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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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What's likely to be wrong with this car?
On Sat, 04 Mar 2017 07:44:51 +0000, Robin wrote:
On 04/03/2017 00:43, Dave Liquorice wrote: On Fri, 3 Mar 2017 19:39:55 -0500, S Viemeister wrote: It's ****ed Up Beyond All Recognition (IBM), ... Thought FUBAR was military (army) in origin? Are you perhaps thinking of SNAFU? Thought that one was military (air force)... Yes - both originally US Military slang True enough but FUBAR one is the more commonly used one when discussing computer kit and software, often turned into a verb or adverb by tagging ED on the end as in, "This version of windows is well and truly fubared!" (Vista and win10 references mostly). A less epithetic alternative is the word "borked", derived from a typo of "broked", a mistranslation of "broken" often used by people who's first language is not English where it's quite possible the 'typo' was deliberately applied to emphasise the point (it seems to have passed into common usage by native English speaking people now). Getting back on topic, the symptoms suggest either a buggered battery or, seeing as the battery in question is only a few weeks old, a problem of the car's electrics where something like a boot illumination lamp is permanently lit and slowly draining the battery so that it doesn't get a chance to be properly charged by the car alternator during typical daily use. Once a lead acid battery is being operated in a permanent state of deep discharge, it doesn't take very long before its capacity reduces to that of an old shagged out battery. A fairly simple way of checking whether or not the alternator is working is to check the effect on tickover speed[1] when switching the headlights on with the main beam flashing switch lever operated to maximise the electrical loading (switching the screen heater on is optional but can be handy to exaggerate the difference between tickover and higher engine revs headlamp brightness). A working alternator will produce a noticeable increase in headlamp brightness when the accelerator pedal is depressed to increase the tickover to around 2000 rpm or so. [1] This effect is most noticeable with petrol engined vehicles, less so with diesels. The "Rev it up test" is maybe the better option with a diesel engined vehicle. -- Johnny B Good |
#2
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What's likely to be wrong with this car?
Johnny B Good wrote :
A fairly simple way of checking whether or not the alternator is working is to check the effect on tickover speed[1] when switching the headlights on with the main beam flashing switch lever operated to maximise the electrical loading (switching the screen heater on is optional but can be handy to exaggerate the difference between tickover and higher engine revs headlamp brightness). That will not work on any modern petrol or diesel - the ECU will do its very best to maintain its programmed tick-over speed. What might be noticeable is a change in the tick-over engine note, as it comes under more load. All of my lighting is fed via a constant voltage supply, so reving the engine up, makes no difference to their brightness. |
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