I'm in the process of changing a toilet. The toilet I am removing is
connected to the soil stack via a 90 degree elbow pan connector. The
outlet of the pan I am installing (bought from B&Q) is about 4 inches
further towards the wall, meaning the 90 degree pan connector
(Robomatic -B&Q) will miss the entry to the soil stack. I've tried a
flexible pan connector(Robomatic B&Q) and it would work but would not
be exactly hidden as it would have to balloon out to the side. The
only other option I can think of is shortening the soil stack - which
a) may be difficult as it runs under a partition wall and under the
floor of another room and b) not exactly appealing to me as I'm none
too keen on poo!

Does anyone know of another way around this, like a 90 degree
connector with a shorther knuckle? Can I bend the 90 connector in any
way? Failing that how much a plumber would charge for messing with the
soil stack?

Cheers!
Matt

Nearly Done! wrote:
I'm in the process of changing a toilet. The toilet I am removing is
connected to the soil stack via a 90 degree elbow pan connector. The
outlet of the pan I am installing (bought from B&Q) is about 4 inches
further towards the wall, meaning the 90 degree pan connector snip

The obvious answer is to move the pan forwards...but I realise that you
don't want to do this :-)


Does anyone know of another way around this, like a 90 degree
connector with a shorther knuckle? Can I bend the 90 connector in any
way? Failing that how much a plumber would charge for messing with the
soil stack?

I shall be interested in the replies, becuase I may have the same
problem soon...

Lee




--
To reply use lee.blaver and NTL world com

Lee Blaver wrote in message ...
Nearly Done! wrote:
I'm in the process of changing a toilet. The toilet I am removing is
connected to the soil stack via a 90 degree elbow pan connector. The
outlet of the pan I am installing (bought from B&Q) is about 4 inches
further towards the wall, meaning the 90 degree pan connector snip

The obvious answer is to move the pan forwards...but I realise that you
don't want to do this :-)


Not really since this would mean moving the cistern forward with it!!

Are you fitting a close coupled cistern and pan,as a replacement for a flush
pipe with cistern type.If so you should be able to offset the pipe with a
side entry flexible connector suggest you go to your local plumbing or
builders merchants and get a osma above ground catologue.the sheds are very
limited on drainage and waste.

You could try the local plumbers/builders merchant as they'll have a
lot more choice of fittings than B&Q.

Or you could take a look at the price list/catalogue here and see if
there's anything that looks like it might do the job:

www.hepworthplumbing.co.uk/

HTH

Nearly Done! wrote in message
om...
I'm in the process of changing a toilet. The toilet I am removing is
connected to the soil stack via a 90 degree elbow pan connector. The
outlet of the pan I am installing (bought from B&Q) is about 4 inches
further towards the wall, meaning the 90 degree pan connector
(Robomatic -B&Q) will miss the entry to the soil stack. I've tried a
flexible pan connector(Robomatic B&Q) and it would work but would not
be exactly hidden as it would have to balloon out to the side. The
only other option I can think of is shortening the soil stack - which
a) may be difficult as it runs under a partition wall and under the
floor of another room and b) not exactly appealing to me as I'm none
too keen on poo!

Does anyone know of another way around this, like a 90 degree
connector with a shorther knuckle? Can I bend the 90 connector in any
way? Failing that how much a plumber would charge for messing with the
soil stack?

Cheers!
Matt
Hi Matt,

In the McAlpine catalogue (downloadable at:

http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/McAlpine_&_Co_Ltd.html

Click on Catalogue then download the pdf)

there is a VERY tightly-bent one on page "36" (or 37 according to Acrobat
Reader). It appears to "double back" on itself slightly so would allow the
WC to go that little bit closer to the wall than normal. Might be worth a
look.

My local plumber's merchant has always been able to get hold of any more
obscure stuff from the McAlpine catalogue (eventually!).

Regards,

Simon.

"Woodspoiler" wrote in message ...
Go to http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/n115.asp and page down to
swan neck connectors

W.

Cheers, Woodspoiler! I think that'll do the trick.

Thanks for all your help you lot - I'll let you know how I get on.

Or this.
PArt #12712 £4.30 + v
http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/n115.asp

Toby.

Nearly Done! wrote:
The obvious answer is to move the pan forwards...but I realise that you
don't want to do this :-)
Not really since this would mean moving the cistern forward with it!!

I had to do this, the cistern is now on 30mm thick battens. When I
finish the rest of the room I'll put a piece over the top and paint it
to match the walls, and all will be well.

--
Chris
-----
Spamtrap in force: to email replace 127.0.0.1 with blueyonder.co.uk

"Chris Hodges" wrote in message
...
Nearly Done! wrote:
The obvious answer is to move the pan forwards...but I realise that you
don't want to do this :-)
Not really since this would mean moving the cistern forward with it!!

I had to do this, the cistern is now on 30mm thick battens. When I
finish the rest of the room I'll put a piece over the top and paint it
to match the walls, and all will be well.

Clearly not a proper D-I-Yer then ) . First you used the term "finish the
rest of the room". You should know that "finish" is an ideal, not an
achievable goal.

I did move my pan and cistern forward and use battens. I did tile over the
top of the gap at the back. I never got round to "finishing" the ends off
under the tiles. I also had to raise the new pan an inch (I used marine ply
cut to the shape of the pan foot).


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

(Nearly Done!) wrote in message . com...
"Woodspoiler" wrote in message ...
Go to http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/n115.asp and page down to
swan neck connectors

W.

Cheers, Woodspoiler! I think that'll do the trick.

Thanks for all your help you lot - I'll let you know how I get on.

They have these in B&Q don't they? I got mine from Wickes though....

(adder) wrote in message . com...
(Nearly Done!) wrote in message . com...
"Woodspoiler" wrote in message ...
Go to http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/n115.asp and page down to
swan neck connectors

W.

Cheers, Woodspoiler! I think that'll do the trick.

Thanks for all your help you lot - I'll let you know how I get on.

They have these in B&Q don't they? I got mine from Wickes though....

Come on, Adder. That would be far too convenient for the customer for
them to supply the part needed to fit one of their products. They do
have offsets in B&Q but you shouldn't have to buy two parts when one
could accomplish the job. Never checked Wickes though.

As an aside this loo was part of a cloakroom set. The taps that came
with the basin had 10mm pipework, with no reducer to connect to the
15mm - had to buy them extra - marvellous. They're either sly or
stupid - can't make my mind up which.

Anyway, I've tried the McAlpine one, it cost me £11.50 from a local
plumbers merchant. it didn't work as the bend/knuckle was further
forward than the entry for the pan spigot. Instead of being too far
back it was too far forward. Scratching my head as to why they've done
that. Taken it back this morning and just ordered one of the swan
necks from the BES website. Fingers crossed.

I really do pity any poor sod that took their old toilet out without
measuring up when fitting one of these.....