I'm installing a kitchen in a couple of weeks time and have a question.

I have to move my heater/water controller from one wall to another it has 8
wires. As I'm going to need more wire to move the box is it okay to isolate
the cable in a junction box in the ceiling void and then join the new cable
in this box?

I'd thought it to be no problem but thought I'd ask first.

On Mon, 2 Feb 2004 19:58:08 -0000, "MattP" {add
mattspersonal before @} wrote:

I'm installing a kitchen in a couple of weeks time and have a question.

I have to move my heater/water controller from one wall to another it has 8
wires. As I'm going to need more wire to move the box is it okay to isolate
the cable in a junction box in the ceiling void and then join the new cable
in this box?

I'd thought it to be no problem but thought I'd ask first.


If it is going to be inaccessible (as this will be) then the joints
need to be crimp types and not screw terminals (as in chocolate block)



..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"MattP" {add mattspersonal before @} wrote in message
...
I'm installing a kitchen in a couple of weeks time and have a question.

I have to move my heater/water controller from one wall to another it has
8
wires. As I'm going to need more wire to move the box is it okay to
isolate
the cable in a junction box in the ceiling void and then join the new
cable
in this box?

I'd thought it to be no problem but thought I'd ask first.

best to replace the cable complete, as it wil be difficult to access later
when everything is put back.
you will know the joint is there in the ceiling void, but the next person
who buys your house wont. bear in mind that you could end up in a house
where someone else had done this, imagine how ****ed off you'd be if there
was a loose connection and you couldn't find it.
rob

In message , rob
writes

"MattP" {add mattspersonal before @} wrote in message
...
I'm installing a kitchen in a couple of weeks time and have a question.

I have to move my heater/water controller from one wall to another it has
8
wires. As I'm going to need more wire to move the box is it okay to
isolate
the cable in a junction box in the ceiling void and then join the new
cable
in this box?

when everything is put back.
you will know the joint is there in the ceiling void, but the next person
who buys your house wont. bear in mind that you could end up in a house
where someone else had done this, imagine how ****ed off you'd be if there
was a loose connection and you couldn't find it.

And anyway, you can guarantee that if you did box in a junctions box it
would get a loose connection.

As someone else said, you need to put in crimped connections (though if
possible I'd replace the whole cable)
--
Chris French, Leeds

In article ,
chris French wrote:
And anyway, you can guarantee that if you did box in a junctions box it
would get a loose connection.

I've never had a screw connection come loose in all the years I've been
DIYing electrics. Seen it many times on 'pro' installations, though - I'd
say it's one of the main causes of faults. Perhaps 'pro' sparks are rather
limp wristed?

--
*Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
chris French wrote:
And anyway, you can guarantee that if you did box in a junctions box it
would get a loose connection.

I've never had a screw connection come loose in all the years I've been
DIYing electrics. Seen it many times on 'pro' installations, though - I'd
say it's one of the main causes of faults. Perhaps 'pro' sparks are rather
limp wristed?

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

I'd like to invite you to our site to put forward this interesting theory.
Oh, and what flowers would you like in hospital?
Richard.
ps. written with tongue FIRMLY in cheek. (MY tongue / MY cheek before anyone
goes for the easy shot)

On Tue, 3 Feb 2004 19:53:11 -0000, "Frisket"
wrote:


"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
chris French wrote:
And anyway, you can guarantee that if you did box in a junctions box it
would get a loose connection.

I've never had a screw connection come loose in all the years I've been
DIYing electrics. Seen it many times on 'pro' installations, though - I'd
say it's one of the main causes of faults. Perhaps 'pro' sparks are rather
limp wristed?

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

I'd like to invite you to our site to put forward this interesting theory.
Oh, and what flowers would you like in hospital?
Richard.
ps. written with tongue FIRMLY in cheek. (MY tongue / MY cheek before anyone
goes for the easy shot)

.... contortionists as well then :-)


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"MattP" {add mattspersonal before @} wrote in message ...
I'm installing a kitchen in a couple of weeks time and have a question.

I have to move my heater/water controller from one wall to another it has 8
wires. As I'm going to need more wire to move the box is it okay to isolate
the cable in a junction box in the ceiling void and then join the new cable
in this box?

I'd thought it to be no problem but thought I'd ask first.

So long as the JB is accesable for future inspection,then yes go ahead
making sure of good workmanship and mechanically sound connections.
Also advisble to insulation test the circuit after the described works
are carried out.

Jon.

"John Southern" wrote in message
om...
"MattP" {add mattspersonal before @} wrote in message
...
I'm installing a kitchen in a couple of weeks time and have a question.

I have to move my heater/water controller from one wall to another it
has 8
wires. As I'm going to need more wire to move the box is it okay to
isolate
the cable in a junction box in the ceiling void and then join the new
cable
in this box?

I'd thought it to be no problem but thought I'd ask first.

So long as the JB is accesable for future inspection,then yes go ahead
making sure of good workmanship and mechanically sound connections.
Also NOT advisble to insulation test the circuit after the described works
are carried out.

Jon.

Would the same prinicple apply to cables e.g. cooker and kitchen sockets?

My problem is that I have a Barrets home, and so the floorboards are made of
chipboard and the've used 6" nails to secure the boards down. It has been
impossible to lift the board for the sockets without breaking it, if I've
got to replace the whole cable that's a lot of destructive work. Plan B is
to use a router to cut around the nails and replace with screws.

Any giudance appreciated.

"copey" wrote in message
...

"John Southern" wrote in message
om...
"MattP" {add mattspersonal before @} wrote in message
...
I'm installing a kitchen in a couple of weeks time and have a
question.

I have to move my heater/water controller from one wall to another it
has 8
wires. As I'm going to need more wire to move the box is it okay to
isolate
the cable in a junction box in the ceiling void and then join the new
cable
in this box?

I'd thought it to be no problem but thought I'd ask first.

So long as the JB is accesable for future inspection,then yes go ahead
making sure of good workmanship and mechanically sound connections.
Also NOT advisble to insulation test the circuit after the described
works
are carried out.

Jon.

In article ,
MattP {add mattspersonal before @} wrote:
My problem is that I have a Barrets home, and so the floorboards are
made of chipboard and the've used 6" nails to secure the boards down.
It has been impossible to lift the board for the sockets without
breaking it, if I've got to replace the whole cable that's a lot of
destructive work. Plan B is to use a router to cut around the nails and
replace with screws.

Trouble with chipboard flooring is the edges are T&G joined, so even if
it's screwed down it usually breaks when lifting - unless you lift the
entire floor.

--
*How about "never"? Is "never" good for you?

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

To be honest Dave I got out the circular saw and cut down through the T&G,
did a great job expcept that on the first cut the depth plate slipped and I
cut a 1" slot in the ceiling joist. Can't see it being a problem as it's a
20cm deep joist, however, will make good using 'sister' pieces and bolts.

I'll replace the old c.board with new and screw them down not nail gun it.

However, I don't understand why they had to use such long nails when the
upstairs hallway boards are screwed down. I've got to go through at least
another 2 boards yet.

Whadya think of the router option to cut the board away from the nails?


"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
MattP {add mattspersonal before @} wrote:
My problem is that I have a Barrets home, and so the floorboards are
made of chipboard and the've used 6" nails to secure the boards down.
It has been impossible to lift the board for the sockets without
breaking it, if I've got to replace the whole cable that's a lot of
destructive work. Plan B is to use a router to cut around the nails and
replace with screws.

Trouble with chipboard flooring is the edges are T&G joined, so even if
it's screwed down it usually breaks when lifting - unless you lift the
entire floor.

--
*How about "never"? Is "never" good for you?

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

"MattP" {add mattspersonal before @} wrote in message ...
Would the same prinicple apply to cables e.g. cooker and kitchen sockets?

My problem is that I have a Barrets home, and so the floorboards are made of
chipboard and the've used 6" nails to secure the boards down. It has been
impossible to lift the board for the sockets without breaking it, if I've
got to replace the whole cable that's a lot of destructive work. Plan B is
to use a router to cut around the nails and replace with screws.

I've seen a gizzmo for a router somewhere in a catalogue or on the web
(Screwfix? tlc? but I can't find it now) which is designed to cuts out
a neat stepped hole about 4" diameter in a chipboard floor, and also
prepares a matching plug for the hole, so when you've finished mucking
about beneath the floor you can readily fill the hole with a neat,
removable, flush-fitting hatch. Was reasonably expensive IIRC, but
I'd buy one like a shot if I had a lot of these to do.

Maybe someone here knows what I'm on about?

David

Lobster wrote:
"MattP" {add mattspersonal before @} wrote in message ...
Would the same prinicple apply to cables e.g. cooker and kitchen sockets?

My problem is that I have a Barrets home, and so the floorboards are made of
chipboard and the've used 6" nails to secure the boards down. It has been
impossible to lift the board for the sockets without breaking it, if I've
got to replace the whole cable that's a lot of destructive work. Plan B is
to use a router to cut around the nails and replace with screws.

I've seen a gizzmo for a router somewhere in a catalogue or on the web
(Screwfix? tlc? but I can't find it now) which is designed to cuts out
a neat stepped hole about 4" diameter in a chipboard floor, and also
prepares a matching plug for the hole, so when you've finished mucking
about beneath the floor you can readily fill the hole with a neat,
removable, flush-fitting hatch. Was reasonably expensive IIRC, but
I'd buy one like a shot if I had a lot of these to do.

Maybe someone here knows what I'm on about?

It's a Trend router accessory, people who have it says it's good.
What puts me off is the price of the plastic inserts you need to make
the hole in the floor into a neat trap-door.

--
Chris Green