hello

My Nu-tool (ex B&Q) drill press has a B16 spindle which fits into a
matching B16 socket in its 1/2" chuck (chuck is labelled "B16"). I
remember following the original chuck fitting instructions, 15+ years
ago, which said to push the drill press spindle down into the rear of
the chuck.

I now want to upgrade to a keyless chuck but I am unable to remove the
original chuck because:

1 - there is no cross-slot through the tapered spindle with which to use
a drift

2 - wedges will merely force the spindle (and attached chuck) downwards
and I can't lock the spindle. There is no "shoulder" on the spindle
against which wedges could work, only the body of the drill press where
the lower bearing is seated (and through which the spindle is driven).

I have tried a rubber mallet against the chuck sides - no luck.

I have tried heating the chuck with a hot air gun and using the
mallet - no luck.

I can't see how to disassemble the entire drill press to get the spindle
+ chuck isolated, so I wondered if anyone could please suggest a trick
or two which might free the chuck in situ?

Thanks again for any guidance or ideas to experiment with


DDS

Duncan DiSaudelli laid this down on his screen :
Thanks again for any guidance or ideas to experiment with

Try two wooden wedges, with a slot cut in each for the spindle. Then
using two hammers, one in each hand to force the wedges in the gap.

Make a tubular bush that will fit in the chuck and the bore equal to a
tapping drill for a convenient bolt. (5mm for M6 or 6.75 for M8 etc)
Fit the bush in the chuck and drill up through the back of the chuck.
there will be a small distance after you break through before the drill
touches the bottom of the spindle.
Tap a thread in the chuck and use a bolt to press on the end of the
spindle. Apply a reasonable pressure with the bolt and the chuck might
come off or combine with sideways rubber mallet blows to release it.

Duncan DiSaudelli wrote:
hello

My Nu-tool (ex B&Q) drill press has a B16 spindle which fits into a
matching B16 socket in its 1/2" chuck (chuck is labelled "B16"). I
remember following the original chuck fitting instructions, 15+ years
ago, which said to push the drill press spindle down into the rear of
the chuck.

I now want to upgrade to a keyless chuck but I am unable to remove the
original chuck because:

1 - there is no cross-slot through the tapered spindle with which to use
a drift

2 - wedges will merely force the spindle (and attached chuck) downwards
and I can't lock the spindle. There is no "shoulder" on the spindle
against which wedges could work, only the body of the drill press where
the lower bearing is seated (and through which the spindle is driven).

I have tried a rubber mallet against the chuck sides - no luck.

I have tried heating the chuck with a hot air gun and using the
mallet - no luck.

I can't see how to disassemble the entire drill press to get the spindle
+ chuck isolated, so I wondered if anyone could please suggest a trick
or two which might free the chuck in situ?

Thanks again for any guidance or ideas to experiment with


DDS

On 14/02/2017 18:55, Duncan DiSaudelli wrote:
hello

My Nu-tool (ex B&Q) drill press has a B16 spindle which fits into a
matching B16 socket in its 1/2" chuck (chuck is labelled "B16"). I
remember following the original chuck fitting instructions, 15+ years
ago, which said to push the drill press spindle down into the rear of
the chuck.

I now want to upgrade to a keyless chuck but I am unable to remove the
original chuck because:

How about, find a M12 bolt or similar, feed it up through the hole in
the table (with washers if necessary so the head will not pass through
the table). Lower the quill, and grip the end of the bolt in the chuck.
With appropriate adjustment of the table height, you should now be able
to use the quill leavers to lift it away from the chuck which is now
pinned to the table and can't lift with the quill.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 2/14/2017 6:55 PM, Duncan DiSaudelli wrote:
hello

My Nu-tool (ex B&Q) drill press has a B16 spindle which fits into a
matching B16 socket in its 1/2" chuck (chuck is labelled "B16"). I
remember following the original chuck fitting instructions, 15+ years
ago, which said to push the drill press spindle down into the rear of
the chuck.

I now want to upgrade to a keyless chuck but I am unable to remove the
original chuck because:

1 - there is no cross-slot through the tapered spindle with which to use
a drift

2 - wedges will merely force the spindle (and attached chuck) downwards
and I can't lock the spindle. There is no "shoulder" on the spindle
against which wedges could work, only the body of the drill press where
the lower bearing is seated (and through which the spindle is driven).

I have tried a rubber mallet against the chuck sides - no luck.

I have tried heating the chuck with a hot air gun and using the
mallet - no luck.

I can't see how to disassemble the entire drill press to get the spindle
+ chuck isolated, so I wondered if anyone could please suggest a trick
or two which might free the chuck in situ?

Thanks again for any guidance or ideas to experiment with


DDS

It's possible that you have a hollow spindle, although it will probably
have a bolt or a plastic plug at the top.

+ chuck isolated, so I wondered if anyone could please suggest a trick
or two which might free the chuck in situ?


Those are some excellent suggestions, and the idea of a hollow spindle
is an encouraging thought to say the least! I shall look into it
tomorrow night and we'll see what happens next (apart from the usual
minor injury and frustration, I mean) when I try these various and good
ideas.

Thanks all!

On Tue, 14 Feb 2017 18:55:38 +0000
Duncan DiSaudelli wrote:

hello

My Nu-tool (ex B&Q) drill press has a B16 spindle which fits into a
matching B16 socket in its 1/2" chuck (chuck is labelled "B16"). I
remember following the original chuck fitting instructions, 15+
years ago, which said to push the drill press spindle down into the
rear of the chuck.



My partial dyslexia made me see that Subject at first glance as:
"...tapered duck...".

I'm so glad it wasn't that.

--
Davey.

On Tue, 14 Feb 2017 22:20:13 +0000, Duncan DiSaudelli wrote:

Those are some excellent suggestions, and the idea of a hollow spindle
is an encouraging thought to say the least! I shall look into it
tomorrow night and we'll see what happens next (apart from the usual
minor injury and frustration, I mean) when I try these various and good
ideas.

I have had the opposite problem: the chuck keeps falling off its taper.

It was when I used (abused?) the chuck to hold polishing wheels. The side loads
coming from well below the chuck work the taper loose... (I cleaned it well
with emery cloth, and smacked it into place, and may have helped it along with
Loctite. It still comes off every so often, but not enough to be trouble.

This was a cheap polishing set, to be held in a drill chuck, with one felt wheel
and one sewn, and coarse and fine compounds, similar to:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/Buffing+%26+Polishing/sd2694/Polishing+Set/p58727

So if you were use it for polishing, you may find the chuck drops off after a
while...


Thomas Prufer

Am I understanding this correctly, the only thing holding the chuck in
place is that it has a tapered shank that fits in a tapered hole?

In article ,
Duncan DiSaudelli wrote:
I have tried a rubber mallet against the chuck sides - no luck.

I have tried heating the chuck with a hot air gun and using the
mallet - no luck.

Heat the chuck with a hot air gun.

Put the chuck key in and whack that with the mallet - in the turning
spindle direction.

--
*When a man opens a car door for his wife, it's either a new car or a new

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wed, 15 Feb 2017 11:44:52 +0000, GB wrote:

Am I understanding this correctly, the only thing holding the chuck in
place is that it has a tapered shank that fits in a tapered hole?

Yes, expect the hole is in the chuck and the spindle has the shank.

I have a similar cheap pillar drill, chuck does very occasionally
fall of.

The OP does seem to having serious problems, where is the drill kept
has it got damp and a bit of corrosion happened in the taper? Tried a
bit of Plus Gas or diesel applied to the joint? Tried banging the
chuck harder on to break the bond?

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 15/02/2017 13:57, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 15 Feb 2017 11:44:52 +0000, GB wrote:

Am I understanding this correctly, the only thing holding the chuck in
place is that it has a tapered shank that fits in a tapered hole?

Yes, expect the hole is in the chuck and the spindle has the shank.

I have a similar cheap pillar drill, chuck does very occasionally
fall of.

Yup, same here... giving both chuck and spindle a good clean and then
applying a small amount of loctite seemed to solve the problem of it
dropping off.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 15/02/2017 13:57, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Wed, 15 Feb 2017 11:44:52 +0000, GB wrote:

Am I understanding this correctly, the only thing holding the chuck in
place is that it has a tapered shank that fits in a tapered hole?

Yes, expect the hole is in the chuck and the spindle has the shank.

So, a sharp tap with a hammer on the top of the chuck should
theoretically be enough to separate them? But, in practice, after 15
years ...


I have a similar cheap pillar drill, chuck does very occasionally
fall of.

The OP does seem to having serious problems, where is the drill kept
has it got damp and a bit of corrosion happened in the taper? Tried a
bit of Plus Gas or diesel applied to the joint? Tried banging the
chuck harder on to break the bond?

On 14/02/2017 22:20, Duncan DiSaudelli wrote:
+ chuck isolated, so I wondered if anyone could please suggest a trick
or two which might free the chuck in situ?


Those are some excellent suggestions, and the idea of a hollow spindle
is an encouraging thought to say the least! I shall look into it
tomorrow night and we'll see what happens next (apart from the usual
minor injury and frustration, I mean) when I try these various and good
ideas.

Thanks all!




I'd be inclined to wind some tension into it by passing a bolt up
through the table and clamping the threaded end in the chuck. Then raise
the chuck with the winding handle and then, once you have some tension
in it, give it a smart tap on the side with a hammer.

Works pretty well for breaking the taper on car steering ball joints.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 14/02/17 18:55, Duncan DiSaudelli wrote:

I have tried a rubber mallet against the chuck sides - no luck.

I have tried heating the chuck with a hot air gun and using the
mallet - no luck.

I can't see how to disassemble the entire drill press to get the spindle
+ chuck isolated, so I wondered if anyone could please suggest a trick
or two which might free the chuck in situ?

Thanks again for any guidance or ideas to experiment with


With other downward forcing methods, perhaps touch the chuck body with
an oscillating multitool to give it a good percussive shake?

--
Adrian C

Davey wrote:

My partial dyslexia made me see that Subject at first glance as:
"...tapered duck...".

Did that set you up to read "mallet" as "mallard" :-P

I'm so glad it wasn't that.

Anyway, aren't ducks corkscrewed, rather than tapered?

In message , Andy Burns
writes
Davey wrote:

My partial dyslexia made me see that Subject at first glance as:
"...tapered duck...".

Did that set you up to read "mallet" as "mallard" :-P

I'm so glad it wasn't that.

Anyway, aren't ducks corkscrewed, rather than tapered?

You're thinking of male pigs appendages.

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Andy Burns
writes
Davey wrote:

My partial dyslexia made me see that Subject at first glance as:
"...tapered duck...".

Did that set you up to read "mallet" as "mallard" :-P

I'm so glad it wasn't that.

Anyway, aren't ducks corkscrewed, rather than tapered?

You're thinking of male pigs appendages.


Not just pigs...

https://youtu.be/6k01DIVDJlY

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

Tim Lamb wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

Anyway, aren't ducks corkscrewed, rather than tapered?

You're thinking of male pigs appendages.

I'm trying not to, but ducks ... same thing.

In message , Andy Burns
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

Anyway, aren't ducks corkscrewed, rather than tapered?

You're thinking of male pigs appendages.

I'm trying not to, but ducks ... same thing.

I didn't know that.


--
Tim Lamb

+ chuck isolated, so I wondered if anyone could please suggest a trick
or two which might free the chuck in situ?

Success - there were many clever suggestions and the first one I tried,
which worked for me, was a decent basting in WD40 followed by clamping a
bolt in the table, lowering and then gripping the chuck onto it, and
giving the chuck a very thorough clouting with a rubber mallet.

I'm now waiting for a kelyess replacement (the original chuck is intact)
and the B16 taper is still in good (rust free) condition.

Thanks All!

DDS

Andy Burns Wrote in message:
Tim Lamb wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

Anyway, aren't ducks corkscrewed, rather than tapered?

You're thinking of male pigs appendages.

I'm trying not to, but ducks ... same thing.



Chinese food fan?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

replying to Dave Liquorice, Roy B wrote:
For excellent removal of stuck parts, try a product called AeroKroil (The Oil
That Creeps), Orange Cans, Made by Kano Industries, KanoLaboratories.com Its
pricey but goes a long way and is an excellent stuck-parts loosener.
Close/almost the same is Kroil, and SiliKroil. Let it soak. I am in the same
situation of trying to remove a B16 Taper chuck from mp drill press. I'm
going to try steadying the top of the press and give the chuck a sharp tap
with a steep hammer. Use 2 hammers (one on each side) and tap sharply down at
the same time if possible. I'll try what I just advised. -Roy B.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...l-1190180-.htm

replying to Duncan DiSaudelli, Roy B wrote:
See below for comments left by Roy B on 16Apr19.... THEN: Yesterday I did
what I suggested. To make sure we are all on the same page wrt the terms and
parts, go to HarborFreight.com (which I'll now refer to as HFT), search with
Drill Press, and choose the 10" 12 speed one. Scroll down and find a tab
where it says User Manual and select to download it. Here it then shows up as
"User Manual & Safety Instructions". This KEY everyone is referring to is
listed as # 34 on that diagram. On others it may be listed as a WEDGE KEY, or
a DRIFT KEY. (The way HFT lists and names components may be different from
common practice.) Basically this KEY is a slightly hardened piece of metal a
few inches long, about 1/8" thick, slanted to a point on one of the long
ends. On my drill press, there is a slot in the Spindle Sleeve to wedge the
Key in but there is no way to line it up and GET the Key in there. Somewhere
, there MAY BE clearance to put the KEY between the chuck and the spindle.
There may be only a lip on the outer edge at the bottom of the Spindle. Hold
the KEY sideways on top of the Chuck and below the Spindle. Give it a quick
significant rap with a hammer. If you CANNOT find a lip above the chuck and,
bottom of the Spindle, soak the connections between Chuck, Arbor, and Spindle
with Aero Kroil or another penetrating fluid. Then hit down the Chuck down
with a hammer. OR use two hammers, one on each side of the Chuck, and knock
the Chuck down, making sure the hammers hit simultaneously on the Chuck. THIS
may also remove the Arbor along with the Chuck, at which point you will have
to clamp the Arbor sideways in a vise and knock off the Chuck with a hammer or
two.To make sure everything goes back together properly, AND FOR THOSE where
the Arbor/Arbor & Chuck keeps falling out, clean EVERYTHING thoroughly with
something like brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Use proper safety
precautions...IE don't smoke or expose these chemicals to a fire source. Use
a wire brush on the exposed ends of the Arbor. To get down into the chuck,
use a toothbrush. In other words, when the stuff goes back together, all
contact surfaces must be CLEAN. NO dirt or oil. Possibly use 600 grit
sandpaper LIGHTLY on the exposed surfaces. Re-clean everything. Assemble the
parts together by hand and place the Chuck / Chuck & Arbor up into the
Spindle. It should stay. Open the Chuck so the teeth retract and there is a
smooth surface upon which to hit (don't hit the Chuck gripping teeth... They
WILL break off) Then, PRESSING DOWN the top of the press, knock the Chuck up
SHARPLY with a hammer. Then also secure a piece of wood below the Chuck and
bring the Chuck down with the drill press Feed Handle. Use modest force on the
drill press Feed Handles... Don't break a handle off. On many small to
medium size drill presses, there is play and slack EVERYWHERE... Everything
must be rigidly secured. I HOPE THIS HELPS. This is the first ever comment I
have made on a blog like this. Very Respectfully Submitted, Roy B. (yeah,
yeah.. ha ha on my screen name. It was the only one my wife had left and we
have stuck with AOL).

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...l-1190180-.htm

On 18/04/2019 03:14, Roy B wrote:


This is the first ever comment I
have made on a blog like this.Â* Very Respectfully Submitted, Roy B.Â* (yeah,
yeah.. ha ha on my screen name.Â* It was the only one my wife had left
and we
have stuck with AOL).

Hi Roy,

Just on the off chance you manage to see this (for whatever reason it
seems very rare to get any form of response via the web site you are
on), you may find this helpful:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Home_owners_hub




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/