I'm about to print up drawings for my two & single storey extension to send out to builders for quotes. For the windows, anybody got any advice about what to say about the quality, and particularly the security aspects of uPVC windows and doors(I'm not thinking of B Regs such as ventilation/escape/safety glazing which I've already covered)? Is there a security standard, perhaps an insurance requirement?

Regards

IanC

"River Tramp" wrote in message ...
I'm about to print up drawings for my two & single storey extension to send out to builders for quotes. For the windows, anybody got any advice about what to say about the quality, and particularly the security aspects of uPVC windows and doors(I'm not thinking of B Regs such as ventilation/escape/safety glazing which I've already covered)? Is there a security standard, perhaps an insurance requirement?

Regards

IanC

A Few thoughts in no order -

1. Hard fixings to BWK rather than crazy foam.

2. Internal beading.

3. Multi point locking.

4. Consider tilt / turn for upstairs for easy cleaning.

5. Consider size of air gap in DG unit. More is good.

6. Consider gas filled units rather than air.

7. Look at different types of glass. I think Pilkington K is still the best around for energy effency. see here http://tinyurl.com/3435p

8. Individual locks rather than a mass produced system where your neighbour can end up with the same key as you.

9. Do you really want UVPC windows. If something breaks timber is far easier to repair.

10 If you do want UVPC look for a profile which will match others, or is easily available and not some end of the line crap.

11. Don't buy brown plastic windows they look like **** :-)


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 02/01/2004

On Sat, 10 Jan 2004 20:48:37 GMT, "Space Cowboy"
wrote:


"River Tramp" wrote in message ...
I'm about to print up drawings for my two & single storey extension to send out to builders for quotes. For the windows, anybody got any advice about what to say about the quality, and particularly the security aspects of uPVC windows and doors(I'm not thinking of B Regs such as ventilation/escape/safety glazing which I've already covered)? Is there a security standard, perhaps an insurance requirement?

Regards

IanC

A Few thoughts in no order -

1. Hard fixings to BWK rather than crazy foam.

2. Internal beading.

3. Multi point locking.

4. Consider tilt / turn for upstairs for easy cleaning.

5. Consider size of air gap in DG unit. More is good.

6. Consider gas filled units rather than air.

7. Look at different types of glass. I think Pilkington K is still the best around for energy effency. see here http://tinyurl.com/3435p

8. Individual locks rather than a mass produced system where your neighbour can end up with the same key as you.

9. Do you really want UVPC windows. If something breaks timber is far easier to repair.

10 If you do want UVPC look for a profile which will match others, or is easily available and not some end of the line crap.

11. Don't buy brown plastic windows they look like **** :-)


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 02/01/2004
Bearing in mind all the recent discussion in this newsgroup, I
would expect you to want trickle vents on most windows to provide
ventilation when required. (some trickle vents look more attractive
than others!).
For the upstairs windows, you will probably want stays which
enable you to lock the windows partially open, or at least prevent a
young child climbing through a main window opened to provide
ventilation on a warm evening. If you do not want this yourself, you
may find a prospective purchaser wants it in the future.
Give some thought as to whether you want the main opening
windows hinged at the top or at the side - this probably depends on
the type of the existing windows.
When you get the qiuotes in, have a look at samples of the
hardware, especially handles, used by your preferred supplier. Our
first, cheapest, replacement window uses a much inferior design which
I did not think about before placing the order.
If possible go and have a look at an installation locally by a
supplier before placing an order. When we shortlisted two suppliers
for a major reglazing job an inspection of one installation ruled that
supplier out of court for poor workmanship. Even the better suppliers
seem to leave a surfeit of extra holes where they drilled the frame
wrong or put a screw in the wrong place within the opening.

I will add the requirement on upstairs and other windows to be wide
enough to allow exit in fire situations. There is a regulation on this
somewhere.


Brian S Gray wrote:

On Sat, 10 Jan 2004 20:48:37 GMT, "Space Cowboy"
wrote:


"River Tramp" wrote in message ...
I'm about to print up drawings for my two & single storey extension to send out to builders for quotes. For the windows, anybody got any advice about what to say about the quality, and particularly the security aspects of uPVC windows and doors(I'm not thinking of B Regs such as ventilation/escape/safety glazing which I've already covered)? Is there a security standard, perhaps an insurance requirement?

Regards

IanC

A Few thoughts in no order -

1. Hard fixings to BWK rather than crazy foam.

2. Internal beading.

3. Multi point locking.

4. Consider tilt / turn for upstairs for easy cleaning.

5. Consider size of air gap in DG unit. More is good.

6. Consider gas filled units rather than air.

7. Look at different types of glass. I think Pilkington K is still the best around for energy effency. see here http://tinyurl.com/3435p

8. Individual locks rather than a mass produced system where your neighbour can end up with the same key as you.

9. Do you really want UVPC windows. If something breaks timber is far easier to repair.

10 If you do want UVPC look for a profile which will match others, or is easily available and not some end of the line crap.

11. Don't buy brown plastic windows they look like **** :-)


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 02/01/2004

Bearing in mind all the recent discussion in this newsgroup, I
would expect you to want trickle vents on most windows to provide
ventilation when required. (some trickle vents look more attractive
than others!).
For the upstairs windows, you will probably want stays which
enable you to lock the windows partially open, or at least prevent a
young child climbing through a main window opened to provide
ventilation on a warm evening. If you do not want this yourself, you
may find a prospective purchaser wants it in the future.
Give some thought as to whether you want the main opening
windows hinged at the top or at the side - this probably depends on
the type of the existing windows.
When you get the qiuotes in, have a look at samples of the
hardware, especially handles, used by your preferred supplier. Our
first, cheapest, replacement window uses a much inferior design which
I did not think about before placing the order.
If possible go and have a look at an installation locally by a
supplier before placing an order. When we shortlisted two suppliers
for a major reglazing job an inspection of one installation ruled that
supplier out of court for poor workmanship. Even the better suppliers
seem to leave a surfeit of extra holes where they drilled the frame
wrong or put a screw in the wrong place within the opening.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
I will add the requirement on upstairs and other windows to be wide
enough to allow exit in fire situations. There is a regulation on this
somewhere.

think its the building regs and the opening light must have an opening at
least xmm to allow escape. Not sure what x is though


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 02/01/2004

In article ,
Space Cowboy wrote:
1. Hard fixings to BWK rather than crazy foam.

Thought the foam was meant to be purely an infill - not the means of
totally supporting a frame.

--
*Never kick a cow pat on a hot day *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Space Cowboy wrote:

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

I will add the requirement on upstairs and other windows to be wide
enough to allow exit in fire situations. There is a regulation on this
somewhere.


think its the building regs and the opening light must have an opening at
least xmm to allow escape. Not sure what x is though


650mm or 950mm. One or the other. From here it looks like 650mm as my
windows are designed 'on the limit'

They must open wide, too. No stays that only allow a crack.



---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 02/01/2004

Only if it is required to be used for a means of escape. Not every window
does

dg


"Space Cowboy" wrote in message
...

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
I will add the requirement on upstairs and other windows to be wide
enough to allow exit in fire situations. There is a regulation on this
somewhere.

think its the building regs and the opening light must have an opening at
least xmm to allow escape. Not sure what x is though


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 02/01/2004

Dave Plowman wrote:

In article ,
Space Cowboy wrote:

1. Hard fixings to BWK rather than crazy foam.


Thought the foam was meant to be purely an infill - not the means of
totally supporting a frame.



Foaming glue - just a higher desnity foam - does both, and is in fact a
darned good way of hloding a frame in a cavity wall without cold
brodging it.

It fixes, it draughtproofs, it insulates and it water proofs, and it can
be sliced back, made good and easlt decoretaed after a wipe with
acrylic caulk.

I thnk its exceptionally good stuff for the job.

Hoever its expensive and therefore the temptation is to use insufficient
quantities.

When its worse than useless.

dg wrote:

Only if it is required to be used for a means of escape. Not every window
does



At least one per room I think. Even if smoke alarmed and with access to
two seperate stairwells.


dg


"Space Cowboy" wrote in message
...

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

I will add the requirement on upstairs and other windows to be wide
enough to allow exit in fire situations. There is a regulation on this
somewhere.


think its the building regs and the opening light must have an opening at
least xmm to allow escape. Not sure what x is though


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 02/01/2004

The requirement is for all habitable rooms to first floor to have one escape
window, mininmum size 0.45m x 0.45m, and a minimum of 0.33m2.
This usually means a window 450mm wide, and 750mm high, fully openable (ie
not sliding hinges unless with a release mechanism).

Thanks all for the suggestions, it was the non B Regs aspects I was
interested in (I'm a local authority BCO, so hope I can get the
ventialtion/escape glass/escape/containment issues right) particularly
security & actual quality of the windows.

thanks again

IanC



"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
dg wrote:

Only if it is required to be used for a means of escape. Not every
window
does



At least one per room I think. Even if smoke alarmed and with access to
two seperate stairwells.


dg


"Space Cowboy" wrote in
message
...

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

I will add the requirement on upstairs and other windows to be wide
enough to allow exit in fire situations. There is a regulation on this
somewhere.


think its the building regs and the opening light must have an opening
at
least xmm to allow escape. Not sure what x is though


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 02/01/2004

In article ,
"River Tramp" writes:
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

Please don't.


I'm about to print up drawings for my two & single storey extension to =
send out to builders for quotes. For the windows, anybody got any =
advice about what to say about the quality, and particularly the =
security aspects of uPVC windows and doors(I'm not thinking of B Regs =
such as ventilation/escape/safety glazing which I've already covered)? =
Is there a security standard, perhaps an insurance requirement?

Some of the options I recall when I specified mine...

Shoebolt locking (handle also operates locking bolts at window
corners). Only added £200 to the cost for a whole house.

Internal or external beading. There was a time when internal beading
was more secure, but with the window tapes now used, it makes no
difference to security. Internally beaded windows (particularly
opening panes) have much larger uPVC sections which can look unsightly.

Profile of the beading -- triangular or scotia (curved profile).

Black or white rubber sealing strips. Was strongly recommended to
go for black as they always form a black dirt line where they contact
the glass -- this looks horrible if they're white but doesn't show
if they're black.

I did mine when there was a choice of standard or Pilkington K (or
equivalent) glass, but you're too late for that choice now.

--
Andrew Gabriel