Hi

Been trying to undo the washing machine drum central nut, but the drum
just goes round. We couldnt stop it turning, so couldnt undo the nut.
How to stop the drum rotating??

I did think of jamming wood between a drum pulley rib and a rib of the
outer tub (drum's outer casing), but the pressure on it would be
enormous, many times the force put on the bar driving the nut, so i
didnt want to smash the tub doing that.

How do you folks do it?

Regards, NT

On 30/01/2004 N. Thornton a wrote :
Hi

Been trying to undo the washing machine drum central nut, but the drum
just goes round. We couldnt stop it turning, so couldnt undo the nut.
How to stop the drum rotating??

I did think of jamming wood between a drum pulley rib and a rib of the
outer tub (drum's outer casing), but the pressure on it would be
enormous, many times the force put on the bar driving the nut, so i
didnt want to smash the tub doing that.

How do you folks do it?

Regards, NT

First be certain that you are turning it the right way to undo it (left
hand thread?). Instead of applying steady weight on the spanner, try
giving it a sharp clout with a hammer or mallet. The drums intertia
alone might be enough to allow you to loosen it.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (Lap)
http://www.ukradioamateur.org

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 19:50:49 UTC, (N. Thornton)
wrote:

I did think of jamming wood between a drum pulley rib and a rib of the
outer tub (drum's outer casing), but the pressure on it would be
enormous, many times the force put on the bar driving the nut, so i
didnt want to smash the tub doing that.

Well, that's what I did both when removing and replacing the nut. It
didn't seem to be a problem, and still isn't, 3 years on!

--
Bob Eager
begin by not using Outlook Express...

I once needed to get the chuck off a (Makita) drill. I had much the same
problem...couldn't keep the drill from spinning while I turned the chuck.

The advice from the Makita service center was to chuck up a long allen
wrench with the long side 'out' then set the drill on a bench with the chuck
over the edge and (here's the good part, I know you've been wondering what
this has to do with your washer) *whack the allen wrench with a hammer*! It
worked great. One whack broke the threads free, and the chuck spun off
easily.

I think it might work for you...take a box-end wrench (not a socket wrench),
put it on the end of the spindle; and *whack it with a hammer.*

jak

"N. Thornton" wrote in message
om...
Hi

Been trying to undo the washing machine drum central nut, but the drum
just goes round. We couldnt stop it turning, so couldnt undo the nut.
How to stop the drum rotating??

I did think of jamming wood between a drum pulley rib and a rib of the
outer tub (drum's outer casing), but the pressure on it would be
enormous, many times the force put on the bar driving the nut, so i
didnt want to smash the tub doing that.

How do you folks do it?

Regards, NT

In article ,
"jakdedert" writes:
I once needed to get the chuck off a (Makita) drill. I had much the same
problem...couldn't keep the drill from spinning while I turned the chuck.

The advice from the Makita service center was to chuck up a long allen
wrench with the long side 'out' then set the drill on a bench with the chuck
over the edge and (here's the good part, I know you've been wondering what
this has to do with your washer) *whack the allen wrench with a hammer*! It
worked great. One whack broke the threads free, and the chuck spun off
easily.

That was how you were supposed to take the chuck off my old B&D
drill. After ~15 years, it eventually took the splines off the
drive shaft in the gearbox. It still looks perfectly functional,
and you can hold it in the air and operate it and it looks fine.
However with it running at full speed, you can stop the chuck
by touching it with your little finger, although the motor
carries on spinning at full speed. ;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel

On 30 Jan 2004 11:50:49 -0800, (N. Thornton) wrote:

Hi

Been trying to undo the washing machine drum central nut, but the drum
just goes round. We couldnt stop it turning, so couldnt undo the nut.
How to stop the drum rotating??

I did think of jamming wood between a drum pulley rib and a rib of the
outer tub (drum's outer casing), but the pressure on it would be
enormous, many times the force put on the bar driving the nut, so i
didnt want to smash the tub doing that.

How do you folks do it?

Take the drum out.


SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

(N. Thornton) wrote in message . com...
Hi

Been trying to undo the washing machine drum central nut, but the drum
just goes round. We couldnt stop it turning, so couldnt undo the nut.
How to stop the drum rotating??


You may need to heat the nut with a torch to break it loose. Also,
keep in mind that the shaft may have left-hand thread.

David, on the Illinois prairie.

"N. Thornton" wrote in message
om...
Hi

Been trying to undo the washing machine drum central nut, but the drum
just goes round. We couldnt stop it turning, so couldnt undo the nut.
How to stop the drum rotating??

I did think of jamming wood between a drum pulley rib and a rib of the
outer tub (drum's outer casing), but the pressure on it would be
enormous, many times the force put on the bar driving the nut, so i
didnt want to smash the tub doing that.

How do you folks do it?

Regards, NT

Easiest I find is an impact wrench, but average mech. doesn't have one.
Usual method otherwise is to chock web of wheel with wood block. Because
the wood is placed at the outer edge of the wheel the forces are not as much
as you might imagine because of the extra leverage. If you have a good
fitting spanner then the whack with a piece of 4 by 2 on the spanner may
work.

MrCheerful

"N. Thornton" wrote in message
om...
Hi

Been trying to undo the washing machine drum central nut, but the drum
just goes round. We couldnt stop it turning, so couldnt undo the nut.
How to stop the drum rotating??

I did think of jamming wood between a drum pulley rib and a rib of the
outer tub (drum's outer casing), but the pressure on it would be
enormous, many times the force put on the bar driving the nut, so i
didnt want to smash the tub doing that.

How do you folks do it?

Regards, NT

Have you made sure that you've released the locking lug on the nut first.
Most machines have a strap that fits under the nut and into a groove in the
wheel. The metal strap is then wrapped up at the edge around the side of
the nut and is there to stop vibration from shaking the nut loose. If you
forget about, it makes removing the nut a real pain in the proverbial.


---
http://www.basecuritysystems.no-ip.com

Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.574 / Virus Database: 364 - Release Date: 29/01/04

Bearings gone?

Been there done that - in the end the spare parts cost me about £50,
took me about 4 hours and many cuts and bruises - in reality it would
have been more sensible (for me) to buy a new or second hand washing
machine ...

Rob

In article ,
jakdedert wrote:
The advice from the Makita service center was to chuck up a long allen
wrench with the long side 'out' then set the drill on a bench with the
chuck over the edge and (here's the good part, I know you've been
wondering what this has to do with your washer) *whack the allen wrench
with a hammer*! It worked great. One whack broke the threads free, and
the chuck spun off easily.

In the days when you regularly did this to use your circular saw
attachment etc, B&D said to insert the chuck key and whack that with a
hammer.

Be careful with a reversing screw driving drill, though, these have
usually a left hand thread locking screw which needs to be removed first.

--
*"I am " is reportedly the shortest sentence in the English language. *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Be careful with a reversing screw driving drill, though, these have
usually a left hand thread locking screw which needs to be removed first.

I thought all chucks had this LH threaded screw, or am I wrong?


SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

Hi!

If it's an old Maytag machine, you can simply block the transmission
underneath the drum to stop it from turning. I had to do this when I
replaced a tub seal in a 70s-something Maytag washer...

I suppose it might work for other machines as well where the transmission
seems to "ride around" the power shaft.

William

In article ,
Lurch wrote:
Be careful with a reversing screw driving drill, though, these have
usually a left hand thread locking screw which needs to be removed first.

I thought all chucks had this LH threaded screw, or am I wrong?

I've got a couple of old non reversing ones and they don't. If you think
of it, the chuck can't really come loose in use - it will tend to self
tighten. Could be modern drills all now use it to standardise things.

--
*I pretend to work. - they pretend to pay me.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

"Lurch" wrote in message
...
Be careful with a reversing screw driving drill, though, these have
usually a left hand thread locking screw which needs to be removed first.

I thought all chucks had this LH threaded screw, or am I wrong?


SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.


My Atlas Copco cordless doesn't, and it's not through engineering down to a
price or lack of torque.

Don't think that the mains AEG does either. however, as they're both the
same manufacturer, it could be a manufacturer-specific thing.


--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

In article ,
RichardS noaccess@invalid wrote:
I thought all chucks had this LH threaded screw, or am I wrong?


My Atlas Copco cordless doesn't, and it's not through engineering down
to a price or lack of torque.

How is it locked to prevent the chuck unscrewing in reverse?

--
*With her marriage she got a new name and a dress.*

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

On Mon, 02 Feb 2004 12:10:51 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman
wrote:

In article ,
Lurch wrote:
Be careful with a reversing screw driving drill, though, these have
usually a left hand thread locking screw which needs to be removed first.

I thought all chucks had this LH threaded screw, or am I wrong?

I've got a couple of old non reversing ones and they don't. If you think
of it, the chuck can't really come loose in use - it will tend to self
tighten. Could be modern drills all now use it to standardise things.

I obviously don't really remember that well then, my first drill that
I bought when I was at school was a cordless reversible!
I would have checked myself but all my drills are reversible, SDS, or
both.


SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
RichardS noaccess@invalid wrote:
I thought all chucks had this LH threaded screw, or am I wrong?


My Atlas Copco cordless doesn't, and it's not through engineering down
to a price or lack of torque.

How is it locked to prevent the chuck unscrewing in reverse?

Allen or phillips screw down in the bottom of the chuck, threaded into the
shaft. Open the chuck up full wide and you can peer down and see it.
Obviously you have to pull that first.

jak

--
*With her marriage she got a new name and a dress.*

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

In article ,
jakdedert wrote:
I thought all chucks had this LH threaded screw, or am I wrong?

My Atlas Copco cordless doesn't, and it's not through engineering
down to a price or lack of torque.

How is it locked to prevent the chuck unscrewing in reverse?

Allen or phillips screw down in the bottom of the chuck, threaded into
the shaft. Open the chuck up full wide and you can peer down and see
it. Obviously you have to pull that first.

Well, that's the 'standard' we're talking about. Or are you saying it's
not a LH thread?

--
*All men are idiots, and I married their King.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

"William R. Walsh" m wrote in message news:XvlTb.202689$I06.2232153@attbi_s01...
Hi!

If it's an old Maytag machine, you can simply block the transmission
underneath the drum to stop it from turning. I had to do this when I
replaced a tub seal in a 70s-something Maytag washer...

I suppose it might work for other machines as well where the transmission
seems to "ride around" the power shaft.

William

Hi William. I guess youre in America - the type of machines you have
in America have all but disappeared here. We use front loaders, the
clothes just dip into the water once per turn, and they use a fraction
of the amount of water and electricity. Very different to US top
loaders. There is no agitator. The power transmission is a belt, and
when the drum seizes the belt burns through.

Regards, NT

(Lurch) wrote in message ...
On 30 Jan 2004 11:50:49 -0800, (N. Thornton) wrote:

Hi

Been trying to undo the washing machine drum central nut, but the drum
just goes round. We couldnt stop it turning, so couldnt undo the nut.
How to stop the drum rotating??

I did think of jamming wood between a drum pulley rib and a rib of the
outer tub (drum's outer casing), but the pressure on it would be
enormous, many times the force put on the bar driving the nut, so i
didnt want to smash the tub doing that.

How do you folks do it?

Take the drum out.


SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.

I hope this was a joke.

Regards, NT

Drum bearings

Job done, with thanks to folks here. I used 2 wooden jams, one against
the tub ridges, and one against the floor. It then behaved nicely. The
washing frenzy has begun!

Regards, NT

Hi

Been trying to undo the washing machine drum central nut, but the drum
just goes round. We couldnt stop it turning, so couldnt undo the nut.
How to stop the drum rotating??

I did think of jamming wood between a drum pulley rib and a rib of the
outer tub (drum's outer casing), but the pressure on it would be
enormous, many times the force put on the bar driving the nut, so i
didnt want to smash the tub doing that.

How do you folks do it?

Take the drum out.

I hope this was a joke.

I think it may have been the end of a very long day!


SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.