It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?

Colin Bignell

"Nightjar" wrote in message
...


It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?



Nope...... But if you don't need structural strength as opposed to looking
pretty there are a myriad of adhesives that might do as good a job

On 28/05/2014 18:34, Nthkentman wrote:
"Nightjar" wrote in message
...


It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?



Nope...... But if you don't need structural strength as opposed to
looking pretty there are a myriad of adhesives that might do as good a job


Araldite comes to mind here, but there maybe something better on the
market nowadays.

On 28/05/2014 18:34, Nthkentman wrote:
"Nightjar" wrote in message
...


It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?



Nope......

Thanks. I thought I'd ask in case I had missed some development. I'd not
heard of MAPP gas until it was mentioned in a thread on here.

But if you don't need structural strength as opposed to
looking pretty there are a myriad of adhesives that might do as good a job

Strength is needed. It is to join the cylinder on the right of this:

http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/pi...S600-000C.html

to the main body. The whole of the body hangs off the joint when the
screen is in place on the end of a pipe - 6" bore pipe in this case,
although there is also a longer 8" version.

Colin Bignell

On 28/05/2014 19:52, Bob H wrote:
On 28/05/2014 18:34, Nthkentman wrote:
"Nightjar" wrote in message
...


It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?



Nope...... But if you don't need structural strength as opposed to
looking pretty there are a myriad of adhesives that might do as good a
job


Araldite comes to mind here, but there maybe something better on the
market nowadays.

Wrong sort of joint. The adhesive could be subjected to a peel stress,
which epoxy adhesives are not very good at resisting.

Colin Bignell

On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:25:34 +0100, Nightjar wrote:

Strength is needed. It is to join the cylinder on the right of this:

http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/pi...S600-000C.html

to the main body. The whole of the body hangs off the joint when the
screen is in place on the end of a pipe - 6" bore pipe in this case,
although there is also a longer 8" version.

Does it have to be welded? Could a flange be formed on the pipe and
stainless nuts/bolts used to join it to the filter?

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:40:59 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

Wrong sort of joint. The adhesive could be subjected to a peel stress,
which epoxy adhesives are not very good at resisting.

In which case use a more suitable adhesive, maybe polyurethane using rivets to
resist peel, incorporating some means of maintaining a consistent adhesive
thickness with a spacer or formed bead.

--

On 28/05/2014 23:05, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:25:34 +0100, Nightjar wrote:

Strength is needed. It is to join the cylinder on the right of this:

http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/pi...S600-000C.html

to the main body. The whole of the body hangs off the joint when the
screen is in place on the end of a pipe - 6" bore pipe in this case,
although there is also a longer 8" version.

Does it have to be welded? Could a flange be formed on the pipe and
stainless nuts/bolts used to join it to the filter?


The current system is to make a series of cuts along one edge of the
cylinder, fold those out to form a flange and solder the whole lot
together. However, that is incredibly tedious and time-consuming. Hence,
I thought of making a series of short welds around the join, for
strength, and finishing off with solder, to seal the join. Sealing the
join is important, as it is an insect screen and it cannot have any
holes larger than 57 microns.

Colin Bignell

Making a high speed jet fighter over there then?
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Nightjar" wrote in message
...

It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?

Colin Bignell

On 28/05/2014 23:50, Brian Gaff wrote:
Making a high speed jet fighter over there then?
Brian


Insect screens to go on the overflow and warning pipes for water supplies.

Colin Bignell

On 28/05/2014 23:19, Mini Me wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:40:59 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

Wrong sort of joint. The adhesive could be subjected to a peel stress,
which epoxy adhesives are not very good at resisting.

In which case use a more suitable adhesive, maybe polyurethane using rivets to
resist peel, incorporating some means of maintaining a consistent adhesive
thickness with a spacer or formed bead.

Riveting would be more work than I have to do now, which is not the
idea. I am also limited by the equipment that the chap who makes the
parts for me has, which rules out any formed flanges or beads, or
indeed, any type of re-design.

Colin Bignell

Nightjar wrote:
On 28/05/2014 23:05, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:25:34 +0100, Nightjar wrote:

Strength is needed. It is to join the cylinder on the right of this:

http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/pi...S600-000C.html

to the main body. The whole of the body hangs off the joint when the
screen is in place on the end of a pipe - 6" bore pipe in this case,
although there is also a longer 8" version.

Does it have to be welded? Could a flange be formed on the pipe and
stainless nuts/bolts used to join it to the filter?


The current system is to make a series of cuts along one edge of the
cylinder, fold those out to form a flange and solder the whole lot
together. However, that is incredibly tedious and time-consuming. Hence,
I thought of making a series of short welds around the join, for
strength, and finishing off with solder, to seal the join. Sealing the
join is important, as it is an insect screen and it cannot have any
holes larger than 57 microns.

Colin Bignell


You can silver solder stainless.

On 28/05/2014 23:27, Nightjar wrote:

The current system is to make a series of cuts along one edge of the
cylinder, fold those out to form a flange and solder the whole lot
together. However, that is incredibly tedious and time-consuming. Hence,
I thought of making a series of short welds around the join, for
strength, and finishing off with solder, to seal the join. Sealing the
join is important, as it is an insect screen and it cannot have any
holes larger than 57 microns.

Colin Bignell



The holes in the side are a lot bigger than 57 microns, is there
something inside that you have to join to?

In message , Nightjar
writes
On 28/05/2014 23:05, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:25:34 +0100, Nightjar wrote:

Strength is needed. It is to join the cylinder on the right of this:

http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/pi...S600-000C.html

to the main body. The whole of the body hangs off the joint when the
screen is in place on the end of a pipe - 6" bore pipe in this case,
although there is also a longer 8" version.

Does it have to be welded? Could a flange be formed on the pipe and
stainless nuts/bolts used to join it to the filter?


The current system is to make a series of cuts along one edge of the
cylinder, fold those out to form a flange and solder the whole lot
together. However, that is incredibly tedious and time-consuming.
Hence, I thought of making a series of short welds around the join, for
strength, and finishing off with solder, to seal the join. Sealing the
join is important, as it is an insect screen and it cannot have any
holes larger than 57 microns.

Sleeve and rivet?

Cut a short length off your pipe. Cut across that to form an open band.
Butt the pipes together. Glue and or rivet the band over the top to form
a join?

I've not seen them but I assume you can get stainless *pop* rivets.

--
Tim Lamb

On 29/05/2014 05:33, F Murtz wrote:
Nightjar wrote:
On 28/05/2014 23:05, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:25:34 +0100, Nightjar wrote:

Strength is needed. It is to join the cylinder on the right of this:

http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/pi...S600-000C.html

to the main body. The whole of the body hangs off the joint when the
screen is in place on the end of a pipe - 6" bore pipe in this case,
although there is also a longer 8" version.

Does it have to be welded? Could a flange be formed on the pipe and
stainless nuts/bolts used to join it to the filter?


The current system is to make a series of cuts along one edge of the
cylinder, fold those out to form a flange and solder the whole lot
together. However, that is incredibly tedious and time-consuming. Hence,
I thought of making a series of short welds around the join, for
strength, and finishing off with solder, to seal the join. Sealing the
join is important, as it is an insect screen and it cannot have any
holes larger than 57 microns.

Colin Bignell


You can silver solder stainless.

True, but there are already some problems with heat distortion when soft
soldering. Part of what I hope to achieve is to lock the two parts
together with the stitch welds, to reduce that.

Colin Bignell

On 29/05/2014 08:26, dennis@home wrote:
On 28/05/2014 23:27, Nightjar wrote:

The current system is to make a series of cuts along one edge of the
cylinder, fold those out to form a flange and solder the whole lot
together. However, that is incredibly tedious and time-consuming. Hence,
I thought of making a series of short welds around the join, for
strength, and finishing off with solder, to seal the join. Sealing the
join is important, as it is an insect screen and it cannot have any
holes larger than 57 microns.


The holes in the side are a lot bigger than 57 microns, is there
something inside that you have to join to?

The outer skin has two layers; the perforated metal for strength and a
fine wire mesh inside that, which is the actual insect screen.

Colin Bignell

On 29/05/2014 08:48, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Nightjar
writes
On 28/05/2014 23:05, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:25:34 +0100, Nightjar wrote:

Strength is needed. It is to join the cylinder on the right of this:

http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/pi...S600-000C.html

to the main body. The whole of the body hangs off the joint when the
screen is in place on the end of a pipe - 6" bore pipe in this case,
although there is also a longer 8" version.

Does it have to be welded? Could a flange be formed on the pipe and
stainless nuts/bolts used to join it to the filter?


The current system is to make a series of cuts along one edge of the
cylinder, fold those out to form a flange and solder the whole lot
together. However, that is incredibly tedious and time-consuming.
Hence, I thought of making a series of short welds around the join,
for strength, and finishing off with solder, to seal the join. Sealing
the join is important, as it is an insect screen and it cannot have
any holes larger than 57 microns.

Sleeve and rivet?

Cut a short length off your pipe. Cut across that to form an open band.
Butt the pipes together. Glue and or rivet the band over the top to form
a join?

I've not seen them but I assume you can get stainless *pop* rivets.

I'm trying to make less work for myself, rather than more :-)

Colin Bignell

On 28/05/2014 18:11, Nightjar wrote:

It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?

Colin Bignell

You probably need a welder (person) rather than a welder (machine)

:-)

On 29/05/2014 10:01, newshound wrote:
On 28/05/2014 18:11, Nightjar wrote:

It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?

Colin Bignell

You probably need a welder (person) rather than a welder (machine)

:-)

I mean TIG of course. I used to know a maestro who, I think, could have
done it easily.

On 29/05/2014 10:01, newshound wrote:
On 28/05/2014 18:11, Nightjar wrote:

It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?


You probably need a welder (person) rather than a welder (machine)

:-)

Are you suggesting that there is a gadget that I don't need? :-)

Colin Bignell

On 29/05/2014 15:18, Nightjar wrote:
On 29/05/2014 10:01, newshound wrote:
On 28/05/2014 18:11, Nightjar wrote:

It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?


You probably need a welder (person) rather than a welder (machine)

:-)

Are you suggesting that there is a gadget that I don't need? :-)

Colin Bignell

Perish the thought! I'd love to have a go at TIG myself, but I very
seldom need welding and it is definitely one process where skill
matters; however much practice you have there are rare artists who make
it look beautiful. And I suspect 26 gauge might be close to the limit
for manual welding.

On Wednesday, May 28, 2014 6:11:31 PM UTC+1, Nightjar wrote:
It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?

When I was getting something like this done (it was a nickel alloy rather than stainless but I don't think that was particularly the problem) I remember we sent it away to someone who used a laser welder to do an excellent job. Unfortunately that's probably too big and expensive a toy to justify for DIY!

Some years previous to that I'd had a thin stainless tube welded to a disk in our university Engineering Department workshops - I remember they made a fine job of one using (I assume) TIG welding, but after the first one they seemed to lose the knack - none of the subsequent ones were nearly as good....

On 29/05/2014 19:05, wrote:
On Wednesday, May 28, 2014 6:11:31 PM UTC+1, Nightjar wrote:
It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?

When I was getting something like this done (it was a nickel alloy rather than stainless but I don't think that was particularly the problem) I remember we sent it away to someone who used a laser welder to do an excellent job. Unfortunately that's probably too big and expensive a toy to justify for DIY!

ISTR it was rather too expensive an option when I was still running a
business that did its own metal manufacturing. There is also the problem
that, as laser welding doesn't use a filler, everything has to fit
together very closely, which isn't likely in this case.

Some years previous to that I'd had a thin stainless tube welded to a disk in our university Engineering Department workshops - I remember they made a fine job of one using (I assume) TIG welding, but after the first one they seemed to lose the knack - none of the subsequent ones were nearly as good...

One reason I do the soldering on these myself is that the chap who used
to do it for me was sending back some really quite poor work. He has
subsequently stopped doing any soldering, supposedly because of the cost
of proper fume extraction, although I suspect it is also because he no
longer has anybody who can do it properly.

Colin Bignell

On 29/05/2014 20:45, Nightjar wrote:
On 29/05/2014 19:05, wrote:
On Wednesday, May 28, 2014 6:11:31 PM UTC+1, Nightjar wrote:
It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

Any welders to prefer or to avoid?

When I was getting something like this done (it was a nickel alloy
rather than stainless but I don't think that was particularly the
problem) I remember we sent it away to someone who used a laser welder
to do an excellent job. Unfortunately that's probably too big and
expensive a toy to justify for DIY!

ISTR it was rather too expensive an option when I was still running a
business that did its own metal manufacturing. There is also the problem
that, as laser welding doesn't use a filler, everything has to fit
together very closely, which isn't likely in this case.

Some years previous to that I'd had a thin stainless tube welded to a
disk in our university Engineering Department workshops - I remember
they made a fine job of one using (I assume) TIG welding, but after
the first one they seemed to lose the knack - none of the subsequent
ones were nearly as good...

One reason I do the soldering on these myself is that the chap who used
to do it for me was sending back some really quite poor work. He has
subsequently stopped doing any soldering, supposedly because of the cost
of proper fume extraction, although I suspect it is also because he no
longer has anybody who can do it properly.

Colin Bignell


The mention of laser reminds me that electron beam welding is of course
the other way to go!

On balance I like the idea of tack welding with TIG followed up by
sealing with soft solder.

On 29/05/2014 22:03, newshound wrote:
....
The mention of laser reminds me that electron beam welding is of course
the other way to go!

On balance I like the idea of tack welding with TIG followed up by
sealing with soft solder.

Me too :-)

Colin Bignell

On Thu, 29 May 2014 00:30:40 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

On 28/05/2014 23:19, Mini Me wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:40:59 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

Wrong sort of joint. The adhesive could be subjected to a peel stress,
which epoxy adhesives are not very good at resisting.

In which case use a more suitable adhesive, maybe polyurethane using rivets to
resist peel, incorporating some means of maintaining a consistent adhesive
thickness with a spacer or formed bead.

Riveting would be more work than I have to do now, which is not the
idea. I am also limited by the equipment that the chap who makes the
parts for me has, which rules out any formed flanges or beads, or
indeed, any type of re-design.

You seem to be limiting your manufacturing process to the capabilities of one
subcontractor (person?) rather than designing for efficient manufacture, a
'series of cuts along one edge of the cylinder, fold those out to form a flange
and solder the whole lot together' on the face of it sounds like a extremely
time consuming bodge.

I notice that the smaller screen sizes appear at first glance to have formed end
plates


--

On 30/05/2014 13:53, Mini Me wrote:
On Thu, 29 May 2014 00:30:40 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

On 28/05/2014 23:19, Mini Me wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:40:59 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

Wrong sort of joint. The adhesive could be subjected to a peel stress,
which epoxy adhesives are not very good at resisting.

In which case use a more suitable adhesive, maybe polyurethane using rivets to
resist peel, incorporating some means of maintaining a consistent adhesive
thickness with a spacer or formed bead.

Riveting would be more work than I have to do now, which is not the
idea. I am also limited by the equipment that the chap who makes the
parts for me has, which rules out any formed flanges or beads, or
indeed, any type of re-design.

You seem to be limiting your manufacturing process to the capabilities of one
subcontractor (person?) rather than designing for efficient manufacture,

Indeed. He charges me about one half to one third of what other
potential suppliers have quoted. There is also the problem of tooling
costs if I change supplier. This business is only a supplement to my
pension and doesn't make enough to justify a major outlay on tooling. If
it did, there would be several changes I would make to the designs of
the products.

a
'series of cuts along one edge of the cylinder, fold those out to form a flange
and solder the whole lot together' on the face of it sounds like a extremely
time consuming bodge.

That is why I am looking at welding instead. I find it very tedious to do.

I notice that the smaller screen sizes appear at first glance to have formed end
plates

The end plates are spinnings, which come without a centre hole. The
supplier punches holes appropriate to the size of pipe and, in the
smaller sizes, is also able to form them into a small upstand, to which
he spot welds the end sleeve. Unfortunately, on the 6" and 8" sizes, he
can only punch out a plain hole, which is why I have a problem.

Colin Bignell

In message , Nightjar
writes
On 29/05/2014 08:48, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Nightjar
writes
On 28/05/2014 23:05, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 20:25:34 +0100, Nightjar wrote:

Strength is needed. It is to join the cylinder on the right of this:

http://www.norscreenfilters.co.uk/pi...S600-000C.html

to the main body. The whole of the body hangs off the joint when the
screen is in place on the end of a pipe - 6" bore pipe in this case,
although there is also a longer 8" version.

Does it have to be welded? Could a flange be formed on the pipe and
stainless nuts/bolts used to join it to the filter?


The current system is to make a series of cuts along one edge of the
cylinder, fold those out to form a flange and solder the whole lot
together. However, that is incredibly tedious and time-consuming.
Hence, I thought of making a series of short welds around the join,
for strength, and finishing off with solder, to seal the join. Sealing
the join is important, as it is an insect screen and it cannot have
any holes larger than 57 microns.

Sleeve and rivet?

Cut a short length off your pipe. Cut across that to form an open band.
Butt the pipes together. Glue and or rivet the band over the top to form
a join?

I've not seen them but I assume you can get stainless *pop* rivets.

I'm trying to make less work for myself, rather than more :-)

Poking round a *dust control* site, I was reminded of the different ways
they join same size ducts.

Swage? Where the pipe ends are upset to form a continuous flange and
then clamped to the next section with a purchased clamp.

Sleeve? A slightly smaller tube fitted inside your joint and back to
glue, rivets etc.

--
Tim Lamb

On 29/05/2014 22:31, Nightjar wrote:
On 29/05/2014 22:03, newshound wrote:
...
The mention of laser reminds me that electron beam welding is of course
the other way to go!

On balance I like the idea of tack welding with TIG followed up by
sealing with soft solder.

Me too :-)

Timely video on TIG welding thin stainless:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMMhOC5bSps



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wed, 28 May 2014 18:11:31 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

I doubt this is news to you, but some TIG welders have "thin sheet" settings
with pulsed current, where there would be a fine low-current arc, periodically
pulsed to a higher current, in effect giving a series of tack welds.

Dunno the make, I got to use an ancient TIG welder with a motor driving a genny,
and a dusty box on the wall providing gas and HF controls...


Thomas Purfer

On 30/05/2014 15:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
....
Poking round a *dust control* site, I was reminded of the different ways
they join same size ducts.

Swage? Where the pipe ends are upset to form a continuous flange and
then clamped to the next section with a purchased clamp.

Sleeve? A slightly smaller tube fitted inside your joint and back to
glue, rivets etc.


The joint I am trying to make is between a hole in a flat plate and a
tube passing through that hole. It has to be doable with simple
equipment I can keep in my shed. Even a welder cannot be justified by
just this job, but it would come in useful for other things, so I can
stretch the justification that far.

Colin Bignell

On 30/05/2014 16:37, John Rumm wrote:
On 29/05/2014 22:31, Nightjar wrote:
On 29/05/2014 22:03, newshound wrote:
...
The mention of laser reminds me that electron beam welding is of course
the other way to go!

On balance I like the idea of tack welding with TIG followed up by
sealing with soft solder.

Me too :-)

Timely video on TIG welding thin stainless:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMMhOC5bSps

Interesting, thank you.

Colin Bignell

On 30/05/2014 16:52, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2014 18:11:31 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

It is a long time since I needed to do this. Has there been any
improvement on TIG for welding thin (22g & 26g) stainless steel?

I doubt this is news to you, but some TIG welders have "thin sheet" settings
with pulsed current, where there would be a fine low-current arc, periodically
pulsed to a higher current, in effect giving a series of tack welds.

Dunno the make, I got to use an ancient TIG welder with a motor driving a genny,
and a dusty box on the wall providing gas and HF controls...

I looked at that, but I'm not too sure how useful pulsed current would
be, given that I would probably need to be working right at the bottom
end of the current range on such thin metal.

However, the problem may be solved. A chap I know who does his own car
body repairs has offered to tack weld the tube in place for me. It will
be MIG, rather than TIG, but he is well experienced and I will see how
it goes.

Thanks to everybody for all the input.

Colin Bignell

In message , Nightjar
writes
On 30/05/2014 15:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
...
Poking round a *dust control* site, I was reminded of the different ways
they join same size ducts.

Swage? Where the pipe ends are upset to form a continuous flange and
then clamped to the next section with a purchased clamp.

Sleeve? A slightly smaller tube fitted inside your joint and back to
glue, rivets etc.


The joint I am trying to make is between a hole in a flat plate and a
tube passing through that hole. It has to be doable with simple
equipment I can keep in my shed. Even a welder cannot be justified by
just this job, but it would come in useful for other things, so I can
stretch the justification that far.

Sorry. I was remembering the OP photo.

Pipe to flat plate is always going to be a pig:-)

--
Tim Lamb

On 30/05/14 18:46, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Nightjar
writes
On 30/05/2014 15:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
...
Poking round a *dust control* site, I was reminded of the different ways
they join same size ducts.

Swage? Where the pipe ends are upset to form a continuous flange and
then clamped to the next section with a purchased clamp.

Sleeve? A slightly smaller tube fitted inside your joint and back to
glue, rivets etc.


The joint I am trying to make is between a hole in a flat plate and a
tube passing through that hole. It has to be doable with simple
equipment I can keep in my shed. Even a welder cannot be justified by
just this job, but it would come in useful for other things, so I can
stretch the justification that far.

Sorry. I was remembering the OP photo.

Pipe to flat plate is always going to be a pig:-)

isn't this a classic brazing job?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dF-l-ebX9o
--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On 30/05/2014 19:21, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 30/05/14 18:46, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Nightjar
writes
On 30/05/2014 15:32, Tim Lamb wrote:
...
Poking round a *dust control* site, I was reminded of the different
ways
they join same size ducts.

Swage? Where the pipe ends are upset to form a continuous flange and
then clamped to the next section with a purchased clamp.

Sleeve? A slightly smaller tube fitted inside your joint and back to
glue, rivets etc.


The joint I am trying to make is between a hole in a flat plate and a
tube passing through that hole. It has to be doable with simple
equipment I can keep in my shed. Even a welder cannot be justified by
just this job, but it would come in useful for other things, so I can
stretch the justification that far.

Sorry. I was remembering the OP photo.

Pipe to flat plate is always going to be a pig:-)

isn't this a classic brazing job?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dF-l-ebX9o

I get heat distortion problems with soft soldering.

Colin Bignell