to create a groove around the tube
and then snapping it. Or even a Stanley blade. I can also try my existing
stripping tool, and realise it will be useless after this.

There is apparently a tool for this type of Fibre cable with a stainless
Steel tube, but it is £450, and since this is a one off, and the first
time I have seen this type of tube in 7 years, I do not want to buy it.

Any thoughts on what might work?
--
Yendor

Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:23, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:16 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 22:32, newshound wrote:

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.


Personally I'd be wary of any "compressive" cutter as it may cause
"necking" and damage the fibres. Is there any chance of getting a sample to
experiment on before you fly out? A sharp triangular file to weaken the
tube and then snapping it would be safer I reckon.

You can buy 4mm stainless steel tube on eBay to practice on. Dunno if it
has the same wall thickness though. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152532996048




Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 17/08/2017 23:06, Fredxxx wrote:

Next problem is the possible necking of the pipe and the sharp edge that
can cut the fibre, how does the 'proper' tool overcome this problem? Is
there an internal sleeve you can use to protect the fibre or a tool that
can swell the end of the tube?

You can reduce the necking by keeping the pressure on the tool to the
minimum necessary to get it to cut at all. It then takes many many turns
to get a cut completed. The OP may have the patience for that. I know I
wouldn't.

Also, take some spare cutting wheels.

Would some of this (3mm ID) be worth taking along to make a sleeve after
cutting?

On 18/08/2017 09:07, GB wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:06, Fredxxx wrote:

Next problem is the possible necking of the pipe and the sharp edge that
can cut the fibre, how does the 'proper' tool overcome this problem? Is
there an internal sleeve you can use to protect the fibre or a tool that
can swell the end of the tube?

You can reduce the necking by keeping the pressure on the tool to the
minimum necessary to get it to cut at all. It then takes many many turns
to get a cut completed. The OP may have the patience for that. I know I
wouldn't.

Also, take some spare cutting wheels.

Would some of this (3mm ID) be worth taking along to make a sleeve after
cutting?


Oh, and a better quality cutter won't wander!

newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:25 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:23, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:16 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 22:32, newshound wrote:

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.


Can you get hold of a similar bit of tube to practice on before you go
offshore?

I agree that cutter looks a good possible option, if you don't have a
chance to practice I would take two or three with you. The cutting disks
are *very* hard, and consequently brittle. I have known them to chip
even on copper.
You would be better off to try and score and snap rather than experiment
with tube cutters which will deform the tube you may not be far off with
the stanley knife option, a stanley knife or snap blade is often harder
than a lot of stainless.

On 8/18/2017 1:03 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 23:25:39 +0200, Yendor wrote:



Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.

I've got a couple of those knocking around , mainly used on brass for
model making but have used them on SS in the past .

May work ? not the most accurate tool, Ok if you have another bit of
tube to have another go with which you won't and the cut ends are
almost always slightly smaller than the tube . .
To be honest using a tool that cost less a pint of beer on what sounds
like a fairly delicate task looks to be penny pinching too far.
In fact I wonder if your being serious or spinning this group a yarn,
giving you the benefit of doubt
would you be better off with the smallest one on this list
https://www.ridgid.eu/gb/en/stainles...tubing-cutters.

Costs around £65 which is a lot more than the ebay cheapy but a lot
less than the £450 you were talking about.

G.Harman

+1, I was going to suggest searching wider than eBay. The only downside
of that one is that you need several inches of clearance all round in
order to swing it, the eBay one was much more compact.

On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 22:00:26 +0200, Yendor wrote:


There is apparently a tool for this type of Fibre cable with a stainless
Steel tube, but it is £450, and since this is a one off, and the first
time I have seen this type of tube in 7 years, I do not want to buy it.

Any thoughts on what might work?

Any of these with the appropriate steel cutting blade?

https://www.transtools.co.uk/hand-to...utter-3mm-30mm

http://www.pipetoolsdirect.co.uk/sho...er-3-42mm.html

http://www.tubela.com/prod/pipe-tube...mm-tube-cutter

I've cut a fair amount of small diameter stainless steel pipe with
these types of roller cutter and as long as the right cutting wheel is
used it isn't too much hassle - it just takes a lot longer than
cutting copper does. You are left with a small burr on the inside
which can be removed with a small diamond file.

On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 22:57:29 +0200, Thomas Prufer
wrote:

Bewa It will "neck" the tubing, that is, make the ID smaller where it cuts.

Note: I reduced necking by using less pressure and more turns...

I'd not get the ebay special, but something with a bit more assured quality,
like the Rothenberger.


Thomas Prufer

On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 09:07:11 +0100, GB wrote:

You can reduce the necking by keeping the pressure on the tool to the
minimum necessary to get it to cut at all. It then takes many many turns
to get a cut completed.

Wot e said.

The OP may have the patience for that. I know I
wouldn't.

Not really a problem, if there is access. It doesn't need to gor round and
round, back and fortha lso works, assuming mre than 360° coverage.


Thomas Prufer

On 17/08/2017 23:37, Andy Burns wrote:
If it goes wrong is there any risk to oil/gas production on the platform
or others connected to it? Does the risk fall to them or you? You
might want indemnity insurance that could cope with several £million/day
of lost revenue ...

There is no risk, it is not working currently. If I cannot fix it, it
will be in the same state it is now. I have offshore Indemnity
Insurance. It is not a system critical link. The fibre was damaged some
months ago, when I quoted for it. The never went ahead at the time, due
to costs. Now they would like me to attempt a repair. Then test the
cable, as they think it might be broken in other places.

They don't want to replace end to end, if I can effect a repair. I
believe it is operating a CCTV camera.

--
Yendor

On 18/08/2017 00:00, dennis@home wrote:
On 17/08/2017 22:40, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:25 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:23, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:16 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 22:32, newshound wrote:

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go
for that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will
not be small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.


Can you get hold of a similar bit of tube to practice on before you go
offshore?

I agree that cutter looks a good possible option, if you don't have a
chance to practice I would take two or three with you. The cutting
disks are *very* hard, and consequently brittle. I have known them to
chip even on copper.

Don't forget that tube cutters like that compress the tube a bit and
leave burrs on the inside which will damage the fibre if there is any
movement.


I plan in inserting a PVC tube about 2 inches up the Stainless steel
tube to guard against this.

--
Yendor

On 18/08/2017 02:03, wrote:
On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 23:25:39 +0200, Yendor wrote:



Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.

I've got a couple of those knocking around , mainly used on brass for
model making but have used them on SS in the past .

May work ? not the most accurate tool, Ok if you have another bit of
tube to have another go with which you won't and the cut ends are
almost always slightly smaller than the tube . .
I am hoping there is some spare length at the damaged end, so I can Try
before cutting back to the gland.

To be honest using a tool that cost less a pint of beer on what sounds
like a fairly delicate task looks to be penny pinching too far.
The expensive tool is not always the best option. This is a one time
job. The one the manufacture recommends and sells is no differnt to
this, apart from it carrys a logo, is made of stainless steel and cost
£450. This is the one they recommend.
https://www.aflglobal.com/productionFiles/resources/Conductor-Accessories/AFL-Fiber-Optic-Hardware-Tools.pdf

In fact I wonder if your being serious or spinning this group a yarn,
giving you the benefit of doubt
Why on earth would I make this up? I don't see your point?

would you be better off with the smallest one on this list
https://www.ridgid.eu/gb/en/stainles...tubing-cutters.

Costs around £65 which is a lot more than the ebay cheapy but a lot
less than the £450 you were talking about.

I seen that one, it only goes down to 5mm.

G.Harman


--
Yendor

On 18/08/2017 08:14, Tim+ wrote:
Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:23, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:16 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 22:32, newshound wrote:

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.


Personally I'd be wary of any "compressive" cutter as it may cause
"necking" and damage the fibres. Is there any chance of getting a sample to
experiment on before you fly out? A sharp triangular file to weaken the
tube and then snapping it would be safer I reckon.

You can buy 4mm stainless steel tube on eBay to practice on. Dunno if it
has the same wall thickness though. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152532996048




Tim

They won't cut a bit off, I have asked. Its like getting blood out of a
stone, getting any information. That is why I have gave them a quote,
with the understanding I cannot guarantee I will be able to repair
without pictures and more information.
Because I am dealing via someone at the Platforms office, I don't think
The platform want to admit how much spare I have to work with. Any less
than about 300mm, and it makes it almost impossible to get the fibre
cleaver in, to square off the end before re termination.

--
Yendor

On 18/08/2017 10:25, GB wrote:
On 18/08/2017 09:07, GB wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:06, Fredxxx wrote:

Next problem is the possible necking of the pipe and the sharp edge that
can cut the fibre, how does the 'proper' tool overcome this problem? Is
there an internal sleeve you can use to protect the fibre or a tool that
can swell the end of the tube?

You can reduce the necking by keeping the pressure on the tool to the
minimum necessary to get it to cut at all. It then takes many many turns
to get a cut completed. The OP may have the patience for that. I know I
wouldn't.

Also, take some spare cutting wheels.

Would some of this (3mm ID) be worth taking along to make a sleeve after
cutting?


Oh, and a better quality cutter won't wander!
I cannot find one that goes down to 3mm apart from the £3 ebay one and
the £450 manufacturer's recommended one!

--
Yendor

On 18/08/2017 13:00, Peter Parry wrote:
On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 22:00:26 +0200, Yendor wrote:


There is apparently a tool for this type of Fibre cable with a stainless
Steel tube, but it is £450, and since this is a one off, and the first
time I have seen this type of tube in 7 years, I do not want to buy it.

Any thoughts on what might work?

Any of these with the appropriate steel cutting blade?

https://www.transtools.co.uk/hand-to...utter-3mm-30mm

http://www.pipetoolsdirect.co.uk/sho...er-3-42mm.html

http://www.tubela.com/prod/pipe-tube...mm-tube-cutter

I've cut a fair amount of small diameter stainless steel pipe with
these types of roller cutter and as long as the right cutting wheel is
used it isn't too much hassle - it just takes a lot longer than
cutting copper does. You are left with a small burr on the inside
which can be removed with a small diamond file.


Cheers, I will order the Rothenberger one, that seems a decent tool.
Still going to take the ebay ones.

--
Yendor

On 18/08/2017 14:40, Yendor wrote:
On 18/08/2017 10:25, GB wrote:
On 18/08/2017 09:07, GB wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:06, Fredxxx wrote:

Next problem is the possible necking of the pipe and the sharp edge
that
can cut the fibre, how does the 'proper' tool overcome this problem? Is
there an internal sleeve you can use to protect the fibre or a tool
that
can swell the end of the tube?

You can reduce the necking by keeping the pressure on the tool to the
minimum necessary to get it to cut at all. It then takes many many turns
to get a cut completed. The OP may have the patience for that. I know I
wouldn't.

Also, take some spare cutting wheels.

Would some of this (3mm ID) be worth taking along to make a sleeve after
cutting?


Oh, and a better quality cutter won't wander!
I cannot find one that goes down to 3mm apart from the £3 ebay one and
the £450 manufacturer's recommended one!

I did a google search for tube cutter 3mm and came up with a few hits.

This one looks better:

http://www.builderdepot.co.uk/draper...0580-tc28.html

Or one designed for 3mm stainless steel tube at £24:

https://www.transtools.co.uk/hand-to...utter-3mm-30mm

Certainly not £450

On 18/08/2017 15:56, Fredxxx wrote:
On 18/08/2017 14:40, Yendor wrote:
On 18/08/2017 10:25, GB wrote:
On 18/08/2017 09:07, GB wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:06, Fredxxx wrote:

Next problem is the possible necking of the pipe and the sharp edge
that
can cut the fibre, how does the 'proper' tool overcome this
problem? Is
there an internal sleeve you can use to protect the fibre or a tool
that
can swell the end of the tube?

You can reduce the necking by keeping the pressure on the tool to the
minimum necessary to get it to cut at all. It then takes many many
turns
to get a cut completed. The OP may have the patience for that. I know I
wouldn't.

Also, take some spare cutting wheels.

Would some of this (3mm ID) be worth taking along to make a sleeve
after
cutting?


Oh, and a better quality cutter won't wander!
I cannot find one that goes down to 3mm apart from the £3 ebay one and
the £450 manufacturer's recommended one!

I did a google search for tube cutter 3mm and came up with a few hits.

This one looks better:

http://www.builderdepot.co.uk/draper...0580-tc28.html


Or one designed for 3mm stainless steel tube at £24:

https://www.transtools.co.uk/hand-to...utter-3mm-30mm


Certainly not £450
Yep, i have ordered the Rothenberger one also, as mentioned by Peter Parry.

--
Yendor

On 18/08/2017 09:43, FMurtz wrote:
newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:25 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 23:23, newshound wrote:
On 8/17/2017 10:16 PM, Yendor wrote:
On 17/08/2017 22:32, newshound wrote:

Not a job I would fancy. If there is a "proper" tool I would go for
that and just factor it into the price (which I assume will not be
small).

I would not have won the job if I added £450 to the quote.


Bit of a gamble, then. Hope it comes off!

The client is aware of the risks. I have found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272253178805
may work.


Can you get hold of a similar bit of tube to practice on before you go
offshore?

I agree that cutter looks a good possible option, if you don't have a
chance to practice I would take two or three with you. The cutting disks
are *very* hard, and consequently brittle. I have known them to chip
even on copper.
You would be better off to try and score and snap rather than experiment
with tube cutters which will deform the tube you may not be far off with
the stanley knife option, a stanley knife or snap blade is often harder
than a lot of stainless.

Or use the tool he is proposing with the addition of old-fashioned
engine valve-grinding paste with minimal pressure, to score a
snap line around the tube.

On 17/08/17 21:00, Yendor wrote:
I have to cut a 4mm hollow stainless steel tube that contains 8 fibre
optic cables. I need to remove about 1 metre of the Tube to expose the
Fibres which are 125 microns in dia.

The tubes are normally plastic, and I run a stripping tool around the
tube to score the outer part and then it snaps off with a little bending.

It is in an area that I cannot use any power or Battery tools.

I cannot get to the site until I am to do the job, so I don't know how
much I have to play with to perfect a plan. I cannot obviously damage
any of the fibres within the tube. It is on an Offshore Platform and in
an EX area.

I have though of trying a small file to create a groove around the tube
and then snapping it. Or even a Stanley blade. I can also try my
existing stripping tool, and realise it will be useless after this.

A diamond file perhaps? Might be worth asking in a jewellery forum,
folks there might be used to working with close metal removal techniques.

--
Adrian C

On 18/08/2017 14:51, Yendor wrote:
On 18/08/2017 13:00, Peter Parry wrote:
On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 22:00:26 +0200, Yendor wrote:


There is apparently a tool for this type of Fibre cable with a stainless
Steel tube, but it is £450, and since this is a one off, and the first
time I have seen this type of tube in 7 years, I do not want to buy it.

Any thoughts on what might work?

Any of these with the appropriate steel cutting blade?

https://www.transtools.co.uk/hand-to...utter-3mm-30mm


http://www.pipetoolsdirect.co.uk/sho...er-3-42mm.html


http://www.tubela.com/prod/pipe-tube...mm-tube-cutter


I've cut a fair amount of small diameter stainless steel pipe with
these types of roller cutter and as long as the right cutting wheel is
used it isn't too much hassle - it just takes a lot longer than
cutting copper does. You are left with a small burr on the inside
which can be removed with a small diamond file.


Cheers, I will order the Rothenberger one, that seems a decent tool.
Still going to take the ebay ones.


Take some photos of the rig and the job and post them here !.